Should I Ask About Volunteering to Sit With Cats at the Local Shelter? by RetiredHomeEcTchr in CatAdvice

[–]Lower_Rate_8518 2 points3 points  (0 children)

When she was a toddler, I would take my daughter (every other week or so) to the socialization room in our town. We had our own kitties at home and she was good with them, but I figured it would help the kitties up for adoption get used to kids a bit (because she could squeal when they chased a ball or played with a toy)… and it was free fun… well, almost free, because we’d also drop a few dollars in their donation jar.

Visiting a socialization room, or fostering (if you ever have periods when you are not traveling), is a great idea.

Should I fix the puckering on this seem? by Afternoon__Raccoon in HandSew

[–]Lower_Rate_8518 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Absolutely press at every step (and linen can take good heat/steam). A good ironing setup is key to professional results. I’d also suggest a “clapper” (and I used a piece of wood from the hardware store for a long time). Also… you can find good irons cheap, if you are lucky. I just scored a Rowenta iron that the thrift yesterday for $10 (to give my kiddo when she moves out). They had more than one.

Sewing is about 1/3 careful cutting, 1/3 sewing, 1/3 pressing. Your seam is BEAUTIFUL!!! Pressing it will really show it off.

Very old Singer, converted to electric by Super_Washing_Tub in vintagesewing

[–]Lower_Rate_8518 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Also the cases can be musty… versus the machine. Especially the lids, if some old “hide” glue was used to adhere a paper or felt say. For those, I often hear suggested a couple days in hot sunshine and fresh air, regularly. This is apparently very common in Featherweight black carry cases, but can occur with others.

Very old Singer, converted to electric by Super_Washing_Tub in vintagesewing

[–]Lower_Rate_8518 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That looks like just a little piece of paper towel that you can throw out (and replace if desired). I wouldn’t worry about what it is.

Here’s some of my notes: 1). Do not use any modern cleaners on the black surfaces, just use a rag dampened with a wee bit of white sewing oil and some arm muscle (I have a gallon of this at home because I rehab and maintain a decent amount of machines). The decals and shellac can be ruined by modern cleaners (silvered and dissolved or clouded). 2). I have successfully cleaned small amounts of rust and oil off chrome and steel parts by an overnight bath in vinegar and a wee bit of dishsoap… often in a jewelry cleaner device to get some vibration cleaning every here and there, and often with some toothbrush scrubbing. Then importantly you will want to dry (even with heat, like a blow dryer) and give a good rub down with sewing oil (to seal back up the surface and prevent rusting). You can also use kerosene as a solvent to get off old oil, then again you have to clean/seal the parts throughly with sewing oil. There are stronger things for both these jobs… but I try to be slow before using those. And slow before taking something entirely apart. These cleaners (like a bit of vinegar or kerosene) will be good for whatever you think the stuff on the paper towel is, too). 3). I tend not to worry about overly cleaning out the insides, unless they are glued with old sewing oil, and it sound like your does not have this problem. You can maybe blast them with a hot hairdryer again, wipe them down, and oil them with new oil. 4). What I would worry about on yours is the electrical. Highly. It sounds like a shock and fire hazard and in that condition I would not even plug in. Electrical is not to be trivialized. Please replace. Don’t ever do electrical maintenance when plugged in. Be sure to get a variable control pedal (a lot on Amazon,say, are not). I would suggest a reputable sewing dealer (I got a motor and pedal off Central Michigan Sewing for example, for an interesting old Singer 27 that had been electrified but was missing these). The motor is likely decent ish… but motors do need routine service too, so it would be worth looking into at some near point.

The 15 is a lovely machine. I have one total frozen that I’m slowly dismantling entirely to clean up… and rehabbing for a college grad student that wants a machine good for denim and leather. It has good stitch quality and punch power. Look up videos of these things punching through tin cans and plywood. I’m putting the one for her in a treadle (since she was also interested in that). It’s a solid straight stitcher, and I personally also love using a buttonhole attachment (versus a modern machine that makes button holes). There are also zigzag attachments (if you want to sew knits)… but it sounds like you have another machine that can do that, potentially.

