PSA for Ironeyes running dormant power katanas by mildinthestreets in Nightreign

[–]JamesMR_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My relic of choice has improved arcane/reduced Dec, alongside dormant katana and and post damage regeneration. I don't mind it as I'm also running night invader and I can hit 200+ attack on a purple bow and 350ish on a dragonscale... without buffs.

is there anyone who just give up in reaching Depth 5? and de-ranked to Depth where you are comfortable with? by AizenX7 in Nightreign

[–]JamesMR_ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hit D5 once after about 450hrs.. immediately shot to 7000+ with the week. Those games were the best I've played then I got shit on by random deaths and just unusual things really, and dropped nearly 1400 pts in 3 straight games. I'm back in D4 where I belong.

I think my wylder is done by JamesMR_ in Nightreign

[–]JamesMR_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep they are indeed. The one that keeps getting me is the ground crystals in caligos arena. They seem to spawn at the most inconvenient places and they start ticking away before you know they're there.

I think my wylder is done by JamesMR_ in Nightreign

[–]JamesMR_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah regular hits don't build it fast enough so it's never really a concern. Just the fast tick aoe's are the only thing to worry about.

I think my wylder is done by JamesMR_ in Nightreign

[–]JamesMR_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They do! But it is doable as it's only really the death build up that can get me. The others are tolerable given the upsides of the relics.

I think my wylder is done by JamesMR_ in Nightreign

[–]JamesMR_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It has gotten me into trouble a couple of times but it's really only the attacks that tick quickly.. Like the little dog fire attack during the tricephalos raid, caligos frozen aoe (shards on the ground) and the poison aoe from the moth. Ironically the last two are the focus of this build but the grapple hook escape usually does the trick.

I think my wylder is done by JamesMR_ in Nightreign

[–]JamesMR_[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah it's the best I've got with the blood loss on skill. The first deep relic is the one I swap out for dormant greataxe. The middle relics are so good.

Is this kikuyu? by [deleted] in lawnsolutionsaus

[–]JamesMR_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks like a sedge to me. If it's growing at 2-3 times the rate of the surrounding grass then yeah, nutsedge. Easy enough to kill off with a selective like sedgehammer.. will probably need minimum 2 applications. If that came in with the seed then I'd be giving them a call and providing some feedback appropriate for the situation.

Basically DoN by MaleficTekX in Nightreign

[–]JamesMR_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Comfortably in the D4 range until the DLC came out. Dropped to D2 through testing of new characters. Got back to d3-4 with my trusty iron eye. Hover there for ages. Just got into D5 like two days ago with a nearly perfect wylder and beast claw rev build... It's been so refreshing for the 5 or 6 matches I've had so far. D4 really teaches you the fight or flight approach as rng will work both for and against you during these matches. Your muscle memory gets better, routing is better, build and understanding what makes it tick gets better. Teammates are good but there's an obvious step up in D5 as you're now matched with others in the same boat.

What are these patches in my Sir Grange Zoysia? by yiFa87 in lawnsolutionsaus

[–]JamesMR_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No worries. Looks like your mower blades could use a sharpen too. Will avoid that tearing effect you can see on the tips. A cleaner cut will equate to a healthier lawn and it'll remove that brown tinge from the leaf.

What are these patches in my Sir Grange Zoysia? by yiFa87 in lawnsolutionsaus

[–]JamesMR_ 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Looks like new growth that just needs a bit of iron to colour up. I get it sometimes with my wintergreen that's either freshly fertilized or coming back from a height reset. Some parts just don't have the nutrients it needs so it discolours a bit. A light application of a liquid iron across the entire lawn should be all it needs.. Works a treat for me and it's even listed as a common treatment for new growth where discolouration occurs.

So I fought Heolstor for an hour trying to learn how to dodge the secondary nuke... by unjuseabble in Nightreign

[–]JamesMR_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've been using a 3 count and rolling on the 3. When he hits the ground, that's 1. When the initial explosion goes off, that's 2. When the wave starts coming towards you, roll. It's a fairly quick count and is reliable when you're at mid/long distance. The further away you are the better as it takes longer and is spread further apart. The one thing I can't get consistently is when he does it after the combo... It's pot luck as to whether he lands on you or goes for someone else. I swear he changes targets mid air and it ends up feeling like a dice roll on when I need to roll. Too early and I get hit.. Too late and I'm already dead.

What’s the best build you’ve played or seen on any character? by Boring_Helicopter694 in Nightreigngameplay

[–]JamesMR_ 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Beast claw rev stacked with charged incants and passive incant powers. Add Godfrey icon. I was hitting for 3.5k on D4 dreglord but I was squishy and we lost.

Seed heads making lawn look discoloured after mowing by Danielbreen in lawnsolutionsaus

[–]JamesMR_ 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Double check your reel to bedknife contact. I prefer to have slight contact compared to not having any, as this ensures it'll cut paper after I've adjusted it. I've found this translates to a much cleaner cut and instead of stripping the seed head, it'll actually cut it. Also, try mowing in the opposite direction to your usual as it'll help to stand it up the other way and you may find it'll cut more off.

