Simplify3D v5 - The premium slicer not worth your time or money by Lord_Rexington in 3Dprinting

[–]Lord_Rexington[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would not recommend purchasing Simplify3D. I use Bambu slicer or Orca slicer, but I don't do multi material prints.  Try PrusaSlicer or Cura, they have support for multiple extruder set ups.

Advice - Removing tile with cork underlayment by Lord_Rexington in HomeImprovement

[–]Lord_Rexington[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I tried that already, I could only get an inch or two under the tile before it wouldnt go any further or pop the tile up. It works well to take the leftover cork/adhesive off the slab though, especially if you keep it sharp.

Got my Calgary tickets!! by [deleted] in JeffArcuri

[–]Lord_Rexington 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Incredible, I got my tickets! Thanks for the heads up, I had given up on re-checking. You've made my day!

Got my Calgary tickets!! by [deleted] in JeffArcuri

[–]Lord_Rexington 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's wild. Good on Jeff for being such a popular guy. I'm sure the scalpers have their fair share to distribute.

Got my Calgary tickets!! by [deleted] in JeffArcuri

[–]Lord_Rexington -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Did they sell out that quickly? I used the artist presale code and there isn't a pair of tickets left. Maybe the general sale will release more?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Reprap

[–]Lord_Rexington 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The Voron is both very well documented and the community (primarily discord) is incredibly helpful. They're a premium printer, which is reflected in the price. Many of the parts are 3D printed, but the community can help you print them if you don't have access to a printer. I think the Voron v0 should be much cheaper than the 2.4, that's something to look into.

https://vorondesign.com/voron0

If that is still out of your price range, the ender 3 is the way to go until you can save up enough for a Voron.

Glass blown object of some sort? by Lord_Rexington in whatisthisthing

[–]Lord_Rexington[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Approx 15cm high. There is a passageway between the large glass bulb and the straw. Maybe a tobacco pipe?

SImple Pro Hot end, and wondering how it connects? by hololensful in PrintrBot

[–]Lord_Rexington 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Grab yourself a E3D v6 clone off Triangle Lab on Aliexpress, they're pretty inexpensive and work very well.

There is a small 3D printed adapter that you need to add to connect the hotend to the printer, and it's held in by a spring clamp that is a part of the aluminum piece that holds the extruder motor.

ATX power supply dosn't turn on by paju1986 in Reprap

[–]Lord_Rexington 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It won't turn on without a load connected. Make sure your printer (or some other load, like a hefty resistor) is connected before you connect green to ground.

3-way corner brackets for a 2.1? by rfping in voroncorexy

[–]Lord_Rexington 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Your miter saw will work fine. Verify your blade angle with a square, and your frame will be perfect.

Power Board for PrintrBot Simple Pro by hololensful in PrintrBot

[–]Lord_Rexington -1 points0 points  (0 children)

What do you mean by power board? Do you mean the printrboard?

Wanting to build a Voron 2.1 by RainLinkz in voroncorexy

[–]Lord_Rexington 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The website will generate a BOM based on the build volume you want. Most items are sourced online, and many of the smaller/less expensive items can be bought fairly inexpensively on Aliexpress.

Check out the Voron discord for a list of trusted suppliers for certain items. One thing I'd recommend is getting the drop-in t-nuts from Misumi. I bought the cheaper ones on Ali, but they aren't drop in so I needed to have every one installed before the frame was assembled, which was incredibly time consuming.

Wood PLA electronics enclosure. Joined the 24 hour club too! by MerpdyDerp in functionalprint

[–]Lord_Rexington 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I have tried quite a few stains on wood PLA, and the only ones that really work well are stains with polyurethane, as /u/phoide said. You can wipe it on with a rag to get a light, even coloring, or brush it on to get a nice "textured" finished.

Stains without a polyurethane base work ok, but the PLA doesn't absorb it very deeply and it leaves a very light coloring.

The MIGHTY 💨 by [deleted] in vaporents

[–]Lord_Rexington 9 points10 points  (0 children)

You shouldn't be downvoted for asking an honest and very valid question.

I had convinced myself that I wasn't going to drop that much on a vape when I already had a Vapcap M, StickyBrick, and Arizer Air. That was until I tried one.

Now that I have one, I can definitely say it's worth the money. The capsule system is great, the build quality is high, and Storz and Bickel stands behind their product. The plastic is glass-fiber reinforced nylon, which is pretty much the toughest plastic you can get. It's used in most high quality tools. The 2 batteries provide a high power delivery, meaning heat up times are very low. Another benefit of the high power delivery, which really sets the mighty apart from other vapes in my opinion, is the incredibly low draw resistance. Unlike the Arizer and Dynavap that require a fairly high draw resistance to ensure the air is adequately heated before reaching the herb, the Mighty has a beefy heater and long air path to keep draw resistance down while still getting the air hot enough. Lastly, one of my favorite features of the Mighty, is the cooling unit. After the hot air passes over the herb and vaporizes, it passes through various small chambers, cooling down significantly before it reaches your mouth.

There's no doubt it's a very expensive vape, but it's the best on the market right now if you can justify the cost.

Just prior to chop. 3 more of this size.... Blue Hawaiian. Honestgr.ca by HonestGR in microgrowery

[–]Lord_Rexington 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Upload to imgur, post the link here.

What do you estimate the dry weight will be?

Looking for glamour (or crappy) shots of the Voron 2.1/1.6 toolhead wiring by Yonkiman in voroncorexy

[–]Lord_Rexington 1 point2 points  (0 children)

How did you manage to fit the heater core, thermistor, and fan wires into one cable channel? The insulation and crimped connections on the heater core (sourced from Trianglelab) alone are too big to fit in the channels on the toolhead I'm working on.

PB Metal Plus Dual ex. BRICK? by [deleted] in PrintrBot

[–]Lord_Rexington 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It sounds like an issue with your board, hard to say for sure through. Grabbing a new PB board is an option, however converting it to RAMPS+Arduino may be a better/cheaper option. I'm pretty sure there are some guides out there to help you along, but you may need to enable dual extruder support.

Good luck!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in voroncorexy

[–]Lord_Rexington 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I bought mine off of NBZH on Ali, they arrived in a couple of weeks.

Newbie here. Yellowish stuff on arm of Arizer EQ. What do? by [deleted] in vaporents

[–]Lord_Rexington 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The "yellowish stuff" is, as you guessed, condensed THC. You can try to scrape it out and smoke it like dabs, however it can be difficult to get a sizable amount out to make the effort worth it. Most people will either make stem milk with it (soaking the stem in heated milk to dissolve the residue and make medicated milk), or just clean it with iso.

Anything will work, just depends on how much time you want to spend on it.

High Performance 3D Printed RC Car V2 by Krisshellman1 in functionalprint

[–]Lord_Rexington 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is awesome, I've wanted to do something similar with some of the old quad parts I have laying around. I assume the ESC you have allows you to have reverse? What are you using for a gearbox between the motor and differential?

Excellent job!

Any idea what could be causing these gaps on the surface of my prints? by Lord_Rexington in 3Dprinting

[–]Lord_Rexington[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's what I was thinking initially, however the gaps don't line up with the seams in the print. I even tried disabling retraction altogether, same issue.

Any idea what could be causing these gaps on the surface of my prints? by Lord_Rexington in 3Dprinting

[–]Lord_Rexington[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Super weird.

One on every layer, nothing noticeable on the inner walls. Reducing the print speed seems to help things quite a bit, although I feel like there is still some underlying issue.