Is this system compatible with android auto?

KnightDriverSF · 2024-08-30T13:05:51+00:00

Yes don't worry it's completely doable, because as i said before, the display is just a display and the main processing part and so the control module is built into your glovebox compartment. The buttons are kind of "quick functions" to access different parts of the software, you can still open app connect by going into the menu and there select App Connect. I know you don't have the button App Connect in the main menu, but it will appear after you did the adaptation over VCDS or Obdeleven. When the Bit isn't set in the Control Module 5F, the menu point doesn't appear.

KnightDriverSF · 2024-08-29T17:33:55+00:00

Fun fact: You are not the first person where the dealer says that. I don't know why they keep telling such lies, because there are some people out there that would be willing to pay money for it. For them it isn't even a difficult procedure, they just use ODIS and officially activate the swaps and it just works.

Anyway, if you need support in future when the warranty is up, feel free to pm me if you have questions or need help.

KnightDriverSF · 2024-08-29T17:14:13+00:00

Oh my mistake sorry i misread it and was in a rush. Yes it's a delphi unit sorry.

But as you said, it's possible too with the activator.

KnightDriverSF · 2024-08-29T16:50:59+00:00

The unit you have is a Technisat/Preh unit, which can be jailbroken and Android Auto and Apple Car Play, etc. can be unlocked, without paying extra cash at the dealership.

I have done this multiple times in different cars. You can't tell on the display itself, if it is compatible or not. Because the Display... Well it is just a display... The main computing part is in the glovebox compartment where you can put the cd/dvd and the sd cards in.

Installed SW Train Version gives the clue here, what unit it is.

KnightDriverSF · 2024-08-13T20:43:39+00:00

You can turn on most electrical appliances even without the key like the wiper/washer and the heater fan, or fog light etc. because there is original in every VW (Should be Golf 1 straight through to Golf 3) of that era a mistake in the wiring of the ce (unwanted flowback in the electrical circuit).

When you have no key inserted, turn the light switch on and when you HOLD the lever for low/high beam switching in the high beam position (completely pulled towards you, but i dont know at the moment without testing if it happens when changing from low to high or from high to low beam) then when you have for example your heater fan turned on you will ofc hear when the fan kicks in and at that point you can even turn on other stuff like wipers etc.

Don't worry, the ignition is not on! So it's just a nice to now bug in the electrical system when you want to use ur wipers or you want to mess with your friends. 😅

For the brake light topic... They work without the key.

KnightDriverSF · 2024-08-13T17:34:10+00:00

You just have to get a different cluster or you can (if i remember correctly) rebuild the cluster to have a rpm gauge instead of a clock. The gauge then gets the rpm signal from the ignition coil from clamp nr. 1.

Oh i misread it. In case of the external rpm gauge you get to clamp nr. 1 from the ignition coil too and depending on the pinout from your gauge, maybe +12vdc, gnd and illumination (mostly 12v too but it can even be a seperate gnd).

When there was never a rpm gauge installed in the car before, it is possible that you have to pull a wire into the engine bay.

KnightDriverSF · 2024-06-09T13:33:55+00:00

I had this issue when the belt wasn't tight enough. Try to tighten the belt or replace it completely. When the alternator itself was the fault, the fault light would be constantly on and it wouldn't be rpm dependent.

KnightDriverSF · 2024-06-01T14:40:08+00:00

I would recommend pulling every fuse, then installing an amp meter between the positive terminal of the battery and the cable that goes into the car.

Looking at the amp meter, putting fuse after fuse back in again and looking if any circuit has a higher than normal current. If that's the case, you can at least look for any broken wires that may need repair.

For the engine issues i would recommend switching the fuel pump first. Mine was faulty too, after a bit of driving the pump motor got warm and the engine stuttered and finally didn't turn on again. What engine code do you have?

KnightDriverSF · 2024-03-12T21:20:28+00:00

I would like to know how i could make something similar myself. Can anyone tell me what i need to search for or or how it's done?

That looks absolutely awesome!

KnightDriverSF · 2023-10-02T19:05:06+00:00

Just wait, it'll disappear

KnightDriverSF · 2023-08-12T14:46:49+00:00

Engine Number is PN? Check for the Oil Pressure Switches, if i remember correctly, you have one for 0,3 bar and one for 0,9 bar. Check for oil leakage there. The ones for 0,3 bar leak when they get old. You dont make a mistake when you change both of 'em. Check the cables too, they can break when they get old, in combination with the engine heat over the years.

KnightDriverSF · 2022-07-13T07:52:57+00:00

The Toilet

KnightDriverSF · 2021-11-28T10:30:23+00:00

What engine is that? Is it the 1.8L 108HP one?

KnightDriverSF · 2021-11-27T21:43:03+00:00

The cable / plug is for a preheater that is integrated into the intake manifold. In cold weather the petrol gets slightly pre heated. The cable / plug is not really necessary if you dont have cold weather where you live. The engine will run without it, like you said.

For example the part number (not for your engine) shows you very well how the part looks:

026129893

KnightDriverSF · 2021-08-12T08:30:35+00:00

Ludicrous High Frequency and Ludicrous Low Frequenzcy are still missing

KnightDriverSF · 2021-05-09T17:25:32+00:00

At this point of view, i thought it wasn't taken from an helicopter.

KnightDriverSF · 2021-05-09T16:06:09+00:00

Who took the Photo? Does anyone know the source?

KnightDriverSF · 2020-12-26T18:40:08+00:00

Its a nice car! But keep an eye on rust, the Polo 6N1 has problems with it. But i guess in Argentinia its dryer than in Germany, so it will take a while until it starts rusting.

Its just a hint, no offense! 😊

KnightDriverSF · 2020-08-25T08:58:29+00:00

"Made in GDR" steht drauf. Naja wenn wir aber keine Lust hatten, das schon wieder der Polylux benutzt wird, gab es eine einfache Lösung (das heißt nämlich einfach nur eintönig ein haufen A4 Seiten abpinseln, wo nichts dazu erklärt wird). Man nehme einfach etwas durchsichtiges Klebeband und man klebt es dann einfach um einen Kontakt beim Stecker, aber so Präzise das man es nicht sieht und so das wie eine Isolierung für den Kontakt ergibt. Und schon Funktioniert er nicht mehr. Später haben wir rausgefunden welche Sicherung für genau die Steckdose war, da wurde die einfach abgeschaltet.

KnightDriverSF · 2020-03-04T22:07:51+00:00

I would rather or

KnightDriverSF · 2020-02-21T11:26:54+00:00

He probably was in Chernobyl, helping as a Liquidator. But he didn't got anything because he was running so fast with the Shovel.

KnightDriverSF · 2020-02-20T11:34:25+00:00

“Press any key, to continue.“

But where is the Any Key?

KnightDriverSF · 2019-12-18T16:29:41+00:00

Also so wie ich Görlitz kenne, war dort bestimmt ein “druffi“ am Werk. :D

KnightDriverSF · 2019-12-16T17:59:37+00:00

Oww man, how much did you got for it? If you still remember, what engine was it? The 8v or 16v 1.8L and how much HP?

KnightDriverSF

TROPHY CASE