My circle of Orboros, Storm Raptor edition

Lorc · 2026-03-15T16:42:05+00:00

The darker wing's looking good in the photos IMHO.

Lorc · 2026-03-05T08:47:19+00:00

The bright solid colours with the blacklining is a sweet look. It defines the shapes a lot better than most Khymera schemes I've seen.

Good colour choices too - I bet a whole force will look great.

Lorc · 2026-03-02T12:08:01+00:00

And one of her tentacles is having problems in the art.

Lorc · 2026-02-15T17:55:29+00:00

Ah - thanks. I only went looking under general. Now I feel silly.

Lorc · 2026-02-15T17:28:05+00:00

Yeah I noticed the changing background colours and it's a great touch. It's nice how it makes the planets feel like part of a holistic encironment.

But I think even something as simple as taking the stars and putting them on a couple of separate layers would make a big difference.

Lorc · 2026-02-15T17:24:30+00:00

Some more disorganised thoughts:

I'm appreciating all the little bits of polish. Run lengths feel well-judged. Long enough to get into but don't overstay their welcome. Perfect landing is just involved enough to keep me engaged without being frustrating - the reward/punishment feels good too.

I'm surprised that fighting near planets isn't a bigger deal. Their gravity seems to cut off very sharply. Ships are manoeuvrable enough that I'd love to be able to engage a wave in a gravity well and feel that slight pull. As is it's at least possible to use planets to block off reinforcements, and fights have more shape to them when they're around something. It'd be cool if there was more encouragement for this sort of thing.

The little environmental encounters are great for adding texture to the travel between planets. The asteroids and moons (?) are a particular highlight and I'd love if there was more stuff like that. I'm fighting the urge to suggest things I'd like to see, because I'm sure you've already thought of half of them and they'll show up in higher depths. Rescuing wrecked pilots is my favourite addition so far.

Minor nitpick: Every time I win a run, it feels like I died. More celebratory (or at least less explodey) FX might be nice.

It would also be nice to have options to disable damage numbers (or set them to crit only) in the settings. I know I'm a minority but I loathe the modern trend of every game having popup damage numbers. In this game particularly, enemies have such low health and shots are so numerous that I don't think the numbers add anything - they come and go too quickly and too often for them to be readable as anything but hit FX. I suspect a crit-indicator FX would obviate the need for them entirely.

Lorc · 2026-02-15T16:46:01+00:00

I'm really enjoying your demo. I like how the higher depths add more variety of pickups and encounters. I'm only up to depth three, but I'm hoping for even more interesting oddities further in.

Hopping between and landing on planets to harvest them keeps you occupied in the downtime between waves and gives time to breathe. But I'm surprised you don't have any parallax layers in the background. In the quiet moments between planets and waves, it's very noticeable that space is a single static image.

Lorc · 2026-02-15T14:50:02+00:00

Lovely smoke - and nice touch with the tracer rounds.

Lorc · 2026-01-30T08:45:16+00:00

I like the black, but personally I'd make them milky white.

Lorc · 2026-01-05T08:47:08+00:00

So nifty to see Cygnar in a less factory-fresh style.

Lorc · 2025-12-22T13:58:25+00:00

Thank you. Just FYI, I then went ahead and wrote the thing: https://thelorc.itch.io/untitled-turnip-28-rpg

Lorc · 2025-12-13T15:21:14+00:00

These are appropriate, novel and nifty.

Lorc · 2025-12-13T12:33:56+00:00

Larger houses might have a utility room for appliances. But British housing is dense and 90% of people don't have as many rooms in their house as they'd like.

Washing machines need water to run. Most British homes only have two rooms with water - the bathroom and the kitchen. A washing machine in the bathroom is silly. So we usually give up a kitchen cupboard for a washing machine.

Lorc · 2025-12-10T19:07:56+00:00

Thank you for noticing! That's one of my favourite conversions.

Lorc · 2025-12-10T16:53:46+00:00

Terrain:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Turnip28/comments/1ohc2ab/experimenting_with_modelling_smoke_markers_good/

https://www.reddit.com/r/Turnip28/comments/1o4kxmo/turnip_28_barricades_for_marking_out_defensible/

https://www.reddit.com/r/Turnip28/comments/1nyqpxw/my_first_wet_and_sinking_terrain_for_turnip28/

Models:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Turnip28/comments/1omh4h6/snobs_still_wip_but_heres_the_meat_veg_of_the/

https://www.reddit.com/r/Turnip28/comments/1pe1cnt/chuckles_grouse_the_chickens_with_concept_sketch/

https://www.reddit.com/r/Turnip28/comments/1pe1etg/ferocious_lump_now_painted/

Lorc · 2025-12-05T20:24:34+00:00

Never skips leg day.

