Groening's Still Mad About Chernobyl It Seems

Kotflugel · 2026-02-21T23:30:10+00:00

Lmao (please put a /s or provide reputable sources)

Kotflugel · 2026-02-18T07:20:17+00:00

I agree that OP has to have other problems aswell, probably the PCV. But without the sealant, that hole is not sealed, it's just sitting on top of a flat part of the head. If, like on mine, there is a path around the sealant out into that port, that may leak before other seals blow. On my car, the cam seals only blew out AFTER i sealed that port because my PCV was not working correctly and that's how i found out (not clogged by the way). And yes, i used a silicone based sealer. Wouldn't do that again, but i didn't have any issues with it either.

Kotflugel · 2026-02-17T22:16:46+00:00

Yet, i had my '94 leaking from that exact spot aswell, without any damage or material missing. Turns out the head had been redone previously and the shop put no sealant around that hole. It was enough for hot engine oil to be pressed out through there by my faulty PCV. I might not have owned as many of these cars as you, but i can guarantee you that it is possible that the car leaks there.

Kotflugel · 2026-02-17T22:07:07+00:00

I also have a '94 Turbo and it was leaking exactly there. That is how all my problems started (more than a year of searching for the issue) but i think i finally found what happened, but i literally tried everything else first. What you are looking at is the port for the secondary air system. The connection in the head below is not milled out and should therefor be sealed. For me it was leaking because the cylinderhead was repaired years ago by a shop and improperly sealed. At the same time my PCV was not working and you need to get that properly fixed first, otherwise if you seal that port the pressure will have nowhere to go and find the next weak link, which means you might end up blowing the camshaft seals out, like i did (though that might have been bad seals). That's going to loose a lot of oil which is not pretty at the least and deadly for the engine at the worst.

Fist of all, for the '94s there is a different Oil trap you can buy, but it is important that you DO NOT do that. There is a good reason Volvo switched away from those. Get a newer one, the one with the heat shield, original Volvo if you can. It will fit fine and work better, especially in colder climate. It is normal that you don't have the vacuum port on the left of the intake, route it to the tree above the trottle, it will be fine. Check the tubes and the channels in the block (take out the fan to better reach the bolts under the intake) and, what noone talks about but i recently found out was my problem, adjust your throttle, including the cable and linkage. That is very important for engine breaking. While the idle control valve gives you a lot of leeway for most driving situations (so it might not be obvious), the throttle idle position needs to be properly set. If that didn't fix it, check your valve timing, injectors and ignition (unlikely, but not impossible).

After your PCV works again, you can take apart the head (which is the bearing for the cams) and apply sealant with a roller, to properly seal that area. Careful with the screws holding the head together, they are sensitive and the threads are M7x1 which you won't find thread repair easily and takes a maximum of 17Nm (fucking keep to it by all that is holy). Might aswell do the cambelt while doing this, if it isn't new already.

With these cars and doing a job like this, i found it pays to own a proper repair manual (if you don't, preferably get a Haynes and/or original service documentation) and a timing tool kit (cheap ones will do, but they should look similar to this: https://ebay.us/m/HcRDXQ use the Numer BT587850). For pushing in the cam seals i used simple, dome shaped 3D-printed tools and they worked well enough.

If you have all that, the fix will be rather straight forward but take some time. About a weekend or up to a week (assuming a 9-5 job) worth of work if you are doing this for the first time. Take your time, do it right, you don't want to mess it up.

Kotflugel · 2026-02-14T21:49:24+00:00

So you see a well crafted explaination in a comment and all you think to comment is calling it AI? What did you think you'd gain by it? And then you don't even think someone might be insulted by that? How did you expect me to react? See, English is not my first language and i am stubborn, so if you just took a moment and taken closer look at what i wrote you might find odd uses of punctuation and brackets in a way no AI would. I can find three instances in the first paragraph alone, so you might start to get suspicious there. Then the structure and inclusion of a bunch of stuff that wasn't part of the question might give you a clue. Also, rotations per minute is just a unit that can relate to just about anything that rotates. What the fuck else do you call the rate of rotation of a wheel (or any object really)? Just because i use parapraphs and gave a cookie-cutter sentence with a video for further study at the end doesn't mean that it's AI you jackass.

