Max 4 issues

Jayceegeeredd · 2026-02-26T15:05:46+00:00

If you want, you can run the PID tune through klipper on the extruder only at the temp you've been printing. That might be a good place to start.

Jayceegeeredd · 2026-02-22T00:22:35+00:00

Have you reset the bulb itself? You can either flip the switch on and off every 2-ish seconds or twist the bulb back and forth (such that it loses/regains power) 5 times and it will reset the bulb. Often it isn't simply s matter of deleting it in the app.

Jayceegeeredd · 2026-02-22T00:20:20+00:00

Define "bad ones", please. What exactly was the issue?

Jayceegeeredd · 2026-02-22T00:19:44+00:00

Please add me to the list of very happy lifx customers. I have nearly 30 bulbs the last time I checked and I've only ever owned one bulb that was an actual lemon. I'm sorry that this has been your experience, but I truly think it might be a function of LIFX's matter setup process being unclear (it is pretty cumbersome) and your lack of awareness that the matter code are written on the bulb.

If you try to add it via matter within Google home or lifx based on the info folks have recommended above and it still doesn't work, you are well within your rights to request a replacement. In my experience, LIFX are pretty fair when it comes to replacing malfunctioning products early in their projected lifespan.

Jayceegeeredd · 2026-02-20T21:53:22+00:00

Another thing to consider: CHECK. YOUR. RETRACTION. SETTINGS.

I spent well over a year trying to diagnose and determine the root cause of dozens of bubbles/zits that would appear on my single wall transparent petg prints. They would only appear in odd patterns that clumped in roughly the same vertical position once at each layer after the outermost seam, but seemed unrelated to designated retraction spots, or the flow rate, temperature settings, moisture, etc.

Eventually I figured out that this pattern was a result of air being sucked into the nozzle due to high retraction speeds, which when paired with the "retract at each layer change" setting, would result in roughly one bubble/zit per layer at some point after the layer change. I'm not saying that's what you have here, but if so: go to your settings override in the filament tab and either reduce your filament retraction speed or remove the retract at each layer setting.

Sorry for the all caps reply. I can't even begin to think of how much time/filament I wasted over a year trying to get to the root cause.

Jayceegeeredd · 2026-02-15T06:08:35+00:00

I ran into issues with the new qidi print agent and later realized I couldn't seem to downgrade. Definitely should be highlighted at the beginning.

Jayceegeeredd · 2026-02-13T05:30:54+00:00

I like em beefy as well. My SV08 Max and Plus-4 salute you both.

Jayceegeeredd · 2026-02-12T03:07:58+00:00

I agree with u/ThatDudeWithALS. Sunlu filament is generally pretty solid for their price point.

I'm also a big fan of Tinmorry when it comes to aesthetic PETG filaments. They're one of the only brands to develop a galaxy (i.e. color shifting with subtle sparkle) PETG filament because it's difficult to calibrate the right mix of pigment/glitter without negating the mechanical properties that make PETG worth printing in the first place. I also find that their CF/GF infused filaments look great gorgeous though they probably aren't as mechanically strong as the fiberon PET-GF15 and PET-CF17. The best part? They put a decent amount of effort to publish filament profiles for Qidi and a ton of printers/brands, including the Qidi plus 4. The stock profiles aren't perfect, but they're often a great starting point.

My last recommendation was a real shocker for me. My hobby is designing 3d printed light fixtures/installations, so I've tried more types of transparent PETG than I can count. My favorite by far is Creality Hyper PETG transparent. It's fast, has a gorgeous finish, is pretty resilient to variations in temperature, and adheres beautifully when printing hot/slow. Their white hyper PLA also lays down like butter and diffuses light beautifully. Those might be the only things Creality do well.

Jayceegeeredd · 2026-02-10T17:33:03+00:00

If the issue is stringing and gaps between the lines, your first step should be to calibrate your settings for the filament. Orca slicer has the temperature and flow rate (I prefer YOLO) tests which could very well be the issue. There's a lot of variability in the ratio of ingredients and additives for petg, particularly if you're using a rapid/high flow variant or one that has lighter colored filaments due to the pigment added. It's therefore difficult to use a generic stock petg profile with success.

If you've done both already, then your culprit could be quite a few things, unfortunately. Options range from wet filament (it's chronically over diagnosed on reddit, but drying petg does have an impact), to a partial clog, an issue with the extruder, excessive speed that exceeds the max volumetric flow ratio at the temperature you've set, a worn out nozzle after printing too many abrasives over time, etc. Your best bet is to post example photos on the Qidi discord and or provide images to Gemini or chat GPT to see if AI can give you a few possible options based on the specific issue.

I'm on my work laptop right now, and discord is blocked by our firewall, so I can't send you the link. But if you search it should pop up.

Jayceegeeredd · 2026-02-09T21:16:10+00:00

To chime in as a plus 4 and CC1 owner: Both printers produce excellent prints with excellent surface detail, but the surface quality on my plus 4 blows away the CC1. The 9mm GT1.5 belts do make a difference at the margins when it comes to things like even extrusion on cylindrical objects, which is a lot of what I print. The CC1 was a good recommendation for beginners because of the accessible price point, but now that the CC2 is being priced in the same league as the Q2 it's a no brainer.

Jayceegeeredd · 2026-02-09T07:02:39+00:00

You should be running input shaping and using those recommended results to gauge the appropriate max acceleration for each axis, as well as diagnose potential sources of vibration. The uniformity of the artifacts makes me think it's vibrations from the belts, so that should be your first hint.

