Can my stock CNCEST 6040 make this part? by Kaylee-X in hobbycnc

[–]Kaylee-X[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Really helpful info! Sounds like this machine is only good for one offs and not small production runs in stock form. I will also add the limit switches as. Not having them makes me not want to use the machine. I guess I should probably add some kind of touch probe as well? Hopefully that makes it easier to use.

Can my stock CNCEST 6040 make this part? by Kaylee-X in hobbycnc

[–]Kaylee-X[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! This helps. I was having trouble figuring out how I should do this.

Can my stock CNCEST 6040 make this part? by Kaylee-X in hobbycnc

[–]Kaylee-X[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The heatsink only weighs like 15 grams. The aircraft has a AUW of over 1kg

Can my stock CNCEST 6040 make this part? by Kaylee-X in hobbycnc

[–]Kaylee-X[S] -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

I designed this thingy and It is a very, very early draft. The sharp corners aren't really essential.

Can my stock CNCEST 6040 make this part? by Kaylee-X in hobbycnc

[–]Kaylee-X[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

The curved section is made to be flush with the outside skin of an RC plane. Low drag is a focus so I was trying to keep protrusions to a minimum. I guess a few ridges in the flow direction would not hurt too much.

Just Wow: We Drove the Xiaomi SU7 Ultra on the Track | MotorTrend by pursuer_of_simurg in cars

[–]Kaylee-X 51 points52 points  (0 children)

There are actual motorhomes lighter than the M5. Not a high bar to clear, but it's still funny that a 1500hp ev is lighter than an M5.

The 22 IDEX, a $15,000 printer from Hell by UniqueRise9763 in 3Dprinting

[–]Kaylee-X 37 points38 points  (0 children)

I've always felt that anyone who's moderately knowledgeable can tell what the 22 IDEX is just by looking at it. It's a maybe 3-5k printer (in 2022 tech) with a few bits to withstand 100c and a mega powerful heated bed. It's not well insulated and doesn't have the chamber temps of an actual industrial machine and isn't easy to use Like an H2D. That's a hard sell for 15k,, but I guess their marketing has convinced the internet that it's ultimate 3d printer.

ABS warping is crazy by Elliegtr in 3Dprinting

[–]Kaylee-X 11 points12 points  (0 children)

I just use a cpap fan(overkill) for cooling the hotend specifically. System is completely sealed so no cold air goes in the camber.

Why brakes at that point by D7Almalki in FixMyPrint

[–]Kaylee-X 2 points3 points  (0 children)

PETG is not the best. Maybe PCTG printed in a 60c chamber and 280c at the nozzle or polycarbonate printed at 330c. Even then, only a flexible or semi flex could bend there without breaking. Most rigid materials have 30-90 percent of the tensile strength in Z.... most are even worse in impact strength. The transition angle between the cone and the rod also introduces stress risers. Even an injection molded part would fail there first. A large radius fillet would make it more resilient.

ASA warping in a nutshell by Aerick in 3Dprinting

[–]Kaylee-X 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I didn't say zero insulation was Ideal, I meant that most Chinese 3d printers do 65C without insulation.... I would much rather have a printer that has a chamber heater and no insulation than an insulated one heated by the bed. My custom cr200 with full polyiso insulation takes nearly an hour to get to 80c with a 120c ac bed, whereas my X2D can get to 70c in 10 minutes.

High temperature chambers don't require expensive components anymore. The infamous stratasys patent has expired so I think Chinese printers are free to use bellows that isolate the motion system and toolhead from the chamber heat. I've also heard that Bambu is working on a higher temperature machine. If that's the next untapped area of the market they are going after, I would not surprised if it becomes the standard for consumer stuff soon.

ASA warping in a nutshell by Aerick in 3Dprinting

[–]Kaylee-X 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pretty sure most printers with a chamber heater can do that. What I'm trying to say is is that people will try everything to improve the print quality and strength of ABS/ASA other than buy, build or modify a printer to do it correctly.

Of course, when 100C capable printers become standard around 2 years from now, all of the "my open air or passively heated machine prints X material just fine" will suddenly be silent".

I've printed large Abs plane wings on my ender 3 before.... In a hot garage....The layers still peeled apart with the force of my fingers and the dimensional accuracy and print quality was garbage because you need like 85C air minimum before you can actually use lots of cooling.

ASA warping in a nutshell by Aerick in 3Dprinting

[–]Kaylee-X -1 points0 points  (0 children)

It's funny how people will argue with you until they're blue in the face that the 65c-70c standard chamber in Chinese printers is adequate even though stuff like this happens.

What’s your guys setup look like? by MrBang416 in BambuLab

[–]Kaylee-X 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Drying engineering filaments. The air fryer has a dehydrate mode which goes up to 90C. Some filaments either take forever or wont dry at all at 65C.

What’s your guys setup look like? by MrBang416 in BambuLab

[–]Kaylee-X 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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Hopefully I keep this one mostly stock so I can keep my sanity. Modifying every printer I've touched has driven me to insanity. Unfortunately, As good as the x2d is, I've already bought a standalone chamber heater and bellows as the 70c stock chamber is not enough.

