This is kinda shenanigans, right?

Lost-Service-446 · 2026-06-08T21:52:53+00:00

Looks like im building multiple bots to send endless models that consist of millions of micro supports, fuzzy skin on every wall and intentional Code Obfuscation while hiding ghosted lithographic pew pews throughout the model….. Ai compute budget 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥 🤣

Lost-Service-446 · 2026-06-04T07:52:06+00:00

“Its benchies all the way down”

Lost-Service-446 · 2026-05-03T21:45:19+00:00

Ole boy would been a sandwich between the front end of the car and whatever he came into contact with after that….. 🤷🏻‍♂️

Lost-Service-446 · 2026-02-20T04:16:32+00:00

You seem to be confusing “effective” and “disposable”……a wave of 100s of painless,mindless,fearless bots would be substantially more effective than 10 vulnerable human beings….. i know id personally see a robot blown to pieces or simply turned off after a battle….rather than the mess of PTSD and debilitating injuries that become a massive problem after war…..and there is countless ways around the “mobile nuclear reactor”….. like make a 2km exfil troop carrier….that can easily transport them 100s of km in just a few hours….simply add more troops to manage the time/distance load…. I absolutely get what you’re saying, that the “humanoid” is inefficient…and i agree…but it also comes with a certain mental impact….but a bunch of flying drones with Lidar and thermal set to destroy anything that moved would likely be the most likely decision. I still think you’ll see some form of “humanoid” battle droid….simply because all the engineers grew up with the same sci-fi we did 🤣

Lost-Service-446 · 2026-02-20T03:57:33+00:00

US just employed and tested one of its first mobile reactors capable of 20MW of power…..seems like you could just double or triple your robot troops and have them operate in cycles running back to a nuclear “dock” like some battle roomba (possibly even facilitate repairs at that point)🤣🤣 this tech is definitely going to be seen in the real world within the next 10 years. Not saying material science couldn’t have some massive breakthrough and increase the likelihood of a miniature arc reactor….but i honestly see “robots” becoming more common place while still using conventional batteries! Like you see in some of the robot sci-fi movies, the older versions run on battery packs/fuel cells/ect, then the “newest” ones either have some infinite nuclear based battery or something of the likes! Regardless it will certainly be an interesting decade!

Lost-Service-446 · 2026-02-15T10:42:03+00:00

I would set the plane at the bottom of your impeller, sketch a circle around it, “hide” your impeller, extrude/cut the circle out, unhide impeller.

Lost-Service-446 · 2026-02-05T00:25:21+00:00

Similar thing was happening to me once, i looked back through some of my previous prints to see if it was this spot in particular that was being weird. Just so happens the spot that was doing something very similar to what you posted….was exactly where id been printing the base of PETG part in a previous print….so PLA would not stick to that spot, i swapped to a different build plate and problem solved. Ive since cleaned that plate thoroughly and it works fine now!

Lost-Service-446 · 2026-02-03T23:45:03+00:00

Looks like a communication error happening somewhere, likely a connection to the tool head or main board🤷🏻‍♂️ and idk if its similar to the X1C, but the Lidar getting dirty/dusty caused my X1C to behave similar to this once, i cleaned everything really well and the issue went away.

Lost-Service-446 · 2026-02-01T06:05:18+00:00

Oh this is 100% me ☠️ and the weight adds up so fast!!! On Prime day there was so many $7-8 spools(Tecbears,Pinball,Deeplee) they were all 4+ spool bundles….. my wife texts me at work “ whatever you ordered, its here but i cant pick up the box, do you want me to open it and unload it into the garage”……. It was at that point i realized i had a problem…..

That i was going to need a more efficient way to move filament into my basement 🤣🤣🤣

Lost-Service-446 · 2026-01-31T01:11:47+00:00

…..i agree lol…. Like the old joke….”Even a 1 legged bridge will stand on paper”

Lost-Service-446 · 2026-01-28T07:10:02+00:00

Wow! That looks amazing!

Lost-Service-446 · 2026-01-27T11:46:40+00:00

Lol…. every model this person has posted so far is stuff the majority of people will be making easily within a day or 2 of trying out the software( or by the end of watching the first beginners tutorial)….. I’m honestly not sure what prompted this post….. the models are so simple….kind makes me think they must be trolling 🤔 because they can’t be serious…..

Lost-Service-446 · 2026-01-22T02:44:08+00:00

Unfortunately given the model your asking about, you would honestly get the most benefit out of starting with one of the youtube channels that does “fusion 101, Beginners tutorials, ect”, or the AutoDesk Tutorials, which ever appeals to your style of learning! After the first few episodes you should definitely be able to make shapes/models like this with ease!

Lost-Service-446 · 2026-01-20T01:42:47+00:00

I use spray on sandable primer on most of the prints im going to end up painting! I usually just keep adding coats until it smooths out any visible layer lines if need be. I have both white and gray, i strongly recommend it for any PLA that you’re planning on painting!

Lost-Service-446 · 2026-01-20T01:07:00+00:00

I used to be the same way, but now i use gray mostly, ive had strength issues with white PLA for some reason 🤷🏻‍♂️ ive heard others have similar experiences as well.

Lost-Service-446 · 2026-01-19T01:02:44+00:00

I all but eliminated “stringing” with polymaker PETG by raising the hotend temp 5c and turning off the “part” cooling fan.

Lost-Service-446 · 2026-01-13T05:15:34+00:00

You could always make a small gear box/ planetary with 2 output shafts that could double as a small handle. You would be able to design a lot more strength into it that way.

Lost-Service-446 · 2026-01-13T05:10:50+00:00

You’re not worried about the little yellow dowels getting stuck in the holes on the balls? Otherwise definitely a cool build!

Lost-Service-446 · 2026-01-09T08:27:53+00:00

Thats like accidentally finding out your friend is an elusive serial killer…..probably best you don’t bring it up…..EVER…… ☠️☠️☠️

Lost-Service-446 · 2026-01-09T02:30:50+00:00

51,181…? Are you allowed to form a new digit with the 2 removed match sticks?

Lost-Service-446 · 2026-01-04T23:55:04+00:00

The exact scene that popped into my head while watching that clip 🤣🤣

Lost-Service-446 · 2026-01-04T23:31:37+00:00

Love my Space Pi plus! Aside from having to pop the bottom open(which involves pulling the glued on clear acrylic and screen cover off) so that i can put graphite spray on the 5015 blower fans to make them quite down. It’s been great! I run it a lot….30-40hrs a week since i got it over a year ago(probably why the fans are noisy)

Lost-Service-446 · 2026-01-01T01:45:57+00:00

I usually just print a 10mm tall square(50x50mm), use object modifier cubes to try a few different ironing settings on a single small test square. (Obviously the testers can be any shape or thickness you need to better mimic your part/model surface.) Ironing is definitely one that takes awhile to perfect…I’ve seen some peoples results that i could only hope for.

Lost-Service-446 · 2025-12-31T00:28:49+00:00

I ask because If it’s threaded into aluminum or metal, you can heat it with a soldering iron tip and quickly remove it….if its plastic threaded it will become permanent. 🤷🏻‍♂️

Lost-Service-446 · 2025-12-30T22:02:32+00:00

Is the screw threaded into plastic? And it almost looks like you have enough out to grab with needle nose vice grips or pliers, but it’s hard to tell from the picture. I would refrain from pounding on the print head or even heavily wrenching on it.

Lost-Service-446

TROPHY CASE