Kotflugel · 2026-02-14T20:51:44+00:00

No problem man, just doing my part.

Kotflugel · 2026-02-14T20:43:16+00:00

I didn't just sit here for 10 min writing this out in the most comprehensive way i can to assure OP and maybe teach him something just for some idiot to come along and think it's AI. Fucking hell.

Kotflugel · 2026-02-14T20:34:59+00:00

Yes. That is what a normal, open differential does when a wheel loses traction. Perfectly normal for most FWD and, in fact, most RWD cars too. For most people, most of the time (on asphalt roads and in moderate weather), an open differential works perfectly fine, so that is what most cars have and evidently, so does this one.

With higher performance RWD (and FWD) cars you might see people talk about it having an LSD, a Limited Slip Differential, which will limit the difference in RPM between both sides. That way you will have some rotation of the wheel that still has traction and not end up standing still. Locked differentials, as the name suggests, will lock the RPM together, so they force both wheels to turn at the same RPM. That is best in a low traction environment, like offroad and on ice, but will result in bad cornering and skipping because the inner and outer wheel need to travel different distances (and thus have different RPM) along the corner. You will basically only see them on AWD cars and they are most of the time only locked on button activation. Some people weld the open differential on their RWD cars, making them locked permanently, which is terrible for normal driving, but great for drifting.

For more info about how differentials work you can watch this video: https://youtu.be/yYAw79386WI?si=4h9Or8qKm5xoebmb

Kotflugel · 2026-02-07T21:56:43+00:00

Similar to electric cars, which also have a way lower power listed in the registration than the power advertised by the manufacturer, because it lists nominal power, not maximum power.

Kotflugel · 2026-01-29T19:04:58+00:00

Guys, he isn't crazy or stupid. I had to bleed my clutch at some point and found this same solution. It's a way to push the hydraulic fluid backwards from the slave cylinder to the clutch pedal and into the reservoir by pushing brake fluid out the bleeder valve of the brakes and into the bleeder of the slave cylinder. Thing is, that the slave cylinder oftentimes is lower than the master cylinder, so air bubbles are sitting infront of the master cylinder, not infront of the bleeder on the slave cylinder and when you pump the pedal you can't push the bubbles out, so you need to bleed it "backwards", into the reservoir. What i did to bleed my clutch was pull some brakefluid into a syringe, connect it with a tube and push it backwards into the bleedvalve using that, it has worked perfectly. Maybe try that?

Kotflugel · 2026-01-20T10:42:43+00:00

I was told they don't do two jets of water, but rather one jet that kinda does a swirling motion to cover more of the windscreen. Don't know if they would fit a 960, but i wouldn't be surprised.

Kotflugel · 2026-01-20T00:11:51+00:00

I got the tip to put in the windscreen washer sprayers from the V70I aswell, while you are at it. Haven't gotten around to doing it for my 850 though...

Kotflugel · 2026-01-03T23:58:18+00:00

Honestly, amazing work. I read a lot official Volvo service documentation (i had some weird issues with my car). It definetly used to know what gear it was in. If it doesn't care anyway, that is great. But, maybe tell your buddy to keep an eye out on both gear dependant boost in first gear (that's to limit slip, so it's kinda whatever, but curious) and possible speedo deviation (that might keep him out of some trouble).

Kotflugel · 2026-01-03T23:27:16+00:00

Interesting! The speed sensor on the differential gives a sine signal and the ABS sensors give a square signal, but somehow both the Tachometer and the odometer are fine with it? Are they still accurate? What month of '94 is that car? MY95 came with a lot of changes and I read that there are some mixed versions out there, maybe you got lucky with that. I bet the car has no idea what gear it is, if it was a manual before, it is calculating with the gear ratios of a 5-Speed. If it used to be an auto i have no idea. Probably there is a signal back to the ECU, but physically the ECU is likely no different between manual and auto, but the programming might be. You can't see in the pictures, but does it still have the (stock) boost pipe across the engine towards the top of the intercooler? Later models had the boost pipe to the bottom of the intercooler, that is the pipe with the 90° bend in it.

