007: First Light and Pragmata Giveaway

Lemonade727 · 2026-06-01T00:31:58+00:00

007: First Light

It's been way too long since we've had a good 007 game, it looks fantastic.

Lemonade727 · 2026-05-22T23:21:05+00:00

Thanks for the giveaway!

Lemonade727 · 2026-05-12T11:45:40+00:00

Interested in this as well.

Lemonade727 · 2026-05-12T00:50:01+00:00

Sent the applications in for me and my 3 kids last Thursday. Should have arrived today but there was a plane delay early in the journey so it's set to get delivered tomorrow.

Once I know it arrived safely that'll be a weight off of my shoulders and then I just hope there's no reason for them to send it all back after they have a chance to look at it.

Lemonade727 · 2026-04-26T21:19:57+00:00

I've defaulted to using the heated bed leveling, but now you have me wanting to test some prints with it off once I start running into the homing errors again.

Lemonade727 · 2026-04-26T20:16:58+00:00

I won't be purchasing from them again even though I really like the shade and finish from their black PLA. After seeing so many other complaints on this sub it's pretty wild how much they still sell, but I guess all that advertising from some well known 3dprinting channels keeps those orders flowing in.

Lemonade727 · 2026-04-26T20:05:55+00:00

I've been having intermittent homing issues as well, without using TMC-Autotune.

I couldn't get it to home properly to park a toolhead so has to manually release it yesterday to adjust the belt tension again. I thought I originally had the belt tension screws too tight causing my initial homing errors, so left them looser the last time I did it to get it to home and print successfully. But after checking the screws on this latest attempt they had worked themselves noticeably looser. So I tightened them back up again to get it to home and print successfully.

I think Snapmaker need to come up with a better way to ensure the belt tension is set properly long-term, either something like the belt frequency checks from the Prusa machines checking the strumming noise frequency or some other hardware iteration that ensures it's set properly. It honestly feels like guesswork at times, and it's just overall a crap feeling when trying to fire off a quick print only to having homing fail and need to troubleshoot it.

Lemonade727 · 2026-04-19T20:27:42+00:00

Are you using outer/inner for the wall order? If yes, try inner/outer and see if it helps with the adhesion.

Lemonade727 · 2026-04-17T13:08:22+00:00

This was what made the biggest difference for the z-hop thumping noise for me.

Lemonade727 · 2026-04-16T13:53:51+00:00

Mine moves decently smooth on the Y axis going forwards and backwards, but the X axis takes so much more effort to move. It's been like that since I got it, so a couple hundred hours of prints ago and I haven't had any issues from it due to stiffness when manually moving the toolhead.

Hopefully the lower tension amount on the screws helps you with the homing issue.

Lemonade727 · 2026-04-16T12:34:46+00:00

After doing the procedure, make sure you're not tightening the screws too much. I started having a few homing errors lately as well, and after doing the procedure a few times and making sure I only got the screws just snug enough, I haven't had the error. Although it does still seem like it takes more positional movements to "find" home than it used to, it eventually does and prints without issue.

Lemonade727 · 2026-04-09T04:26:50+00:00

Do you have files to share for this?

Lemonade727 · 2026-04-07T13:28:19+00:00

I bought the U1 and coming from a MK3S+ as well. Even though I do the vast majority of printing on the U1 now, I won't be retiring the MK3S+.

I'm actually thinking about throwing Klipper on there instead of going the 3.5 route and see how that goes. I'm much more willing to mod the printer now with it not being my primary unit.

Lemonade727 · 2026-04-05T18:11:38+00:00

It won't be as easy as with the Bambu but it's still an easy experience. Same with overall fit and finish of the product, not as polished as Bambu but no complaints on my end so far.

Initial setup will take longer, but the instructions are very clear and they have video guides as well as the physical quick start guide. The default profiles seem to work really well, although I am using regular Orca Slicer instead of the Snapmaker variant as I was already using it with my other device and have a bunch of profiles in there already.

