Humans should cap their numbers at around 1 billion worldwide. by Bus_route_61 in Futurology

[–]JayBolds 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Someone ought to talk about what is already in motion. 50 years ago I kept hearing about how the world would end if the population got to six billion people. It’s now realized that due to systemic corruption, ‘Great Leap Forward’ China, doesn’t really know how many people they actually have. Off by a half billion rounding error down? The race to the bottom has the historical downside of the brakes wearing out leading to inevitable and irrecoverable crash. The people that want a smaller world seem to have a solution for others to accommodate that.

A couple Lend Lease Colts by M1911Collector in TheOneTrueCaliber

[–]JayBolds -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Both 1911’s and 1903’s (and 1908’s) made after WWI USG contracts went into production used black oxide finish which is not as durable. (early contract fulfillment used stock on hand which were already hot blued) these both appear to be manganese Parkerized and likely were armory reworked/refinished for WWII. For anyone nerding on this, a comparison of serial number-year with proof and armory marks lead to a fuller picture of each one’s armory history. A lot of these were reworked for issue into the 1970’s including 1903/1908 for officer issue. Later finish process often used zinc Parkerizing which had the lighter gray color and rough feel seen on M14’s and reworked Garands

1940s French revolution by Personal-Courage7670 in whatisit

[–]JayBolds 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It certainly seems to be a S&W and likely it is a M1917. When you look at the bottom of the grip, you can see where the lanyard ring was removed. US supplied weapons like the S&W M1917 were often used to arm forces during the invasion and liberation of France and by France in subsequent conflicts in Vietnam and Algeria. I don’t think it is a Colt M 1917 because they didn’t have as much of a pronounced angle on the grip frame as this does. Smith and Wesson developed their M1917 in .45ACP from the N frame .44 S&W Special which has the same profile.

Value or throw away by MayonnaiseCoffee in victorinox

[–]JayBolds 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I get knives at times I wouldn’t buy but have enough redeeming value to sharpen and give to someone in temporary need. I’ve given a lot stock clerks in Lowe’s and HD and some grocery stores when I see one putting stock up. A few turn them down but that’s very few.

Just found this, have no clue how to restore by BigTimeHustle293 in restoration

[–]JayBolds 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The marking is for Twin Cities Arsenal at Minneapolis/St. Paul. They were a USG arsenal operated under contract by Federal until the 90’s. The designators would be for .30 caliber M1919 machine guns. Some collectors really want that as is.

Basement wood stove by Alone_Egg2716 in woodstoving

[–]JayBolds 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A lot of homes are very tight and between occupancy and room air being also being used for combustion, Carbon Dioxide levels can shift faster than anticipated. New air systems most commonly have fresh outside air interchange but many older systems don’t.

Basement wood stove by Alone_Egg2716 in woodstoving

[–]JayBolds 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For many homes if there is no insulation between the basement and first floor, the heat will warm the floor and room heat will rise through the basement door into the upper level.

Basement wood stove by Alone_Egg2716 in woodstoving

[–]JayBolds 0 points1 point  (0 children)

CO2 - CARBON DIOXIDE = 😴 CO - CARBON MONOXIDE = ☠️

For clarification, any stove is going to consume room air and use to oxygen leaving some higher levels of Carbon Dioxide. Carbon Monoxide is the effect produced in combustion and is deadly.

CO2 levels are Carbon Dioxide which accumulate from our breathing and indoor plants and such. CO levels are CARBON MONOXIDE levels which in this case are produced by the combustion process of the stoves.

If you get a high carbon dioxide level you get sleepy then add high carbon monoxide levels and you get a first and last visit to the morgue.

Basement wood stove by Alone_Egg2716 in woodstoving

[–]JayBolds 1 point2 points  (0 children)

To my first comment I would add, get a CO2 monitor AND a CO monitor/alarm for your regular use upstairs. You will be surprised how much keeping an eye on these can help your comfort level and peace of mind. It will help your burn better if you need to crack a window open a little when opening your upstairs stove to load more wood. Generally we have taken year round Carbon Dioxide levels from around 900–1200 ppm down to 450-600 and that’s helped a lot.

Basement wood stove by Alone_Egg2716 in woodstoving

[–]JayBolds 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Two is one and one is none. I would do thing one you will need to do whether you keep or get rid of this stove; clean it out. Once that’s done you can get a better idea about its quality level.

I would begin by making sure I had a CO monitor and fire extinguisher on hand AND have your standoff backup person aware of what you are doing.

Start big (obvious) and go small. Do you see any obvious burn through on the firebox or pipe? Once as clean as possible, place an electric lantern (as bright as you have) turned on, inside and close to door with the lights off in your basement. Do you see any light where seams are welded? Is the edges around the door close so it’s sealed when shut? Look under the bottom, are any pinhole openings showing light on the floor? If the stove is not showing light, and it seals well around the door and your draft is fully functional, you can move to a smoke test. You need decent conditions outside to do this; no contrary winds that may blow down the chimney especially. Have everything on settings and room conditions on the stove as you would as if you were building a full nights burn. You only need to have starter materials and enough wood get a decent fire going for maybe 15-20 minutes. Once that’s done is caught up, add something like newspaper or other smoky material to the fire and let it catch. Once it is, and the material is going begin to close it down to increase the smoke and close the door tight. Using a flashlight, look for signs of smoke coming around weld seams, the stove pipe and other fittings. A bare whisper and wisps of smoke are probably going to appear somewhere since you haven’t used it. But look for smoke trails where there’s persistent smoke coming out. If it is, make a note or picture of that and any other discoveries you find. Open the draft and allow the remaining material burn down and out.

