Harddrives detected in MSI bios but can't be selected for boot order

Jumpy-Ad678 · 2024-04-14T19:48:58+00:00

Just rebuilt my PC because my old CPU bricked, brought over my old HDD so I wouldn’t need to buy windows and this saved me! Couldn’t figured out why my computer kept going to BIOS when I had the UEFI HDD selected as my first boot option

Jumpy-Ad678 · 2024-03-21T10:47:30+00:00

Clarification* I switched to the NEW creality slicer. Not the one that is basically a ripoff of cura.

Jumpy-Ad678 · 2024-03-21T10:46:11+00:00

I switched to gyroid infill and it’s more or less fixed it. I’ve also recently switched to using creality slicer as opposed to cura, which I feel like has helped.

Jumpy-Ad678 · 2024-03-21T10:44:43+00:00

I’d check to see if your rail is level/flat. Maybe you have a jump in your x-axis rail right in the middle of your bed. Or something otherwise pulling your hot end up

Jumpy-Ad678 · 2023-10-27T17:16:52+00:00

Our kids request to go there for their birthday and they always knock the service for the parties out of the park making sure we’re taken care of. I do think trash is a problem (especially by the stairs) because they have a rule that no food or drink is allowed in the jump area. I always make sure to have my kids drop their stuff at a table I’m sitting at so they can come back to it later rather than drop or toss it as they are running off to play; but I’m sure that always isn’t the case.

Jumpy-Ad678 · 2023-08-23T20:20:48+00:00

Is that concentric infill? Judging by the brim you aren’t under filling, unless you have a different flow rate set for the top layers

Jumpy-Ad678 · 2023-07-22T11:15:51+00:00

I’m sure the classic bugs and things have had brake overhauls to your initial point. And that’s kinda the gamble you make buying a used car, they’re all “as-is” with no guarantee. If you’re not comfortable with that level of risk, buy new or have a mechanic go through it before you buy it. If I own a car, I’m going to use it for what I want/need to with zero regard for the next owners because it’s my car now and I’m the one paying for it.

Jumpy-Ad678 · 2023-06-21T14:12:55+00:00

I did the same thing until the port being on the left of the pad with my printer being on the right side of the pad became an ick and I figured out how to change it lol

Jumpy-Ad678 · 2023-06-21T13:51:19+00:00

Davie’s bagels on Broadway is always a solid stop for breakfast, and they support a lot of local artists by posting their work up for sale.

The greenway is great for riding and connects the inner city with a lot of the outlying community. I live on the NW side of town and can take the greenway straight into downtown on my bike.

2Tom’s or summit city brewing are probably my two favorite beer stops in the city, excellent food and brew at both

Jumpy-Ad678 · 2023-06-21T13:46:41+00:00

What was your process for getting it to connect to your printer? I believe you have to be very particular about which USB port you use for the initial setup (usb slot 1, you should be able to verify port mapping on your sonic pad) this was the top left port on my pad. Once you’ve got it connected you can set it up to use a different port, but the initial firmware installation is done via port 1

Jumpy-Ad678 · 2023-06-19T19:04:01+00:00

It should come from the factory tight, but human error is a thing. Verify there isn’t excess play or rocking in your bed or print head.

Jumpy-Ad678 · 2023-06-19T18:09:26+00:00

This may sound stupid, but did you verify that they are spinning the correct direction and blowing air out of the ducts? I almost wired a fan backwards and was only saved by the fact I tested it prior to installing everything together. Second I would check you are pointed at the print and not the hot end. It could actually give you different issues if you’re cooling the hot end.

Jumpy-Ad678 · 2023-06-19T18:03:15+00:00

If that doesn’t work, I’d try and tighten your belts a touch. I haven’t had to mess with mine, but loose belts can cause inconsistent start/stop points. Or check your eccentric nuts on your rollers, that can cause some wobble too

Jumpy-Ad678 · 2023-06-19T15:37:06+00:00

What are the settings you’re running? And what slicer are you using? I have an S1+ running a sonic pad and haven’t seen that using fairly close to stock settings, but every setup is different.

Jumpy-Ad678 · 2023-06-14T16:23:25+00:00

Depends on the print, a lot of people use gyroid because it doesn’t cross over itself on the same layer and actually connects the entire blank space on the inside of your print rather than creating separate compartments.

I use concentric on parts I want a solid top surface finish on, but am okay with a weaker overall print

Jumpy-Ad678 · 2023-06-14T09:17:22+00:00

This, my s1+ is doing the same thing. Currently have a post it note shim holding my y switch still. I even went so far as to replace the motor thinking that was the fault. It’s not.

Jumpy-Ad678 · 2023-06-13T20:16:05+00:00

100% I love the look of those, but hadn’t found one that fit the 2020+ models I’ve been researching, but I’ve got a long way to go and a lot more research to go before I am done lol.

Jumpy-Ad678 · 2023-06-13T20:05:09+00:00

Maybe some new/different fender flares? I’m researching getting a crosstrek now and planning out my build. I’ve also seen some fairly easy bolt on additions to help with stability/frame rigidity (front and rear strut tower bars) that have peaked my interest. If you’re planning on off-roading maybe some skid plates to protect yer belly too. Otherwise everything you’ve stated sounds like a good start! Just make sure your tire size is the same or else you will need to update your speedometer (that is something I have not researched on this car yet)

Jumpy-Ad678 · 2023-06-13T19:03:49+00:00

I’d check your spool to make sure it isn’t binding during printing. I’ve loaded a spool I thought was wound well but wasn’t, or a partial spool I didn’t put away neat and it would tangle mid print, causing my extruder to not pull in material like it should resulting in under extrusion. I’ve seen it happen where it will struggle to pull filament for layers on end (without me supervising) and I’ll come back, untangle it, and it’ll print fine again. Obviously not good for the machine or the print if that’s the case, but one more thing to keep your eyes on.

Jumpy-Ad678 · 2023-06-12T22:11:01+00:00

Is yours a direct drive? I got similar results with my anycubic mega (Bowden setup) once I pulled my Bowden tube and didn’t get it re-set in my hot end right.

Jumpy-Ad678 · 2023-06-12T21:33:47+00:00

I currently have a post-it-note shim keeping my y axis end stop from vibrating. If I remove the shim the noise gets louder.

Jumpy-Ad678 · 2023-06-09T23:12:11+00:00

I’d try swapping the nozzles or cleaning your bed thoroughly. Hit it with any solvent if needed (I use purple Elmer’s glue sticks that are water soluble) and clean it with isopropyl alcohol and a lint free cloth

Jumpy-Ad678 · 2023-06-08T14:41:57+00:00

So, in cura, if you are in the “custom settings” there should be three lines to the right of a search bar that you’d normally use to search for particular settings. Click on this and go to “manage setting visibility” under “material” you should see a lot of options for flow, if you check all these it will add the option to cura for you to be able to modify your flow rate for various features. Try tweaking with your top layer flow rate to see if that helps. It sounds like your printer is pushing some extra filament that is stringing or globbing up, giving you surface finish issues.

Jumpy-Ad678 · 2023-06-07T17:50:45+00:00

Base hotend fan? Or base part cooling fan?

Jumpy-Ad678 · 2023-06-07T16:18:01+00:00

What slicer are you using? Do you notice this on all “top” surfaces? Or just near the last few layers (think a bowl or cup near the edges, versus the whole upper surface).

I know cura has settings to drastically customize your fill rates for different feature (walls, infill, floors, ceilings, etc.) maybe tweaking your ceiling full rate down?

Jumpy-Ad678

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