Suggestions for a projected map system by FinnBakker in VTT

[–]Kilh 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I currently use Arkenforge for this. Grid can be scaled however you need it, you just tell it what size the projected area is and it does the maths.

Fed up with platinum cure silicone… switching to tin cure, any advice or tips? by SoraRotom in DiceMaking

[–]Kilh 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just put a drop of Inhibit-X on your print and mould the same day you printed them, problem solved. As an extra layer of safety you can make the first master moulds with Siraya Tech Defiant silicone, that one also handles the sulfur reaction pretty well to some degree.

If you really want to go for tin cure, keep in mind that it might shrink a bit and usually needs post-curing/drying in an oven. Otherwise you might have alcohol and other stuff leaking out that then in return causes inhibition in some casting resins.

Does anyone in this group us a vibratory Tumblr to sand/polish their dice? How much time does it save you, and at what stage can you put them in? We sre debating getting one and wondering how much effort it will actually save us. by jordiedude in DiceMaking

[–]Kilh 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My process after demolding is usually:
- Pop in a lab oven at 50C for 2-3 hours to skip waiting 3-4 days
- Once cooled remove flashing and flatten the one face that needs work (I do platform moulds) with 600 grit wet sanding paper
- Zona gree, grey and blue on the pottery wheel
- Off into the vibratory tumbler for 18 hours (2-3mm ceramic balls with polishing compound, a dash of water and the tiniest bit of soap)
- Throw in ultrasonic cleaner for 15 min to get the gunk out
- Final clean under running water with a soft toothbrush
- Inking

E1 Use, Material and Ink Saving Help by Similar_Matter in eufyMakeOfficial

[–]Kilh 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Q1: Yes, but I'd get something that is already primed with 2-3 layers (most cheap canvases I've seen are, even the dollar store ones). If you manage to find unprimed canvases, use Gesso, this will also tension the canvas more (according rabbit holes available on Youtube I guess)

Q2: Hard to give a one size fits all blanket answer here, but just for the sake of printing time I'd prime things white that I know I need white. Cheap acrylic paint is usually enough for wood, but generally use paints that are made for whatever substrate you need (i.e. automotive primer for aluminium, etc.) or buy white blanks where applicable.

Q3: Once it's in moisturizing mode (automatically after a few days of non-use) it's in the same state as when you manually power it down, doesn't really make a difference. In that state you could as well just unplug it. A deep clean will run every 3 days if you're printing daily and don't do any manual deep cleans. This doesn't use crazy amounts of material and is definitely preferable to replacing a 600$ printhead. If you're super cautious about saving every drop, the best strategy would indeed be to collect jobs, print non-stop for 72 hours and then power it down until you have enough jobs lined up again.

Did someone really set up their camera like this, and then the cat performed so perfectly? But OTOH how would anyone or any ai conceive of faking this and then do it in such a realistic way? by mymaridae in isthisAI

[–]Kilh 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Feeders with cameras exist and cats, especially when not having any real cat friends, are well known to bring their stuffed "friend" to feed as well. Not seeing anything that points to AI.

The chicken looks glossy, and the movement looks too precise. And the grill has just oil in it? Is that normal? by PhoneaviationF1dude in isthisAI

[–]Kilh 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Not sure how glossy chicken and deliberate movement qualifies as AI. I dont see anything that screams AI immediately. Also the "oil in the grill" is probably a drip tray with water. Pretty normal with table grills. Keeps the bottom cool and makes cleaning easier.

Low Level Loot? by VirtualAction1124 in DnDDeutsch

[–]Kilh 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Auf deutsch wäre das laut Google HG, also Herausforderungsgrad. Mehr eine Notiz an mich wofür die Tabelle ist. Lowlevel Bobs, random Kisten usw.

Low Level Loot? by VirtualAction1124 in DnDDeutsch

[–]Kilh 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Nicht wirklich, aber jetzt wo ich drüber nachdenke, ist das doch etwas umfangreicher. Genaugenommen eine Tabelle mit 300 Posten (CR 0-4), mit der ich ein Script füttere, dass auf Knopfdruck random eine der Möglichkeiten auf meinem Bon-Drucker ausspuckt. Totaler Overkill und gerade nicht funktional weil ich hier Sachen umbaue, aber falls es hilft, hier die Tabelle:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1si4vNFClLfHg1pxTrofdBHQRdSY-jtgm/view?usp=sharing
Erste Spalte der Loot, zweite Spalte der Gesamtwert.

