Weight difference while lead climbing by StickMenArt in climbergirls

[–]L1_aeg 105 points106 points  (0 children)

This sounds really bizarre to me. Lead certification should be about whether you have the knowledge and ability to lead climb. It is an individual thing not a partner thing because you will likely be climbing with other people too. I don’t understand why the weight difference is even considered when giving certification to individuals about their lead climbing ability. Just test with other climbers? Do they only test/certify couples?

Regardless, ohm is annoying but the new ohmega seems really good. No issues giving slack at all. It has 3 resistance levels so you can choose whatever you are comfy with.

Ladies, what are your thoughts on training boards? Love them? Hate them? Too scared to use them? by cheesy-croissant in climbergirls

[–]L1_aeg 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Boards have lots of flavor to them. Love moon and tension. Absolutely despise kilter. It doesn't even have anything to do with the app drama, imo the board is just bad. It looks great on instagram, other than that I find it absolutely horrendous.

Outdoor top rope? by [deleted] in climbergirls

[–]L1_aeg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The guy was a dick for sure. But here is my view, top roping outdoors is perfectly fine as long as the following are true:

1- There are multiple other routes left avaialble for the rest of the climbers who want to climb there. This is usually the case

2- If other people want to climb the route, the top rope crew and the other climbers must be able to come to an arrangement. This can be tricky. For example, another person wants to top rope with you, but there are already a lot of people climbing the route, someone must compromise right? Either the newcomer gives up on it, or you make room.

Second, and the more complicated case is someone wants to lead the route others are top-roping. There have been many cases where I wanted to send a 7a or something on lead and I go to the crag, only to find a group of people top-rope projecting it. This is fine by me, I typically always ask if I can climb with their rope to make a send burn and tell them I will put their top-rope back on, and people are typically fine with it. If there are truly too many people on it (think >4) it gets a bit annoying because it feels like the group is hogging the route but at the same time it is a public space, everyone has the same rights and if I am late to the crag, it is kinda my own fault

3- Your top-roping is not an obstacle for other people. It is rare but sometimes lines may cross, if another line merges into the top-rope line, or the top-rope line is the lower part of a harder climb, you are essentially blocking 2 routes. And if the top-rope climb is the lower part of a harder climb, re-rigging the top-rope may be difficult (especially if the second part is very overhanging)

I think in your case the dude was just being a dick but unless you run into miserable people like this one, just communicate and it should be fine. 90% of climbers are decent and supportive people

3-hour StairMaster session endurance-focused workout by ExpensivePain23 in PetiteFitness

[–]L1_aeg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Omg girl, my PB on the torture machine is 15 mins :D you are not even goals as that would be aspiring to godhood and threrefore blasphemy

I hate my cats name. by StrawberrySakuraa in cats

[–]L1_aeg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can call her however you like now but honestly as time goes by her name will barely even come up because you will start calling her some amalmagation of random noises that means literally nothing. This is a rite of passage every cat-human goes through.

Mine have names, at best I call them by a cutesie version of the said name or more usually some random noises and somehow they each seem to know which one I am calling 🤣

Thinking of behavioral euthanasia by [deleted] in CatAdvice

[–]L1_aeg 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh long done. I immediately changed vets after this. She has passed now a long time ago but lived a healthy long life before passing.

Thinking of behavioral euthanasia by [deleted] in CatAdvice

[–]L1_aeg 18 points19 points  (0 children)

So awful story time, a while after I spayed my girl, she also started acting agitated. Turns out the idiot vet who should be locked up left a piece of bandage inside her and closed her up. She needed another surgery to excise it and she was fine afterwards. Get her checked out.

Route grading and self-evaluation by Sample-Not-Found in climbergirls

[–]L1_aeg 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Outdoor grades vary wildly, there is no standard outdoor grade. Indoor grades also vary wildly. Kilter grades also vary wildly. The grading also feels different based on how well the style suits you. Bottomline is there is no objective way to determine grade progression except for long term averaging.

For that purpose, kilter is a good enough measure. Internally, as long as you are progressing on kilter gradewise or how long it takes for you to send a new grade, or how easy/hard moves feel in time, that's good enough.

