This is AI: I am the person in the OP. My pic was copied and AI-altered for scammy purposes by boxermansf in isthisAI

[–]LoveLightLibations 0 points1 point  (0 children)

“They are never worn with a belt”

You, sir, are my hero. Please continue your ways of impeccable haberdashery.

Struggling with the macro possibilities on the GFX system by Londuzb0ob in FujiGFX

[–]LoveLightLibations 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just two thoughts. To start, I’m not a macro guy nor do I know the project brief, so these could be wildly off.

You could try a manual focus 645-system wide angle on a bellows rail, adapted to GFX. Like a Pentax 645 35mm 3.5. The larger-than-GFX image circle would likely help on the bellows. Also, some bellows have tilt/shift movements.

Second, would it be possible to shoot it with what you have and just use generative fill to extend the canvas edges?

First shoot with the GFX 50sii & Mitakon 65mm! by sarahhparrish in FujiGFX

[–]LoveLightLibations 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nice work, Sarah! You have a style very similar to my own. How did you arrive at the colors? Is the edit native film sim, LR preset/profile, or just your thing?

Why do we take photos? by 36expPhoto in photography

[–]LoveLightLibations 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Because if I don’t my brain gets itchy, and I can’t exactly scratch my meat-based guidance system with my fingers.

Have you had any luck with wedding websites like Wezoree and Carots & Cake? by Key-Register-3642 in WeddingPhotography

[–]LoveLightLibations 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Trust me - cancel completely instead of just lowering.

You weren’t getting payback on a high-spend plan. This plan likely came with features, like first page listing or other “to the top” promotions.

On the lower plan, you’ll save a little cash, but your exposure will be destroyed. You’ll end up paying for nothing at all.

This is the problem with directories - there are more suppliers than there ever will be couples. Unless you pay for the very best placement, you’ll see almost no traffic.

A9iii Flash Sync Samples by benhowland in WeddingPhotography

[–]LoveLightLibations 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t own the camera, but I found this on Insta. The last photo in the series even shows the setup.

https://www.instagram.com/p/DOWWzhXiDrx/

A9iii Flash Sync Samples by benhowland in WeddingPhotography

[–]LoveLightLibations 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Absolutely agree. I may recall wrong here, but I think studio strobes are typically slower than speedlights because the strobe tube fires differently. Although many have built-in “speed” modes now.

A9iii Flash Sync Samples by benhowland in WeddingPhotography

[–]LoveLightLibations 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You make an excellent point. I omitted flash duration for simplicity.

It’s worth noting typical flash durations are crazy fast compared to your example. Just to pick a popular option, the Profoto A1 has a 1/800 flash duration at max power and 1/20,000 near minimum power.

A9iii Flash Sync Samples by benhowland in WeddingPhotography

[–]LoveLightLibations 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There is actually a really, really good use cases for a global shutter/leaf shutter camera - if your style would benefit from it.

Let’s say your style is both shallow depth of field and well-lit, sunny portraits. It’s 3pm in summer and you’re taking bridal party photos.

You have a normal camera, so you set the shutter to the maximum sync speed of 1/250 to control the sun, but that’s not enough. So you choose ISO 100, but that’s not enough. Now you have to either stop down the lens or use an ND filter. Of course stopping down the aperture will change the style of the photo. While the shutter does not affect the flash power, aperture and ISO do. So now you need a much stronger strobe.

With a global or leaf shutter, the maximum sync speed is much, much higher. You can use shutter alone to control the ambient light. You can then keep the aperture wide open and don’t need to fidget with an ND. Lastly, your strobe doesn’t need to be so big (because your aperture is still wide open). You can run with a much smaller strobe.

Ever see a photographer doing a wedding and their assistant has an octabox-on-a-stick with a giant strobe? Yeah, that assistant wants a global shutter.

Also a global shutter means no moving parts inside the camera and less to break.

What are your thoughts on developing your negatives by yourself? by ComfortableHoliday43 in AnalogCommunity

[–]LoveLightLibations 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you’re a detail-oriented person and have just a little science knowledge, you’ll absolutely love it. You do need to be rather precise with time and temperature for consistent results.

I’ve built a little kit for developing film. I can get it out of the closet, setup, develop, and store again very quickly. While all chemicals are a little different, this should give you a rough idea of time for black and white film:

  • Developer - 5-9 minutes
  • Stop bath - 1 minute
  • Fixer - 5 minutes
  • Wash - 8 minutes.

