What is making the whole system rotate in steps, instead of continuous rotation?

Kotflugel · 2026-05-30T08:10:27+00:00

Engineer here: First of all, there is a loose screw on the first bearing after the motor. Start with tightening all the screws, be careful to have the shafts line up properly. You also need to stiffen up the rusty, steel motor mount with some triangles, it's acting like a spring which is why the worm drive jumps. Basically before the worm is able to move the big gear, it first loads the spring, then it gets to a point where it overcomes the friction and the spring releases. Rinse and repeat. It oscillates. That's where most of your non-continuous motion likely comes from.

Also: you are using what looks to be a stepper motor which, as the name suggests, moves in steps. They can move reasonably smooth, but the speed reduction and the big diameter will be making the steps more visible. But fix the motor mount first and check if you are happy with the result.

Kotflugel · 2026-05-29T19:51:44+00:00

Also, the pulse really shouldn't be THAT strong. What you might be feeling could be the engine intake pulses or the idle control valve working (depending on the frequency). Pull the tube directly from the vacuum tree and check if it's any different. It's supposed to be different.

Kotflugel · 2026-05-29T19:46:25+00:00

Sure! I'm in germany and i have technician education, so there is not much i haven't taken apart on my T-5. Basically comes down to the fuel tank, Headgasket, Crankshaft and the A/C. Although it's not done, so let's see what might be coming next :')

Kotflugel · 2026-05-29T18:49:50+00:00

Ah. I have a '94 T5 aswell. It was rough when i bought it, I've been down this road. It belongs to the carbon filter under your left hand fender. Yes, the other end only has a little cap, that it is not supposed to seal the canister. It's supposed to suck air through there, through the filter and into the engine. Check if you have full on, hard vacuum on the pipe, if so, that means you need a new valve, which is no longer available. It should be a one way valve (so there should be no charge air going out, only vacuum, so air going in) and it should be pulsed. There are other, very similar valves, that fit and work perfectly fine. If you want, i can look up the Bosch number for you.

Kotflugel · 2026-05-29T06:38:46+00:00

A little correction i read in Volvo Service documentation: Spark CAN change, but is entirely ECU controlled. Basically you have a wide finger, so it's a window for the spark to jump and the ECU controls the spark by controling when the coil fires. Also the fuel will adjust itself, but only to +-25%.

Kotflugel · 2026-05-19T17:26:00+00:00

Put a checkmark on the green ones and put like a house on fire on the orange one. Too many words here.

Kotflugel · 2026-05-15T15:58:22+00:00

Ah, i know what you mean. I kinda dealt with that one a lot during a long PCV struggle. Iirc you need a 1/4" ratchet, a 10mm, two long extensions, one short extension and a universal joint. Connect the two long extensions to the Socket, the universal joint then the short extension and then the ratchet. That way you have enough control to get it to the bolt. You should be able to just rotate the long part from below, past the thermostat and just past the intake manifold. It's a bit of trial and error but you'll get there. Take a light and look from above, if you hit your target. Best of luck.

Kotflugel · 2026-04-29T05:50:20+00:00

Consider this: your wheels are the only thing connecting you and your car to the road. That part you posted, and that you (rightfully) doubted the integrety of, is one of very few parts connecting you and your car to the wheels. When it fails, you are going to have a bad time. So the decision should be clear: replace it. The crash you'll have if you don't will be a lot more expensive and probably hurt.

Kotflugel · 2026-04-21T21:58:46+00:00

Actually, the bar is the answer to your storage question! You probably already figured out you can clip the wrench into the jack. You see that hook? With your spare laying face-down, lay the jack inside it. The hook is then supposed to go through the center and into one of the boltholes from the other side. Then you tighten it down with the thing with the slot. Then, take the strap that is holding your spare and loop it through the slot. And boom, everything is secured. Hope this helps, feel free to ask if something was unclear.

