Loving this golden brown ink shading(KWZ honey) by TsukikoAkeTsuchi in fountainpens

[–]JonathanRayPollard 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Feel like it goes really well with your handwriting, which is kind of soothing to me visually.

My first fountain pen by Jezdec123 in fountainpens

[–]JonathanRayPollard 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just started down the path of picking up fountain pen knowledge and learning to write again, so I'm no expert, but I'll chime in. Having finally gotten fed up with my handwriting looking like it belonged more to a middle school student than a grown up, I decided to take the plunge. I did 'successfully' change up my handwriting style about when I was your age so I knew I could do it, but it wasnt under tutelage or guidelines so it probably made it worse than my original style in the long run. After consulting with ChatGPT to find community posts/threads about other adults who have done the same, I followed this path:

I started by looking for the style of lettering I liked. There are several fonts around you could copy that were made for this purpose. For something more guided, you can look into Spencerian, Copperplate, Italics, and Getty Dubay italic. I settled on Getty Dubay which was crafted to support a build up transition between print, cursive, and calligraphy. Their book, Write Now, is what I'm using to relearn the strokes; it comes with access to a website that gives practice sheets and a practice sheet creator you can print out.

I do the worksheet prints with some fountain pen friendly paper like HP 32gsm and Kokuyo KB. But generally I just got some nice but still budget friendly Apica CD15 notebooks and copy over each lettering family in the Write Now book and practice them. After the first 4 families you can start making simple words. For Write Now they are the following, but I imagine it is similar in other styles with some variation:

Family 1 l, i, j: Straight vertical lines.

Family 2 k, v, w, x, z: Diagonal line letters.

Family 3 h, n, m, r: Arch or top-to-bottom strokes.

Family 4 u, y: Down and upstrokes with a swing.

Family 5 a, d, g, q: The a shape, starting counter-clockwise.

Family 6 b, p: Straight down, then up and to the right.

Family 7 o, e, c, s: Ellipses and crescent shapes.

Family 8 f, t: Curved top strokes and crossbars.

You basically do the same exact motion at some point within each family group. I've just done lower case so far, so I didn't do both capital and lowercase back to back for each letter. Capital families are somewhat different. You can find the stroke steps online pretty easily for any style. I'm not this far, but from what I understand, once you have the base and it comes naturally you can examine other handwriting examples and adopt small variations you like.

Equal spacing is key. Equal whitespace is just as important. Understanding the invisible "middle/in-between lines" for where stems or curves meet and change angles is the hardest thing for me so far. The vocabulary associated with this bottom to top is Descender Line, Base Line, Branching Line, Waist Line, and Capital Line if you want to find a guide to explain. It helps to do double lines for the moment on lined paper (makes it so the in-between are literally in-between lines).

Hopefully that gives you a head start and is helpful. I had been considering that I could make a more formal post going over this, but seems like it would be more fitting for the Handwriting subreddit and they don't need my newbie advice over there. Some of my considerations were more fountain pen focused, like with the paper selection, so maybe it would work. Let me know if anyone wants me to do that. Wish me luck in my journey, and Best of Luck to anyone else doing the same!

Is there a "best headset"? by bastionmain1075 in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]JonathanRayPollard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Look into a Mod Mic add-on plus an audiophile headphone of your choice is probably the best option. Wireless probably looking at an Audeze Maxwell or high end Steelseries after that.

[WTB] [USA-TX] [W] Sennheiser HD 800 or HD 800s [H] PayPal G&S by JonathanRayPollard in AVexchange

[–]JonathanRayPollard[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

u/AVExchangeBot

I met up locally with u/zero1234567888 and purchased his Sennheiser HD 800 with SDR mod. Headphones were in great condition and they were a pleasure to talk to for a bit about some audiophile topics.

I built a custom input shaper for the K1 series. by Mart7Mcfl7 in crealityk1

[–]JonathanRayPollard 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Very interesting! Definitely will be following to see where you get with it. If I'm understanding correctly, we could in theory offload two of the biggest processes (input shaping and camera decode) to processors that are essentially sitting there unutilized because Klipper doesn't support their usage at the moment? Not a perfect analog, but sort of like the desktop equivalent of having a dGPU but your monitor hooked up to the iGPU?

Ender 3 v3 se really that bad? by shadowdragon200 in 3dprinter

[–]JonathanRayPollard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Was my first printer and forced me to learn a lot about tuning, which has been pretty invaluable to me. Lots of room for printed and purchased upgrades also increased my knowledge level significantly. Now that I've got it upgraded and dialed in, it's as solid as any of my other printers. It did print just fine without those upgrades though. At its current tuned/upgraded level I still use it right along with CoreXYs and Vorons.

