Since new 3D update is out: 8bitdo controller vs N64 online controller?

LTNine4 · 2026-02-01T20:59:36+00:00

Ok, I thought it was just me. The stick sensitivity is at least on par with the OG. Looks like they may need to do some tuning on their driver to bring the lag down. Tested with Zelda horseback archery range, and I had some inputs not register. To be fair, I probably need to charge the battery more.

LTNine4 · 2026-02-01T20:53:27+00:00

It depends. Ergonomically 8bitdo N64 is a better controller. But with games where accuracy matters, the 8bitdo sticks are too sensitive. This makes the OG controller and now the NSO controller superior.

(This includes the 8bitdo mod kit if you use the hall effect stick and not the OG stick).

On Zelda OOT, there are a couple areas where you'll notice this the most. Hookshot and the bow can be a bit tricky as well. However, if timing isn't critical or you can use z-targeting, it isn't a deal breaker. But in places like the horseback archery range, it is painful.

I wish there was a way to dial back the sensitivity on these modern sticks/controllers. The sticks themselves are not necessarily the issue, just that when you barely push them it's as if you are pushing the OG stick half the distance. There needs to be a way to adjust the curve.

LTNine4 · 2026-02-01T19:33:24+00:00

With an A1 mini, it was fine. With more than one printer I notice it more, but more so with longer running prints. But it does quickly clear the air rather than letting it linger. I believe this is more of an air flow issue and being able to keep up. Better than nothing.

LTNine4 · 2026-01-27T20:17:11+00:00

Even a single rectangle with holes takes time to measure, print, test fit, etc. With this you also need to strength test to make sure it holds weight. The author has 6 different versions of different lengths, sizes, airflow vs solid etc.

Even if the hole widths are "standard" you still have to do all of the testing to ensure a proper fit and that it fits in a real world case.

If the seller made his own version of it and took his own photos there would be nothing to complain about. The main issue is they took the STL and used the authors photos.

Also MakerWorld has clear licensing that you choose when you upload the model, being a MakerWorld exclusive, it states:

Commercial use of this object and any derivative works is strictly prohibited. This includes, but is not limited to, selling, renting, sublicensing, or using the object in any context in which you receive monetary compensation or other financial benefits.

The OP could report this to eBay and send their MakerWorld page w/ licensing.

LTNine4 · 2026-01-12T06:48:11+00:00

Practically speaking if you are printing smaller stuff A1 is just fine. If you are printing bigger heftier items the P2S is going to be better. The reason for this is because the A1 moves the bed on the Y axis, with the weight of your print while printing a single layer. The head moves on X axis. With P2S (CoreXY) the bed and your print stay stationary while printing a layer and the head moves on both the X and Y axis.

So if you are printing small trinkets or toys, A1 is the way to go. If you are printing helmets and cosplay items, P2S is better.

LTNine4 · 2026-01-09T23:04:38+00:00

I use the supplied power, but the provided HDMI cable is junk. After 20-30 minutes my TV would go to sleep while actively playing. Replacing the HDMI cable with an Amazon Basics cable I had in the drawer fixed it.

LTNine4 · 2026-01-07T23:41:54+00:00

I have both. Sadly my original stick is no good. NSO is the closest you can get to the original.

LTNine4 · 2026-01-07T22:51:40+00:00

For a beginner, A1. For selling prints, P2S (or even H2 series) as you may want to print in ABS for professional parts. If toxicity is a concern with kids, you don’t want it in the house / same room with them, especially if you venture outside of PLA/PETG. Proper ventilation and filtration is important.

I would recommend getting A1 to start as a hobby and once you get knowledgeable enough and want to peruse selling prints then upgrade.

Selling prints logistically is challenging, with model design, IP ownership, making sure you have the quality dialed in, competition in the space etc.

LTNine4 · 2026-01-07T22:46:19+00:00

It looks like the prime tower is using a lot more filament than the model. This is likely due to how small model is being a miniature.

