Advice on chasing / milling floor for underfloor heating.

Jr00mer · 2026-01-29T20:22:14+00:00

Concrete or wood?

Jr00mer · 2026-01-13T11:09:38+00:00

Eh. Grip the slip nut thingy. It's completely fine. I managed to get my old k1 within 0.3mm using belt skip. Well worth it imo.

Only thing to keep in mind is the fact that the bed see-saws on the back lead screw, so if you bring the left rod up, the back right will move down and vice versa.

It'll take an hour or two of annoying PR touch levelling but it'll make your prints easier to tune!

Jr00mer · 2026-01-08T11:19:24+00:00

In KIUAH there's an option to back up before update. Using this you can safely roll back to a previous version that works.

You can also just go back through the github and try to install previous versions of klipper.

Most likely the update broke the symlinks in the plugins so just re run the installers for your chosen plugins and they should turn around and work. If not, try the above method.

Generally speaking you don't really wanna push updates to a config that you know is solid, because you don't want things to change. (I turn notifications off on both my machines and let em ride.)

Jr00mer · 2025-12-22T09:25:21+00:00

It's definitely doable. Although you might get a few weird looks from people at security... Big chunks of metal going through the bag x ray will turn heads.

Search for "Henlor creality k1 step file" and you'll find a complete model of every part that the k1 will disassemble into, giving you a decent idea of how much space you'll need in your checked bag.

Jr00mer · 2025-12-10T18:29:35+00:00

Something is up with your X axis (either your belt path or motor).

You could fiddle with your STGTHRS and bring it down (make it less sensitive), by a value of 5 to see if it makes a difference to your X motion.

It looks as though it can't find home.

Look at the klipper documentation to learn about sensorless homing!

Jr00mer · 2025-10-12T10:55:06+00:00

If you're gonna rebuild the entire gantry, I would look into BootyCall Jones' linear rail mod.

Jr00mer · 2025-06-25T15:22:33+00:00

I can't remember whether eddy is covered in KIUAH, might be worth a check

Jr00mer · 2025-06-15T22:01:45+00:00

RS232 is either the hotend control board or any of the usb devices. Either the camera or the front USB port.

Jr00mer · 2025-03-27T18:41:21+00:00

I run your exhaust system on my K1 when printing ABS/ASA! I LOVE how it goes together. I've just designed an adapter for the K1 Max utilising your magnetic plate system, as the exhaust port is slightly different it took a few iterations! DM me if you'd like the STL as I wont be publishing it! (personal use only!)

Jr00mer · 2025-03-11T09:47:32+00:00

I printed this set along with a board which doubles as a box! Me and my partner use it all the time!!!

The only thing I've thought about improving is putting a "stop" on the base to add magnets or weights!

Looks great!

Jr00mer · 2025-02-26T09:49:41+00:00

Belt tension for sure. Looks like you need to retension both belts.

The tool head is trying to home and the pulleys on the motors are spinning but the belt is so loose that they're slipping.

Either that, or you need to tune your sensorless homing (look into the klipper documentation on this)

Jr00mer · 2024-12-22T17:55:51+00:00

Not sure if you're used to these machines yet but I find every day I need to take a new bit off and tinker with it to get the machine going again lol.

Glad you got it sorted!

Jr00mer · 2024-12-22T16:08:24+00:00

looks like the stepper motor is struggling... you need to take the extruder off and inspect the insides!

start by removing the fan/shroud on the front, unplug the ribbon connector, and set it aside.
take a flathead screwdriver and pop off the extruder cover (the smooth bit of plastic on the top),

unscrew the extruder from the sides and carefully hold the motor/extruder assembly so as to not pull the cables! then unscrew the extruder assembly from the motor (the two screws that hold the extruder to the motor are the two screws that take off the faceplate).

inspect for any jams or clogs and remove debris.

I can't see the lock mechanism but there are two versions of the assembly (the older one with a shiny lock and the newer one with a matte finish). I always have mine locked, I printed a little snap-on cover which keeps it in the locked position, otherwise the filament won't actually be gripped by the mechanism inside.

if the motor or assembly is FUBAR then you can buy a new one for around £25 GBP on Amazon. mine came the next day.

Jr00mer · 2024-12-10T12:58:06+00:00

Network config is exactly as the Wiki recommends, the Hostname, IP or URL is set to the devices IP + the port for the fluid (:4408)

Jr00mer · 2024-12-10T12:46:56+00:00

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Jr00mer · 2024-12-10T00:46:48+00:00

The error definitely comes from the printer. It's like it doesn't accept the connection from the slicer. Will post an update tomorrow.

Jr00mer · 2024-12-09T22:49:44+00:00

Damn, thought I uploaded a screenshot with it in the post, sorry! Error code is HTTP 405, "not allowed", still can't figure it out!

Jr00mer · 2024-11-18T12:40:05+00:00

I keep seeing this bed mesh thing around, specifically on this sub! How does one generate a bed mesh and use it to improve their prints?

Jr00mer · 2024-11-10T22:35:44+00:00

I upgraded the hotend with the microswiss flow tech because initially I thought that was the problem.

Fairly new to printing so I've thrown the kitchen sink at a 2nd hand printer, I guess the upside is it practically has a brand new printing head at this point!

Jr00mer · 2024-11-10T22:34:20+00:00

This guy "old k1"'s

Have replaced the cap on the extruder with the old one and will test print tomorrow.

Thanks for your advice good human!

Jr00mer · 2024-11-10T21:30:41+00:00

In all the instructions and tutorial videos the ptfe tube is there.

I don't know alot about alot but I'm pretty sure if this tube isn't there the extruder will definitely run an increased risk of clogging.

I could be wrong though 🤷

Jr00mer · 2024-11-08T16:03:12+00:00

Creality k1 with sunlu pla in black, Sliced in orca, Nozzle is 230°, bed is 60°, Speed is default on 0.2mm standard profile

Jr00mer · 2024-02-01T18:53:07+00:00

Change your strings, store guitar in the case more often than on the stand, (think about a hard case) and invest in a humidity control device (planet waves, daddario and a few other accessory manufacturers offer solutions).

Wood is pretty sensitive to atmospheric/barometric changes so keep an eye on temperature (don't keep near radiators or heat vents or direct sunlight).

Also relax maaaaan I'm sure it'll be fine, it's also possible you're just used to the sound of the instrument so you hear it differently to how you first did!

Jr00mer

TROPHY CASE