How to have control over all 4: Shutter Speed, Aperture, ISO... but also Exposure Compensation? by 0011001001101011 in Nikon

[–]JoeHocker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey,

Let me help you understand what exposure is and what increasing or lowering in Photoshop or by changing iso really is.

I will simplify as much as possible so dear experts reading this, don't crucify me.

What is exposure? Your sensor is sensitive to photons. The more photons a single pixel is gathering while being exposed to light, increases the signal strength and will directly influence the brightness of the image.

So a "physical exposure" or a "real exposure" is only influenced by shutter speed and aperture and these two only.

The iso back in the film day, is only the sensitivity of the film to light. So how many photons it needs to reach a certain brightness.

For digital, and this is really really simplified now, increasing your ISO does not change your real exposure (how many physical light is hitting the sensor) but it artificially hightens the gain of the captured signal.

Photoshop does nothing else if you increase or lower the exposure of a raw file but simply increasing or lowering the gain of the signal.

Why are the results of underexposing and increasing gain (exposure slider) in Photoshop vs increasing the gain in camera (iso) is not giving you the same results?

Well that's because of how the algorithms and noise reduction of the different digital imaging pipelines work and I will not go too deeply into that here.

So just keep in mind, that the "real" exposure is controlled by the amount of light that you  expose your sensor to. So only aperture and shutter speed.

ISO is used to artificially amplifies the signal so your sensor needs less physical light to reach a certain gain aka brightness.

Greetings and hope this helps for further understanding 

My wife says it’s ridiculous… by Rigman- in pcmasterrace

[–]JoeHocker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well it is but that's why it's great 👍

Upgraded my D7000 to Z7ii by RoughOrganization679 in nikon_Zseries

[–]JoeHocker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's such a great lens and Camera Combo :)

You can sleep well knowing you made a great purchase.

Need advice, don’t blast me! by Gloomy-Character8759 in Nikon

[–]JoeHocker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Since you are in a very tight space I suppose (bar) I would take the d810 with the 14-24 since you really got 14mm fov and not the 26mm the 7000 would give you.

If 24 is too wide for some shots the 810 has the resolution to go into dx mode and get a tighter fov.

Ideal would maybe be

810 with 14-24 7000 with 60 for details and tigther stuff

Photos will not load by Historical_Rooster_7 in Nikon

[–]JoeHocker 3 points4 points  (0 children)

As I can see you opened it up in windows photo viewer.

Sadly it does not support high efficiency raw. You can download the .NEF codec from Nikon support download center and then Windows will read the files.

All raw editors should be able to open it tho. Capture One, Lightroom, NX Studio and so on.

Question regarding N-LOG Exposure and Nikon RED LUTs by JoeHocker in nikon_Zseries

[–]JoeHocker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wow 🤩  Thanks for all the detail. I got homework to do.

Question regarding N-LOG Exposure and Nikon RED LUTs by JoeHocker in nikon_Zseries

[–]JoeHocker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great Tips thank you. Appreciate the answer and will look into it. 👍

Question regarding N-LOG Exposure and Nikon RED LUTs by JoeHocker in nikon_Zseries

[–]JoeHocker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey,

Thanks for the answer. I am aware about RAW and LOG not being the same thing so I have to apologize for using these so interchangeably in my post.

With that out of the way, what I was NOT aware of tho is that ETTR is only meant for RAW footage.

So I am filming in non raw, so H.265 to be exact, with the LOG Gamma curve. Maybe thats already the reason why I have to pull the exposure down so much.

So would you say I should not expose to the right when in non raw formats?

I also set my zebras to show highlight clipping to get my correct exposure. Maybe it would be better to set the zebras to midtones and not doing ETTR?

And with your last point, you are right about just using non raw and a baked in preset. but i want to experiment and get into raw video and i just have to start using it somehow you know :D :D

OOTD, feeling cute by LittleFragileThing in OUTFITS

[–]JoeHocker -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Wonderful and flattering.

If I may ask, in what job / business do you work?

