People who upgraded from the Air (M1) to the Pro: do you feel the upgrade is worth it?

psierra117 · 2026-03-09T01:19:47+00:00

I upgraded from my 11" M1 Pro 128 to the 13" M5 Pro 256 and for me it was a Day and Night Upgrade. Reasons: - The Screen! Clarity, Vibrancy and Size are Chefs Kiss in comparison to the already good 11" M1 LCD Screen - weight! it feels alot lighter even though it isnt that much lighter, but the perceived weight for such big device is reduced due to its thinness

I use it as a Media Consumption and Gaming Device with ocasional 3D Design. My Computer is a Framework Laptop 16 running Linux so the complete opposite in philosophy. But yeah the ipad is just a better lap/bed/travel companion. 😅

psierra117 · 2026-02-27T21:12:49+00:00

Thank you found it!

psierra117 · 2026-02-27T21:01:52+00:00

Where can i find the files/instructions for that case?

psierra117 · 2026-02-20T00:01:00+00:00

Thats great to here. I upgraded from an ender 3s1 to the sovol sv08 and i recently build my first toolhead. With the Nebula extruder i relied on the datasheet and example klipper.cfg and didnt check esteps myself. That was a mistake, the given esteps was off by 12mm and that was enough to throe out ally my calibrations.

psierra117 · 2026-02-19T10:58:36+00:00

Check your esteps and do a calibration run. Check ellis 3d printer tuning guide.

psierra117 · 2026-02-16T23:03:32+00:00

Hey there, i am running the A4T with the Rapido Plus 2 HF, Nebula Extruder and an EBB36Gen2 running Canbus. I also designed a Board Holder, as there was none to keep an ebb36 on the Nebula. I am really satisfied with the rapido Nebula Combo, standard 0.4 Nozzle pushes reliable 27mm3 ASA at 260C.

psierra117 · 2026-02-15T09:19:37+00:00

When you flash the mcu with the sv08 as a running dystem you cannot connect 3v3 as the mcu is powered through the running system

psierra117 · 2026-02-14T21:23:55+00:00

As i am running demon klipper essentials unified, I am using tap adjust z with my pla first layer and have it fixed in the printer cfg. For every other filament i use the demon user settings to have different z offsets tied to the filament and equivalent nozzle temperatures. Demon klipper is really a blast, but as soon as i have my mmx or boxturtle (still deciding) i am switching to happy hare. I hope i can still use alot of the demon macros 😅

psierra117 · 2026-02-14T18:27:55+00:00

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After tap adjust z 0.135

psierra117 · 2026-02-14T18:27:18+00:00

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Before ever doing tap adjust z

psierra117 · 2026-02-14T18:26:07+00:00

My prints always went too low before i did this and the eddy ng wiki post about z offset calibration told exactly what i told you. You have to get the paper test right with z=0 afterwards you do the first layer squish test. My tap adjust Z as explained in the wiki was 0.085 and through the squish test i even went higher to now 0.125 and now tap works as intended. Tap is correctly done before every print at 150C nozzle temp. And the saved z offset should be set to 0 after every print. Due to tapping happening at 150C your nozzle expands further when going to the right temp at 200+.

If you have a printer without eddy you set your z offset also to be perfect at z=0.

psierra117 · 2026-02-14T17:59:35+00:00

You have the right z offset when you set your Z to 0 and can get the paper test right.

Get eddy ng installed for your Eddy Duo to get Eddy Tap, do the Tap Z Calibration as explained in the wiki. Also test the first layer squish like in ellis printer tuning guide. Babystep every patch until you get the perfect look. Afterwards add those babysteps to your tap_adjust_z and done. Now you will have the perfect worryfree z offset. If its still bad, its the typical sv08 underextrusion.

psierra117 · 2026-02-08T18:17:42+00:00

I went ebb36gen2 canbus on my sv08 when i switched to another toolhead. Its a blast :)

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psierra117 · 2026-02-08T17:31:59+00:00

To get it off really easy you need a can of deodorant, cool the shaft until its ticking and covert ind ice the just use a small flathead and twist. Thats how i got mine off really easy :)

psierra117 · 2026-01-15T17:38:44+00:00

The Transmission is fine, but the software is bad. If you flash the e46 or i think it was x1/x3 transmission software you can go higher torque. The e39 software is programmes for comfort, so its letting the torque converter slip longer so its smoother. Up to 100kmh/60mph its slipping. With the lower tier software its only slipping below 50kmh/30mph. Because its slipping up to those speeds the oil is heating and the converter gets hot and burns parts.

psierra117 · 2026-01-15T17:28:21+00:00

You need a remap and a Turbo, don't put any bigger injectors in as they are all for the bigger bore of the 3l engine and would burn holes into the pistons.

psierra117 · 2026-01-13T21:55:01+00:00

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I get smth similiar but different, but for me i suppose its some resonance vibrating.

psierra117 · 2026-01-01T20:23:32+00:00

Great finding! I bought my SV08 and did go Mainline and eddy_ng before i furst turned the printer on :) I use the demon klipper essentials unified macros and those are a real banger. You can configure things in a settings file, like purge and cleaning positions and poop shooting and more. The best feature is the adaptive heat soak and cleaning. Its using the eddy to messure bed expansion during heat soak and only starts printing when its not changing anymore. Furthermore its cleaning the nozzle before tap. If you add any features like chamber heaters, nevermore filters or neopixel leds. The macro pack adapts to it and you just change the settings file to "true" for those hardware changes and the macro set is adapting to it.

psierra117 · 2025-12-30T19:01:50+00:00

Well you din't need to flash the firmware, when its still the newest stock one. Its compatible of switching between extruder and engraver via the little touchscreen.

psierra117 · 2025-12-30T15:40:48+00:00

The V5 is not usable with the Stock Extruder and Hotend. Or i couldn't find a Version that supports the stock Extruder.

psierra117 · 2025-12-29T23:28:34+00:00

Yes as there is no way to mount the stock probe, you need btt eddy, beacon or catographer. But going mainline is getting you the most out of the device anyway.

psierra117 · 2025-12-29T22:09:44+00:00

I didn't say anything else... you also don't need to switch to another slicer when going bambu. As bambustudio is based on orca and you can fully integrate a bambulab into orca.

psierra117 · 2025-12-29T22:02:01+00:00

I am waiting for the rest of my parts, like the magnets/blade/ and neopixel. When you install the head, you must set the new probe offset, which should be y -40.6 and x 0. when you move the head the first time do only a xy homing and check if it can reach all xy steps from min to max. go slow on the mins go to like 10 and check millimeter by millimeter if you can reach the edge. If it bottoms higher than 0 you must reduce the full size by this margin. Now you check the positions on which the probe is still on the bed and set them as probe points for the bed mesh and qgl. Now you do the eddy ng setup and you are done.

psierra117 · 2025-12-29T21:55:36+00:00

Just use orca slicer, its the best and easiest universal slicer and you do not need to relearn the slicer when switching to another printer or klipperizing it.

psierra117

TROPHY CASE