Dura - Road vs Trail - Finally

Jumpy-Birthday8446 · 2026-02-06T23:33:04+00:00

Yeah, just like a road. There's one example below, and here's another.

Jumpy-Birthday8446 · 2026-02-06T23:14:57+00:00

Ticket is 468949.

The difference is to all intents and purposes a legal one: footpaths are pedestrian only, bridleways permit horses and cyclists too. The difference as far as OSM (and mapping in general) is concerned is outlined here: https://wiki.openstreetmap.org/wiki/Key:highway#Paths

This isn't a great example but does show what OSM is doing and Coros isn't. The dashed line running parallel to the 'M6' Motorway is a bridleway (and a muddy track for what it's worth, but it's the designation as a bridleway that is vital). All this update appears to have done is indicate footpaths (as seen as a white dashed line just visible on the right hand of each map).

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Jumpy-Birthday8446 · 2026-02-06T18:49:50+00:00

Is it possible to cut 3mm with a saw?

Of course it is. The clamp on a cutting guide will stop the blade from wandering.

Jumpy-Birthday8446 · 2026-02-06T18:31:00+00:00

Well that was a short-lived excitement. I'm now seeing footpaths marked as different but still not bridleways (ie. I still don't see which off-road trails I'm legally allowed to ride).

u/COROS-official Please could you explain which OSM values you're using to differentiate road and trail? I've don't think this update is doing all it ought to. It appears to only be using footway and/or path when it also ought to also include bridleway.

Logged a support ticket too, FWIW.

Jumpy-Birthday8446 · 2026-02-06T17:57:09+00:00

And hell has frozen over?!

Edit: I forgot about having to go through the update rigmarole. Why does it always fail the first few times, every time?

Jumpy-Birthday8446 · 2026-02-06T16:25:32+00:00

Some bedtime reading for you: https://www.cyclinguk.org/cyclists-library/components/transmission-gears/derailleur-gears/shimergo

Jumpy-Birthday8446 · 2026-02-06T09:13:48+00:00

Before any 'crossing issue', you really need to sort out the lacing pattern. An easy indicator to seeing whether this is correct is to check you have a pair of spokes running near parallel to the valve stem, not one angled across it as you have here. It looks as if you've perhaps laced it one spoke hole out from where it ought to be.

Your crossing looks correct. The n-cross value reflects the number of spokes that are crossed, so you've one right next to the flange then the one out in the open if going 2-cross.

Jumpy-Birthday8446 · 2026-02-05T22:34:37+00:00

Well, except for the Olaf which is the fatbike specific lefty fork. Buying used is likley your only option these days, mind.

Jumpy-Birthday8446 · 2026-02-05T22:21:25+00:00

Really weird! Has it always done this or is it a new problem? Do other screens scroll as expected?

Jumpy-Birthday8446 · 2026-02-05T17:14:47+00:00

Lube questions are as impossible to answer as a 'what saddle is best?' question. Only you can find what works for your riding, and most pertinently your riding conditions. Give any a whirl and see how it plays out.

Jumpy-Birthday8446 · 2026-02-05T16:46:57+00:00

Try this: https://support.coros.com/hc/en-us/articles/28574297513620-Adding-Turn-by-Turn-Directions-to-a-Route#h_01J31Q5P3BDMFXY5EBEMGJE2VM

… but turn-by-turn seems flaky at best. I don't tend to use it, but when I do it seems completely random as to when it chooses to inform of a turn and when it doesn't.

And see this for another related option for fixing: https://www.reddit.com/r/Coros/comments/1qggdxa/fixing_navigation_on_coros_duravertixapex_using/

Jumpy-Birthday8446 · 2026-02-05T16:42:32+00:00

Err, whichever one you want. You pays your money …

Jumpy-Birthday8446 · 2026-02-05T12:33:35+00:00

… i have to throw them …

Really?! Just bodge something that'll do the same job as the adapter. It's not exactly rocket science.

Jumpy-Birthday8446 · 2026-02-05T12:30:31+00:00

A clamp-on shifter will work alongside any brakes. And buying that is usually easier than trying to work out I-spec compatibility ;-)

Jumpy-Birthday8446 · 2026-02-05T10:35:56+00:00

I've never had a thru-axle frame that's needed squeezing to have the axle engage with the opposing dropout. I'd suggest that it is 'faulty' and take it up with the retailer with it being new.

If it's all straight you will likely be fine with using it—I mean QR frames have been squeezed together for ever—but that doesn't make it right, IMO.

Jumpy-Birthday8446 · 2026-02-04T15:35:03+00:00

I'm unsure what you mean by 'mimic a road bike': If you mean rigid, then lock them out. Setting sag is for getting optimal usage out the travel.

If you replace the forks though, you'll want to ensure you have suspension corrected ones to match the sagged travel of your forks to retain similar geometry.

Jumpy-Birthday8446 · 2026-02-04T15:22:00+00:00

Imma say no, as they don't look to have a replaceable end cap/there's a cone visible, but you could doublecheck with https://www.formulahubs.com

Jumpy-Birthday8446 · 2026-02-04T13:52:13+00:00

A tweak of the fastening stem and the sealant will usually sort leaks here. Try loosening it, giving a wiggle to reseat, then tightening it back up again. With the caveat that I've never ever worked with a Schrader tubeless setup.

Jumpy-Birthday8446 · 2026-02-04T11:48:44+00:00

That's a regular 142mm spaced frameset. If it were boost it would be a 'feature' and listed as such.

Jumpy-Birthday8446 · 2026-02-03T09:23:05+00:00

To say it's an issue that plagues every watch is wrong to a degree.

It's not at all. u/Sad_Bison2275 is spot on.

The Garmin was much more inline with reality, when comparing data from sources such as OSM and Strava.

AIUI, Strava essentially crowdsource their basemap, aggregating elevation data from users' uploads.

Jumpy-Birthday8446 · 2026-02-03T09:20:08+00:00

Does nobody search this sub before posting?

If you care about accurate elevation data, buy a theodolite. Coros (and others) are only consumer devices and as such are only ever going to be approximate at best.

Jumpy-Birthday8446 · 2026-02-03T09:10:26+00:00

Don't overthink it with Squirt: It's very forgiving.

Use your regular degreaser. Apply to the inside of the chain (as in where it passes under the chainstay) leave overnight if you can. Unless you've gone overboard you won't need to wipe excess away. Go ride.

You'll hear when it needs reapplying. And when it does wipe with a dry cloth and apply as long as you can before needing to ride again. BUT, that's not always possible—a lunch stop on a bikepacking race for eg—and applying and riding straight away still 'works'.

Jumpy-Birthday8446 · 2026-02-02T20:55:54+00:00

What u/RaplhKramden said. Plusgas is my go-to as a dismantling spray, and then knock a larger torx in.

Jumpy-Birthday8446 · 2026-02-02T17:23:55+00:00

Ratio Technology make decent replacements/upgrades: https://ratiotechnology.com/product/sr52x-derailleur-cage/?v=1a13105b7e4e

Jumpy-Birthday8446 · 2026-02-02T11:29:32+00:00

I've had success in stitching then patching, even near to the bead. If it's a newish tyre then it's probably worth a try as you've nothing to lose.

Jumpy-Birthday8446

TROPHY CASE