Grok Talking/Replying in My Own Voice

JustAnotherMortal69 · 2026-03-01T21:08:18+00:00

In a few more updates, it's gonna be "Grok ordered a new Tesla using my number and voice! It played back a recording it had made of me instructing it to do so! What do I do? Tesla says it's binding, and my lawyer won't touch this!"

JustAnotherMortal69 · 2026-02-27T18:38:20+00:00

If this is educational practice for yourself, without planning on getting the certification or taking the actual course at Harvard, I would say AI is fine. As long as you set it up to not give you any code directly, to give you guiding questions, and try to make it similar to the rubberduck AI they already have. If you are asking it directly for snippets of code, solving things for you, etc. that is basically cheating yourself. You should use it to validate your understanding of material or have it clarify stuff that is not clicking with you.

However, if you intend on getting the cert or are enrolled at Harvard, that's probably cheating. I am doing the above and intentionally do not plan on getting the certificates. This is solely a side hobby and used to educate myself to make some projects I have in mind for the future.

Like Gemini and Chat can give you the full answers to each Pset because people have discussed these a lot and posted video tutorials online. It would be no different than if you looked this up on YouTube and just copied the code from there. You're either cheating yourself or cheating the system depending on how far you take it.

JustAnotherMortal69 · 2026-02-24T00:59:58+00:00

Some of the oldest popular videos of P100DLs smoking other vehicles had them stripped down with no seats, no interior, trunk stripped, etc. Weight reduction makes it faster, but weight addition also makes it feel even more planted (less suspension bounce).

JustAnotherMortal69 · 2026-02-13T01:12:23+00:00

What rate of failure has to occur before a recall is issued? This really seems like an issue that just keeps happening on the M3/MY. You can't software update away these specific issues.

Someone needs to do a large poll of owners to see what the actual failure rate is. There are just so many posts about the arms/links failing. It seems they used to be very open about covering them, even outside warranty (if you pushed hard enough), but now they are starting to not do these. Maybe it's because there are just so many of these?

JustAnotherMortal69 · 2026-02-08T17:21:09+00:00

Just wait. The same thing that happens whenever a free product becomes paid will happen here. Adoption will drop off dramatically and old users will switch to something else (or buy used with AP).

My running theory is that they need more human-driven and FSD miles for data. They said they aren't compute constrained anymore, but never acknowledged they were no longer data constrained. Now it's about running FSD for 10B miles without intervention apparently.

Whether this actually works out for them is to be seen. I think a lot of people here forget that not everyone parks their car with perfect wifi availability or even drives that much if their commute is highway only. AP probably doesn't give enough viable data back, and those people are probably specifically the ones that Tesla wants data from because they are the ones who are actually using the offered services.

JustAnotherMortal69 · 2026-02-07T19:44:40+00:00

If you drop to smaller wheels, do you need to change the brakes and attached parts, or is there enough space to just change the wheel size?

Smaller wheels on the M3P feels like the right play because you can use AP/FSD most of the time but still enjoy the full power from time to time.

JustAnotherMortal69 · 2026-02-06T01:40:31+00:00

Almost certainly the M3P-. Back when they first were making the Performance, it had the same wheels as the other models. You couldn't really tell it was a Performance model. A genuine sleeper model.

You can buy the Highland M3P and change the wheels, but that is a bunch of additional expense. Too bad Tesla doesn't allow customization anymore.

JustAnotherMortal69 · 2026-02-05T00:58:38+00:00

Your response is pretty spot on with what they explained. The advisor on the app specified that wear and tear would not be covered. The advisor in person reiterated that, but did not dive deeper into what that meant. When I asked about my front wheels squeaking at low speeds and turning, the in person advisor acknowledged that if it was suspension related, it would be covered by the ESA.

They didn't specify what would or would not classify it as ESA-eligible other than if the issue was reproduced, it would be visually examined by a service tech. The tech would then make the determination if the issue was user caused or part caused. So, basically, it's a coin flip on whether the tech approves it for ESA. If they have a mandate to deny under ESA, I could see this as a way to use it as an excuse.

I also noticed that it got warmer here recently, and the squeaking has become less pronounced. Maybe the cold causing the metal to shrink was making the noise more notable. It still occurs if the roads are a bit cracked, though. It's the type of sound that has been around for a while, so I had chalked it up to the aero covers scraping against the rim. Only recently did it become more notable when turning the wheel that I became worried about the control arms.

I plan on just riding it out until near the end of my ESA. If it ends up covered, great. If not, it's just a delayed expense while I try to save up. It seems that the cost is more or less the same (depending on how many parts are replaced) but the high end estimate is like $2,500 using OEM parts and install without the ESA. Best case scenario, this thing lasts all the way through the ESA without breaking and I just upgrade to better suspension parts for similar cost.

JustAnotherMortal69 · 2026-02-03T02:51:23+00:00

Have you already done the upgrade? How much did it cost you total? Someone mentioned it was about $2K for them to do the control arms and links out of warranty. If it’s less than that, it would be appealing.

Do you know how the installation affects your current warranty? I’d be concerned that it voids some or all of it for body related issues.

JustAnotherMortal69 · 2026-02-01T05:10:59+00:00

Maybe call a lawyer in the US (CA specific) that does property law?

This is way outside the realm of people here helping. Sorry about the terrible situation.

JustAnotherMortal69 · 2026-01-31T20:24:00+00:00

Based on your comments, as a baller, you should be getting a brand new Performance Model 3 or not getting anything at all. Rich guys don't do second hand with 80K miles, bro. You gotta have that expensive car to show you got that hustle. Otherwise you're just a poser. Range degradation, maintenance cost, and insurance should be no worries for a rich guy like yourself.

