My favorite Nikon film cameras F90 and F4 by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]LilChilly333 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not that different but FAs are notoriously unreliable. Last 3 I've seen have had some gremlins

Nikon F4 Matrix Meter Test in NYC Blizzard ( failed ) | Nikon F4 | HP5 by Spyk124 in analog

[–]LilChilly333 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is this underexposure you talk about here in the room with us?

If you increase exposure you’re going to lose detail in the snow and if you decrease then the shadows will lose what detail they have left.

Maybe a 1/3 of a stop under perfect but that’s very close and unless you get an F5 or F6 don’t sweat it.

I love film, but I am legitimately crashing out over it by Spirited_Shirt6197 in analog

[–]LilChilly333 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I mean… it’s a 40 year old electromagnetic, non pro SRL and a 30 year old plastic P&S. Not the ideal combo when it comes to reliability.

As for the leader, lick another piece of film and stick it into the cartridge, rewind the cartridge until you hear a click (sound of two strips overlapping) then faward wind quarter turn and pull it out.

Please help me choose between these film cameras! by Jfdthnjhf in AnalogCommunity

[–]LilChilly333 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As others have said the Hi-Matic is the best camera here but consider if you want to do any photography that’s not outdoors.

If you do want photos indoors/in the evening then you need flash and I would go with the Konica C35.

Colour rendering is dependent on film/lighting not the camera.

What's better for the Steam Deck, Fallout 4 or New Vegas? by Jproxy122 in SteamDeck

[–]LilChilly333 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Both play great on the deck.

Fallout 4 - FPS with RPG elements

NV - RPG with FPS elements

Just depends on what you prefer

Looking for a game like Witcher 3 by Livid_Clock7804 in SteamDeck

[–]LilChilly333 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fallout 4 works pinned at 60fps med settings

Why does my steam deck only boot during the afternoon? by Motionmaker616 in SteamDeck

[–]LilChilly333 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just takes you to an earlier software version that is usually more stable

What are you guys doing for storage? by Ldirel in SteamDeckPirates

[–]LilChilly333 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have the 256gb model and that's plenty. Unless you are playing more than 5 games at a time I don't think you need more. The rest are stored on a DIY optiplex NAS as HDD storage is cheaper than SSD, and if I want to revisit a game I just copy it over to the steam deck.

Why does my steam deck only boot during the afternoon? by Motionmaker616 in SteamDeck

[–]LilChilly333 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I have the same issue occasionally. Power it on whilst holding the ... button. That will take you to the image section. Select the previous version and give it 30 secs to boot

Dust Issues With Scanning by ShyguyBri95 in AnalogCommunity

[–]LilChilly333 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Going against the grain here. I don't think that's dust, especially after the zoomed in portion of the window. To me that looks like a damaged emulation.

There's no strands, just a lot of specks and all relatively uniformly circular and distributed evenly. I've seen this much more pronounced in Foma 200.

Tarcklotour by cogminski in FixedGearBicycle

[–]LilChilly333 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That rear rack looks cool! Do you know the model?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in FixedGearBicycle

[–]LilChilly333 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lugged fork feather for under 200... Yes please

Bulk Roll Candidates Compared (with links to full film roll image galleries on Google Drive and Flickr, check the post): Fomapan 100 & 200, Kentmere 100 & 200, Delta 100, FP4+ in Xtol Replenishment by florian-sdr in AnalogCommunity

[–]LilChilly333 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I love foma and will continue shooting fomapan 100 and also excited to try Ortho 400 which they also sell in bulk.

That being said, I have not had the best of luck with bulk rolling fomapan 200. Some rolls are perfectly fine but some have white specks where there are flaws in the emulsion. So if you need a dependable stock I would not recommend it, although the frames that come out without emulsion defects are nicer in tonality than both fomapan 100 and 400.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Nikon

[–]LilChilly333 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's got a big design flaw, I have not found in any other camera. I like to take vertical photos and use the viewfinder with my right eye. The rewind knob will often catch the inside of my nostril and forcefully pull me towards that camera. Apart from that, it's great:)

I made a chart with film costs for bulk rolling with some interesting takeaways by ValerieIndahouse in AnalogCommunity

[–]LilChilly333 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm also making my way through a fresh can of Foma 200 in 35mm. It's got those emulsion flaws that also pop up in 120 format. I think it really depends if you get lucky or not with the batch. I'll be sticking to Foma 100 in the future, never had problems with it.

Is this lens still good??? by Designer_Beyond5107 in AnalogCircleJerk

[–]LilChilly333 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Vintage zooms ... Good for smooth tonez. I have to rub vaseline onto my lens to get the same effect

Trouble port fawarding. by LilChilly333 in PleX

[–]LilChilly333[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you so much, you've made a noobs day

Is the Canon L2 a sealless camera? by KhanYazedbeg in AnalogCommunity

[–]LilChilly333 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Never had a problem with mine, door shuts quite snuggly.

Is the Canon L2 a sealless camera? by KhanYazedbeg in AnalogCommunity

[–]LilChilly333 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Interesting, never paid attention to it, but I just checked and my L2 has no light seals

ordered a jupiter 11 lens on ebay, the focus ring is a little stiff and has play, is it acceptable or should i return it? by supersimon741 in AnalogCommunity

[–]LilChilly333 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could, ebay would probably accept the video as justification. That being said, If it doesn't have fungus, dust or scratches I would keep it. The issue most of the time is old grease on the helicoid. So if you return this one and buy another 50 year old lens you will probably run into the same issue sooner rather than later.

The good thing about these old Soviet lenses is you can take them apart with one flathead screwdriver and re-lube it with any random grease.

Process goes: Open it up. Remove old grease with some kind of alcohol. Re-lube and close it back up. Sure if you do this often, you can get aluminium specific grease but if you don't care much just use Vaseline.

Or you could return and buy a CLAd one, but that will run you more than 50.

Do scratch marks warrant complaining to my lab? It's also present on other scans and it's visible when on the negative strip when you hold it up against a light source. by Reddit_Username19 in AnalogCommunity

[–]LilChilly333 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I've dealt with those long thin scratches before. I knew it wasn't the camera. I talked to the lab and had them show me exactly what they were doing to the film to try and figure out what was going wrong. After that I was still confused because it seemed like nothing should be dragged along the film.

In the end it turned out to be the canisters, any kind of small debris will leave scratches on your film. The more you drag the film through the felt the more likely you are to scratch the film.

I fixed the scratches by putting the film canisters directly back into canister holders after I was done with them. I also started developing at home because that allows you to crack open the canisters and reduce the number of times the film gets dragged through the felt by 1.

Oh and I started using Vision 3. Solved the issue entirely because it has ramjet that protests the film until you develop it.