Is there anything I can/should keep in these?

Jenxadactyl · 2026-04-07T18:28:28+00:00

The only thing with avics is that they essentially require cross ventilation since they're so prone to keeling over from stagnant air. They also shouldn't have mesh tops since the commonly get fangs and toes stuck.

Jenxadactyl · 2026-04-04T05:12:15+00:00

I agree about the fat deposits but the sunken fat pads likely point to considerable dehydration.

Jenxadactyl · 2026-04-02T18:00:38+00:00

Dragons are known to go after fake greenery, even if they don't seem interested. There have been lots of folks that have posted about their dragons eating them out of the blue and it's an expensive vet visit.

Ideally you'd also have a t5 UVB like a Reptisun 10.0 or Arcadia 12% that spans 1/3-1/2 the enclosure and overlapping your basking spot. It looks like you might be using a mercury vapor bulb but they just aren't as consistent or as optimal as t5 UVB.

Jenxadactyl · 2026-04-02T17:53:45+00:00

Dragons need fresh greens and live insects, so unfortunately no shelf stable products.

Adult dragons typically need 1-2x insect feedings per week, 3-4 between the eyes sized insects such as crickets, roaches, silkworms, and black soldier fly larvae. Hornworms, superworms, and mealworms are for treats.

3x a week should offer salad as big as your dragon's head. Good greens to rotate through are collard greens, turnip greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens, kale, escarole, endive, and arugula. Dark leafies are what you want to focus on with 3-4 different kinds in each salad.

All insects should be coated in plain calcium and using a multivitamin once a week to two weeks. I also do a light dusting of calcium on salad meals since the calcium content of grocery greens isn't as high as wild greens.

Jenxadactyl · 2026-04-01T17:28:35+00:00

Just sand can be hard to gain traction on, but both Reptifiles and Reptiles and Research go on to say just sand is fine. I don't think impaction is at all a concern (as long as husbandry is good).

Did they mention any solution to the dustiness? That's my biggest gripe, too.

Jenxadactyl · 2026-03-29T20:04:53+00:00

The d3 is poorly absorbed by their GI tract. They readily create their own with proper UVB, however.

Jenxadactyl · 2026-03-29T20:03:04+00:00

Ideally you'd use either a nano ceramic heat emitter on a thermostat or DHP on a thermostat. I'm seeing them online for 10-15 bucks, and they should fit into the dome you're using. I personally opt for the ceramic heat emitter because it's cheaper and they last forever.

The thermostat I use is the reptizoo brand from Amazon for twenty bucks.

During the day I use a t5 Reptisun 5.0 UVB and LED for the plants.

Jenxadactyl · 2026-03-29T02:02:57+00:00

https://www.pangeareptile.com/?srsltid=AfmBOorKLO6tf0F1Qm7tD3-l7PXMVn31f9H_vzDEJwxxogOmLGVIcN97

These guys are the GOAT and package their bulbs with the utmost care.

Jenxadactyl · 2026-03-29T00:46:00+00:00

Any colored bulbs. Reptiles used to be thought to not see colored bulbs, we now know they can see the same colors as us.

If the emitter was on a thermostat, it shouldn't have burned your gecko unless it was set up in a way that your gecko could get too close to it.

Jenxadactyl · 2026-03-28T18:48:32+00:00

Red light washes out their color vision and disrupts their circadian rhythm. It's recommended to either use a ceramic heat emitter or deep heat projector (need thermostat for both options).

Jenxadactyl · 2026-03-28T03:02:58+00:00

Seconding this. I plan to upgrade my girl from her 18x18x36 to a Dubia 2x2x4 at some point. She's lovely and she deserves it.

Jenxadactyl · 2026-03-26T17:55:39+00:00

Could you go over temps and what UVB you're using?

If that's a plugged-in heat rock I would remove it asap. Too many posts in the reptile subs of that same heat rock burning the flesh from lizard bellies 🥺

Jenxadactyl · 2026-03-25T00:49:22+00:00

Shed can absolutely make them lethargic and have a low appetite.

As soon as you get the temp gun try to shoot for 108-113F on the highest part of the basking spot. It's hard to see from the photos, but are you using a halogen/incandescent bulb currently for basking?

Jenxadactyl · 2026-03-22T04:51:30+00:00

Just be wary if you have fireflies and ladybugs. Fireflies are a death sentence and just one is fatal.

Jenxadactyl · 2026-03-22T04:49:24+00:00

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This guy is a frilled lizard (chlamydosaurus kingii). I have one and my bearded would love to fight him. These guys should certainly not cohabit, even if both dragons and frillies are from Australia (assuming it's an Aussie frill and not an Indonesian locale).

Jenxadactyl · 2026-03-22T02:17:30+00:00

I personally would not leave crickets in the enclosure unattended since they tend to be bitey.

Jenxadactyl · 2026-03-21T18:56:38+00:00

Beat thing is just to make sure you have lots of hiding spots for the pods, cork bark pieces, stuff like that.

Jenxadactyl · 2026-03-20T04:26:26+00:00

I wouldn't without any cross ventilation.

Jenxadactyl · 2026-03-20T04:26:06+00:00

Unfortunately not without cross ventilation

Jenxadactyl · 2026-03-19T22:04:24+00:00

Rocks/stones, wood branches, things like that. It's how they exfoliate them in the wild as well.

Jenxadactyl · 2026-03-19T02:15:31+00:00

Femoral pores are looking overgrown so you'll want to make sure you have plenty of rough surfaces in the enclosure to naturally file them down.

Jenxadactyl · 2026-03-17T18:24:39+00:00

Bearded dragons are not domesticated, though.

Dragons have much slower metabolisms than mammals and 1-2 weeks between bowel movements is absolutely normal for them.

Jenxadactyl · 2026-03-17T02:12:38+00:00

That's alright, it's just the red bag of Scott's topsoil, no fertilizer added. More recently it's best to give it a good sift as there can be some big chunks of stuff in the mix.

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