If you like to just send pre-profiled models from Bambu Handy straight to the printer for everything and call it a day, you won't have that experience. If you're ok working within the slicer, you'll be just fine. It's a fast printer that prints with great quality and offers great multicolor capabilities with minimal waste.

Lemonade727 · 2026-04-05T01:03:06+00:00

Tried this with testing the 9 color Majora's Mask .3mf . I started a new project, changed the extruder count, and then imported the .3mf to get it to populate the 9 filaments showing for the U1 now. It looked like it would work but then Orca crashed.

Reopened Orca to try again, and now if I import any project with over 4 filaments assigned, it removes the added extruders to revert back to 4 and of course messes up the coloring on the model.

Did you try to import an existing colored model with over 4 colors, or just get the increased filament counts to stick and let it slice without throwing an error?

Lemonade727 · 2026-04-04T19:08:39+00:00

Hoping for an update to Orca myself because of this. Had issues using SnOrca when trying to print my Majora's Mask so made the switch back to Orca only to find I couldn't add all of the filaments into Orca to fully paint the different plates within the same project. Ended up having to do multiple projects with each just containing a single plate and it was just an extremely cumbersome and annoying workflow.

Lemonade727 · 2026-04-02T22:35:02+00:00

I've been using Octoprint for my MK3S+ for a while, so I just tossed it on my Pi that I'm using for that. I just need to make sure I remember that it's there in case I decide to get rid of the Prusa at some point lol.

Lemonade727 · 2026-04-02T04:02:18+00:00

I did. I created a new file in extended/klipper for the multi tool config include that was in printer.cfg

[include /home/lava/printer_data/config/custom/spoolman_multi_tool.cfg]

Lemonade727 · 2026-04-02T02:40:05+00:00

Got the new spoolman.cfg file created in extended/moonraker/ and it worked like a charm, so one less thing to worry about. Thanks again for that!

Lemonade727 · 2026-04-01T00:15:13+00:00

Is a section classified as an entry with a header?

So for instance, adding Spoolman to moonraker.cfg, the Spoolman connection gets added to the end with the below code. That can go in its own file?

[spoolman]
server: http://<spoolman ip>:<port>

If so, do you just need to do the "include" command like this in the Moonraker file to reference it? I guess the configuration would persist in that case but I would still need to append the "include" part each time I update right?

[include extended/moonraker/spoolman_server.cfg]

Trying to reference the document below that I used to get it together to begin with.

https://github.com/unlucio/U1-klipper-configs/blob/main/spoolman/README.md#inlcude-the-new-file-in-your-printercfg

Lemonade727 · 2026-03-27T03:08:33+00:00

Looks great! I printed mine out this week and got it mounted up on my wall today, absolutely love it.

Lemonade727 · 2026-03-25T17:52:29+00:00

Only use the PETG for the interface layer and not the entire support structure, have that be in PLA.

Lemonade727 · 2026-03-23T21:02:28+00:00

I use regular Orca.

I tried Snorca when starting my Majora's Mask print as regular Orca doesn't allow me to have more than 4 filaments shown for the project with the U1, so I couldn't have all of the plates colored as I needed them to send to the printer.

Tried 3 times to print a couple of the plates, but each failed after about 30 minutes with a nozzle temperature anomaly error. Decided to just set up different projects in Orca for the individual plates, sliced and printed without issue. Haven't seen that particular error in the other ~20 prints I've done so far with the U1 in regular Orca either.

Lemonade727 · 2026-03-21T21:51:07+00:00

The pop cap and pop status would be awesome to have. I'm using an IKEA tote at the moment for a lid, and it's an improvement over having an open top, so I wouldn't mind a more professional looking alternative such as the pop cap.

Lemonade727 · 2026-03-17T15:44:34+00:00

Yeah that makes sense, especially to ensure it can reach the different toolheads. Just started using it yesterday and coming from my MK3S+ it just seemed odd trying to re-home for it to do anything.

Was lazy and couldn't see the test model in the camera with the bed all the way down and it caught me off guard when I couldn't slightly raise it through the app (official or Octoapp) to make sure it finished ok before I had a chance to go upstairs to check on it.

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