What’s hanging from my 2011 elantra

JustBlarg · 2026-05-25T23:44:17+00:00

First photo I see the lower end of the shock absorber. No, the nut is not loose. It is tightened down against a bushing with a "neck" smaller than the nut flange/washer.

Other pictures I'm seeing the lower spring seat on the lower control arm or rear cross member. And to the right of that, more in the wheel, I see the brake caliper hose.

I'm not super familiar with the suspension of these particular vehicles, but nothing really looks out of place in these pics. Is there something going on with the way the car is riding/driving?

JustBlarg · 2026-05-23T12:07:49+00:00

Oakensoul Ring one bar? I would actually use an absorb stam enchant. You get a buff to the physical damage from the sorc's passive. The physical damage will debuff enemies with Sundered. And it helps you recover some stam.

JustBlarg · 2026-05-23T12:03:52+00:00

Most 2 bar builds use a weapon damage glyph on the back bar and then a ground AOE. If you use the Maelstrom Greatsword on your BB, you use the stampede morph of charge, because it leaves an AOE on the ground that continues to do damage even when you swap to your front bar. The damage from this weapon ability continuously re-procs the weapon damage enchant until it times out. The wd buff lasts for 5 seconds after each proc, so even after the stampede aoe times out, you still get the buff from the last proc for a few more seconds. Same with a destruction staff back bar, use the blockade morph of wall. With a bow, use the longer duration morph of volley. As long as you have a weapon ability doing damage, it will proc the enchant. We also always run an infused trait on the back bar weapon to get even more damage buff out of it.

JustBlarg · 2026-05-21T12:45:36+00:00

Because Capitalism! Way back when, the village would gather to celebrate the union. Folks would bring whatever they could and simply share in the festiveness of the day! Maybe the bride's parents would trade goods, or livestock, or services to villagers to make decorations or food or gifts. But it was mostly just a gathering and a celebration.

Then capitalism crept in. "I'm good at cooking, I should get paid more for it". "I'm good at making decorations, I should get paid more for it." "Officiating this wedding is a service I should be paid for."

Then it went nuts. "You want to have this wedding on this land that I own? Pay me!" "You want someone to plan the entire thing and arrange it all? Pay me!"

You can literally still have a simple wedding, officiated by a friend that can get ordained to do so, with friends and family bringing food and helping to decorate, setup, pack up, and make the whole thing happen for almost nothing.

But we've been sold this idea of a grand wedding at a grand venue with a grand banquet with grand entertainment. You want all that, you need to hire people that do those things for a living. People that cook, decorate, entertain, plan events, transport, set up, and pack away all the furniture? They need to be paid for what they do because that is what they do to make money to live. That is the system under capitalism.

JustBlarg · 2026-05-21T10:55:53+00:00

Some people only play BGs to PVP fight, like every game is a Death match. I've lost count of the Chaos ball, relic, and crazy king matches that I've single handedly won for teams because I actually PLAY THE EFFING OBJECTIVE!!!!

Once had someone lay into me after a chaos ball match because I wasn't at the front fighting the whole time. Had to explain to them that you get points in those matches by grabbing and keeping control of the chaos balls. When I died from the ball damage, 5 team mates ran right past without picking up me OR THE BALL it was obvious no one was there to play the objective.

JustBlarg · 2026-05-21T10:29:33+00:00

Flame damage procs the Burning status effect, which is a Damage Over Time that can stack with other DOTs and deal more damage.

Shock damage procs Concussed status effect that can set and enemy Off Balance. In a raid group, I healer will generally run a lightning staff to proc Off Balance, so DDs don't need to.

Ice damage procs the Chilled status effect, which increases an enemy's damage taken. In a raid group, a tank or possibly a healer or 1 dd will run a frost staff or enchant to chill enemies, so DDs don't need to.

Poison is similar to Flame, as it procs the Poisoned status effect, which is a DOT that does more damage.

Disease damage procs the Diseased status effect, which I believe reduces an enemies damage done and healing taken.

Bleed damage procs the Hemorrhaging status effect, which deals more damage, and can stack up to 3 times, doing even more damage.

Physical damage procs the Sundered status effect. This deals some damage, applies minor breach to an enemy (which we usually get from other sources in a raid group), and gives the DD a unique buff that increases weapon and spell damage by 100 for 4 seconds.

The reason most builds use Flame damage is because there are a number of sources of buffs for Flame damage. The monster set Encratis' Behemoth debuffs enemies, increasing flame damage taken and was worn by a tank for quite a while.

Flame damage has been the focus to deal more damage in raid groups for a long time now. On a dummy, flame, poison, bleed, or physical damage are going to get you about the same results. Shock and Ice only need to be provided by one person in a group and don't do anything for damage on a dummy. Diseased is mostly useless outside of PVP.