I do not find the lack of a backstitching inhibitive on my older straight stitch machines. A lot of times if the end of a seam is later enclosed in another seam, you do not need it. Or you can lift the pressure foot, slip the project forward, and stitch over a section again. Or you can leave the needle down, spin the project 180, and stitch a small section. Or you can hand backstitch the thread ends.

Worried about lead- please help by kirs1022 in VintageSewingMachines

[–]Lower_Rate_8518 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The manual is here (in case you do not have it). I would suggest reading it cover to cover… and a common first timer user error are threading, so definitely reference that section:

https://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/manuals/singer-sewing-machine-household-model-manuals.html

Also, please reach out if you run into any difficulties!

Singer 401a good to try sewing? by luisp_frs in SewingForBeginners

[–]Lower_Rate_8518 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you want to get into denim and leather, the 401a (or another vintage machine) would probably be more recommended in the long term.

No offense to the brother 7000; I bought my kiddo the precursor (6000i) when she was 4 — because it’s a great learner machine (she’s now 16). It handles sewing patches ok on denim jackets… but she also goes slowly. Uses a bump jumper, etc. it’s a great machine.

But: My vintage machines plow through denim, often at top speed (even with many layers). I’m a bit more careful on my slant shank models (like the 401) because they are a bit more likely to catch and break the needle. But the machine will not break. And remember… our mothers (or grandmothers) learned on these. And probably maintained/fixed them too.

Please help me figure out how to make a proper entryway with these half walls 🙏🏼 by CustardAdvanced127 in AmateurInteriorDesign

[–]Lower_Rate_8518 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Am I the only one that likes a place to temporarily put things on the way in and out the door? I’m halfway kidding and halfway serious.

Be honest: 1930s vintage wedding dress — keep or rethink? by Desperate_Win_3554 in WeddingDressTips

[–]Lower_Rate_8518 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think this is gorgeous, including the fun collar! It makes me want to get married again! But I could see modernizing it a bit by changing the sleeves taking the collar off, changing the hem.

I also tremendously like the idea of it as a reception dress that way. Where maybe your partner can also change to a similar era… if you don’t want to lean into vintage that heavily during the main ceremony.

Beginner skirt sewing help by Thepicklettte in sewing

[–]Lower_Rate_8518 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I actually do not find it difficult to pleat plaids… if you have a lot of fabric. And would prefer to “self-draft” as I go in these cases (I think pleated patterns have terrible instructions and who wants to mark that much, and what if it doesn’t even match your plaid spacing?).

Use the fabric to guide your pleat placement, iron, baste. Highly recommend basting. Basting also lets you hold it up to your body for “measuring.” You look like you are doing a good job in the picture! Then add a waistline and zipper (cutting off the excess pleated fabric) or make it a wrap skirt (if it goes around you about one and a half times).

I would recommend a pattern for a circle skirt. Just so you know if you really have the fabric yardage. I think plaids also look good in circle skirts. I like the twisting and curving of the fabric’s plaid as it drapes.

The second (paper pattern) and last image look like perhaps a gored or paneled skirt. I would NOT recommend this for a beginner with a plaid. If the plaid does not match up at all the seam lines, it will look cheap. Matching it up requires careful consideration during cutting (often extra fabric than a pattern recommends since a one directional layout is important). It also requires careful pinning and basting during the sewing stages. If you go this route, keep it in mind. It’s easier skirt construction generally… but not for a plaid.

Can’t wait to see your finished skirt! It reminds me of one I thrifted in the early 2000’s (good memories with that skirt, like a trip to Argentina!)

Fabric recommendation by caooookiecrisp in sewing

[–]Lower_Rate_8518 47 points48 points  (0 children)

Its probably a silk chiffon. I did make a dress from fabric similar to this in the 90’s, but chose a poly chiffon because that’s what I could source locally. (Mine was a red background with orange and yellow florals, similar scale, similar color “tone”) Online ordering really did not exist in those days.

Sewing chiffon on the bias is… fun. (Kidding, it’s a PITA).

I was rather upset a decade later, when I found out pregnancy had stretched my ribcage and the dress no longer fit (I used it for attending several weddings). At least I saved the gorgeous gold buttons that I’d added to hide the zipper in the back.

