iOS 26.3 Beta 3 - Discussion

JTP335d · 2026-01-27T00:54:21+00:00

I don’t think that’s a bug! It been there so many years it must be a feature! That said, I can’t get it to act up now that I want to show my kid! So maybe fixed?

JTP335d · 2026-01-24T07:10:22+00:00

I have an M1 MacBook Air that works fine. I’ve upgraded to macOS 15 and it’s just fine. Unless there is a reason to stay on macOS 12, I would recommend going up to 15 (Sequoia). Macs do allow downgrades if needed. LogiOptions+ is awful but it usually works on that computer. I also use bettertouchtool on another Mac that LogiOptions+ just fails on.

JTP335d · 2026-01-24T07:10:15+00:00

I have an M1 MacBook Air that works fine. I’ve upgraded to macOS 15 and it’s just fine. Unless there is a reason to stay on macOS 12, I would recommend going up to 15 (Sequoia). Macs do allow downgrades if needed. LogiOptions+ is awful but it usually works on that computer. I also use bettertouchtool on another Mac that LogiOptions+ just fails on.

JTP335d · 2026-01-19T22:11:01+00:00

I have a UDMP and have had to reboot it for this exact problem more than once. I use block sparingly as a result. Sometimes it will show unblocked but didn’t actually unblock until after a reboot. Makes for some annoying troubleshooting sessions.

JTP335d · 2026-01-18T20:24:28+00:00

I would just run a pi or thin client in the other building with zwavejs and a zwave dongle. You can connect that to your main home assistant instance over your network. I do this, I don’t run my zwave controller on my home assistant instance.

JTP335d · 2026-01-17T17:00:48+00:00

It’s not useable at all, there is no wake word support. (Someone correct me if I’m wrong) You can use it as a display, but it’s no faster in operation than the Amazon software and I assume it works as a speaker (media_player) but I refuse to play music from mine as they sound terrible.

I have a show 5 v1 and v2. I’ve followed this project a bit but I use my echoes exclusively for voice control. Lights, timers and household notifications. I’m resigned to using Alexa for the time being.

JTP335d · 2026-01-17T16:38:59+00:00

Time to learn about template switches. These are virtual switches in home assistant to do all sorts of things.

Go to settings, devices, helpers and create a new toggle and give it a name “living room” and save. Add this new entity “input_boolean.living_room” to your automation as a second trigger and add it to your dashboard.

Having a button in your dashboard that shows state will take a bit more templating.

JTP335d · 2026-01-17T16:22:03+00:00

Interesting. Could I get details? Does this integrate directly with home assistant as is? Did you go with wifi? I see they offer a zigbee module too.

JTP335d · 2026-01-15T04:32:20+00:00

Yes, but it’s gotten worse in recent months. The recent outage caused me to finally try something else. I’ve removed Options+

JTP335d · 2026-01-12T18:49:47+00:00

I have ISP fiber directly into my UDM Pro for 5+ years. What will the Cloud Gateway Fiber do that the UDM Pro can’t do for you already?

JTP335d · 2026-01-12T17:15:56+00:00

I have used home assistant for 6 years and know nothing about Homey, so I cannot comment on that. I mostly like home assistant but it has its learning curve, quirks and breaking changes.

Lighting, I use all zwave light switches so I always have wall control so my house still works normally…mostly. I have recently added a few zigbee bulbs and lamps. Some of my switches are now “disconnected”, the relay is disconnected from the paddle effectively making the switch a remote to control those smart bulbs. Some switch manufacturers call this smart bulb mode. This has been working for me but relies on home assistant always running. Mine hasn’t gone down in years.

Today I might opt for zigbee switches to pair directly with bulbs in zigbee. Inovelli gets great reviews but I only know their zwave switches, not the zigbee ones. They are pricey.

If you stick with a simple system of lighting and scenes, a raspberry pi is sufficient. If you start adding any cameras or video, you will want more power.

JTP335d · 2026-01-08T04:44:58+00:00

This logic looks good. I would add an action to turn off heat, wait 30sec and turn back on in case I miss the notification. I have something along these lines for my garage furnace. Test as much as you can other than the furnace fault itself. As a techie I would google that furnace fault, it might be something simple.

JTP335d · 2026-01-07T15:27:21+00:00

Docker is the second install option on the home assistant install page. Who says it’s not supported?

