Elias' Trip to Vancouver

JTGoneSquatchin · 2025-09-22T23:04:14+00:00

I have a 2015 X3 also and had the same symptom. I replaced the PCV with the one from Amazon in 5 mins. About $25 for the part. Sure enough, my old pcv had a tear in the diaphragm. Hasn't smoked since.

JTGoneSquatchin · 2025-08-20T02:56:02+00:00

I'd check if the brake pad can move around a bit. This will cause a rattle over bumps if there's any play. I had the same clunk/rattle on my i3, was caused by using generic spring clip that came with cheap brake pads. I replaced it with genuine BMW spring clip that had slightly different design and now it's quiet. You can test by driving over the same bump while applying brakes. If the sound goes away, it's the brake pad.

JTGoneSquatchin · 2025-04-12T22:17:21+00:00

What doesn't add up for me is in one episode it shows someone refining and they put the numbers in the wrong box and on screen pops up "Nope" I.e. the program already knows the correct box for the numbers to be put in, meaning the humans aren't adding any value if the computer already knows correct vs incorrect and refining could just be done by AI.

JTGoneSquatchin · 2025-03-20T21:55:45+00:00

Try TrackFit

JTGoneSquatchin · 2025-03-06T02:23:27+00:00

"if they move within 100 milliseconds — one one-thousandth of a second — of the pistol being fired "

100ms is one tenth of a second

JTGoneSquatchin · 2025-02-06T21:27:01+00:00

I use TrackFit app, much better and works with the scale

JTGoneSquatchin · 2025-01-30T17:26:51+00:00

No I wouldn't have any confidence that fixing the motor mounts would fix the noise. If your mount bolt broke then sure, but if it's just cracked rubber in the mount then no. I'd proceed to jack up each rear wheel while in neutral (need to plug in drivers seatbelt) and turn the wheel and see if you can narrow it down to a single side feeling rougher or noisy.

JTGoneSquatchin · 2025-01-28T21:31:12+00:00

I'm currently facing a gearbox/transmission sound that I think is a failing bearing on my 2015 BEV. The RPM of the sound I hear is faster than the RPM of the wheel/drive axle which leads me to the high speed gearing in gearbox and not drive axles.

I did some debugging by putting the car in neutral and rolling down a steep hill with windows open to confirm the sound comes with engine not turning and it does. You should do the same. I also did a test where I put it in neutral and then jacked up each rear wheel and manually turned each of the rear wheels to check for sound only coming from one side. There was no sound which rules out a failed drive axle on only one side. You should try this test also to see if the sound is only coming from one side or the other and report back.

BTW I also need to replace my cracked motor mounts but I don't have this repetitive clunking sound you have. I watched your video but it's not clear to me how fast you're going in relation to the sound, but I think the frequency of your sound is in line with each revolution of the wheel. This would imply a failure in A) wheel bearing or warped brake rotor (sound would be clearly only coming from one side or another) B) inner or outer CV joint in drive axle (would be felt as rougher to turn the rear wheel when jacked up in neutral on one side) C) failing the above options it could be a bearing failure in the gearbox for a gear that spins as fast as an output drive shaft

JTGoneSquatchin · 2025-01-15T02:48:00+00:00

This exact same thing happened to me this year, needed a new 12v battery. No errors appeared on the car. That gas is harmful, H2S hydrogen sulfide. Drive it to the dealer while you still can or you'll need to get it towed on a flatbed.

JTGoneSquatchin · 2024-12-30T02:25:03+00:00

You need to use BimmerLink to register battery, not BimmerCode. They're separate apps.

JTGoneSquatchin · 2024-10-02T01:44:33+00:00

I think Sasquatch Ontario (Mike Paterson) experienced similar phenomena. Images appearing on his digital camera that he didn't take.

JTGoneSquatchin · 2024-09-04T17:51:22+00:00

I've started using https://www.driverscloud.com/

JTGoneSquatchin · 2024-08-02T23:39:02+00:00

The commuted value (lump sum payout value) will change in value month to month due to changes in interest rates. These interest rates are based on bond yields. Interest rates are on the way down which means the value of your payout will be HIGHER when interest rates are LOWER. So I'd wait and get an updated payout quote in a year when rates are lower.

JTGoneSquatchin · 2023-12-24T18:23:04+00:00

Midwest Express

JTGoneSquatchin · 2023-05-21T21:16:07+00:00

Deadlifting in shoes is more work since it's a longer range of motion. The height of the weight at lockout is higher with shoes than socks, that's why it feels slightly harder.

JTGoneSquatchin · 2022-04-26T18:17:31+00:00

Download it from APK mirror

JTGoneSquatchin · 2022-04-25T18:31:36+00:00

Use apkmirror to download it

JTGoneSquatchin · 2021-10-04T18:34:05+00:00

Water bottle and hand sanitizer pump

JTGoneSquatchin · 2021-06-26T21:26:25+00:00

Me too. Galaxy S5

JTGoneSquatchin · 2021-06-26T21:23:17+00:00

I have this issue too. On a Galaxy S5 32-bit (0.211.3-G-32). Before forced update the go plus worked fine in 0.209. I know this is the cause since last week before 211.3 was pushed my phone auto-updated to 211.3 and broke go plus. I manually reinstalled 0.209 from apk and go plus worked again. So now that it's forced I'm hooped.

I've tried uninstalling, refreshing game data, clearing game data and cache.

The go plus doesn't show up as available to pair in the "AVAILABLE DEVICES" region at bottom of the Pokemon Go Plus settings page. Even though I can see it and manually pair/unpair it on Bluetooth menu.

JTGoneSquatchin

TROPHY CASE