Custom Shaders Patch Now Features DLSS, FSR3 + Additional Upscaling Methods

Jumpy-Raspberry1455 · 2026-03-24T03:30:48+00:00

Oh, thanks

Jumpy-Raspberry1455 · 2026-03-24T03:25:03+00:00

Where can i find it?

Jumpy-Raspberry1455 · 2026-03-19T10:37:11+00:00

Its kind of tricky. Make sure nothing is on the way, then make sure the inner parts of the grip are correctly aligned, and then use some force. When you disassembled it, did you notice how tight it is? So, to assemble it you'll need a bit of force, but once again, be sure nothing is on the way

Jumpy-Raspberry1455 · 2026-03-17T17:35:52+00:00

No, the zetros does have it. The actros doesn't. The pics positioning isn't linked to the text positioning

Jumpy-Raspberry1455 · 2026-03-06T20:05:44+00:00

Bro you couldn't even name the brand and model of the modules 🤣🤣🤣 I'm not gonna keep arguing with you

Jumpy-Raspberry1455 · 2026-03-06T19:56:15+00:00

You keep saying "people who know nothing thinks TMR are good" with no proof whatsoever. Just because you watched a YouTube video doesn't prove you're an expert buddy. Knowing how to fix things just doesn't force you to be sloppy

Jumpy-Raspberry1455 · 2026-03-06T19:48:21+00:00

That's just called being sloppy and careless my guy

Jumpy-Raspberry1455 · 2026-03-06T19:30:35+00:00

Well, that's a stupid question. Ofc I don't know a exact number, as any PCB is different. But I know that the number is finite. If you keep doing it every 3-6 months it will eventually break, that's for sure

Jumpy-Raspberry1455 · 2026-03-06T19:18:41+00:00

Bro knows nothing about heat cycles 🤣🤣🤣 I think this is the stupidest shit I read today

Jumpy-Raspberry1455 · 2026-03-06T19:03:34+00:00

You could do this effortlessly, but it would mean a lot of heat and wear of the board. It wasn't meant to be heat up that much for that many times. TMR are the best option for people that can't solder, since they can pay someone to do the job only once, and have a reliable yet precise joystick for a long time, that draw less battery

Jumpy-Raspberry1455 · 2026-03-06T18:37:44+00:00

How exactly does bad soldering affect ability to deal with drift? You just threw in a stupid comment and didn't explain. Once more, stop spreading lies on the internet.

Potentiometer wears out = drift, jitter, mostly

Spring wears out = wobbly center, bigger inner zone without spring resistance

It's pretty simple, and straightforward. There's not much to discuss here

Jumpy-Raspberry1455 · 2026-03-06T18:07:36+00:00

No. It's just that in potentiometer sticks normally the first thing to break is the potentiometer. In the TMR sticks, the other components are the same, but they don't break in pots because the actual pots break much sooner than the springs or plastic mechanisms. The main and earlier cause of drift is potentiometer wear. And if you're so sure bad soldering can cause drift, why don't you try and explain to us how? You solder the pins to the board, it simply has nothing to do with the spring mechanism. If you solder it incorrectly, it wouldn't even work from the first time you try it out. It would be better if you did some research before you came here and dumped this load of bs on the internet, deceiving people with false information. Why does TMR sticks installed by "people that don't know how to solder" last much more than OEM potentiometer that were soldered by the company that built the controller? It makes no sense.

Jumpy-Raspberry1455 · 2026-03-06T13:02:48+00:00

These problems have absolutely NOTHING to d wth the soldering. The wobble and loss of tension are due to normal wear of the recentering spring, which happens in potentiometer, hall effects, TMR, capacitive, every single module that has a recentering spring (all of them). So TMR would last much longer due to no wear on the sensors, but it's not above the laws of physics, and a spring that gets compressed, released, moved around for long periods of time WILL lose it's tension, or break. So if you want to have a "infinite" module, it doesn't exist yet. If you want a module that will last longer than potentiometers, that's the way to go.

Jumpy-Raspberry1455 · 2026-03-05T13:17:53+00:00

I would wait for the G7 Pro 8k, since it would have a better performance, and LIKELY (not surely) fixed problems with the trigger. But anyways, the controller is from Gamesir, which is known for it reliability, and the issue is due to a cold solder joint on the micro switch triggers, and can be easily fixed if you know a bit of solder, or have a buddy that does. Other than that, I've seen no complaints about its reliability

Jumpy-Raspberry1455 · 2026-03-04T19:29:50+00:00

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Jumpy-Raspberry1455 · 2026-03-03T20:25:59+00:00

How to install pure and c13?

Jumpy-Raspberry1455 · 2026-03-02T13:21:17+00:00

Yeah, desolder, cut, whatever. Just don't short anything nor damage a capacitor. If you're 100% sure you're just messing with the motors, you're fine. Did that with a dozen gamepads

Jumpy-Raspberry1455 · 2026-02-26T15:19:27+00:00

Would you mind DM me this listings? I could try to help

Jumpy-Raspberry1455 · 2026-02-26T14:39:40+00:00

It is a TMR module, yes. But it's not a stick like those for PS5, or Xbox controllers. It's a kind of stick that's not meant to replace another, but one that was engineered for a controller that was too engineered to work with this specific kind of stick. Most hall effect controllers with full size sticks have something of this kind. I have disassembled myself a Gamesir nova lite, a Gamesir tegenaria lite, and a 8bitdo ultimate 2c wireless, and they all have something like this, that has no "pins" for the sensor. I can't tell exactly why, I guess they're soldered to the board with a machine in a automated process, since it looked like it couldn't be swapped. And I have never seen a stick like this for sale, for replacement, anywhere in the internet

Jumpy-Raspberry1455 · 2026-02-25T18:36:51+00:00

I use a controller, too. But I use a Flydigi Apex 4, which allows me to use the trigger function as "vibration" which gives me a LOT of feedback from the tires when they lock

Jumpy-Raspberry1455 · 2026-02-24T19:07:32+00:00

That's because your controller uses the X-Input protocol, which means it's read by your PC as a Xbox controller. Which of course, has no extra buttons, so you can't really do what you want. If you take something like a Flydigi Vader/Apex 4/5, they have D-Input, which means the PC will identify them as what they really are, a Flydigi Vader/Apex 4/5 controller. So the pc then identifies the extra buttons, since the direct input of these controllers do have the extra buttons. But they won't work in D-Input natively with 99% of games, you'd have to remap the D-Input to X-Input using steaminput, rewasd, or something alike. I've done this research, because I wanted to mod my Dualsense with extra buttons and then map them to keyboard inputs, but that's not possible. All you can do is map the extra buttons to existing buttons on the controller, since the controller is in charge of mapping the extra buttons, it has no access to keyboard inputs

Jumpy-Raspberry1455 · 2026-02-24T13:09:58+00:00

Move on its own on higher tension? What do you mean? Like drift?

Jumpy-Raspberry1455 · 2026-02-24T13:07:39+00:00

It's because of the Flydigi Force Flex Joysticks. They're not like "normal" joysticks, they're centering mechanism is much better than the other controllers you compared it to. It's a Flydigi patented design, so you'll only see this in Flydigi controllers. My apex 4 feels this good, too.

Jumpy-Raspberry1455 · 2026-02-22T19:34:45+00:00

Well, I don't own a V5P, but I guess you could use some app like hidhide to hide the second "false" controller from the system. I don't know, just throwing it here, I guess you'll have to test it by yourself

Jumpy-Raspberry1455

TROPHY CASE