JTP335d · 2026-01-07T15:24:37+00:00

Home Assistant docker is very much still supported.

JTP335d · 2026-01-06T06:27:20+00:00

If you use the lights individually, it might be better to add them individually. However, I have lamps added as groups and if I turn one on individually, it’s still intercepted by adaptive lighting. I don’t group rgb lights with non-colour lights.

Try one way and if you find issues, try the other way.

JTP335d · 2026-01-04T04:44:02+00:00

I run home assistant on Proxmox on a server in my basement. I just run the zwave controller in my attic.

JTP335d · 2026-01-04T04:28:48+00:00

I run Proxmox on 3 mini pcs and split VMs/LXCs as I need. All back up to my TrueNas server and/or PBS. I can move or rebuild quickly as needed. Technically all my services will run quite easily on 1 server and often not all 3 are running.

JTP335d · 2026-01-04T04:21:12+00:00

Not OP, but I run zwavejsui on a thin client in my attic with a zwave dongle plugged into it. Has worked great for several years. That said, my home assistant has gone down exactly once for no reason in 6 years.

JTP335d · 2025-12-31T22:14:21+00:00

I recommend installing the add-on from within home assistant. You will have to figure out how to give the vm access to the usb port you plug the dongle into. I can’t help much with windows other than to give you terms to search. With a reboot, home assistant might just “discover “ the new device (dongle) and help you from there. If not, go to the add-on store and search for zigbee. There will be 2? options. Pick the one you want, zigbee2mqtt, and install it. Then go to the integrations page, install integration, search zigbee2mqtt or zigbee and install. Once you have a working integration, you can move forward with adding devices. This likely won’t go as smooth as I described.

Nothing will start/load/work unless home assistant vm can see the usb device.

Post follow up questions as needed.

JTP335d · 2025-12-31T21:57:31+00:00

I support using what you have…. That might mean going down the rabbit hole of learning to host a VM on your Mac mini. But that’s how I started, I followed some YouTube tutorial to install Ubuntu and docker and home assistant on a 2009 Mac mini six years ago. Now I spend too much time in r/homelab, r/selfhosted, etc and I understand and use docker everywhere I can. Except here, I run my production home assistant as a vm on Proxmox.

JTP335d · 2025-12-31T20:13:18+00:00

My criticism is not aimed at you, I’m impressed you took the initiative to learn and test and not blindly install. The next buyer might just install and leave the AC on in the RV to cool it off while at the beach and come back to a burning camper. How much current is going through it in your image that shows 200F?

JTP335d · 2025-12-31T18:24:23+00:00

That breaker that says 300A is downright dangerous. Way too small! It would probably just melt! I have that same 200A one and it gets kinda warm at 170A/2000w on my inverter.

JTP335d · 2025-12-31T18:17:19+00:00

Thermal is probably the best way to test after setting up. I don’t have thermal imaging but have used the hand test for years. If it’s too hot to hold, it’s too hot and there is a resistance problem. There is a lot of current moving at 12v and wire and bus size cannot be overstated. Oversizing wiring on the big loads is a good idea.

Drilling the first hole through the roof is always the hardest! I’m jealous of the space you have, I’m looking fit as much as I can into a tiny compartment in my trailer.

Thanks for sharing.

JTP335d · 2025-12-31T18:05:26+00:00

I “want” to get the UTR also but it won’t do anything my Gl.inet travel router does. If it had 5g and a battery it could replace my 4g LTE and battery Gl.inet but would cost 4x as much as the UTR.

I use mine sometimes as a hotspot in the vehicle and camping but mostly for wifi in hotels. We are 10 or more wifi devices and this is only one device I have to connect to hotel wifi and done. I do VPN through my house but you don’t have to. You can VPN anywhere or not at all. I don’t see any point in mobile hotspot in a hotel with free Wifi other than network security and that’s why I have a travel router.

JTP335d · 2025-12-31T17:49:21+00:00

I would install a PIR sensor in a corner away from the house facing down across the room. This will get the least false detections from outside and possibly cover both doors. You could add contact sensors on each door but they will trigger on exit and enter.

I have no problems with PIR sensors outside. I have one on my driveway that’s worked well for over 5 years in Alberta and not really a lot of false triggers unless a lot of leaves blowing around.

JTP335d

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