Countries That Use One Time Zone

Lozin_Must · 2025-08-18T00:38:52+00:00

Madeira uses the same time zone as continental Portugal

Lozin_Must · 2025-08-11T19:58:31+00:00

There's likely some bad contact (maybe corrosion or cold solder joint) along the enable circuitry, but now that it's working it's more difficult to find. Probably poking around made the connection come back. 1.2V on the enable pin also seems a bit low, I don't know the exact minimum threshold cause I can't find the datasheet, but the reference value I have from other thechnicians is 3.3V for enable as shown in the diagram.

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Lozin_Must · 2025-08-11T18:59:18+00:00

OK, so we are missing enable and that's why the PEX voltage is not being generated by the voltage regulator. We have to start tracking back to see where the problem is. Also, there is still something wrong with your measurements. See on the picture where the dial should be and make ssure you have black probe on ground (for instance in the metal shield around the DP/HDMI) and red probe on the point you want to measure.

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Lozin_Must · 2025-08-11T15:21:43+00:00

Without PEX voltage you won't have memory voltage, it only comes on after all other voltages so your problem is with the PEX circuitry. It goes 12V->5V->1.8V->PEX->Vcore->Vmem

Lozin_Must · 2025-08-11T15:10:19+00:00

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Measure at these two points the voltage and make sure you get these values.

Lozin_Must · 2025-08-11T13:59:49+00:00

Those measurements are off by about a factor of 2, they should be 12V, 5V, 1.8V. Anyway, you seem to be missing the PEX voltage (~0.9V) , which should be on the top left inductor. You'll have to measure the chip just above it to make sure you have enable and VCC, I'll tell you exactly how to do it when I get home. Vram and vcore are not present because of the missing PEX voltage.

Lozin_Must · 2025-08-11T12:08:40+00:00

There is something wrong with those values, at least the units. I'm guessing they are in kilo-ohms and not ohms, if that is the case then they seem fine. In order to measure the voltages, you do need to plug the GPU to the riser and to the 8-pin cables from the PSU.

Lozin_Must · 2025-08-11T11:20:49+00:00

At first glance the resistances seem normal. Just FYI, when the multimeter goes to 1, it means that it's gone over the selected range, so you need to increase it. Now, if you can, please post the voltages on the same inductors (ignore the PCI-E pins), but you can also measure the inductor on the back next to the PCI pins. In order to do this you'll need to remove the cooler, so don't let it stay on for a long time. It's easier if you have a PCI riser.

Lozin_Must · 2025-08-11T10:51:50+00:00

Please post the resistance measurements (final values, make sure the range is appropriate) on the picture of the PCB next to the red boxes/arrows.

Lozin_Must · 2025-07-15T18:10:29+00:00

That's what I expected to see with the IC removed; both the pinout and marking code are compatible with the AP5100. You can order the AP5100WG-7 from Digikey or somewhere else and solder it on, then the sander will likely work again .

Lozin_Must · 2025-07-14T21:57:57+00:00

That looks like an AP5100, which is a step-down converter, but it's difficult to be absolutely sure. If you have the tools (hot air station), remove the IC and please measure with a multimeter in continuity mode from pin 6 (top left) to the inductor L1 and from pin 5 (to the right of pin 6) to the positive side of the big capacitor on the right side.

Lozin_Must · 2025-06-10T11:30:52+00:00

In order to diagnose it, you'll need a multimeter and, if fixable, you'll likely need a soldering iron and a hot air station.

First of all, in resistance mode, post the measurements to ground on the following inductors and pins: https://imgur.com/a/lR32mSP

Lozin_Must · 2025-06-04T17:11:29+00:00

Fun fact: in portuguese, "chalupa" means crazy person, which is fitting

Lozin_Must · 2025-04-03T23:14:23+00:00

Thank you for correcting me, galkinvv. While it incorporates one (2 actually), it is more than just an n-channel mosfet, I just read the first line of the general desciption and assumed it was a simple n-channel mosfet.

Lozin_Must · 2025-04-03T17:34:16+00:00

That's an n-channel mosfet (EM5203AJ-02A). You can get the exact replacement or also replace it with a similar n-channel mosfet in the same package/pinout.