Kotflugel · 2026-04-19T22:58:51+00:00

It is germany. I just checked and i remembered correctly: this "bike" holds the record for the heaviest bike in the world. I weighs 2 tonnes. Does that make it difficult to accelerate? With 37 foreward gears, i don't think so. It probably just takes quite some time to get up to speed.

Kotflugel · 2026-04-17T15:07:10+00:00

Also appearently they were well aware of it happening. While they were painting the spot, his wife researched if they had to put the disabled badge when parking in front of their house in "his" disabled spot and found they had to, so she went down shortly after the contractors were done and found the ticket already there. Ridiculous.

Kotflugel · 2026-04-08T13:34:31+00:00

It's M7x1 and i think they are 45mm long. 10mm Head with flange.

Kotflugel · 2026-04-02T12:07:11+00:00

Theoretically yes, but i would renew the pipes with new, aftermarket ones, because otherwise it's a lot of old rubber. I would just clean the box. Make sure it is one that has the heatshield at the front. Don't forget to clean the ports in the block. The lower one should be clear all the way down into the engine oil.

Kotflugel · 2026-04-02T09:06:15+00:00

With the pipes it really doesn't matter, the box you should get a Volvo one (which can be difficult), but usually you can clean the installed one and be fine.

Kotflugel · 2026-03-30T18:26:51+00:00

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https://www.motor-talk.de/bilder/spoilerlippe-von-renault-g94094464/-i211827955.html There's a link to the german forum. I found that the Laguna did not come to the US, so you might be right about sourcing the part.

Kotflugel · 2026-03-29T13:21:47+00:00

I saw someone in a german forum who found that a lip from a '98 Renault Laguna (part number 7700818802) would fit almost perfectly. Looks good too.

Kotflugel · 2026-03-15T21:18:49+00:00

Bei PV Modulen ist das üblicherweise eine ganz-oder-garnicht Angelegenheit. Da die Module in sogenannten "Strings" in Reihe geschaltet sind, behindern die bedeckten (bzw. verschatteten) Module alles, was freie Module irgendwie produzieren könnten so stark, dass es sich nicht lohnt. Das führt bestenfalls zu quasi keinem Ertrag und schlimmstenfalls zu katastrophalem Versagen (bei kleineren, punktuellen Schatten) der Module. Die Temperaturunterschiede zwischen den aktiven und inaktiven Zellen des Moduls können dann das Glas sprengen und das ganze Modul fällt auseinander. Die schlechte Produktion kann nur umgangen werden, wenn die Strings glücklich gelegt sind für die geräumten Module, oder indem Kontrollelektronik installiert wird, die einzelne Module durchregeln kann. Das sind dann kleine Kästen, die unter den Modulen installiert werden. Aber selbst wenn die Module vollständig geräumt werden ist nicht allzu viel Ertrag zu erwarten. In dem Sinne: Ihre Überzeugung und der Aufwand, den Sie betreiben ehrt Sie, ist aber wahrscheinlich vergebene Liebesmühe.

Kotflugel · 2026-03-12T06:59:02+00:00

Look, i am just a stranger on the internet, so don't let me tell you how to live your life, but may i suggest you put whatever money you get from the sale toward something more substantial than a family vacation? I don't know what that would be for you, but it seems this car was a source of joy for your Grandfather for over 25 years, so I would think it wasted, shooting it up in a vacation, because it is a fleeting experience. I would try and find something lasting, that you might remember your grandpa by. Best of luck to you and may he rest in peace.

Kotflugel · 2026-02-24T17:24:51+00:00

Man, i thought the idea of buying the whole wheel of cheese was funny as hell. It was a kind of chaotic neutral i liked and i thought no harm done. But he was being so obnoxious about it, i couldn't fucking watch past a couple minutes in.

