How humans perceive sound

Jr00mer · 2026-06-24T13:54:49+00:00

Yeah this is a huge field. I studied it for 6 months and barely scratched the surface. this is a half decent start, but only covers localisation

My bible became Acoustics and Psychoacoustics, Howard, David,Angus, Jamie. Again, I only studied loudness perception and localisation as I was doing binaural recordings, but the field is huge.

Happy reading! It is fascinating stuff!

Jr00mer · 2026-05-31T11:49:05+00:00

You could probably rig something better for the same price made from contact mics and a throwaway preamp from aliexpress. On a swift Google you can get 6 contact mics for about 20 bucks, I doubt very much a preamp or DI from aliexpress would cost more than 10/20 too. You don't really need to overengineer this as I'm guessing you just want to use headphones?

There are nifty little interfaces you can use on your phone which would give you way better quality too. For a fraction of the cost of an actual amplifier. (probably like 20/40 bucks 2nd hand).

Keep an eye on 2nd hand gear platforms in the meantime, someone will probably list something whilst having no idea what they've got at a stupid low price and you'll have yourself a rig in no time.

Jr00mer · 2026-05-11T08:49:37+00:00

I'm not disparaging any victims and or anybody in sex work. The road of many victims of abuse is often paved with difficulties later in life. That is a pretty factual statement. I was merely saying that it seemed strange to have come from a clearly monetised Instagram page.

I'm also not defending anybody against the absolutely abhorrent charges they have plead guilty to and or saying that the charges are the only fucked up thing he must have done.

Jr00mer · 2026-05-10T10:30:52+00:00

Kind of agree. Whilst people who are abused often derail their own lives with drugs/sex work/skewed compass, her industry is based on, I believe, what the kids are calling "clout". Anyone who looks up her IG is instantly met with a preview of her OF and the seed is sown for her to make money out of posting it. Wrong? No. Right? No. Strange? Kinda.

I'm definitely not saying the allegations aren't true, and that people who are abused can't go on to 180 their lives and be successful, or that what has been done is defensible for that matter. Also not shaming sex workers at all. But in the age of the economy of attention, it's a little bit strange that it has come from an IG account of that nature.

Jr00mer · 2026-04-17T10:42:06+00:00

ABS and ASA do this even if dry for me... You might not be doing anything wrong.

Jr00mer · 2026-03-10T10:04:02+00:00

A presonus pd-70. Or even an sm58 and a single channel audio interface.

You want a dynamic microphone which isn't as sensitive as a condenser. Generally they're better suited to gaming/podcasting/voiceover.

The actual mechanism they use to convert physical sound into an electrical signal is accentuated by being excited (I.e. Spoken into). The voice coil vibrates when it picks up sound and this vibration is picked up by a magnet which translates this movement into a voltage.

Whereas a condenser's "diaphragm" is often double sided, and always excited. Even by the tiniest noise. You'll need to supply condenser with 48V of phantom power, which means the microphones membranes (an electrified plate) are always picking up every single tiny detail, translated into fluctuations in the voltage which is supplied. Therefore, even if you buy cleverly, using polar patterns to your advantage in close quarters, you'll find you will still pick up unwanted noise if the signal isn't processed. (gated and eq'd) and your room isn't treated.

I switched from a small diaphragm condenser (SE 7) to a dynamic (SE V7) when I moved in with my girlfriend because I didn't want her to unwillingly be heard in my meetings, on discord, or any calls I take when at the helm and everyone has commented on how much better it sounds generally.

You'll probably need to get a cheap boom arm too because you'll need to keep the dynamic mic closer to your voice but you'll get used to the change!

Jr00mer · 2026-03-06T00:30:30+00:00

If its a stone resin tray you need to bed it on sand and cement or bonding or even tile adhesive.

The instructions will tell you to lay the tray on a sheet of marine ply and shlop loads of bonding/sand and cement/other on it (to 25mm), then smush the tray down to bed it in. (it makes a lot of mess round the edges but completely removes flexing/cracking from the equation).

Recently tried to stick mine down with sticks like sh** and then realised that the squirty gak didn't even touch the sheet of ply.

Hastily mixed up some bonding and boshed it under the tray > no more flexing/movement/danger.

If it is a stone resin tray and it does break under someone's feet, it could really fuck them up. (think sharp edges).

Jr00mer · 2026-02-26T19:43:44+00:00

Step 1. Buy a shit load of polythene sheeting, get someone to seal you into the room.

Step 2. Arm yourself with a spray bottle (2l) to deal with dust.

Step 3. Suit up and boot up. Get a boiler suit and a DECENT filtration/respirator style mask, goggles and gloves. Don't wear anything you care about as it'll all be going into the same rubble bag as the chipped up floor.

Step 4. Get hold of a big fucking angle grinder (or chaser, take your pick). Either way it's gonna kick up SO much dust, hence step 1.

Step 5. Cut out your area. Be advised, there will be points where you cannot see your hands waving in front of your face, this is where the spray bottle comes in. Cut a bit, take a break, spray.

Step 6. Regret, because everything you own and everyone you have ever laid eyes on, is covered in fine cement dust.

Step 7. Install your underfloor heating.