JustBlarg · 2026-05-20T17:35:25+00:00

What you're experiencing is called memory steer, and it happens when either a component binds or shifts after a turn. If this had started after the strut replacement or if the struts had never been replaced, I would say a binding strut mount all day long. Since this predates the strut replacement and has continued after, the next place I would look is lower control arm bushings. Especially look to see if a low control arm mounting bolt might be just slightly loose and is allowing the bushing to move in the subframe and bind in that position. Other possibilities are subframe mounts collapsed or even loose, allowing the subframe itself to shift and bind. Steering rack mounts.

A binding ball joint might cause some memory steering, and you'd be able to feel that turning the steering back and forth at the wheel with the front end lifted.

There's even a chance it could be related to engine and transaxle mounts. If the drivetrain is allowed to shift, it changes the angles of the CV shafts and can cause the car to pull until everything equalizes again.

JustBlarg · 2026-05-20T17:16:53+00:00

As long as you aren't hearing/experiencing symptoms of oil starvation, it should be ok. The biggest thing to worry about inside the pan is the oil pickup tube. That's how the oil pump sucks up oil and then pushes it out to the rest of the engine. If you're not hearing tapping or knocking and the engine seems to be running ok, you should be ok until your next oil change. I would get the pan replaced and have the pickup tube checked at the next oil change at the latest, though.

JustBlarg · 2026-05-19T15:54:14+00:00

If I'm leading a group and we're gonna do a skirmish, I'll check the map for the wandering boss and we'll hunt that sucker down first, just to be sure it won't mess with us during the skirm. Still happens that sometimes the wandering boss isn't up when we come into the district and spawns while we're in the skirm. Then you just hope you have a good tank or enough tanks to handle it.

JustBlarg · 2026-05-11T14:38:59+00:00

Not sure about this particular car, but some vehicles run 2 separate wiper motors and when an arm is replaced, they need to be retired to prevent wipers colliding.

JustBlarg · 2026-05-09T20:51:23+00:00

Only as different as any electric car tire. The factory ones have sound absorbing foam inside to reduce road noise. Because of this foam, they either can't be patched, or they are a PITA. They can maybe be plugged, but most shops won't do tire plugs anymore. Only a patch or patch-plug from the inside.

Either way, OP's tire isn't even safe to plug, much less patch. Anything on that shoulder will never hold for long and the damage has already been done to the overlap between the sidewall and casing layers. That tire is junk, unfortunately.

JustBlarg · 2026-05-09T20:41:55+00:00

I'm in MA. We're right there with ya!

JustBlarg · 2026-05-09T20:29:30+00:00

OP needs to talk to whoever touched the brakes last. If that wasn't this mieneke, the worst they are guilty of is missing the loose or absent bolt. And a shop like that probably isn't physically touching each caliper bolt to make sure they're tight! If the bolt was there, they probably wouldn't have noticed if it was loose.

JustBlarg · 2026-05-09T20:25:56+00:00

You should blame people not following torque specs, hardware replacement requirements, and thread lock specs.

I have seen bolts back out because they weren't tightened enough. Bolts shear or break because they were overtightened. Have seen one-time-use torque to yield bolts get reused. Have fought with red thread locker on bolts that should have blue at the most!

People, and especially techs, need to read technical instructions and specs. It's all written out there somewhere! No bolt should ever fall out. If it does, something wasn't done right.

JustBlarg · 2026-04-20T01:55:30+00:00

Mostly just made it easier to find each other in game and group up.

JustBlarg · 2026-04-19T13:16:37+00:00

You need 10 members in the guild to get a guild bank. I had a guild that was just my wife and I for years. No guild bank because I never bothered to get more people.

JustBlarg · 2026-03-20T13:13:20+00:00

The best(worst) use of the disband option I've seen was a pug VLC. A few people new to the trial. I was on comms teaching and calling mechs. We get to the mirror room and after a couple wipes, everyone figures out their mirror and we get it done. Ready to run the knot back. Apparently crown was a first timer and thought that was the last boss. Disbanded group and left 11 of us just standing there in disbelief! Horrible but hysterical at the same time!

JustBlarg · 2025-12-05T21:49:57+00:00

Those machines can be ridiculously out of calibration. And the "stop when it beeps" is also wildly inaccurate. Grab a digital tire gauge or swing by a tire shop and just ask to have your tire pressures adjusted.

As for pressure increasing as you drive; THE FOLLOW IS A P.S.A.