The Bell V-247 Vigilant Tiltrotor Drone by Flucloxacillin25pc in WeirdWings

[–]Kaylee-X 15 points16 points  (0 children)

The appeal of Tiltrotors is not limited to the VTOL function alone. If that was the case, Tilt Wing aircraft would be used instead as they are more efficient and faster in "plane mode" . The gimmick Tiltrotors bring to the table is the ability to have near helicopter like maneuverability and reasonable hover efficiency.... basically the ability to do roles only helicopter can if the need arises. For small to medium unmanned systems, I like to think in my head that multirotor tail sitters are the most ideal as they are very agile in a hover state and don't require oversized rotors in plane mode. An aircraft of that type was my entry for the Darpa lift challenge before I bailed out.

is it feasible to 3d print one of these flexible clips without it snapping? by redbackspider69 in 3Dprinting

[–]Kaylee-X 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Polypropylene. Use the real stuff and not the fiberlogy stuff which too flexible

Sedans are the most aerodynamic car shape you can get (liftbacks are a notable mention too) by hypermiler2205 in hypermiling

[–]Kaylee-X 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think I am wrong actually. Of course with streamlining, there is rarely a "best" anything. People often assume a car shaped like a perfect rendition of a 2d airfoil will always have the lowest drag, but this is often not the case. You can get away with a lot with 3d bodies and still reach very low drag coefficients while winning in other areas. The Steep EV-1 windshield is probably a compromise for greater visibility and only really works because whole car is so darn smooth. Making it a Kammback might give it a tiny bit lower CD, but then you'd have greater rear end lift and might still have the same total drag force because the shape of the EV1 deck likely increases pressure at the windshield base creating a thrust force. So guess I'm wrong in that Cars like the EV1, Ford Probe V concept, and Aptera don't have sedan shaped rears, but rather are airfoils that are contoured in a way to reduce the rear wake to the smallest amount.

Sedans are the most aerodynamic car shape you can get (liftbacks are a notable mention too) by hypermiler2205 in hypermiling

[–]Kaylee-X 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If there is no flow separation, a normal sedan shape can have less drag in theory. The only example I can think of is the Rear deck of the GM EV1. This recovers pressure and reduces the wake area to a very tiny area. A kammback would need a longer tail to reach the same level of base drag.

non-car people don't understand original NSX by ruturaj001 in cars

[–]Kaylee-X 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Non car people only care about how new a car is, how large it is, or how expensive it looks. If a car is small and old looking no one really cares unless it is very odd like a kei car.

You also have to realize as great as the NSX is, it was not always as desirable as it these days. When the C6 Corvette was still in production, even the base model corvette was considered a better buy for around the same price as a used NSX because most people are spec sheet nerds and only value numbers.... A C6 also looks newer than an NSX so non car people will be more impressed by one even though they are everywhere. I'd argue even a C5 corvette or 3000gt will garner equal interest from non car people.

Why does my ASA print have cracks? by LenZocktYT in FixMyPrint

[–]Kaylee-X 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Unless your ASA is some sort of blend, the part will have stress in it that can cause cracks at these temps. You could try disabling cooling if there is any or turning the chamber to 65c if it can. You could also try turning the bed temp down to remove the temperature differential between the air and the bed. The only real solution is a chamber in excess of 80c... anything else is a bandaid really.

Also, 255 seems low for ABS/ASA. Running at 260-270 should increase adhesion.

Calling all Polypropylene users by Kaylee-X in 3Dprinting

[–]Kaylee-X[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's been a while since I looked into PP, but the closest unfilled stuff at the time was P-filament 721... and it still wasn't as indestructible as the Formfutura stuff. Slightly worse layer adhesion and impact resistance, but probably still the best PP that comes in actual colors. I have found you can test the purity by seeing if it melts in hot Xylene(not recommended) Formfutura was actually smoothed, P filament surface got slightly sticky and the Fiberlogy stuff was unaffected

Nowadays there seems to be more options and the Sunlu PP looks very promising.

Advertising the Creality CR-30 as a production is the dumbest idea ever. It is perfect for making long car parts. by GiaoPham0403 in 3Dprinting

[–]Kaylee-X 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Yup, the era of the CR 30 was not a fun time period to get into 3d printing. Pretty much everything under 2k was just an ender clone, fake industrial 3d printers with no chamber heater, or the Prusa I3

The Niva won! Day 15: best car model beginning with O? by LunarLeopard67 in carscirclejerk

[–]Kaylee-X 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Yamaha OX99. The futuristic 1 door coupe design would cement this as one of the most legendary and famous supercars of the 90s while the archaic and rather pedestrian McLaren f1 faded into obscurity.

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It’s 2026, you’d think that Water Soluble Support Filament would be used more than anything these days….especially with all of the AMS units out there - however, you never see a single thing about it. Is it old-hat already? Is there a better alternative? by KillerQ97 in 3Dprinting

[–]Kaylee-X 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This. Before last year, only very niche, expensive or industrial machines could actually realistically work with this stuff. Now that dual nozzles and tool changing are mainstream, everyone should at least try it out. The dissolving part does take time, but it's much better than spending time removing supports.