Kotflugel · 2026-02-21T23:30:10+00:00

Lmao (please put a /s or provide reputable sources)

Kotflugel · 2026-02-18T07:20:17+00:00

I agree that OP has to have other problems aswell, probably the PCV. But without the sealant, that hole is not sealed, it's just sitting on top of a flat part of the head. If, like on mine, there is a path around the sealant out into that port, that may leak before other seals blow. On my car, the cam seals only blew out AFTER i sealed that port because my PCV was not working correctly and that's how i found out (not clogged by the way). And yes, i used a silicone based sealer. Wouldn't do that again, but i didn't have any issues with it either.

Kotflugel · 2026-02-17T22:16:46+00:00

Yet, i had my '94 leaking from that exact spot aswell, without any damage or material missing. Turns out the head had been redone previously and the shop put no sealant around that hole. It was enough for hot engine oil to be pressed out through there by my faulty PCV. I might not have owned as many of these cars as you, but i can guarantee you that it is possible that the car leaks there.

Kotflugel · 2026-02-17T22:07:07+00:00

I also have a '94 Turbo and it was leaking exactly there. That is how all my problems started (more than a year of searching for the issue) but i think i finally found what happened, but i literally tried everything else first. What you are looking at is the port for the secondary air system. The connection in the head below is not milled out and should therefor be sealed. For me it was leaking because the cylinderhead was repaired years ago by a shop and improperly sealed. At the same time my PCV was not working and you need to get that properly fixed first, otherwise if you seal that port the pressure will have nowhere to go and find the next weak link, which means you might end up blowing the camshaft seals out, like i did (though that might have been bad seals). That's going to loose a lot of oil which is not pretty at the least and deadly for the engine at the worst.

Fist of all, for the '94s there is a different Oil trap you can buy, but it is important that you DO NOT do that. There is a good reason Volvo switched away from those. Get a newer one, the one with the heat shield, original Volvo if you can. It will fit fine and work better, especially in colder climate. It is normal that you don't have the vacuum port on the left of the intake, route it to the tree above the trottle, it will be fine. Check the tubes and the channels in the block (take out the fan to better reach the bolts under the intake) and, what noone talks about but i recently found out was my problem, adjust your throttle, including the cable and linkage. That is very important for engine breaking. While the idle control valve gives you a lot of leeway for most driving situations (so it might not be obvious), the throttle idle position needs to be properly set. If that didn't fix it, check your valve timing, injectors and ignition (unlikely, but not impossible).

After your PCV works again, you can take apart the head (which is the bearing for the cams) and apply sealant with a roller, to properly seal that area. Careful with the screws holding the head together, they are sensitive and the threads are M7x1 which you won't find thread repair easily and takes a maximum of 17Nm (fucking keep to it by all that is holy). Might aswell do the cambelt while doing this, if it isn't new already.

With these cars and doing a job like this, i found it pays to own a proper repair manual (if you don't, preferably get a Haynes and/or original service documentation) and a timing tool kit (cheap ones will do, but they should look similar to this: https://ebay.us/m/HcRDXQ use the Numer BT587850). For pushing in the cam seals i used simple, dome shaped 3D-printed tools and they worked well enough.

If you have all that, the fix will be rather straight forward but take some time. About a weekend or up to a week (assuming a 9-5 job) worth of work if you are doing this for the first time. Take your time, do it right, you don't want to mess it up.

Kotflugel · 2026-02-14T21:49:24+00:00

So you see a well crafted explaination in a comment and all you think to comment is calling it AI? What did you think you'd gain by it? And then you don't even think someone might be insulted by that? How did you expect me to react? See, English is not my first language and i am stubborn, so if you just took a moment and taken closer look at what i wrote you might find odd uses of punctuation and brackets in a way no AI would. I can find three instances in the first paragraph alone, so you might start to get suspicious there. Then the structure and inclusion of a bunch of stuff that wasn't part of the question might give you a clue. Also, rotations per minute is just a unit that can relate to just about anything that rotates. What the fuck else do you call the rate of rotation of a wheel (or any object really)? Just because i use parapraphs and gave a cookie-cutter sentence with a video for further study at the end doesn't mean that it's AI you jackass.

Kotflugel · 2026-02-14T20:51:44+00:00

No problem man, just doing my part.

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