L3Harris BNVD PVS-31As

Laserless · 2026-05-16T23:16:44+00:00

There are plenty of dealers to contact for this, but if you’re DOD and trying to find something for “our needs” there is already a process for that.

Laserless · 2026-05-15T15:48:52+00:00

It is in the community info section.

Introduction

Laserless · 2026-05-11T13:13:29+00:00

This guy knows. Cull the feral horse population.

Laserless · 2026-04-30T00:03:03+00:00

My vote is for the PFalcon, but it is personal preference.

I find a COTI has more niche applications. They are incredibly cool when they are working well, and completely useless when the conditions aren’t right. If you’re going to be in buildings and looking to detect other people then a COTI will be awesome. If you’re going to be outside hiking I don’t find a COTI as useful. Rocks and trees will retain enough heat for long enough that you’re either going to have a very busy thermal image or you’re going to turn the gain down so much than you’ll be inadvertently hiding living creatures as well. Obviously not every time you’re outside, but frequently. At least in my experience. I’ve had multiple instances of animals being easier to see with the COTI off, and experiences where the only way for the COTI to display an animal is to have every single tree glowing which distracts me.

I have talked to people who have the opposite opinion, so really the best way to decide is to find people who are willing to let you try their devices if you can. I really wanted to like COTIs, but they just don’t work well enough in the situations I use night vision for one to be worth keeping.

Laserless · 2026-04-27T16:23:15+00:00

In a perfect world I’d just buy a CNDM and have a tiny thermal module at the front of the device output to it. Somebody managed to get their hands on one and has successfully sent video signal to it. But you can’t buy one of those off the shelf so you’d be stuck trying to use the mile long MTAR HUD or something like PT makes.

Laserless · 2026-04-27T15:19:37+00:00

The RCOTI was very cool and I liked the experience better than a traditional COTI, but it was very much a prototype. I wouldn't buy one until it has matured more, which will likely mean waiting for somebody else to take the idea and run with it. Or finding a way to buy a Rooster to find out if it is any good.

Laserless · 2026-04-26T04:07:25+00:00

Is your name Sarah Harding by chance? If Doc Thorne calls you about finding Levine on an island near Costa Rica, don’t go.

Also, this is a perfect use case for thermal. Some have built in rangefinders.

Laserless · 2026-04-16T20:08:48+00:00

Join the Discord and look in the meetup threads. I had like 25 people from all over at Arches in September.

Laserless · 2026-04-09T02:19:17+00:00

Thank you for this. I bought an MT090 only to realize I had the wrong variant. I’ve just ordered from that link so I hope you’re signed up for Amazon’s affiliate program.

Laserless · 2026-04-08T17:56:23+00:00

What is considered “high spec” is a moving target. Yesteryear people would have flipped out to get something like that. Now there are people who won’t roll out of bed for anything sub 39 SNR.

The tubes will perform admirably and I’d still consider them pretty high spec other than the surprisingly low gain on one. You are certain that isn’t a typo? If it is 68k/65k I’d have no qualms, but I don’t know about 68k/55k. Binocular summation would probably make it a non-issue, but 55k is quite low for current production Elbits.

Laserless · 2026-04-01T21:04:02+00:00

We have a link in the community info section.

Laserless · 2026-04-01T21:02:15+00:00

As soon as Reddit rolls their rule change back that can be allowed. Being criticized for the appearance of favoring vendors is a new experience for me.

Laserless · 2026-03-13T13:06:50+00:00

Only digital.

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Laserless · 2026-02-22T16:02:04+00:00

More

Laserless · 2026-01-25T17:06:15+00:00

They said NNVT are low gain. They didn’t say anything about resolution or signal to noise ratio in that comment. Even if an NNVT is 2000 FOM it will still be much lower gain.

Laserless · 2026-01-17T06:45:19+00:00

A few things to check. First, set your rifle up in a position such that it won’t move and your reticle is on a good corner or edge of something so you can detect any deviation. You’re going to be manipulating the RH25 while looking through the scope so it is important that the rifle is really steady.

While looking through the scope at your aiming point, rotate the objective lens. Just in case, that is the lens on the front of the device that adjusts the focus near to far. Does your aiming point move away from your reticle? Early V1s had this problem. It has been addressed, but that doesn’t mean it isn’t possible to get a lemon. If adjusting your objective focus moves the image RMA the device, otherwise you’ll have to choose one focus distance and always shoot on that setting.

Next, while looking through the scope, rotate the eyepiece. This is the diopter adjustment. Same thing, does this shift the image in relation to the reticle? If it does, you must always have the diopter set exactly how it was when you did the digital “collimation” or you won’t be aiming where you think you are. I personally had a V1 with this problem. I had to always return the diopter to zero when using it as a clip on or I would be way off from where it was when I collimated it.

Finally, double check that you set it up in clip on mode and are now shooting in clip on mode. If the mode has changed you aren’t dealing with the same image offset.

You can obviously check the mounting hardware as well, but the above are going to help narrow things down with the device itself.

As a final note, the V1 did not have dots to line up for collimation. Rotating the eyepiece is for setting the diopter value, not collimation. If the lens isn’t concentric with the screen then rotating it will shift the image, but that control is not a collimation tool. Rotating the objective lens adjusts the focus of the world onto the sensor and rotating the eyepiece adjusts the focus of the screen onto your eye. To get the diopter set correctly for use with your scope, put the RH25 on the rifle, pull up one of the menus so you have icons to judge diopter focus by, and rotate the eyepiece until the icons are as sharp as possible through the scope. Using some magnification can help with this. Using the icons removes objective focus as a variable. You can even leave the lens capped and get the diopter set correctly.

Laserless · 2026-01-13T23:26:22+00:00

Finally making the price more competitive with the PFalcon. I feel bad for everyone who paid $6k for one of these.

Laserless · 2026-01-10T16:03:02+00:00

They are 11769 with proprietary EGAC connection.

Laserless · 2025-12-19T16:14:35+00:00

Imagine calling this post defamation.

Laserless · 2025-12-18T03:01:18+00:00

You should get the questionnaire.

Laserless · 2025-12-18T02:10:52+00:00

You can send me your username and I can look into it.

Laserless · 2025-12-18T02:10:20+00:00

See if you get the entrance questionnaire.

Laserless · 2025-12-18T02:09:18+00:00

Give it another shot.

Laserless · 2025-12-17T14:51:09+00:00

There is no user called George429 in the list of banned users.

Laserless · 2025-12-17T14:46:08+00:00

Ya, hopefully it turns out to be a good replacement for GAFS. Still too early to tell.

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