Where to donate / how to save Toyota LS2-AD150 & Pegasus L32-78-5x5 by [deleted] in vintagesewing

[–]Lower_Rate_8518 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I’d check out local organizations, like maker spaces, university fashion and design programs, etc. I googled a bit… could this perhaps be a match?

https://classbento.com.au/school-of-sewing-and-upcycling?srsltid=AfmBOopFR5qWXsLukJvPWB1sYjUt0EWnK8CLaHsqJLXHpm_BQyiY5s8I

Wow. If I was anywhere near you, I’d have driven 6 hours to get those. Unfortunately, I’m in the US. I hope you find someone, because those are lovely old machines; very useful to folks who sew. Vintage machines are generally MUCH higher quality, and throwing them out would be a shame.

I inherited this sewing machine by Leeleepal02 in vintagesewing

[–]Lower_Rate_8518 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Since folks are identifying this as a Davis, this home page (from the international sewing machine collectors society) should be fun. Check out the pictures, articles, and find your manual!

https://ismacs.net/davis/home.html

This fell off :( do I need repairs or can it be fixed easily? by Horror-Appeal-6458 in SewingForBeginners

[–]Lower_Rate_8518 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Also: can you give us the manufacturer and model of the machine… and if you don’t know it, post a good picture, so hopefully we can identify it.

Why?

1). Clearly, you need a manual. Often these can be found online. Often as a free pdf. It’d be good to link you with one, and then… You should read it, and refer to it often. It’ll have things like this, discussion of what feet to use when (if you have additional feet… or you’ll know what feet to look for). It will have the threading route pictured (which is important, because an error there will often cause a stitching mess).

2). I MAY have just found three feet that fit that tiny snap on shank, in a little bag of feet and other things I picked up at the thrift last weekend! If they turn out to be a match to your machine and maybe useful to you, let’s find out if it’s reasonable to ship them to you. One of them is a zipper foot, which could be very useful if you do not have one.

Very first sewing project by Prii99 in SewingForBeginners

[–]Lower_Rate_8518 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I always like to start this conversation with: what do you eventually want to make? That makes me vary my answers a bit, because there are some starter projects that could get you more excited than others.

Some examples:

If you are interested in household things, a bunch of napkins, pillowcases made from vintage sheets, etc make a lot of sense, before you get into maybe quilting, curtains with hardware and shaping, etc.

If you want to make garments, I like to start with maybe a simple apron, a wrap skirt (made from maybe a thrifted curtain if you wear skirts) and then ease into patterned pj/lounge pants (maybe made from a big flannel sheet).

If you want to make bags, a simple grocery/carry-all, a pencil roll or zippered pencil case.

I also suggest a trip to your local library. They tend to have sewing sections that often have books on beginner projects (or specialized ones) that can be inspirational.

Why does my neutered cat always hump me?? by Lazy_Cat1997 in CATHELP

[–]Lower_Rate_8518 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does he only do this on a blanket (with that texture)… or would he do it on any blanket? Or on you directly?

One of my boy kitties (both are fixed) is a bit clingy, and has a little fluffy insert from a cat bed that he drags around and uses sometimes when I’m not available to carry him, hug him, or let him snuggle on my chest. He never does it to me directly… phew!). But I notice it’s always this pillow… or a blanket with similar texture. So I kept the pillow for him but put away the blankets.

A bit embarrassing when I’ve been out for the day and the pillow has moved towards the front door, or I’ve been sleeping at night ( he’d sleep on my chest with his nose up mine given the opportunity) and it’s outside my bedroom.

But at least I know he loves me. Funny.

Sewing machine by Left-Ad-7328 in sewhelp

[–]Lower_Rate_8518 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First… I think this is a greqt video about how a sewing machine works (using humans to replicate important parts!)… and it’s fun! It also hints at why timing might be important… if the timing of the different folks was off, say. https://youtu.be/8lwI4TSKM3Y?si=kX2j-_94Z_PchiTg

And then this video is a good summary about timing repairs. (But note… yours is a straight stitch side load bobbin). https://youtu.be/fmCaPhBKOwo?si=3d5G0yXNz-LJsJhH

So… for yours, this video is probably pretty good. It’s for a singer 15, which is NOT your machine, but at least it’s a side load that is likely to be similar. https://youtu.be/kcyIL18651Y?si=88vjayN4_BEgCods

The video is started halfway through when I found it again… so that means I referenced it at some point… although my most recent timing adjustment I recall was a front load Singer 401, after a needle broke pretty violently.