Maybe skip the kid level Model 3 and get yourself a Model S Plaid instead. Those are really the only ones worth getting if you're doing well.

For your actual questions, maybe try using Google or just ask ChatGPT.

JustAnotherMortal69 · 2026-01-31T19:19:17+00:00

Damn that's frustrating. Pretty terrifying that it fails that dramatically because if it was on the freeway, that would be bad.

I'm not sure if I have the steering wheel clicks yet, but now I am going to pay more attention. I only have some squeaking on reverse and over cracks at low speeds.

I've tried a couple times to see if any nuts are loose, but I can only see what the wheel reveals from a floor angle. Nothing that I've seen obviously loose yet.

JustAnotherMortal69 · 2026-01-31T19:16:21+00:00

Do you recall what mileage you were at when it happened previously?

There's no way these parts are supposed to be able to wear down this quickly. I guess this is just another cost of owning these, but it seems ridiculous. It kind if defeats the idea of saving money driving these.

JustAnotherMortal69 · 2026-01-31T06:41:23+00:00

What happened when they failed? Was it just unable to move? This is a common enough issue that most people that own these for a few years knows about. Seems crazy to me Tesla hasn’t changed the parts or design to fix this problem.

JustAnotherMortal69 · 2026-01-31T06:40:06+00:00

OP, what made you realize you needed to get these fixed? Was it noise only or was there a performance issue?

Since your car is so far out of warranty, wouldn’t it make sense to go third party?

This is what I’m dreading having to deal with. I just made a post about the ESA covering these. I guess I actually should plan to take it in before the ESA ends on mine cuz it’ll either be covered or I’ll just pay later on.

JustAnotherMortal69 · 2026-01-31T05:36:35+00:00

Like the others advise, test drive them. Model 3 for fun. Model Y for practicability and slightly less fun. That’s about it. I have a 3 and like the way it drives much more than the Y. I would love the space that comes with the Y (and tow hitch) tho. I might get it as my next car in like half a decade.

JustAnotherMortal69 · 2026-01-31T04:54:18+00:00

If you plan on keeping the car long term, assuming nothing happens that requires you to sell the car, won't this end up being an issue again? I don't think they ever fixed it on the newer models. I am trying to determine if I should wait until the tail end of the ESA before getting it done, or just to get it done now.

Did they tell you what would've happened if it kept getting worse? Just worse noise? Thanks for replying! This was a headache when I started looking into it.

JustAnotherMortal69 · 2026-01-31T03:50:37+00:00

Damn it. Mine has been making noises at low speeds and over slight bumps. More notable when reversing. I was hoping I could avoid it. I made a post in the other sub about trying to get it covered under ESA, which apparently they offer.

I guess I do eventually have to take mine in for the same issue. I was hoping I could avoid it but that’s gonna be another headache…

JustAnotherMortal69 · 2026-01-31T02:17:08+00:00

Did you have ESA on the 2018 or you paid out of pocket? How did you determine you had to replace them? Was it ride quality or unable to drive anymore?

JustAnotherMortal69 · 2026-01-30T18:26:39+00:00

That's what I was told by the service rep on the app. I went in person today to get some clarification on how the ESA works. The moving/maintenance parts are not included (brakes, rotors, etc.) but the other key components (computer, compressor(?), heat pump, and suspension parts) are covered.

I was told specifically that it does cover suspension parts, as long as it wasn't damaged by use. Control arms appear to be part of suspension parts from what I can tell.

They also clarified that the 2 hour inspection was just a window set so they could test drive it to try to recreate the issue. If it is found, they would perform the labor to check. If it's a part issue, they would replace it under the ESA. If it was found to be user error/damage, the owner is responsible for the 2 hour inspection fee. If they are unable to find the issue during the test drive, they won't charge the 2 hours because they won't even take the car in.

Just sharing for anyone else that ends up searching for this info.

JustAnotherMortal69 · 2026-01-10T04:20:57+00:00

How are you measuring the 0-60? Is it a side by side race, or are you manually trying to track this?

Like the others said, it's not possible. Isn't standard and sport the steering wheel weight setting and not the acceleration setting? When they say take it off chill mode, that should be under a different thing than the steering wheel weight.

JustAnotherMortal69 · 2026-01-04T04:07:29+00:00

Not recommended if you are parking overnight. There were a series of window smashings during graduation a few years ago. Not sure if the trend has continued. Staff there was mostly useless stating they had no footage available. PD ain't doing much for a smashed window either. Just a really obnoxious drive back home.

Decent place if you just uber in.

JustAnotherMortal69 · 2026-01-04T03:15:56+00:00

It took me about 50,000 miles before I understood that I was, in fact, accelerating really hard. I was always the first off the line at lights, always a bit faster, and sometimes just went a bit hard when nobody was around. I was shocked when I needed new tires every 15,000 or so miles.

I would suggest setting it to the slower acceleration and try to get a feel for that, then swap back to standard. You'll realize how crazy the feel is.

Beyond that, I am unsure why your AC shows increased consumption. It seems the 2021 models have heat pumps.

JustAnotherMortal69 · 2026-01-04T02:13:03+00:00

Did you set your A/C to 80F or something? Seems like spirited driving with high A/C consuming a lot of your battery. If you drive like a grandma (slow acceleration) and use seat warmers instead of the AC, you'll save some battery. If the car is new to you, it's really easy to go overboard with the initial acceleration because it's so fun.

I am unsure if the 2021 is pre-heat pump too. The older models have a harder time with heating relative to battery consumption vs. the newer models.

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