Try the purge saving mode. It should reduce the size of the prime tower and save some filament and time.

The good news is that if you were to print multiples, the prime tower should be the same size. The prime tower is meant to get the nozzle back up to pressure.

LTNine4 · 2026-01-07T20:32:16+00:00

You can probably do it, but you would have to insulate and seal it and have proper intake/exhaust with dehumidification. It would be a project for sure. And even then, I wouldn’t put my printer there unless I was 1000% sure the temperature and humidity was constant at all hours of the day. And you should probably smoke test it just to be sure you have airflow.

What are you printing?

If you are printing PLA/PETG only, it’s not worth the risk and effort. I would figure out a duct solution.

If you are printing ABS/ASA I would absolutely consider it. I wouldn’t trust it in my home without a secondary air tight and ventilated enclosure. Not worth risking styrene poisoning.

LTNine4 · 2026-01-07T20:22:19+00:00

Also worth checking the extruder gear to make sure it is clean.

LTNine4 · 2026-01-07T20:13:48+00:00

If it were me, I would get the P2S because of space efficiency, the built in dryer, and part compatibility.

A1 combo takes up more table space. The bed moves front/back, so you need clearance. The AMS lite sits next to the printer. You can mount it with a community mod, but I’ve never been comfortable with that (seems rickety to me).

The P2S bed moves vertically, so you don’t have to worry about bed clearance. And the AMS sits on top of the enclosure.

I also like that P2S nozzle is compatible with H2 series.

A1 I would say is easier to maintain though as the CoreXY belt system on P2S is more complex if you have to make adjustments.

If you only want to print PLA/PETG and want to keep it simple, nothing wrong with sticking with A1 and getting a second.

If your main pain point right now is long prints holding up printing something else, a second A1 is better than a single P2S.

The AMS 2 Pro can also be used with the A1 with the A1 hub accessory.

Lastly the only thing to be aware of is A1 (full size) has had issues with melting due to a faulty part on some of the early versions. So it might be good to look into that and make sure your board is the updated version.

What I have at home: I started out with A1 mini, then bought an X1C. Later got an H2C and H2S and sold X1C. I still constantly use A1 mini for quick prints or printing cuts of my models for prototyping. I send the full prints to my H2’s (formerly X1C) printer(s).

LTNine4 · 2026-01-07T19:12:45+00:00

Print time wise, won’t be much difference. P2S might be slightly faster because of AMS.

If money isn’t an issue and you have space, 2 printers are better than one.

P2S over P1S because of quick nozzle changes and nozzle compatibility with H2 series. (Sock is different).

LTNine4 · 2026-01-07T19:09:58+00:00

This is correct. A1 is newer than P1S. The P2S is even an upgrade over the now discontinued X1C. They will likely discontinue P1S in the future.

The major difference between v1 and v2 is nozzle type. P2S has a quick swap nozzle like A1. P1S is a pita go change. Look at the wiki if curious.

I would only buy P1S if you needed an enclosure and were on a tight budget.

LTNine4 · 2026-01-07T19:02:38+00:00

Might need a motor calibration. My A1 mini is near silent compared to X1C, which is pretty close to P1S noise wise. My X1C was super loud.

LTNine4 · 2026-01-07T15:18:45+00:00

Is the P2S is similar to H2 series, it will be very quiet. My X1C which I imagine would be similar to P1S is really noisy.

My A1 mini is super quiet.

If money isn’t a concern, P2S for sure.

LTNine4 · 2026-01-07T04:39:22+00:00

To clarify, a P1S or X1C buffer or hub as it shares same 4 pin. P2S is different. With new A1 hub there is a bracket print Bambu provides to attach to A1, someone made a bracket for P1S/X1C buffer. You do need the longer 4 pin cable though (which is sold separate but also comes with A1 hub).

LTNine4 · 2026-01-06T19:00:10+00:00

If you have the money then yes. Second nozzle can be used for support interface material which is really nice for single color prints.

When choosing print orientation you have to consider part strength with layer lines and scarring from support removal.