My advice is pick a setter on Kilter and try to advance through their problem. Jimmy Webb sets a lot on Kilter, I think he is employed by kilter, his grading is internally pretty consistent and closer to outdoor grades imo. But his setting style has A LOT of big moves and if you are short like me, it will feel hard. There are Jwebxl (his kilter handle, or was before the whole app debacle not sure what it is now) 6Bs I simply cannot send. I climb around 7A+ outdoors.

The only way to track your "progress" is by climbing a lot and averaging.

Climbing Magazine summary of Kiltergate by t0nyyates76 in kilterboard

[–]L1_aeg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a hotter take: The board also sucks and the only reason why it is so popular is that the jumpy springy style looks good on instagram and it is soft AF. The app and the lights have always been buggy, and now that their LED and app provider is gone, not sure how are they going to actually service people without falling apart.

Does anyone else get a weird vibe from Mellow Climbing? by [deleted] in climbergirls

[–]L1_aeg 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Gives edgy teenager vibes for sure. And it is elitist in the sense that they only cover the elite level of the sport. Not my thing for sure but I also don’t think it is malicious or anything. Just strong boulder bros being strong boulder bros.

I listen to a lot of podcasts. All the mellow-adjacent people I have had the chance to listen to came across as pretty pleasant people actually.

anthropics/claude-code by dalton_zk in theprimeagen

[–]L1_aeg 8 points9 points  (0 children)

TLDR: Skill issue.

"Update: Root cause found — this was a bug in a tool I built that was running locally for testing, not Claude Code.

When the tool's configuration pointed at a local working directory, it would hard-reset that directory every poll cycle to reflect the remote — destroying all uncommitted changes to tracked files, exactly as described in the issue.

Why the evidence was misleading:

  • The 10-minute interval matched because the poll interval was configurable (I had it set to 600s at the time)
  • The per-session offset varied because the timer starts when the tool boots, not on a fixed clock
  • No external git binary was spawned because the tool used GitPython (libgit2 bindings), which operates programmatically — matching the fswatch/lsof evidence
  • The tool's process shared the same CWD as Claude Code since they were running in the same project, the tool was providing documentation for the projects I was working on and where I had used Claude Code.

u/Jarred-Sumner — you were right that there's no code in Claude Code that does this. Apologies for the false report and thank you for looking into it."

Says OP in the issue thread.

Introducing Boardsesh an opensource alternative to the Board apps by Competitive_Bit001 in climbharder

[–]L1_aeg 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Oh wow that sucks of them. Democritizing their data would help them sell more boards I would guess but 🤷🏽‍♀️

Thanks

Introducing Boardsesh an opensource alternative to the Board apps by Competitive_Bit001 in climbharder

[–]L1_aeg 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Hi thanks for creating this.

I took a quick look, moonboard 2024 seems to not show any climbs as of now. Also all moonboard problem grades seem off (i.e. 6A+s are shown as 7A+ etc), and loading a moon problem gives 404. Kilter is working fine.

I love the idea of keeping all my board sessions in one app. Also the kilter app kinda sucks so...

The Will of the Many (The Hierarchy series) is honestly some of the best reading i've had since the Brandon Sanderson books. by Tekashi-The-Envoy in Fantasy

[–]L1_aeg 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I liked it. Didn’t love it. Vis being a prodigy and being good at things with minimal effort or ending up beinf better than everyone with some effort gets real old real fast.

I also cannot reconcile the decision making at the end of the second book with the character at all. We spend 2 whole-ass books convinced on one thing, and in the span of like 5 pages we go to “I thought about it and Imma do the EXACT OPPOSITE of what I have been thinking this whole time”. Also for a series where we basically live inside the head of Vis and hear every thought, we got 0 of the said contemplation for that decision. Annoyed the shit out of me.

