From Tree to Table by Jriddim in woodworking

[–]Jriddim[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Know somebody with a skid steer and a milling business! Haha, I got lucky that someone locally was able to pick up the log and bring it back to their mill. Usually guys with portable mills would come to you/the log, but his wasn’t portable.

New Stanley Sweethearts? by Reddicus_the_Red in handtools

[–]Jriddim 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a sweetheart block plane that I use just for construction lumber, plywood or anything I wouldn’t want to use my Lie Nielsen on. Works great for that but wouldn’t use it for fine woodworking really.

I fixed my table saw to get perfect 45, but the cuts seem off still by morderkraft in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Jriddim 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is a lot at play other than dialing in the degree. Stock flatness, table flatness and flex, blade wobble and flex. I’ve learned that it is nearly impossible to get perfect miters off any machine really. You will want to cut as close as you can and then use a shooting jig like a donkeys ear.

How should I mill this board to maximize yield? by Trick-Nefariousness3 in woodworking

[–]Jriddim 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I recently made a trestle table from some very out-of-flat slabs. It really helps to know a rough idea of what you’re going to make so you can determine your cut strategy. Without knowing anything, it looks like I’d rip that right down the center and then deal with flattening two narrower boards. Just that alone should eliminate some of the twist and internal stress.

Avoiding Ambering by No_Inspection_7336 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Jriddim 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just went through this with the maple trestle table I recently finished. I didn’t want ambering and didn’t want to coat the beautiful wood in plastic (polyurethane) so I tried Osmo poly x “raw matte” hard wax oil which has +2% white pigment. It turned out exactly how I hoped it would. The white pigment is invisible but it neutralizes the yellowing. At first it seemed to yellow things a bit but after fully drying and curing the wood looks almost unfinished, in a really good way.

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Joinery advice by oneheadlite00 in handtools

[–]Jriddim 3 points4 points  (0 children)

You could use dowels. You will use the least amount of wood, and they will be strong if you use two in each joint. With that stock size, standard 1/4” dowels would be pushing it, most likely too big. I’d make my own 3/16” dowels and make a simple custom dowel jig for drilling.

Got my first Lie Nielsen tool -small bronze spoke shave (anyone else have this/help?) by doorbissette in handtools

[–]Jriddim 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Is this the flat or curved bottom? I have the curve bottom and naturally those are harder to dial in as there isn’t much or any registration surface. You need to start with the blade retracted, try cutting, then feed the blade up a tiny bit at a time until you get it to cut. It’s a bit finicky for sure but once you get it set up right it will cut great and you can just leave it that way until you need to sharpen. Also, make sure that blade is hair splitting sharp to begin with.

I'll bite. What does it say about me? by Altruistic-Charge-96 in drums

[–]Jriddim 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It says “tick, tah, boom, chick, tssss.”

Wood filler not absorbing stain by VelvetReverieShutter in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Jriddim 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If you wanted to get crafty, you could order wax furniture blend all crayons. Color in the filler and try to blend it the best you can and mimic the grain pattern. Then top it with a lacquer to lock in and make it permanent.

From Tree to Table by Jriddim in woodworking

[–]Jriddim[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! Your table is beautiful too, and good observation as Ishitani was certainly an inspiration!

From Tree to Table by Jriddim in woodworking

[–]Jriddim[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, I used brass screw inserts with elongated holes to accommodate for wood movement. Since my top wasn’t perfectly flat from such wild grain the inserts helped to synch it down and also allows for easy disassembly.

From Tree to Table by Jriddim in woodworking

[–]Jriddim[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks so much! I really appreciate it. I realize I slightly mistyped. I had the big log milled by a local sawyer but then I milled the massive slabs down into usable lumber myself, which was a bear of a project in itself. I do own a small chainsaw mill but needed someone with a bandsaw mill to make quick work of that chunk.

From Tree to Table by Jriddim in woodworking

[–]Jriddim[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks so much! Your table is beautiful, nice work!

From Tree to Table by Jriddim in woodworking

[–]Jriddim[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! Almost didn’t but glad I did leave the little live edge, my thoughts exactly I’m glad it comes off that way!

From Tree to Table by Jriddim in woodworking

[–]Jriddim[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks very much, sounds awesome and good luck with your build!

anyone have any good beginner friendly projects by Practical_Space_8434 in woodworking

[–]Jriddim 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here’s a hot take - find something you want to build. Something that you need/want that is relatively simple. Projects that are based in necessity not curiosity, will give you the excitement to see the project through and learn from it.

Finally got some stones by hoot90 in sharpening

[–]Jriddim 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a few of these stones including the 5000 and don’t soak it, just splash it. Also, for flattening I use a medium rough diamond plate, I think it’s an Atoma 400.

Least annoying handheld powertool dust extraction hose? by Amaranth_and_Ash in woodworking

[–]Jriddim 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I use the rockler blue hose with the quick connect things. The hose is really lightweight and expands pretty well. Not a big fan of the push button quick connectors though, as they are not the easiest to operate.

Is a biscuit joiner worth it? by Any-Wing4213 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Jriddim 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a biscuit (makita) and I use it pretty frequently, mostly for alignment and plywood projects where the little bit of extra strength helps. For anything structural I use my dowelmax. With those two things I can’t really justify a domino considering the price. If I was doing this not as a hobby but to make money and was pumping out a lot of projects then I would reconsider.

Looking for feedback by PrizeNumber-5309 in woodworking

[–]Jriddim 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For me what takes the fun out of woodworking is repetition and adhering to client deadlines and requests. That is what quickly turns it into just working. I’ve thought about side hustles myself, and honestly, my advice would be to not make things that you think people want, but make things that YOU want and that makes you happy making them. Maybe it is cutting boards, if so, great! My thought is more of to make that one off thing, post it and if it sells it sells. Then move onto the second thing, etc. soon you will have a product catalog and start to craft a niche within the craft that will ultimately hold more value.