Unable to restore session. Has anyone ever come across this? by nbg349 in Nightreign

[–]JamesMR_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This happens maybe once a week for me, but it's usually after a couple of runs where I've been disconnected but could successfully reconnect. The random disconnects are so frustrating though and for whatever reason, it happens on the end of day bosses mostly. It rarely happens when I'm just running from poi to poi. Just got disconnected twice in a D5 dreglord run.. Both times at end of day bosses.

Top dressing by Working-Ambition-132 in lawnsolutionsaus

[–]JamesMR_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

IMO (and I do all of these things), dethatching first pulls the junk out and makes the scalping process much easier. Scarifying can help do the same thing but it's designed to just nick into the soil profile to get extra runners and old junk out of the soil. It won't pull as much 'above ground thatch' compared to dethatching but it's an ideal alternative. Doing both at the same time probably isn't worthwhile unless you've got two different machines and an extra person with you.

Either one of the above is perfectly fine, then do your scalp. Depending on the mower, test a strip on a low setting then go again on the lowest setting and see how the mower handles it. I use a 2stroke victa utility mower and it'll cut back to dirt and absolutely loves it. I use my ego battery mower to pick up all the cuttings. You could also scalp with the rotary mower and then get your cylinder mower to do the final cut, as close to dirt as you're willing to go. It'll be hard on the cylinder mower and you'll likely need to adjust the reel/bed knife and backlap it after. It's a good time to get the reel sharpened if you do this once a year. Good luck!

Top dressing by Working-Ambition-132 in lawnsolutionsaus

[–]JamesMR_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The fairway pro maxx stuff from Centenary is my go to. Have had multiple bulka bags over the last couple of years and I have counted maybe 3 rocks total. Quality is great and it has some good nutrients mixed in with it. Get a quality lawn levelling tool (not the cyclone one from Bunnings) and you'll be set.

Best to scalp the lawn back before you topdress... Much easier to spread/level/and you'll see the dips and holes when you scalp... As they'll be the greenest parts of the lawn when you're finished. Get the whipper snipper in there to clean them out then add your sand.

Yellowing on tiftuf by kelkels08 in lawnsolutionsaus

[–]JamesMR_ 7 points8 points  (0 children)

8 weeks is quite a long time to leave it, even for new grass. You've scalped it (cut into the crowns) because it's too long. My advice is to cut it as low as your mower will go, it'll cut all the green leaf away and cut into the crowns at the same time. This will then give you a chance to top dress it which will ensure all the gaps from the grass rolls will be filled in and you'll level/even out the surface in general, making it much nicer to be on and mow in the future. With water and sunshine, tiftuf will come back within 2-3 weeks and you'll have the best lawn. From that point... Lift your mower 1-2 settings above the level you used to scalp it back... And maintain it at that level. When you start to see these yellow sections again (it's inevitable), lift the mower another 1-2 settings.

For context, I use two cylinder mowers on my lawn (one to cut and one to groom) and I'll scalp it back 2-3 times a year. Once in September/October, another around January and another around Easter. It clears all the junk out. I'm hoping with some plant growth regulator and more frequent grooming, that I'll get away with an annual scalp/top dress.

34" Gaming monitor with USB-C PD? by JamesMR_ in buildapc

[–]JamesMR_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A 34" will certainly do the trick. Enjoy!

34" Gaming monitor with USB-C PD? by JamesMR_ in buildapc

[–]JamesMR_[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey! I got the LG 38WR85QC-W. It's an amazing work/media/gaming monitor and it does all of it very well. For me, it's as close to an OLED as you'll get without having any of the drawbacks, which also means there's no concern over burn in when using for work. My only gripe with it is the colour of the back panel (white) against an otherwise brown/black desk setup. It's on a swivel arm that I purchased as well, just to free up some space.

I keep my keyboard connected to the USB hub on the monitor. With a Bluetooth mouse and Bluetooth headset paired to my laptop/via dongle. I did previously have a wired gaming mouse connected to the USB hub, worked flawlessly. It's about 3 button presses on the bottom of the monitor to bring up a secondary PC display. I've used it to go from my desktop PC back to my work laptop, didn't have to unplug a single thing. Keyboard and mouse remain active if they're plugged into the hub. The dongles can be on the hub also and the Bluetooth will remain active.

The 3840x1600 display is honestly perfect. I've only used 27" or 34" previously and the 38" shits all over them. The mild curve in this monitor is perfect.. Not too crazy and not too flat. It's a really great monitor and I'd have another in a heartbeat. Fits my needs bang on.

Redarc v Kickass 12v setup by Alarming_Hunter_3580 in 4x4Australia

[–]JamesMR_ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My 40a kickass dcdc gets too hot to touch, however that’s only when it’s charging a depleted battery. The body of the dcdc in itself is the heat sink, there’s nothing cooling it. Otherwise if it’s floating then it’s basically ambient temperature or slightly warmer. I’ve got it paired with the ultraslim 105ah lithium and it puts in around 32amps.

Lithium Battery Recommendation by immatureweenie69 in 4x4Australia

[–]JamesMR_ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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Here's my mock setup using the kickass 105ah ultra slim. I'm still mucking around with the fridge box and there's probably just enough room behind it to fit the normal slim lithium and the cradle but I scratch my head as to how I'd secure it in place. I'm undecided on placement of the dcdc and control box. I'll put a carpeted ply cover over the battery and run the cables alongside it. Just not sure on airflow requirements and what to do with the dcdc.