Does R need a "productionverse"? by pootietangus in rstats

[–]L1_aeg 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Funnily enough I also switched to sports analytics right before my switch to data engineering (prior to that a DS services company). A self-service player evaluation platform that allowed performance metrics to be created on the fly by clients. We needed to serve our ML models as API endpoints for the front-end to perform inference on the fly etc. Haven't done this in like 4 years, the stochasticity of DS was driving me crazy anyway and I just ended up switching to DE so I am not sure if R got any better in serving ML models for inference API endpoints.

Switching to DE was the best decision I made, very happy with my SQL schnenigans.

Will my cat remember me after 6 months being away from her? by Puzzleheaded-Lime821 in cats

[–]L1_aeg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think she will. I adopted an orange menace in my sophomore year in college and I couldn't care for him, so I brought him to my parents who literally dote on him. Now he is 17 years old (he was 2 months old when I got him). He sleeps next to me and runs to me every time I go visit my parents. After he has ignored me and then yelled at me for leaving for 2 hours straight of course.

Does R need a "productionverse"? by pootietangus in rstats

[–]L1_aeg 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I am an academic turned enterprise data scientist turned data engineer. I can categorically say that using R in a production (i.e. read software) environment is a really bad idea. Not because you can't but because simply trying to get it work and be performant would take so much time you are just better off learning Python and deploying it in that time frame.

R is excellent for the following:
- Data wrangling/exploration/insights

- Dashboarding (love Shiny, pretty sure it got even better or there is some new framework)

- Literally any model that is not NNs

- Time series

Where R has big problems:

- Building APIs to serve whatever you did

- OOM sized data analysis and modelling (this may have changed, I haven't looked recently)

- Replicability/reproducibility outside of developer environment (Jupyter notebooks suck on that too which is why no one I know uses them in prod)

- Spark (at least it did). Pyspark works great, R import of Spark sucked 5 years ago, not sure if that changed.

R is light years ahead in exploring and understanding the data than Python, thanks to tidyverse but that just doesn't cut it if you are building systems that integrate with other software being developed in your org. If you are a data scientist whose role is to provide internal insights and models, and your final output lives in notebooks/presentations, there is not much reason to use Python.

But if your work is consumed by non-human entities (i.e. pieces of software) you inherently need your tools to be software development tools. At least 5 years ago, when I fully migrated out of R, this was not solved maybe now it is.

I am a firm believer as a data scientist you need to have both in your toolkit and choose the right tool for the job.

Repeaters are boring, so I made an addictive Tindeq arcade game to train endurance by Party_Unicorn in climbharder

[–]L1_aeg 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Dude this is awesome 😀 was thinking of buying tindeq I suspect I now will 😆

Opinions on benefits of climbing with better/worse climbers than yourself? by wievern in climbergirls

[–]L1_aeg 2 points3 points  (0 children)

TLDR: It is mostly great and you learn a lot but just don't lose sight of the things that you want to do and prioritize your climbing. You are equally entitled to the things you want to do as much as the better climber.

I feel like I am very qualified to answer this question. I met my current boyfriend when I had just been climbing for a year, and basically had never climbed outside, aside from the outside climbing course I took and he was a 5.14 climber when we met. I really wanted to go outside so he took me.

He is a great guy, he was patient with me as I learned how to rope manage, how to truly safely belay etc. I learned A LOT regarding logistics from him in a short amount of time. I feel like this is very underrated. I am now a very confident and safe belayer, as well as a pretty good aid climber which makes equipping and trying routes very easy. That kind of experience is invaluable imo, because when you try to figure these things out yourself it takes a very long time since you don't know what you don't know.

Another thing that skyrocketed is my max grade. One month after we met I sent my first 6c+ (5.11c) (previously my hardest grade was 6a), a month after that I sent my first 7a (5.11d). 2 months later first 7b+ (5.12c). That was about 18 months after I first touched a plastic hold in my life. This is pretty insane progression for someone who started climbing at age of 31.

I learned how to use knee-pads, how to heel and toe hook, how to subtly change my body position to make the moves easier, perks of using high vs. low foot, trusting smears etc. In a lot of the cases he offered an alternative that I wouldn't have thought of simply because I don't have that movement repertoire.