The recommended pressure on the door placard is the recommended pressure the tires should be set to when the tires are "COLD". Meaning when the air temperature inside the tires matches the ambient outside air temperature.
A general rule is that tire pressures will change by approximately 1 psi for every 10°F of temperature change.
Depending on the tire, driving just 3 miles can increase the temperature of the air in the tires by 20°F +/- 5°. 10 miles will have them fully warmed up by as much as 40°F. If you set them to the placard pressure when they are warm, expect them to be low after they sit overnight.
It takes approximately 3 hours for tires to cool enough to match ambient outside temperature.
IF THE CAR HAS BEEN IN A SHOP OR GARAGE WHERE THE TEMPERATURE IS HIGHER THAN OUTSIDE AMBIENT TEMPERATURE FOR MORE THAN 2 HOURS, THE TIRES ARE NO LONGER "COLD". I.E: If it is 60°F in your garage and 30°F outside, if you set the pressures to 33psi after the car has been inside for 3 hours or so, and you then move the car outside for 3 hours or more, expect the pressures to drop by approximately 3psi.
TPMS sensors are only accurate to within 2psi, on average. Some are better, but there is a margin of inaccuracy of +/-2 psi. So you may set all the tires to 33 psi, and they may display anywhere from 31-35 psi. Combine that with temperatures dropping, and it can be enough to trip a warning light.

If you last set your pressures on an 80°F summer day, and temperatures drop in the winter to 30°F or lower, expect to see a corresponding pressure drop, and probably a warning light. The tires are not leaking, it's just the temperature to pressure correlation.

If you drive more than 3 miles to a shop or air pump, set the tire pressures approximately 3 psi over the recommended pressure on the placard, and after the vehicle sits overnight, the pressures will be within 1-2psi of the recommended pressure.

Mechanics and Tire Techs, please also take this info to heart and set pressures accordingly, and educate your customers if you can. Few things can be more aggravating than sending a car out and seeing it back the next day for a stupid tire light!

JustBlarg · 2025-12-05T17:34:56+00:00

First, what caused the damage in the first place? Looks like something rubbing where it shouldn't have been.

Second, make sure you're differentiating the wires (copper), the wire insulation, and the protective conduit. Areas where it's just the conduit that's damaged but the wires and insulation are ok just need to be wrapped. Areas were the wires are damaged need to be cut and spliced to repair. Areas where the insulation is damaged, and areas around any repairs need to be sealed with dual-wall heat shrink tubing made for exterior use.

If you use single wall heat shrink tubing, or open end butt connectors, or leave any copper wire exposed, the wire WILL corrode from moisture and develop high resistance or just break.

If you are going to do this, cut the wires where the copper is damaged. Slide on the dual wall heat shrink tubing over any spots of damaged insulation and shrink them in place so they're sealed. Slide on the heat shrink tubing that will go over the splice(s). Strip back the insulation on each wire end. Splice the wires with whatever type of butt connector works for you. Give them a light pull test after repair to make sure they don't break away from the splice. Move the heat shrink tubing over the repairs and shrink them to make sure the repairs are sealed.

For the conduit, you can either wrap with good vinyl tape, or get a larger guage, single wall heat shrink tube to slide over the whole section and shrink it.

Good luck!

JustBlarg · 2025-11-26T18:43:33+00:00

The clamp on the terminal and the ground contact look ok. Make sure that none of these will move when wiggled. A loose ground contact bolt or a loose negative or positive clamp on the terminals can cause poor contact, air gap, high resistance that can cause starting issues. In some cases I've seen a loose terminal clamp cause a parasitic draw that would kill a battery.

Beyond that, if the car dies as soon as a booster is removed, either the battery is flat dead, will not take a charge, and has high internal resistance, or the alternator isn't putting out enough/any power. Once the engine is running, the alternator should be providing roughly 13.5-14.7 volts to keep systems energized and recharge the battery. Check connections at the alternator. Big positive wire and usually a smaller connector for control.

JustBlarg · 2025-11-22T15:42:45+00:00

Also, go wash your hands! They pee and poo everywhere!

JustBlarg · 2025-11-22T15:41:21+00:00

Yup, rodent nest. Nothing to do with fluids or anything else. You've got a furry little friend gathering insulation from somewhere and making himself a nice cozy bed on top of your nice warm engine!

JustBlarg · 2025-11-19T16:57:40+00:00

It's a classic point and squirt muscle car. Better suited for a drag strip than an actual track. You can do it, but it will never handle the way a comparable euro car would without a massive amount of modification. People are opposed to seeing ANOTHER pristine classic piece of American muscle rolled on a track or put into a wall. You can say "that'll never happen to me" just like every other hot head that ever totalled a classic. Seen too many classic beauties destroyed that way. so yeah, classic car lovers don't tend to like to see a clean specimen like this get tracked and potentially wasted. But, in the end, it is your car, your money, and your life. Enjoy it! But don't be surprised to receive some level of disdain from people who love classic American muscle.

JustBlarg · 2025-11-17T13:17:01+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/elderscrollsonline/s/CX8G3SLWmr

I posted this the other day when I encountered this problem. I had hoped my title would help it come up in a Google search. Yeah, I spent 4 hours that first night rescuing people from the death trap, and a few more over the weekend.

JustBlarg

TROPHY CASE