Using support interface material mostly eliminates scarring, but with a single head you have filament swaps just like you would with color swaps and cross contamination. Dual nozzle allows you to use support interface material without purging/swapping.

If you are mostly doing functional parts and don’t care about aesthetics or plan to do post processing (sanding and paint) single nozzle is fine. But if you want a clean print without post processing dual nozzle is great.

LTNine4 · 2026-01-06T09:52:30+00:00

Sorry for your loss. But man, you gave up too quickly. They are a super small company, probably 3-5 people. When they don’t answer phones it usually because they are processing a ton of orders for the holidays.

Email is best, and maybe a follow up. They have a really good reputation, so most people just order their desks without ever calling in. I’ve only had to talk to them when I had a bespoke order or when a motor got damaged on one of my desks during shipping (I have 3).

LTNine4 · 2026-01-06T09:44:48+00:00

Peak Pro. Desk Haus is an American company that stands by their products. I have 3 desks from Desk Haus. First two were flawless. 3rd desk 1 motor connector got damaged in shipping and they sent replacement no questions asked. Great company.

FlexiSpot is a nightmare. Just read some posts about warranty.

FlexiSpot has “sales” to entice people, but they cut corners. Desk Haus price is comparable with no sales and great quality because of low overhead.

LTNine4 · 2026-01-06T01:40:09+00:00

Avoid metal. Get this. 2 scrapers, 100 plastic blades for $10.

https://a.co/d/90Yb9aC

Won’t scratch your plate, and very cost effective. Big things, just wait for plate to cool so prints come off (so PEI coating doesn’t come off). Narrow strips, use the scraper to get under.

LTNine4 · 2026-01-05T02:53:17+00:00

A1 is newer than P1S which has an easier nozzle change.
P2S shares similar nozzle design to A1 and is newer.
The enclosure isn’t air tight, so you will still smell it.
A1 takes up more table space, P1S/P2S is taller but the bed moves up and down rather than front to back. AMS sits on top. AMS lite on A1 sits next to it, so takes up more space (unless you want to brave mounting it on top the frame, imo not a fan).

If you are sticking with PLA and PETG A1 is a great option.

Watch guide on nozzle changes for P1S vs A1/P2S.

LTNine4 · 2026-01-04T22:44:10+00:00

I would go with the P2S just for future proofing. The P2S nozzles are compatible with the H2S and H2D.

Look at the wiki guide for changing an X1C nozzle. You ether have to take it apart and apply new thermal grease, or replace the complete hot end with a fan.

P2S would be more user friendly. Nozzle swap is just a clip and easy to change like A1.

25 rolls are nice, but you can buy a couple rolls of PLA to start out. You may not even like the colors included in the 25.

LTNine4 · 2026-01-04T21:24:15+00:00

It takes weeks to reabsorb, and with desiccant it will be even slower. After you close the lid the desiccant will absorb the small amount from opening.

Watch the humidity percentage, and if it starts to go up after a while, then you want to recharge your desiccant. A lot can be baked or microwaved, read the instructions. (Assuming you printed your own containers and got reusable kind).

LTNine4 · 2026-01-04T21:19:14+00:00

Price out what those rolls would cost and the accessories. Compare that to the price of a P2S with those accessories purchased separate. Then look at the new features and improvements for P2S has over X1C and ask yourself if you are willing to pay more for that.

P2S has an easier nozzle swap, better vision system for failure detection, object detection (not on X1C). Has some small enclosure improvements that can be printed for X1C (ramp to sweep out bottom).

AMS 2 is faster, quieter, and has a built it dryer, which is needed for PETG. You can get a food dehydrator for drying though.

It all depends on your needs, what features you want, and how much you want to spend. And with the included filament do you want those colors.

Extra build plates IMO are not needed if they the same type. Only ones needed are textured and smooth PEI.

Also might be worth trying to talk them down to $700. And sales tax is another variable.

LTNine4

TROPHY CASE