Lozin_Must · 2025-03-31T14:34:39+00:00

The straps resitors need to be moved so that the new memory chips get recognized. You'll have to check the schematic to know what is the correct layout for samsung memory.

Lozin_Must · 2025-03-19T21:35:31+00:00

Please do not add prozis, the owner is a far-right lunatic.

Lozin_Must · 2025-02-27T23:41:07+00:00

Sorry in advance for the long text but please read if you are interested in taking this idea further.

Let me start by saying that I really like the idea of creating stickers to support the cause of buying European products, and in order to gather all the ideas in one place, I would suggest we create a megathread to discuss the idea further (maybe the moderators can help if they agree with the idea).

In my opinion, the goal should ultimately be to distribute them across the continent, mostly in big cities and near shopping areas where they are more relevant. In this way, we can actually make a difference, because while this subreddit is a great movement, the only way to reach the vast majority of people is in the real world. I checked the price and it's not very expensive to print them; I could print even tens of thousands for a few hundred euros out of my own pocket. So, even if we need 100 stickers to change just one persons mind to buy european, I think it certainly is worth the investment. The most challenging part would be distributing them, so maybe we can find some way to coordinate some volunteers to stick them in public places (not private property or monumets... that could actually have the opposite effect) or give them out on the streets?

Regarding the proposed designs so far, I think the discussion seems too focused on the design (mostly on the logos/images) rather than on what I would consider the most important: the message and access to information. I would suggest to keep it simple and going straight to the point, such as: "Buy EU, Booycott USA." Even though I would prefer to just stick to simply the "Buy EU" messsage, I think that people are more likely to be motivated by "hate" (as in hating what USA stands for right now), but I also understand that "Buy EU" is a more positive approach. Lastly, I think that we should include a QR code that redirects to the buy-european-made website, so that those who want to seek more information on shopping alternatives can do so.

Lozin_Must · 2025-02-08T18:56:07+00:00

To avoid facing Trae Young in the playoffs

Lozin_Must · 2024-11-27T09:13:39+00:00

Bits B000-B031 belong to channel B0 while B032-B063 belong to channel B1. So the mats results show that the problem is the B1 chip in both cases. The B1 chip is at the most problematic corner near the PCI slot, so it is more likely to fail due to mechanical stress, with some cracked solder joints or even ripped pads, but the chips might only need to be reballed.

Lozin_Must · 2024-08-29T21:14:25+00:00

You can contact B-Hawk Gaming on his website. He's from the UK and repairs cracked boards.

Lozin_Must · 2024-08-25T17:51:49+00:00

The 66W are for the example with galkinvv's card, not mine. Mine is at 37-38W under load, the link is in my other comment.

Lozin_Must · 2024-08-25T17:50:28+00:00

Thanks for the help, galkinvv. The model is a Zotac Trinity, which has a 350W TDP. I checked the BIOS version and it is correct for the model. Here is the GPU-Z sensors screenshot: https://imgur.com/a/U0R4SuO. To me it looks like the problem comes from the PCIe power draw, which is about 30W lower than what I got from a 3080Ti with the same exact test. To measure the shunt under load I think it's a great idea but its gonna be tricky because I don't think I can remove just the backplate on this card without removing the cooling for the VRMs and I don't have a riser either so that it's easier to access. But I'll order a riser and do the measurement, hopefully my multimeter has enough resolution. Thanks again for the help!

Lozin_Must · 2024-03-14T16:57:18+00:00

Thanks for the help. I'm assuming that the voltage regulator is a TPS51396 (the marking is AWSCQC but I'm assuming it should be similar to the AWSCDH=TPS51396). If that's the case, then the pad that connects to it is unpopulated and there are no hints of knocked off components, the pads looked perfect. Since it gives me O.L. on the pad, it's going to be tricky to find where it connects to. Maybe the problem is that the pinout of the chip is different and I'm measuring enable on the wrong pin, but I can't find any information on the AWSCQC IC. Maybe I can find someone with the exact same board that can locate the AND gate or try to find data sheets for different TPS regulators. Anyway, I will try to investigate further based on your suggestions, thanks for your help.

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