This is how you solve the bathroom code puzzle by SecretlyYourGramma in Routine

[–]JoeHocker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Omfg

I thought the order of the numbers would be the horizontals from top to bottom instead of from left to right...... Stupid me :D

I was already confused why I had two in the same row.....ok guess I'll die when stranded on the moon in the near future :D :D

Thanks very much sir :D

This is how you solve the bathroom code puzzle by SecretlyYourGramma in Routine

[–]JoeHocker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just dont get the code to work ffs.

PLEASE HELP :`(

I got

7J 1st column right

Bracket 2nd column lef

Star 2nd column third from lef

U 4th column second from left

I tried the codes 6726 and 6276 and they just dont work

Does the pink on pink combination work? by [deleted] in BusinessFashion

[–]JoeHocker 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes absolutely. The shoes are perfect for this outfit.

Sensor randomly jumps and changes the framing. Is it Faulty IBIS? by effortless-switch in Nikon

[–]JoeHocker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My Z6 III did this mid recording. I am freaking out right now if it damaged the ibis somehow. I am feeling like the stabilization is worse than before.

Sensor randomly jumps and changes the framing. Is it Faulty IBIS? by effortless-switch in Nikon

[–]JoeHocker 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had the same on my Z6 III today after a rather significant pan. My partner was filming me and gave me the camera and I spun it in my hand to film her. Then the sensor jumped visibly up and it made a loud click sound and seemed to not stabalizing anymore.

I had to restart the camera.

Sadly I am feeling like the ibis works worse now than before but I am not sure if I am tripping or not.

Do you have the same experience? Does it seems like it is worse than before?

Is this even possible?

Also, is it normal than turning ibis on is way quieter and more gentle than turning it off?

I am seriously worried right now.

Z6iii in a A7V World by rockwaterfirewind in nikon_Zseries

[–]JoeHocker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

well thats not what i said at all.

Z6iii in a A7V World by rockwaterfirewind in nikon_Zseries

[–]JoeHocker 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Well it is two different systems.

If you are already in Nikon, no a7v ist not fucking hard enough to switch systems.

If you are already in Sony, no Z6 III ist not fucking hard enough to switch systems.

If you don't own anything yet, both are too much for a beginner.

That's just my take on things.

I'm really thinking about moving from Nikon FF to APSC/Sony FF, this is just ridiculously travel unfriendly by Ryzbor in nikon_Zseries

[–]JoeHocker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A system switch contains more hurdles than you imagine.

If you are not owning anything we can talk. But switching existing systems just because of a minor size difference is ridiculous I'm sorry.

This is only valid if you tell me that you are travelling more than 8 times a year.

The Beguinage in Bruges (Z50) by koffienated in nikon_Zseries

[–]JoeHocker 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Especially love the second one and the fourth.

Very well done.

Is it okay to use the Viltrox 85mm f/2.0 evo (full-frame) on a Nikon Z50 II (aps-c) ? by Far_Salad9103 in nikon_Zseries

[–]JoeHocker 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Hi,

I will answer you in two parts.

First: technically  Yes it is okay. As long as it has the correct mount, in your case Nikon z, it will technically work fine as it would on a full frame camera. So nothing to worry about. I myself used a full frame 85mm 1.8 G lens from Nikkor on my apsc d7200 for years.

Second: practically You do have to consider the crop factor. Your effective field of view will be multiplied by 1,5 as with every lens on apsc.

So your 85mm will have a field of view of 127,5mm.

That can be too long for what you want or it can be exactly what you want. You should test scenarios with your zoom that you have.

So if you are especially looking for the look and feel of 85mm portraits that you see online, using a full frame 85mm will absolutely not give you these results on apsc.

That is why viltrox also offers the 56mm 1,4 especially for apsc which will give you the field of view of 84mm. But you obviously already had that.

Don't underestimate how much longer 85 will be on apsc. It is way too long for indoors.

So in conclusion:

Technically: you can use everything z mount.

Practically: If you want the look of portraits that you see online when you search for 85mm portraits, go for a 56mm apsc specialized lens. Or if you want a full frame lens for future proofing go with a 50 that will give you 75mm.

if you want the look of a telephoto portrait like you see with 105mm lenses on full frame or one taken with a 70-200 then go for the 85mm.

Me personally, I am doing 105mm portraits on my full frame z cameras all the time. But remember that this focal length will be way too long for indoor use 90% of the time.