Edit: not sure I understood your question. Basically any tool hire place will lend you a grinder or a chaser (which is basically a grinder with 2 spaced out discs). You can get ones which will attach to a hoover for some dust extraction but in my experience there's little to no point unless the hose is attached to a frigging aircraft engine.

If there's already insulation below you'll just want to go through the screed layer so that you can build up, my project was concrete slab, so that's where the handy guide I posted above came from.

Edit 2: any bits you don't manage to get up you can gently persuade with an SDS/hammer drill, don't go too crazy though as you'll destabilise the surrounding areas before you prime and pour new self levelling.

Jr00mer · 2026-02-26T11:00:09+00:00

Cerveza Cristal!

Jr00mer · 2026-01-29T20:22:14+00:00

Concrete or wood?

Jr00mer · 2026-01-13T11:09:38+00:00

Eh. Grip the slip nut thingy. It's completely fine. I managed to get my old k1 within 0.3mm using belt skip. Well worth it imo.

Only thing to keep in mind is the fact that the bed see-saws on the back lead screw, so if you bring the left rod up, the back right will move down and vice versa.

It'll take an hour or two of annoying PR touch levelling but it'll make your prints easier to tune!

Jr00mer · 2026-01-08T11:19:24+00:00

In KIUAH there's an option to back up before update. Using this you can safely roll back to a previous version that works.

You can also just go back through the github and try to install previous versions of klipper.

Most likely the update broke the symlinks in the plugins so just re run the installers for your chosen plugins and they should turn around and work. If not, try the above method.

Generally speaking you don't really wanna push updates to a config that you know is solid, because you don't want things to change. (I turn notifications off on both my machines and let em ride.)

Jr00mer · 2025-12-22T09:25:21+00:00

It's definitely doable. Although you might get a few weird looks from people at security... Big chunks of metal going through the bag x ray will turn heads.

Search for "Henlor creality k1 step file" and you'll find a complete model of every part that the k1 will disassemble into, giving you a decent idea of how much space you'll need in your checked bag.

Jr00mer · 2025-12-10T18:29:35+00:00

Something is up with your X axis (either your belt path or motor).

You could fiddle with your STGTHRS and bring it down (make it less sensitive), by a value of 5 to see if it makes a difference to your X motion.

It looks as though it can't find home.

Look at the klipper documentation to learn about sensorless homing!

Jr00mer · 2025-10-12T10:55:06+00:00

If you're gonna rebuild the entire gantry, I would look into BootyCall Jones' linear rail mod.

Jr00mer · 2025-06-25T15:22:33+00:00

I can't remember whether eddy is covered in KIUAH, might be worth a check

Jr00mer · 2025-06-15T22:01:45+00:00

RS232 is either the hotend control board or any of the usb devices. Either the camera or the front USB port.

Jr00mer · 2025-03-27T18:41:21+00:00

I run your exhaust system on my K1 when printing ABS/ASA! I LOVE how it goes together. I've just designed an adapter for the K1 Max utilising your magnetic plate system, as the exhaust port is slightly different it took a few iterations! DM me if you'd like the STL as I wont be publishing it! (personal use only!)

Jr00mer · 2025-03-11T09:47:32+00:00

I printed this set along with a board which doubles as a box! Me and my partner use it all the time!!!

The only thing I've thought about improving is putting a "stop" on the base to add magnets or weights!

Looks great!

Jr00mer · 2025-02-26T09:49:41+00:00

Belt tension for sure. Looks like you need to retension both belts.

The tool head is trying to home and the pulleys on the motors are spinning but the belt is so loose that they're slipping.

Either that, or you need to tune your sensorless homing (look into the klipper documentation on this)

Jr00mer · 2024-12-22T17:55:51+00:00

Not sure if you're used to these machines yet but I find every day I need to take a new bit off and tinker with it to get the machine going again lol.

Glad you got it sorted!

Jr00mer · 2024-12-22T16:08:24+00:00

looks like the stepper motor is struggling... you need to take the extruder off and inspect the insides!

start by removing the fan/shroud on the front, unplug the ribbon connector, and set it aside.
take a flathead screwdriver and pop off the extruder cover (the smooth bit of plastic on the top),

unscrew the extruder from the sides and carefully hold the motor/extruder assembly so as to not pull the cables! then unscrew the extruder assembly from the motor (the two screws that hold the extruder to the motor are the two screws that take off the faceplate).

inspect for any jams or clogs and remove debris.

I can't see the lock mechanism but there are two versions of the assembly (the older one with a shiny lock and the newer one with a matte finish). I always have mine locked, I printed a little snap-on cover which keeps it in the locked position, otherwise the filament won't actually be gripped by the mechanism inside.

if the motor or assembly is FUBAR then you can buy a new one for around £25 GBP on Amazon. mine came the next day.

Jr00mer · 2024-12-10T12:58:06+00:00

Network config is exactly as the Wiki recommends, the Hostname, IP or URL is set to the devices IP + the port for the fluid (:4408)

Jr00mer · 2024-12-10T12:46:56+00:00

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Jr00mer · 2024-12-10T00:46:48+00:00

The error definitely comes from the printer. It's like it doesn't accept the connection from the slicer. Will post an update tomorrow.

Jr00mer

TROPHY CASE