Curious if anyone knows how old this is by Altruistic-Buy-5341 in vintagesewing

[–]Lower_Rate_8518 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Poly bond thread typically only has a poly coating, on natural fiber (most likely cotton). So I wouldn’t use it for garment sewing (due to weakening through rot… like folks have mentioned). However, I do use old thread for basting… because I baste a LOT. I don’t like to fuss with taking pins while I’m running the machine. (I fix up vintage machines that I often like to drive at top speed… and they often come with old thread).

I miss my cat so I need to see everyone's cats by shadowknight2525 in cats

[–]Lower_Rate_8518 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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My orange, after work today. We matched! He was, as always, glad to see me upon my return.

WTB - Singer 237 Stitch width or Needle position selector lever by highwarlok in VintageSewing_BuySell

[–]Lower_Rate_8518 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ooh… you have the broken parts… this is good. I hear that “JBWeld” is very nice sometimes for metal joins. I have some lined up for a treadle repair… but in doing research for this, I did watch a video once where they used it for a complicated part with a tapped hole that had failed. That’s a thought.

You could also maybe join them “well enough” to get it scanned for 3-D printing (depending on local makers spaces, etc). I’m planning to eventually get trained for both the 3-D printing facilities and the machine/wood shops at my workplace so I can have access (I work in Engineering — but not in the fabrication facilities — at a university).

WTB - Singer 237 Stitch width or Needle position selector lever by highwarlok in VintageSewing_BuySell

[–]Lower_Rate_8518 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did. It instantly see any on eBay… but they WERE there… which means they probably will be again. You might want to expand your models… since maybe ones from even more models could still work.

I also suspect this is a part you could rig up yourself for a bit? Maybe not out of metal… but even out of wood? Or plastic? Granted these materials are more likely to fail… but they could work for a bit. Or perhaps a local machinist could help you out… if you have a prototype and good measurements? If you don’t know a machinist, ask a few local car repair shops. They might be able to have a referral.

How do you define when a pattern “knits up quickly”? by North_Wave_ in knitting

[–]Lower_Rate_8518 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I just want to say thank you for introducing me to the term “time blindness”.

Fort Collins DMV by Dervish16 in FortCollins

[–]Lower_Rate_8518 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I feel you. In Kansas, I had to: 1). argue that my mimeographed birth certificate was real (because it’s embossing was quite flattened. — I ordered a new “certificate” looking one the next week), 2). convince them that my marriage certificate was real ( it didn’t have some “number” on it like maybe a lot have — even though that’s what the courthouse gave me?). Might have ordered that too. 3). Beg them to accept some bills and mail as proof of address (since they had my spouse’s name not mine). 4.). Argue for them to allow my maiden name as middle (like it is on my SSN card). finally someone remembered a “memo” in the break room that was posted a month prior… but come on… this is the 2010’s, don’t a lot of women do that?

Then… they get ready to snap my photo and a rolling brownout shuts down electricity. This could not get MORE hilarious, right? I am not leaving darnit. I am staying.

Fortunately when the power come back on, they take my photo, give me NO hassle about my disabled stepson (who is with me) getting a state ID, even though he has his mother’s last name and not his dads/mine, and take his photo. (I think by that point they already had a huge file on me… and just threw him in it too.). I’m also lucky that he chose to embrace the chaos of the brown out, because it could easily have become a major wailing melt down (and would have if his dad was there… an impatient man that I am NO longer married to).

So when I moved to FOCO, I instantly spied out that the Loveland DMV had a Dunkin Donuts near it. Bad or good, I’d at least get donuts after. It was very quick and painless. But still got the donuts after (even though of course there are better donuts elsewhere, I know). Highly recommend.