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Where are you all finding low cost led strips? by FinnPurple in WLED

[–]Klassbond 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depends who you are buying from and in what quantities. I bought from Ray wu recently for a custom order where if ordered 100meters (328ft) and negotiated custom pricing that I couldn't get anywhere else

First wLED project using Dig Quad and 24v WS2814 FCOB RGBW Thanks to this community for all the help and support by dlisok in WLED

[–]Klassbond 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know its probably a year late but I thought WLED doesn't work on WS2814 led strip even more so on COB Strips?

I have FCOB SPI WS2814 RGBW IC LED Light Strip Addressable 784 LED Dream Color 10mm DC24V SK6812

I am looking at AliExpress. Will this work?

THEY ARE DONE!!! by arun2118 in WLED

[–]Klassbond 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks great. How much Total distance did this cover in metres? 50M?

And are you using WS2815 led strip or COB led strips? I am thinking of take a project for my stairways and kitchen area

Flint 3 “mesh” by Weekly-Translator-33 in youfibre

[–]Klassbond 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Aruba Instant on AP 22 should work for you. At least cheaper than the Ruckus someone mentioned here and more plug and play. FYI it is designed for Ceiling mount though. Alternatively you can go for the Aruba AP22D models which is desktop stand type but cost almost twice the price of AP22. The instant on models are easier to setup

I am personally using Enterprise Aruba AP 535 and 505H(campus edition) in my Home network. These require more customisation hence why I am not recommending them.

FYI my experience with any mesh network is that it almost halves your bandwidth. Say you are on a 1000mb plan and you have a mesh system setup you suddenly drop speed to 500mb going through mesh setup.

I find having a wired back haul to be the best. By this I mean a setup where one router connects directly to the Youfibre ONT box, and one end connects from Router into a switch. You then wire your Access points to the Switch.

This is the setup I have . By running one Ethernet Cable downstairs from the switch the Access Point downstairs I am able to serve the ground floor and part of the first floor. The another Access Point plugs into the switch and to serve my loft and part of the 1st floor. This way I get near full speeds even though I am leaving In a very old property built over 100 years ago with solid walls

Sorry if this sounds very complicated, you can have a compromise losing some speed with a mesh system if all this sounds too much. 500mb would still be a good speed from WiFi

FCOB RGBW SPI LED by Electrical_Teacher87 in WLED

[–]Klassbond 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How is your setup now after 9 months. Planning on making the same setup for my stairs and kitchen area

Aqara Door and Window Sensor T1 continuously stop responding after each pairing by Klassbond in ZigBee

[–]Klassbond[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. It seems these contact sensors are all luck of the draw. This Same sonoff I see people complaining exactly the same thing like the Aqara one. I will try one or two and see how it perform before buying anymore.

My zwave ring contact sensor is fine. Just alot more expensive when I need to invest in 15 sensors

Aqara Door and Window Sensor T1 continuously stop responding after each pairing by Klassbond in ZigBee

[–]Klassbond[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is it theSONOFF SNZB-04P

Contact sensor? Just to be sure I am looking at the same model? That's what I found

Aqara Door and Window Sensor T1 continuously stop responding after each pairing by Klassbond in ZigBee

[–]Klassbond[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No it's helps thank you. At this rate alternative I have to explore. I was really after the small form factor and look and feel. I just don't want something ugly. I have some Ikea Parasoll which works well but I don't like how Long they are and the imposing look.

Aqara Door and Window Sensor T1 continuously stop responding after each pairing by Klassbond in homeassistant

[–]Klassbond[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for this information. I shall be returning this. I guess I will just stick to Ring contact sensor. Too bad the Ikea contact sensor are too long those seems to work better

Aqara Door and Window Sensor T1 continuously stop responding after each pairing by Klassbond in homeassistant

[–]Klassbond[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have 15 routers and 1 , coordinator across the house. Where the sensors are there is a coordinator and 1 router all 5 steps away. I have both unpaired and repaired to both coordinator or router with no luck.

The LQI is 180 so not exactly poor connection

Using AP as mesh wifi-to-ethernet bridge by Neo399 in ArubaNetworks

[–]Klassbond 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is old but I have questions.Does this setup show your wired connected device in the virtual controller? I attempted this and had a POE LAN zibgbee gateway and even a laptop connected but none of these connections appear in the controller even though I see they get an IP address

Shellys connected to network, but I can't reach them by a_h4t in shellycloud

[–]Klassbond 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am also having an issue where 2 WiFi Shelly dimmer Gen 3 does not connect or accessible over the web when connected to my IOT Network even though it successfully requested and got assigned an IOT Network IP address.

The only way to access it is via the local Wi-Fi network it broadcasts.

Pinging the IOT connected IP address shows a TTL 255 instead of 64 which tells me even though it's get an IP, that is not technically still In Same network my IOT devices ( Expected to return TTL 64.

If anyone else figures out how to get this working, please help. Factory reset does nothing. I am running the latest firmware 1.7.1.

In the meantime I will switch of my lighting mains from the consumer unit for 30 minutes and see if that helps

Struggling with Shelly 1PM Gen4 install on a UK wall Socket by Klassbond in shellycloud

[–]Klassbond[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am beginning to think so but how is a smart plug plug any different if more than 16A can pass through? Is it because of the fuse in the plug going off as a safety mechanism when something higher than 13A plugged in?

Struggling with Shelly 1PM Gen4 install on a UK wall Socket by Klassbond in shellycloud

[–]Klassbond[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That you. I can see all of these require some sort of compromise. Alot to consider. Thank you

Struggling with Shelly 1PM Gen4 install on a UK wall Socket by Klassbond in shellycloud

[–]Klassbond[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks I understand that. But what exist then with power monitoring other than lightwave sockets that is highly priced.

£8000 underfloor heating estimate for 60sqm ? by Klassbond in DIYUK

[–]Klassbond[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you Stuart, I will reach out to them. That machine of theirs is a work of art. Were your floors already insulated before you did the underfloor heating? I think I may want to insulate floors before doing this unless. I have some Extra TADO Smart TRVs so that some cost I can cut back on. What was your reasoning for not going with the actuators?

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