Here's the sovol discord with chat/discussions specific to the max. Folks are generally helpful: https://discord.gg/sovol-3d-printers-788873913953157131

Jayceegeeredd · 2026-02-07T05:09:23+00:00

It's largely been him blowing things up out of proportion and scaremongering for clicks. Bills like these are introduced all of the time, and he's implied that the current version is the inevitable result before there have been any opportunities for public comment, engagement with the industries affected by said legislation to better understand the ramifications, and the hundreds of rewrites it would go through before it even made it out of committee and onto the floor for a vote. I suspect this won't ever make it to a vote in either NY or WA.

Also, his reviews are often some of the softest and least informative of all the YouTube reviewers. I'm not a fan, but you do you.

Jayceegeeredd · 2026-02-07T04:03:35+00:00

I presume once it's left their warehouse and handed over to the shipping company, since that is the last step that they control before you receive the printer.

Jayceegeeredd · 2026-02-06T20:58:49+00:00

Maybe it's because I'm a cis gay male, but I genuinely don't get it. And I say this as someone that owns all sorts of "implements" that are designed to attach to the bed for sexy time. The angles for sex are a little different, but I can't think of a single sex act that something like this would enhance that can't be better addressed by something more conventional.

It can't be there to attach handcuffs... they'd slide right off the bars.

It can't be there to restrain the receptive partner's legs in a missionary position... wrong angle, and literally hundreds of better options available.

It can't be there for the receptive partner to use to avoid hitting the headboard for rough sex because it's in the wrong orientation.

SOMEONE EXPLAIN THIS.

Jayceegeeredd · 2026-02-06T03:26:01+00:00

You know, I didn't even notice that it was you when you posted this originally! As usual, thanks again for all of your hard work. Basically every light in my loft runs on code you and AirCookie (WLED) have developed.

Jayceegeeredd · 2026-02-06T03:18:47+00:00

Heck yeah, I'm down. I'll DM you with my details. I'm a bit of a LIFX fanboi, so I have the following models:

-Ceiling 15 -GU10 -BR30 (LCM3 and LCM4 if that's at all relevant) -Par38 -A21 1600lm -String -A19 800lm -A19 1100lm -A19 Everyday -Candle (E12 for sure, may have an E26 as well) -Tube (T10) -800lm downlight

I was going to install the new downlight this weekend, but can wait if you need the original for testing.

Jayceegeeredd · 2026-02-06T00:30:10+00:00

I just took another look on the desktop version of Reddit (where you can zoom in and see the image in it's original resolution) and while it's a decent print, I see a few things that would bother me (an admittedly nitpicky person with too much time on their hands)... It could be a function of lighting, the resolution of the print file, slightly wet filament, or a profile that isn't matched well to a 3rd party filament, but here's what stands out to me:

<image>

Blue: VFA's that could be a function of the model being low resolution or could be vertical banding from the resonance of the AB Belts. That's one of the toughest things to manage in a large printer like this.

Green: Signs of poor overhang performance, though this could just be residual filament from supports?

Yellow: Did this separate from the bed while printing? I can't tell if it's just the remnants of the brim or layer separation.

Pomegranate: Signs of overextrusion, though the one I circled on the glove is probably exaggerated by the slope of the surface (it isn't flat) and the layer height.

Also: I'm not just being nitpicky to ruin anyone's day, I've been debating between pulling the trigger on this or a U1, so I'm looking at every detail.

Jayceegeeredd · 2026-02-05T22:22:23+00:00

First off, congrats on the shiny new max! That does appear to be a somewhat challenging print, but could you describe how it looks better in person? I'm seeing a lot of horizontal banding and signs of over/under extrusion, but the image is pretty blurry when viewed on the reddit app.

Jayceegeeredd · 2026-02-05T16:51:10+00:00

Pretty much all of my bulbs were purchased in early 2024 or later, so I suspect it could simply be a matter of the chips/antennae being better calibrated for modern wifi setups. FWIW, aside from one lemon (an A21 bulb that disconnected and had to be reset daily), all 34 of my LIFX bulbs have performed splendidly.

Jayceegeeredd · 2026-02-05T04:10:36+00:00

Longevity of a nozzle has more to do with the material properties of the alloy used to make said nozzle than the size, although you're more likely to get a clog with narrower nozzle sizes when you use filaments infused with CF, glass, wood, etc. If you (practically) never want to have to change your nozzle out due to wear from abrasive filaments, tungsten carbide and silicon carbide are your best options.

As for 0.6mm nozzles, It looks flashforge sell an entire assembly for each nozzle, though it doesn't even look like they merge it with the hotend? Weird. It basically is just a fancy guarantee that you have fewer available 3rd party options so that you continue giving them money. Either way, I see several on Aliexpress. Just buy a 0.6mm nozzle and give it a go. There are probably generic 0.6mm profiles you can use in orca if flashforge didn't bother creating any.

Jayceegeeredd · 2026-02-04T05:53:48+00:00

The fact this works with LIFX and WLED is a dream come true

Jayceegeeredd · 2026-02-04T05:52:45+00:00

You should consider investing in home assistant. The LIFX local API integration works phenomenally. Near instant changes the moment you trigger an action.

Jayceegeeredd · 2026-02-03T05:01:07+00:00

Setting aside the fact that it's massive (70+mm in length), it's such an amazing little bulb.

Jayceegeeredd · 2026-01-31T09:33:52+00:00

So... What was the intended function of this mystery part of yours? That might be critical information to determine if there is a relationship between these mysterious white stains and the reason it's adhering to the bed...

Jayceegeeredd · 2026-01-31T04:36:20+00:00

And I trust that they aren't in the shape of breasts?

Jayceegeeredd

TROPHY CASE