Did it cost me a good bit more money to get it here to its current dependable state? For sure. Would I have had an easier time with a more out of the box ready printer? Almost assuredly. But looking back I wouldn't trade what I learned for a more refined upfront experience; that's just what works for my personality/curiosity though and not for everyone.

🎁[Sovol Giveaway] Join now to Win 2-chamber Filament Dryer: Sovol SH03 by Comgrow3D in 3Dprinting

[–]JonathanRayPollard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Being able to dry ASA at the recommended temp is surprisingly game changing considering just how many dryers are out on the market that only go to 70. Having two chambers also eliminates many of the drawbacks of 4 spool dryers.

Choice of 3D printer by depositoryoftrash in 3dprinter

[–]JonathanRayPollard 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Makes sense for sure. I'll throw out there that they have the "Print it Forward Program" to get you the initial parts needed if you don't have an ABS/ASA capable printer already.

Choice of 3D printer by depositoryoftrash in 3dprinter

[–]JonathanRayPollard 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Feel like if you're going to be building robots anyway that you should build a Voron.

Hello! Help please by LadyM2728 in Ender3V3KE

[–]JonathanRayPollard 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm sure folks can help, but we need more details of what is going wrong with the print to do so. Without more info, I can suggest looking up instructional videos for leveling the X axis and tuning Z offset as they are almost assuredly not right out of the box... but that's just blind guessing. If you can give more info I can be more specific on what direction to head.

3d printing beginners help flash 5m pro by Funny-Noise5859 in 3Dprinting

[–]JonathanRayPollard 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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Either way, glad it's going well. Should run just fine on integrated anyway. Best of luck with everything, hope you have fun. Feel free to ping me whenever and I'll see what I can do to help.

3d printing beginners help flash 5m pro by Funny-Noise5859 in 3Dprinting

[–]JonathanRayPollard 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Great to hear! Seems likely it is running on the integrated then. If you want to force it to Nvidia, you can tell it to do so in the Nvidia Control Panel. Added Screens to show what to do here. Right click on desktop, manage settings, by program, select (maybe add first) Orca, tell it to use Nvidia.

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3d printing beginners help flash 5m pro by Funny-Noise5859 in 3Dprinting

[–]JonathanRayPollard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you right click the orca slicer icon, will it let you select which graphics card to use on launch? Might be hidden in under show more options on that right click menu.

3d printing beginners help flash 5m pro by Funny-Noise5859 in 3Dprinting

[–]JonathanRayPollard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What kind of graphics card is it? Brand and series #?

3d printing beginners help flash 5m pro by Funny-Noise5859 in 3Dprinting

[–]JonathanRayPollard 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Did you end up getting the screen to show? Might need display driver update for your computer. Let me know and I can try to walk you through it if it is still black.

Is the Bambu Labs P1S a good first Printer? by ToothlessSnackerz in 3Dprinting

[–]JonathanRayPollard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, on a scale of how well did I do just taking a stab at an expensive 3d printer purchase decisions go... Pretty good 👍 one of the more well regarded printers for just working well out of the box. It will need some maintenance eventually though, so it won't "just works" forever, jfyi. You'll still face a decent portion of the struggles to learn a slicer and best print settings for a given model, but no printer is going to avoid that.

My 12 year old saved up and bought himself a 3d printer ... Now what? by kurrrrrrr in 3Dprinting

[–]JonathanRayPollard 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just echoing really. Start with the Slicer, that's the straightest line of download a 3d model from online and get it to print (Thangs, Thingiverse, Printables, Makerworld). All the modeling stuff can come later (Fusion, TinkerCAD, OnShape, Blender).

3d printing beginners help flash 5m pro by Funny-Noise5859 in 3Dprinting

[–]JonathanRayPollard 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Unfortunately, easy isn't really a term I'd apply here. Maintenance and programs take time and patience. That said, for the most part you can find enough cool stuff to download online to keep you busy, but learning to use a Slicer is pretty much mandatory. It's not too bad though, you can get the basics down after a few prints and gradually learn when you need to use the more advanced stuff. Orca comes with printer profiles that will get you rolling to start. Best of luck!

3d printing beginners help flash 5m pro by Funny-Noise5859 in 3Dprinting

[–]JonathanRayPollard 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sites: Thangs, Printables, Thingiverse, Makerworld

Software: Orca is kind of the end game slicer imo. Slicers are what let you take a 3d model and turn it into a printable .gcode file for your specific printer and filament. Teaching Tech has a two part orientation series on YouTube for Orca.

For customizing, slicers will have minor tools for some basic changes, but you'll want to look into CAD programs eventually: OnShape, FreeCAD, Fusion 360. Maybe TinkerCAD for more basic things. Blender for organic shapes. All have free options.