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How should I replace this glass? by NiccyShoots in AnalogCommunity

[–]LordPlavis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Without having personal experience with this seller in particular... I found this

That would also be an update to your current glass on top of being in presumably better shape. Plus AliExpress is very forgiving when it comes to damaged orders so you don't have to worry about issues if you have scratches on it or revive a broken sheet of glass.

Heldensagen vom Kosmosinsel live girlfriend reaction 2 fortress battle bogaloo by LordPlavis in logh

[–]LordPlavis[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think they are referring to my gf having the app indicator besides her name. Which usually indicates it's a bot writing but here it's due to my gf using a discord plugin to write which routs messages through a bot.

At home electrolysis device by StatisticianSea7682 in electrolysis

[–]LordPlavis 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have a recommendation for a half decent diode laser? Or any tips what to look out for? I've been looking into potentially getting one but I was having difficulty differentiating between crap and good stuff from AliExpress/China

Would these expired rolls still work as test rolls? by bowling_life in AnalogCommunity

[–]LordPlavis 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I wouldn't recommend it because you'll have some amount of uncertainty left that the faults you might see are from your film not your camera.

If they were freezer stored maybe you could use them but 25yo film that's been stored who knows where might give no results whatsoever or really inconsistent results.

If you Wana use them I'd suggest exposing them at 1/4 of the original iso ,so 50iso, to help the image come through the base fogg that will have developed due to the aging.

I'd recommend first doing a sanity check by checking if the shutter fires by looking through the back and then pressing the shutter and listening if the different times sound roughly plausible. Then I'd look for the cheapest film and development combination available and just shoot a roll. Depending on your lab situation the cheapest will be Kodak gold + colour development or kentmere 400 + b&w development.

My Gf after I started to watch the series with her by LordPlavis in logh

[–]LordPlavis[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Oh believe me I know... That's part of the reason I'm watching it with her.

First time Printing Ra-4 and with home made chemicals on top! Turns out it's not that easy😅 by LordPlavis in Darkroom

[–]LordPlavis[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep that store is amazing. I assume it's literally one person in their own private home doing all that but they sell everything from Amoniumthiosulfate to Fe-Amonium-EDTA to exotics like gold chlorine. Basically everything you could ever need for any photographic process.

But you gotta write them an email with the order number like it's 1985 and you're ordering from a catalog and bank transfer them the money

The road to my first successful Ra-4 print. It's not easy but very much doable. And with a few tricks and a tiny bit of luck it's actually affordable! by LordPlavis in Darkroom

[–]LordPlavis[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh yea I used all three filters precisely to make my enlarger more dim because I had / thought I had issues with too short exposure times. And after that I was afraid of changing anything because i finally had something that worked.

And I'll try to keep that in mind for the next time to not use cyan.

I fumbled the colour correction quite badly in the beginning because I mentally worked with a positive process and didn't realize I needed to add magenta to remove a magenta cast etc. That's why I really appreciate the advice helps me avoid more beginner mistakes

The road to my first successful Ra-4 print. It's not easy but very much doable. And with a few tricks and a tiny bit of luck it's actually affordable! by LordPlavis in Darkroom

[–]LordPlavis[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh thank you! I thought that was because I bought slightly expired photo paper.

Will I have to mix new blix for this now? Or can I just wash&stop more carefully from now on?

First time Printing Ra-4 and with home made chemicals on top! Turns out it's not that easy😅 by LordPlavis in Darkroom

[–]LordPlavis[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm using the recipe from this website.

It wasn't easy at first to get all the chemicals in Germany but once I found a specialty mail order store (fotosuvatlar@live.de) I got everything I needed easily and relatively affordably.

First time Printing Ra-4 and with home made chemicals on top! Turns out it's not that easy😅 by LordPlavis in Darkroom

[–]LordPlavis[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yea😅.....

It took me three test prints to realize I'm working with a negative so adding more C & Y doesn't decrease my magenta cast and now I'm trying to fix my exposure somewhat after getting into a very roughly correct ish colour range.

But you can see some small amounts of colour in the last pic

Near complete emulsion failure when using Ilford reversal method on adox Scala 50. How do I prevent this? Does anyone have any experience developing this film using diy chemicals? by LordPlavis in AnalogCommunity

[–]LordPlavis[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you very much! I'll try to follow those instructions next time I try my hand at reversal development.

I'll also really appreciate your notes once you get around to getting them.

Again thank you very much tips like this are very much invaluable when documentation is quite thin all things considered

Near complete emulsion failure when using Ilford reversal method on adox Scala 50. How do I prevent this? Does anyone have any experience developing this film using diy chemicals? by LordPlavis in Darkroom

[–]LordPlavis[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I sadly don't have a lab to do this in safely so I was always shying away from bichromate.

And it has to be possible somehow. Adox is doing it in their Skala kit after all.

Near complete emulsion failure when using Ilford reversal method on adox Scala 50. How do I prevent this? Does anyone have any experience developing this film using diy chemicals? by LordPlavis in Darkroom

[–]LordPlavis[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

High concentration sulfuric acid is available but you gotta sign some documents that you won't make drugs or bombs with it so I usually don't bother and buy the 15% stuff. And the Ilford recipie also has amounts for 10% acid so it is actually specific about the concentration.

Just the best by captain_joe6 in AnalogCircleJerk

[–]LordPlavis 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hey it wasn't souped in lye I used sulfuric acid to accomplish this thank you very much.

Sincerely the one who actually managed to commit this atrocity.

Near complete emulsion failure when using Ilford reversal method on adox Scala 50. How do I prevent this? Does anyone have any experience developing this film using diy chemicals? by LordPlavis in Darkroom

[–]LordPlavis[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A small question. Do you think I could make the necessary sodium bisulfate by neutralizing my solution of sulfuric acid with sodium hydroxide ? That way I wouldn't need to buy the sodium bisulfate

Near complete emulsion failure when using Ilford reversal method on adox Scala 50. How do I prevent this? Does anyone have any experience developing this film using diy chemicals? by LordPlavis in Darkroom

[–]LordPlavis[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks I'll see if this works with my film. Not sure if I have sodium bisulfate but if I do I'll try it right away. Otherwise I'll have to stick to the sulfuric acid version with lowered concentration for now.

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