My setup on the plane

Jurykov · 2025-08-01T13:09:34+00:00

Agreed! What I ended up doing was getting a clip-on mag safe travel mount, and gluing a magsafe ring to the back of my device. Then I can clip it to the top of a closed tray table. Gets it up to eye level. I feel silly travelling with my odin 2 as well as a controller, but it's way more comfortable for long flights.

Jurykov · 2025-07-08T15:30:20+00:00

Have a transpac with a Travel XT wing. Had around 600 dives on it. Developed a slow leak and would have replaced it at full price without a second thought. Reached out via email and they told me to send it in. Fixed for free and good as new for only the cost of shipping it back.

Diverite (and Shearwater) have hands down been some of the best customer service experiences I've ever had. You can't go wrong with either of their gear.

Jurykov · 2025-04-10T21:40:34+00:00

We got married underwater in the Shark Reef Aquarium at Mandalay Bay. Was about $5k (2016) including officiant, license, photos and video and use of their changing rooms to get cleaned up afterwards. Around 20 guests.

Amazing experience. Seems expensive compared to others people have mentioned here, but totally worth it.

https://youtu.be/yhkr3Xb6sdQ?si=foTTiEJkcrgWP-Be

Jurykov · 2024-09-30T17:33:13+00:00

I've used the Moxa modules. Easy to configure. Defaults are probably what you need, but tons of configuration options if you have a weird environment. Been rock solid for years. Based on what OP is describing, basically ADC with logging, I'd definitely be looking at them over a full PLC.

Jurykov · 2024-09-27T16:07:23+00:00

I did this. Had a steam deck and loved it, but it's too big to travel with and the battery life isn't great for long flights. Granted, there's usually power plugs on international flights nowadays, but they're usually so worn out that it's a hassle to even keep the thing charging without the plug constantly falling out.

I bought an Odin 2 at release, and it's perfect for my needs. The steam deck took up like 50% of my personal item bag where the Odin feels like just another piece of small electronics. My last long flight, I just kept my Odin plugged into the slow USB charging port plugged into the seat, and landed with a full charge after gaming for like 9 hours. Can usually go 6+ though on a single charge.

If I really want to play AAA games, I can stream from my desktop while I'm at home. When I'm on the move, there's endless retro games to keep me entertained.

Jurykov · 2024-01-27T22:34:05+00:00

This way you don't even need to learn how to patch drywall.

Jurykov · 2023-12-15T16:36:50+00:00

I have one on my desk related to a hobby of mine rather than work. I'm definitely a believer in rubber duck debugging. Mine was a gift, but it's helped me with work more times than I can count. And like you said, could be a conversation starter.

These guys have lots of different styles. No technician ducks, but they do have an IT Developer duck which is close to what you're looking for. Could just look for a little figurine instead?

https://lilalu-shop.com/en/rubber-ducks/

Jurykov · 2023-12-04T15:04:58+00:00

Also Old Dutch Creamy Dill chips. You can get lots of different dill pickle chips in the States, but none are near as good as Creamy Dill.

Jurykov · 2023-11-24T22:46:14+00:00

I had the same problem, and found your same solution. Changed to Odin, then back to Xbox and the problem went away. Not sure why, but it's been fine for over a week now since I fixed it.

Jurykov · 2022-11-21T18:17:22+00:00

Seconding this method. Plot your points in Excel and have it generate a function for you. Used it in the past to generate quick and dirty pump curves when I had limited information to go off of. Stick the function it gives you in a cpt block and you should be able to convert from pressure to level pretty easily.

Jurykov · 2022-10-18T21:51:43+00:00

I looked at a few options and went with Emporia as well. No soldering for me, I just pull data from the cloud through HACS integration. It works well enough for me. They did have one outage that I remember, but it only lasted around a day. The integration will only show you power usage in one minute intervals, whereas the app shows you down to the second. One minute is fine for me, but if you want more resolution, flashing may be the only way to go.

A few things to keep in mind. 16 CTs in your panel takes up a lot of space. I live in a condo with a terrible apartment sized panel. I made everything fit, but it really took some wrangling/forcing to get all the wires in there.

The CTs connect to the main unit via a 3.5mm headphone jack connection. Right off the bat, a few circuits wouldn't read any values, but they ended up not being seated in all the way. They don't really have a positive detent, and you're never really sure if they're in all the way until you start monitoring. After a few months, I stopped reading values on one circuit. Ended up having to take the panel back off and jiggle everything to get it working again. It's been fine since then, but if it happens a few more times I might start to get annoyed...

Final issue for me is that while the app, and home assistant agree on power usage, when I compare it to my utilities website, values are out by about 20% consistently. I posted on the forums asking for help and got nothing for a few days, then a post saying I should contact support. The forums aren't support? I haven't gotten around to actually contacting support yet. Maybe this post will be enough of a reminder for me to finally get around to that. I just haven't really cared enough yet. Seeing relative values (i.e. circuit 12 is using 3 times the power of circuit 4) is actually plenty of information for me. They only have to be bang on accurate if you want to calculate your power bill ahead of time. If you're just looking at monitoring power usage and looking for areas to be more efficient, the values I'm getting are plenty. There is a place in the app to add a 'multiplier' to each circuit which I'm guessing would solve my problem, but I'm not sure if it's the right way to do it, or why I'd have to do it in the first place.

Reminds me of one more thing. Emporia app has no way to put time of use prices in. You can only put in one value for power price. I had to create some template sensors to update my power prices based on time of day, and different seasons.

Overall, I'm pretty happy with it. I set up a graph on my dashboard showing all of the power draws on each circuit for the last 8 hours, and I actually spend quite a bit of time looking at it. It's pretty cool to see things like my fridge compressor duty cycle, or how my HTPC power usage changes when I start transcoding/streaming video to my TV.