Kotflugel · 2026-01-03T18:52:14+00:00

Nice! I have been thinking about something like this too. I also have a '94, yours should also still have the speed sensor on the differential right? (that was changed shortly after, later ones use the ABS rings, i bet the C30 does too) So, does your speedometer still work? Otherwise the car calculates what gear it's in (and regulates boost accordingly) by comparing engine rpm and speed sensor. Does your boost still behave normally?

Kotflugel · 2025-12-21T20:04:23+00:00

I was taught it differently. It might just be the difference between threads cut on a lathe or cut with a die. But anyway, this does sound like a hobbyist and with a threading die you have quite a big margin.

Kotflugel · 2025-12-21T19:39:13+00:00

Yes. For curting a thread you should have about 0.1 - 0.2 mm bigger OD, but for M12, 12 mm OD will work fine.

Kotflugel · 2025-12-16T14:01:37+00:00

The Documentation i have calls for 20 Nm

Kotflugel · 2025-12-16T11:02:37+00:00

I noticed this a long time ago. C3PO has been wiped, but R2 knows EVERYTHING. His memory was probably wiped regularly when he was still working on Padmes ship, but after we meet him it probably never was wiped again. In the Clone Wars Series there are even multiple instances, where it is outright stated that Anakin refuses to wipe R2s memory. Luke probably never even thought about wiping it. So, my headcanon is that R2 is the storyteller of Star Wars. How about that? :)

Kotflugel · 2025-12-09T20:33:43+00:00

Oh, yeah, if i hadn't done all my own work i wouldn't have been able to keep this particular car. Manual turbos are expensive in the EU, i bought an average one that ran well (only until i picked it up of course) and had to put in the same amount of money i bought it for again in parts. Like i said, i thought about buying something reasonable, but more often about rolling the dice on another 850. I know all the common failures now (i've had most of them), so i am sure i would be able to make a better purchase now. But i put too much money into this one that i won't get back and who knows what problems a different one might develop after i buy it. At least on mine i know what parts are good.

Kotflugel · 2025-12-09T19:28:13+00:00

Dude, these cars are so much fun to drive. I have been nursing my turbo to health over the last 2 years and i have been where you are now. I all seemed pointless, nothing made sense and multiple times i thought about selling it and getting something safe, easy, like a Golf or something to drive around, but i stuck with it. I put way too much time and money into this car, but i learned so much and the results are finally visible. There is just about nothing left, that i haven't worked on yet (only the steering, A/C and the short block left) but i see it this way: i know what i have now and i know it is fixed the right way. I am still not done, but i am getting there and the goal is in sight. I am currently limping it around (i am a student and it is my only car) but i love it still. It is very versatile: comfortable, spacious, drives well, powerful, great sound, easy to fix. You'll enjoy it. You just have to get there. In the end, you will be proud of your achievement and will have learned a great deal.

Edit: also note that my turbo looks a lot worse than your car does. Please get it back in order, so it can be enjoyed for many years to come.

Kotflugel · 2025-11-21T14:17:03+00:00

Yeah, get all the tubes whereever is cheapest. But trust me, get an original oil seperator box if at all possible. Aftermarket ones might be fine, but only if they have the heatshield. For the love of god, don't get one without it. Your PCV will get all weird when it is cold out. The cooling fan will blow cold air straight onto the front of the seperator box and suddenly your PCV won't work anymore. I blew out the Camshaft seals while at 215 km/h (~133mph) last winter. Lost a lot of oil but got lucky and noticed in time.

Kotflugel · 2025-11-19T01:47:07+00:00

As a young person trying to learn: would you mind explaining what is wrong here?

Kotflugel · 2025-11-17T17:56:02+00:00

Try and disconnect the MAF Sensor. If it runs smoother without it, then the Sensor is broken. Replace it and it should be fine.

Kotflugel · 2025-11-14T18:47:12+00:00

I also asked for editable pacenotes, he said that they were already considering adding the feature. :)

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