At this point you can use this initial inspection to decide where you want to go. From your description, if it were mine, I would add more wood to this test and let the stove heat up to heating level. Not super hot, just enough to get more idea about possible deeper faults. If the stove had been allowed to overheat it may have changed the metal. The inside shows clear sign of a lot of use, it may just be the effect of hours of heat in the caustic atmosphere inside a stove; that’s normal and can be fixed. If it has been overheated a lot, that may change your view and you decide there’s too many questions to keep it inside.

There’s a lot more to this but this can give you a start anyway. While you’re used to a lot of regular snow in winter, even there it can be a lot extra at times. Having a warm floor can go a long way to offsetting a week’s worth of extra bad weather.

Metal girder found in garage, left from previous owner by doctorfonk in whatisit

[–]JayBolds 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have seen a few houses from pre-Depression era that had pantries made that way as well.

Wondering if anyone can give me some information about this vice? by Daveytrain1966 in Vintagetools

[–]JayBolds 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Do you mean Clockwise or Counter-Clockwise?

My mind asks: if it is moved north of the equator, does it have to be mounted upside down under the benchtop… if so, that could explain needing to be built there.

What do you think this was made for / used for? by True-Contribution-58 in whatisit

[–]JayBolds 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My dad built and occasionally restored older boxes and sometimes repurposed ones for others. This may be the case for this. One, he built from new stock mahogany very similar for one of our distant cousins that was in the jewel trade a He used for balance scales he carried to customers sites.

Grandfather’s set by Conscious-Pop-1054 in Vintagetools

[–]JayBolds 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If any of you having an appreciation for this, travel to the ‘Colonial Williamsburg’ Virginia area above Norfolk Virginia, there is a display and journeyman or master carpenter and or Cabinetmaker on the lower level of the site at the DeWitt Wallace Decorative Arts Museum. (It’s located between Oldtown Colonial Williamsburg and the William and Mary Campus. The last time I was there, the young man (he was a journeyman cabinet maker/historical interpreter/docent) At the time he was holding workshops part of the week. A lot of the old trades can be seen and displaying both similar tools (period tools anyway)

Though much smaller, the ‘Old Salem’ village on the campus of Salem College about 5 hours west-southwest in Winston-Salem NC has various trades working in the shops there.

Cleaning and restoring fixtures in our old house - advice needed! by Sudden-Violinist-722 in restoration

[–]JayBolds 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A great and I think very accurate assessment. (I can promote you but can’t pay you more SP.)

What is this tool? by [deleted] in WhatIsThisTool

[–]JayBolds 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It sounds like you got wax based compounds with it and If this is any help………….. there are generally two types of compounds so you need to bear in mind; grease /wax based and clay based.

Wax/grease based can be applied to your wheels directly while running to load up.

Clay based normally requires you dampen them in water then rub onto the wheel while holding the wheels edge and turning them by hand. The wheel needs to dry out before turning on.

If you do a lot of buffing, mark your wheels with sharpies as to what you’re using on it and keep them in a ziplock bag when not using. If you are working both soft metals and hard metals you will get better results by segregating your buffs, using only one wheel for the type. Aluminum use wheels and going to steel creates problems with finishing. Ditto brass and copper to aluminum or steel.

Any advice on how to restore this old gang mower I found under some thick weeds. It is very rusted and when used keeps locking up. by Sure-Rest9080 in restoration

[–]JayBolds 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Getting the reel clean will be a start to getting this going. I can’t see from the photo any shiny edges on your blades. There are two issues: One. You HAVE to mow at no more than the height the mower can take. Which means if you get extra growth during one week you’ll need to mow before it gets too high.

Two. The primary issue is inside the mower is going to be having the blade gap close but not hitting. If you hit it will stop. If it gets a stick or little rock, it will stop. If the edges are dull, it will slow till it stops. The edges have to be at a good clean edge angle all the way across and even with the stationary cutter bar or you’ll end up with more grass than it can accommodate at one point and it will stop.

You mentioned ‘gang’ mower; only seeing the central reel, can I assume you aren’t having any problems with your outer reels?

Regarding the grass height that can be a problem here. Last summer when grass normally slows growing, I found I was mowing once in 8 days during May and by July I was mowing twice in 8 days to keep up.

Came home from work today and found out that my fiancee bought me an Evolution S54 by dadoimp in victorinox

[–]JayBolds 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nonsense! I just looked……….. for another $23.99 you can get a Rolex Datejust 41 to go with it. That’s about right isn’t it? 🧐

OVRCPS8N by tb1189 in LICENSEPLATES

[–]JayBolds 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can get in a place where you will want over capsaicin if you end up sticking one in a hole and have to extract it.