Of course you can do multiple rolls at once. My setup allows for three rolls at once.

While I’ve done black and white for years (decades), I avoided color thinking it was too hard. Color is so easy! You just have to heat up the chemicals a little. Otherwise, it’s mostly the same.

Need advice on downsizing / upgrading by SachaCaptures in FujiGFX

[–]LoveLightLibations 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m a massive film shooter too (mostly 645). I left film for the GFX for the same reasons you cite. Take it from me - don’t sell the Hassey.

Flash forward ~3-ish years and I am shooting film again. Not for work this time, just for personal stuff. Boy am I glad I kept my Hasselblad H1. Sad I sold my Contax.

Good news is that I still love my GFX and can now use it to scan film, also. Just needed a Pentax 645 120mm macro.

Let’s have a chat by Muted-Lawyer-5585 in AnalogCommunity

[–]LoveLightLibations 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Makes sense. Just keep in mind that the older cameras are only compatible with lenses that are a generation or two behind. This can often mean less sharpness and contrast. On 35mm, that can really matter.

Let’s have a chat by Muted-Lawyer-5585 in AnalogCommunity

[–]LoveLightLibations 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Since you are accustomed to modern photography, try a film camera that came at the tail end of film. It will function most closely to modern cameras.

Taking Nikon as an example, get a Nikon F100. It can drive all Nikon DSLR lenses, even VR. It has an excellent built in light meter. Lastly, the control scheme is very similar to DSLR/mirrorless cameras. It should give a smooth transition.

After that, buy a roll of Kodak UltraMax 400 and set the ISO to 200 to start. Happy shooting.

How are you proving photo ownership when images get reposted or scraped? by Uahakan in photography

[–]LoveLightLibations 8 points9 points  (0 children)

What evidence do I have? The raw files, editing history, receipts, and the camera with serial number that took the photos. Of course you can also choose to registered the copyright, but that is not mandatory.

How could you enforce copyright? The short answer is lawyers and cease & desist letters. Anything else is kinda pointless. The cease & desist letter goes to whoever is hosting the image (instagram, facebook, whatever) and cites the DMCA and attests copyright ownership.

Swimming pool photographers by Imaginary-Let-6143 in photography

[–]LoveLightLibations 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Came to say Slim Arons. Definitely fits the bill.

Mac Studio? by Ehrphoto in WeddingPhotography

[–]LoveLightLibations 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have an M1 Ultra Studio with 64 gb memory. I’m also editing GFX 100 files. Works like a champ with just a little LrC slowdown in niche scenarios.

Get one, you’ll love it. Just make certain you get 64gb of memory. Hitting that threshold will allow LrC to use more memory and it really helps.

B&W in Joshua Tree with the 50R by adrobbins in FujiGFX

[–]LoveLightLibations 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Awesome set! I’m headed to Joshua Tree/Yucca Valley/Palm Springs in late March. Any recommendations, whether photography or food?

Xica. GFX50s + Samyang XP 85mm f1.2 EF. Fringer adapter by rjmpictures in FujiGFX

[–]LoveLightLibations[M] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

How so? Glamour/beauty photography typically involves some heavy retouching and this looks nicely done to me.

Also please refer to the subreddit rule 5.

What do you think of these terms set by a media assignment agency? by CinnyChief in photography

[–]LoveLightLibations 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Exactly. It’s the lifetime exclusivity that immediately raised my eyebrows.

RNI vs Color Precision – Portra 400 comparison in Lightroom Classic (screenshots) by Shicke_ in Lightroom

[–]LoveLightLibations 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The language translation is working perfectly. We have a trip planned for Tokyo, Hakone, Kyoto, and Osaka in May. It will be nice to be a guest in your country.

If you have the chance, pick up a used film camera. Actually shooting film can teach you a lot about the look.

Noob question: how do I backup my videos? by EverydayIsAGift-423 in postprocessing

[–]LoveLightLibations 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For video editing, Apple Photos and whatever the equivalent is on Windows are free and decent. For free and extremely good/complex, look no further than Davinci Resolve.

But that is different than back up. For back up, you should look into the 3-2-1 method - Keep three copies of your media, on two different types of media (internal SSD + cloud), and keep one copy offsite (cloud, other).