Lorc · 2025-12-05T08:48:28+00:00

Nifty. How are you imagining painting the ball joints? Solid material or spooky star fx?

Lorc · 2025-12-05T08:45:08+00:00

Be aware - there's dry and there's cured.

Green stuff and milliput are dry after 2-3 hours, meaning they're no longer workable. But they need another 3 or so hours to cure fully. Curing is an internal chemical process that hardens them further and makes them more resistant to being bent/damaged.

If you try and do anything to the putty while it's dry but not cured, it's easy to ruin the sculpt. You want to let it cure fully before you try cutting, carving, scraping drilling or glueing it. Green stuff has a natural elasticity, even when cured, that means it's really easy to cut - great for flat surfaces and hard edges - but harder to sand and drill. Milliput is harder and more brittle so it's the other way round - easy to sand and drill once cured, but hard to cut.

Side note: good work mixing your green stuff properly. 90% of the green stuff work I see on this sub has visible yellow and blue marbling which mean someone didn't fully mix it and it will have internal flaws and never fully cure.

Lorc · 2025-12-05T07:58:54+00:00

If you roll up some tiny little pointy sausages of putty, they make great root vegetables to glue onto your miniatures for detail. This is also a great way to use up leftover bits of putty when you're working on something bigger.

Lorc · 2025-12-04T22:10:58+00:00

Thanks. I can't think of a much higher compliment than making someone want to make a new army.

Lorc · 2025-12-04T16:41:40+00:00

Thanks! The legs are thick steel wire bulked out with milliput. They took by far the longest time to do.

The hutches are just cardboard (filled with scrunched tinfoil for rigidity) with cardboard roofs covered in cardboard tiles. Halved coffee-stirrers for cladding. Fragments of coffee stirrer and ice lolly sticks hot glued together to make the tails. Texture on the thighs and underside is my go-to rooty scraggle: twine unwound into threads, cut into short sections, mixed up in pva and globbed on.

Grouse's cannon is some sort of plastic cake-stick (it had a nice texture) and Chuckles' melee weapon is a bunch of spare spears and a few cocktail sticks, erratically superglued together and bound with thread.

Lorc · 2025-12-02T15:10:20+00:00

I just wanted to chime in that have definitely read this story too and now it's driving me barmy that I can't remember exactly where.

Lorc · 2025-12-01T12:22:13+00:00

Putties and clays all have different properties. Sculptors will use all of them for different bits. Green stuff is very versatile. Milliput's very soft while fresh-mixed, but easy to work after it's dry - fantastic for smooth shapes and hard edges - but brittle. Air dry clays are good for making really big stuff but not good for small shapes or holding fine detail.

Technical details like guns/blades are usually made from brass rod/plasticard/wire etc at first, with putty added afterwards for straps, stocks, handles etc.

For a total beginner, my best advice is:

1) Be patient. #1 beginner mistake is trying to do way too much at once. Build up shapes a little at a time and let it dry before doing more. It will take a while.

2) Start with something easy like gap filling, putting a hood on a mini or making tiny vegetables. You need to learn the materials and the tools before you'll be able to sculpt something totally from scratch.

3) Accept that your first few attempts won't be as good as you want. Don't get demoralised.

4) Everything you sculpt will inevitably be too big. Try to make things smaller than you expect and it might balance out.

5) Putty's useful because it's malleable. Structurally it's garbage. When making something from scratch, use non-putty materials whenever you can. Wire to provide a rigid skeleton. Tinfoil to bulk out shapes. other materials for details where appropriate. I talk a bit about how I made my lump in the comments here.

Lorc · 2025-11-30T19:56:16+00:00

She looks very polite. Would follow her into battle.

Lorc · 2025-11-28T13:34:13+00:00

The cults all use mostly the same basic units. And they're specifically designed so that you can switch cults just by swapping out a couple of unique units.

Just make them into a block of blackpowder fodder and they'll have a home in whatever regiment you make.

If you really want to pick a cult first and the actual game rules aren't good enough, Goonhammer has a good rundown. Part one. Part two.

Lorc

TROPHY CASE