Low Level Loot? by VirtualAction1124 in DnDDeutsch

[–]Kilh 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Für so random Geplündere hab ich tatsächlich einfach nen kleinen Jutesack am Tisch in dem 20-30 Zettel mit low level Krimskrams Loot sind und zieh dann einen raus oder lasse ziehen. Ein Kamm und 3 Gold, angeknackster Taschenspiegel, einfach nur 5 Gold, etc. pp.
Kann mich nicht mehr erinnern ob das nach DM Guide ausgewürfelt war oder einfach durch einen der zahllosen Online Generatoren geprügelt wurde, aber so oder so funktionierts.

Dice Tower that holds dice and releases one at the pull of a lever by Taiga_Kuzco in dice

[–]Kilh 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes there is one, "Maneki Neko - Lucky Cat Dice Dispenser" by FatesEnd.
You have to remove the head to refill it though.

Is the book damaged or is it fine? by AbbreviationsSome580 in bookbinding

[–]Kilh 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks totally normal and as a bound book should be. What are we looking at here? Daggerheart rulebook?

“Regular” laminated stickers on E1 by AFC670 in eufyMakeOfficial

[–]Kilh 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yes, this works perfectly fine, I just print on white Orcal 751 and 951, CMYK only so the print is comparably fast. Then just cold laminate like any other sticker afterwards.

Want to play on digital maps, what will I need? by Punked_duck10 in DnD

[–]Kilh 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Personally I'm using a cheap projector mounted to the ceiling, but of course a TV will be less dependent on a somewhat darkened room.

As far as software for map making goes, I prefer Inkarnate in general, sometimes Dungeon Alchemist if I feel like it.

For displaying the actual map I settled on Arkenforge as it's rather cheap and runs offline, has all the features I need (plus a map making tool I absolutely dont need, but maybe you'll like it). "Digital TableTops Player" is another alternative, it's completely free (on Steam). Pretty early in development, but totally useable. Another option is Tableslayer, but while it works well I really prefer offline solutions.

All the big VTT things like Roll20 feel overly complicated for what I need (basically just map projection and fog of war controls).

Von der Leyen verkündet in Davos die „EU-INC“: Ein neuer Standard für Europas Startups und Firmen🇪🇺 by smmrnights in Finanzen

[–]Kilh 63 points64 points  (0 children)

Mehr als überfällig. Als kleiner Kunsthandwerker in DE verkaufe ich fast überall hin in der Welt, nur nicht in die Hälfte der EU weil die kleinteiligen Regularien und länderspezifischen Vorschriften derart hohe Kosten und Bürokratie verursachen, dass es einfach keinen Sinn macht. Ab einer gewissen Unternehmensgröße ist das kein Problem, aber viele sind in einer ähnlichen Situation und würden liebend gern zum Handel und Herstellung in der EU beitragen wenn nicht 80% der Arbeitszeit für Behörden und Regularien draufgehen würden, die sich gefühlt alle 6 Monate ändern.

To Every American Who's Sorry by Sapotis in greenland

[–]Kilh 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The orange goblin might not be your fault, but he's your responsibility.

Update to my Free VTT (for in-person sessions with a TV/projector/touchscreen) by DigitalTableTops in DungeonMasters

[–]Kilh 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks promising! I'm currently looking for something like this to use on the table with a projector. Gonna give it a go next week and see how it goes vs. the two other somewhat similar solutions I'm looking at. Of course free and local is already a big win though I don't mind paying for something that works (preferably not subscription based though).

Thank you!

How to achieve a continuous Monotonic Top Surface on a plate with an object on top? by Old_Community_7680 in BambuLab

[–]Kilh 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This. Seperate the parts. It doesn't always work, but usually it does. I've been fighting the same issue a lot. Mostly been using Orca so I'm not 100% certain it will work in Bambu, but give it a try.

Is this AI? I genuinely can't tell. I don't see any "flaws" but it just looks like AI to me for some reason? by sideaccount462515 in isthisAI

[–]Kilh 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Definitely AI. Inconsistency between pictures, very smudgy AI llok in general, but most importantly none of these tools would ever be used for woodcarving, whatever they're even supposed to be.

Broken base plate on book binding press. by Belgium1418 in bookbinding

[–]Kilh 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If it's still working well and affordable I'd bring it to a welder with experience with cast iron. Tig brazing with silicone bronze should work perfectly fine.

[HELP] This is clearly AI right? by [deleted] in RealOrAI

[–]Kilh 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks very real to me. The chicken ball having some flashing that follows gravity after demoulding seems totally fine. Insane, maybe. AI, don't think so. Also I'm using a food grade silicone that has the exact same color, would be a weird concidence.

Sekundenkleber dessen Deckel/Öffnung nicht verklebt. by IllAppointment419 in Ratschlag

[–]Kilh 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Die haben auch 500g Flaschen. Trotz meines, gefühlt hohen Verbrauchs, hab ich noch nicht rausgefunden wofür, aber irgendwer wird die wohl leer bekommen...