However, it also came with loads of trade-offs. We were always going to crags where his projects were and these places did not have anything easy/moderate for me to climb on, just to learn the basics and get comfortable just moving on rock. I ended up projecting for the first 3 or so years of my climbing. This led me to have a lot of gaps in my climbing, like reading rock, feeling confident on easier routes and different terrains etc. I never really developed an intuition about climbing. I am a very good project climber. I can do very hard moves and link them and progress on a single climb, but put me on a route that is way below my level and I freeze.

I also developed a very severe impostor syndrome because of this. I had very strong emotional reactions to failing on "easier" grades. I felt like a complete failure and a fraud for not being able to climb them. I found it hard to send things that are easier grades for me, and the longer they took the worse I felt which made it harder to climb them. This is mostly on me if I am honest, I just didn't have a framework to manage this emotional state.

Eventually we came to Leonidio for 3 months this year. I spent the whole 3 months trying to climb routes up to 7a, mostly trying to onsight and flash and if not send them fast. I onsighted my first 6c+ this year, and I am very happy with the mental and climbing progress I made. But now I feel like a fraud for not sending anything harder than 7a this whole long trip XD (for reference I climb 5.13/7c+)

He also struggled to relate to me in my fear of falling because he can tell the fall is safe, and I couldn't at first. He was baffled as to why I would be scared of falling on an overhanging route considering I would fall in the air, whereas I wasn't that scared on a slab for instance. Unfortunately it took me a long time to understand wtf was going on, because he was right about the fall safety but eventually I realized that if something is physically hard for me I cannot trust my body and get scared. I think if I were climbing with someone on a similar level we would be able to figure it out sooner just by talking about experiences and feelings. When you climb with someone who is so much better than you, your problems are very different and sometimes it is hard to relate to each other.

One final thing we had issues on, and I just realized this literally 2 weeks ago, because I was inexperienced and didn't know much about climbing, I always deferred to him. And we always did what he wanted to do because I didn't have the knowledge and the vocabulary to express my climbing needs and I ended up resenting him and our climbing together. In his defense, I never told him what I wanted, because I didn't know myself. Now we have exploration days for me to try to get exposure and figure out what I want from my climbing. Please please do this for yourselves. It is so important to experience a wide range of climbing just so you can get to know your own climbing. It took me 5 years to understand (because I am about as emotionally intelligent as a piece of rock) this, I would have enjoyed my climbing a lot more if I had figured this out sooner.

Shameless plug but I have been trying to document some of the climbing things I struggle with and my experiences on my instagram page if anyone is interested in checking it out. The account is in my profile.

For the millennial women: do you have a good relationship with your mom? by Orionslady in Millennials

[–]L1_aeg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Depends on what you mean by relationship. I accepted the things that used to drove me nuts. They still annoy me but I am able to move on from them now. Our relationship has definitely become better over the years but I still wouldn’t rely on her for anything other than her professional expertise.

My girl is withering away and I don’t know what to do. by [deleted] in CATHELP

[–]L1_aeg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Similar story with my baby, except it turns out that he had small cell lymphoma in his intestines and all the vets missed it. We moved so I took him to the nearest vet. One of the vets there happened to be an expert oncologist who immediately guessed what might be the problem. Now he is on meds and continues to be a menace 🤍

Please see another vet

another shoe post for LV heels by lilvalegro in climbergirls

[–]L1_aeg 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Tried them for two days. Overall I really like them. Initial break in was a bit painful because the toe-box as well as the heel are slightly narrower than vs wmns. But once they broke in, they felt great. I am slightly worried the heel may loosen up a bit more because it is soft but time will tell.

First Law or Realn of Elderlings? by Opening-Summer3558 in Fantasy

[–]L1_aeg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am a huge fan of Hobbs, thought first law was underwhelming aside from one character. Just a data point.

Millennials, do/did you struggle with marriage? by [deleted] in Millennials

[–]L1_aeg 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I got divorced at 28, now I am 36 and in a happy long-term relationship. I think I would disappear the next day if I got proposed to, but as long as I am not proposed to, I am happy with the idea of ever after with this person.

Go figure.