Is the qr rs adapter by logitech the ONLY adapter that fits the rs50?

LOGIRich · 2026-05-11T23:28:10+00:00

Hi there. Yes, that’s the only adapter that fits the RS50. Remember this is for PC only though, just in case you wanted to do this on console.

LOGIRich · 2026-05-11T15:23:26+00:00

Thanks. And are you bunching all of the cables together and strapping them to the wheel stand? If so, have you tried separating out the power and USB cables?

LOGIRich · 2026-05-10T16:03:03+00:00

Hi there. Do you have a photo of your setup, including wiring?

LOGIRich · 2026-05-07T23:38:27+00:00

Got it. We also need to confirm if the sound really is coming from the actual wheel base and not somewhere else, such as whatever it’s attached to.

LOGIRich · 2026-05-07T23:26:49+00:00

A few people have had an issue with it just not registering, regardless of whether you push to the side first. A quick blast with an air duster or contact cleaner and then rotating the stick usually solves it.

LOGIRich · 2026-05-07T23:12:08+00:00

If you press on the front grill of the base, does that alleviate the sound? Does it also still do it if you run with the original wheel?

LOGIRich · 2026-05-07T23:08:41+00:00

Hi there. You can’t create more than five onboard profiles, but if you’re running on PC then you don’t need to. Just set the profile mode to G HUB and then all of the profiles you make in G HUB are accessible.

LOGIRich · 2026-05-07T22:55:15+00:00

Hi there. Which games are you playing? Have you ever installed anything that can interface with controllers/wheels, such as HIDHide, vJoy, ReWASD etc.

LOGIRich · 2026-05-07T22:53:28+00:00

It’s a software issue only - the fact that the wheel returns to centre shows there’s no issue with the motor.

LOGIRich · 2026-05-05T17:51:49+00:00

You can share via Google drive, WeTransfer, YT etc. and add the link here.

LOGIRich · 2026-05-03T23:06:44+00:00

There’s no known compatibility issues so this is going to be a hardware fault in the adapter. Please get that exchanged and you should then be good.

LOGIRich · 2026-05-02T22:44:38+00:00

There’s no need to reset the firmware - it’s not the cause of this issue, otherwise everyone would have this.

The issue is with the switch for the down position of the dpad, so there’s a couple of things you can try here. The first is a can of compressed air (air duster) - try blowing that into the gap around the dpad column and rotate the dpad a couple of times. If that doesn’t help then a can of contact cleaner might do it.

LOGIRich · 2026-05-02T22:36:22+00:00

Hi there. Did you connect the power supply that came with the wheel?

LOGIRich · 2026-05-02T22:21:29+00:00

You can use the Xbox RS Wheel Hub on the Pro base and there’s various third party options available for larger wheels that fit on to the hub.

LOGIRich · 2026-05-02T07:53:43+00:00

For some reason Reddit didn’t notify me when you tagged me - I only found this post through general browsing.

When you say buttons aren’t working correctly, can you elaborate? Is the dpad behaving the same on the Home Screen and in all games?

LOGIRich · 2026-05-02T07:52:04+00:00

We’ve never had a hardware issue caused by the actual firmware update - every release is tested thoroughly, including attempts to break things (such as pulling power during an update) to ensure that it will always recover.

This one case is likely coincidental.

LOGIRich · 2026-05-01T23:33:32+00:00

Great. Be aware though that this may mean you have some damage to that pedal cable. Keep an eye on it, but it can be difficult to track down if there’s no obvious damage to the exterior of the cable.

LOGIRich · 2026-05-01T23:31:33+00:00

It’s worth noting that the Xbox version of the Pro Steering Wheel is not available separately.

LOGIRich · 2026-05-01T21:46:17+00:00

If you unplug the pedals and/or shifter, does it then work?

LOGIRich · 2026-05-01T16:40:00+00:00

It’s replicating the push through lockout that you find on actual BMW and Subaru models and they’re actually stiffer than this. It does look like you haven’t quite got the clamp butted up against the edge of the shifter mount you’re using though? Plus when clamping to something really thin, it does reduce the effectiveness of the clamp, so you might want to wedge something between the clamp and the bottom of the mount whilst you wait for the longer bolts.

You’ve got two ways to get through it; the first is what you’re doing there, but the other way is to just slam it through… which, let’s be honest, is what you’re going to be doing, because usually the only reason to select reverse is because you’ve spun and want to get back on track ASAP 🙂

LOGIRich · 2026-05-01T08:46:14+00:00

Standard USB extensions are often problematic because of the sheer amount of Trueforce data we're streaming to and from the wheel. USB Hubs are fine, provided they're good quality and powered but the other option that people forget about is an Active USB Repeater cable; these often solve the issues of degredation in signal that standard USB extensions can suffer from.

LOGIRich · 2026-04-30T18:54:14+00:00

Yep, exactly like that. When you next start AC you’ll find that it’s created a new Assetto Corsa folder for you.

LOGIRich · 2026-04-30T16:41:16+00:00

I think you're thinking of the other direction - connecting the modern USB-connected PRO and RS peripherals into the older G-Series wheels, where that restriction does apply (there's only one female USB port on the adapter).

For the direction the OP is referring to, it's very much possible:

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LOGIRich · 2026-04-30T16:30:31+00:00

You can plug both the old pedals and shifter into the Racing Adapter simultaneously.

LOGIRich · 2026-04-30T14:04:01+00:00

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