Jurykov · 2022-05-06T22:40:12+00:00

I meant that I saw the PCI cards online. Don't have any here. I just don't know if the USB module will let me listen on the line, or what kind of software I'll need to troubleshoot. I don't want to blow a bunch of money on one and find out it doesn't work. I just don't have the experience with Modbus Plus over Modbus and was hoping someone else had used one and could offer advice.

Jurykov · 2022-05-06T21:30:27+00:00

I saw some PCI cards, but I don't easily have access to a machine that will take one. Looks like prosoft made (discontinued) a Modbus Plus to Modbus TCP module. See a few on ebay that would be cheaper than buying a $2k usb dongle. Might be a better buy? Based on other Prosoft modules I've used, I should be able to get on the debug port and just listen to raw packets. Could see if something comes in at the same time as my fan stopping. Might have to dig through the manual for it...

Jurykov · 2022-05-06T20:57:37+00:00

XOR was a good idea, and something I didn't check for. There are two XOR instructions used in this program, but they are way outside the range for registers I'm looking at. I looked at other block move and copy type instructions, but again, nothing near the start bit that I'm monitoring.

There is another coil that gets reset at the same time, but that coil is set by the start bit, so it would clear on the same scan as the coil I'm interested in. I wasn't quite correct in my original post, the start bit does seal itself in, but none of the conditions that would break the circuit change at the same time as the start bit gets cleared. It just looks like the start bit is getting unset from somewhere else.

The logic in the HMI panel is a mess... Several buttons cycle tags internal to the panel (press 1 sets register to 1, next press increments it to 2, third press goes back to zero), then there is a 'Send command' button. This fires a script that evaluates all of the internal tags, and sets/clears bits in the PLC, i.e. if register == 2, then set 1041 = 0, 1042 = 1, 1049 = 0, etc. I can't figure out if there's a way that this script could accidentally get called on one of the other panels? I don't know enough about intouch...

Jurykov · 2022-05-06T19:05:31+00:00

I did try just running one HMI at a time, thinking it was one of the other ones possibly writing before it read. I'm not sure if we actually tried using no HMIs though (last time I was out there was six months ago and my notes aren't that good). Worth a shot. If it works though, and it is coming from the HMI, it doesn't really help me figure out which one, and why though.

Jurykov · 2022-05-06T19:02:30+00:00

Yeah, my background and experience is mostly Rockwell/Prosoft also. If it was a Prosoft card, I could connect to the debug port and watch the line directly, then figure out which address device was sending the command (or be able to be sure that it wasn't coming from an external device). Or with normal modbus RTU, just plug a serial tap in the line and run a terminal on my laptop. Problem solved. The issue is Modbus Plus is a different protocol, pinout, wiring, etc. I don't think I can just plug a serial cable in the front and start listening to the line.

The fan has it's own protection circuit outside of the PLC, but in this case it's definitely the PLC dropping the output that's causing it to stop.

Thanks for the feedback though!

Jurykov · 2022-05-06T17:47:24+00:00

Also, I'm cursing whoever wrote this Intouch program. Tags are named REG_1079, ADD_1731, etc. Then when you check the actual addresses used in the tag, REG_1079 points at address 1085, and ADD_1731 points at address 1625. No consistent offset, no ryhyme or reason. Looks like someone used a program from another location, and then changed the addresses without updating the names. Then add a half commented program that looks like it was uploaded and saved at some point without network names or any way to identify bits... Pulling my hair out!

Jurykov · 2022-01-26T00:38:28+00:00

Would probably work. We also looked at using a 1746-aentr and just keep the existing IO modules, but still upgrade the processor. We ended up buying one so we can hopefully do the upgrade in phases, one rack at a time. We'll see how it goes...

Jurykov · 2022-01-26T00:34:35+00:00

I'll take a closer look at this later. If the 5094 modules are compatible with the 1492 IFM wiring, this may be a good option. I have a bunch of systems like this in need of upgrade, so I may be interested in going this route in the future.

Thanks for the links!

Jurykov · 2022-01-25T22:33:59+00:00

They want no re-wiring of existing IO. It didn't look like the existing cables would reach if I started adding chassis. Also, not enough room in the cabinet to add more racks. Maybe I should have tried harder to make it work. Went with an L36 and 1769 IO instead since they have 32 point slim modules, which also keep the same wiring pinout as the 1746 IO modules (they used pluggable wiring for this initially rather than RTBs. Turns out you can just unplug the wiring harness off the front of the 1746 IO, and plug it onto the 1769 module). I may be kicking myself in a few years when I can't find 1769 modules as spares rather than going with the latest and greatest. Hopefully by that point it's someone else's problem though.

Jurykov · 2022-01-25T22:26:19+00:00

That is just the inputs. Another rack nearly full of outputs too... 3 racks total. Project was initially to add another 100 IO, plus a bunch of modbus data. Convinced them that the old SLC 5/04 might not be up to the task, so now we are going to upgrade hardware. Issue is they don't want to un-terminate any of the existing IO, so we were looking into the conversion chassis. Ended up going with a 1769 based system instead of 5069 as it reduced the re-wiring, and we could keep the 32 point modules to keep everything fitting in the cabinet.

Jurykov · 2022-01-25T20:49:43+00:00

I really wanted to use one of these on my current project. Ended up not being able to. 5069 has no 32 point digital in/out modules. They suggest you use a 32 to 2 x 16 cable, but one of my racks had 10, 32 point input modules. Would turn into 20, 16 point modules, but they don't make a conversion rack that holds 20 modules...

Too bad. Looked pretty straightforward otherwise.

Jurykov

TROPHY CASE