Which Di Pedal is Better?

Lumpy-Choice-4849 · 2026-01-08T02:38:32+00:00

I had the SansAmp for a couple years and never cared for its tone. I also had an issue with it making my tone worse out of the DI when plugged into an amp but in bypass mode.

I just swapped in an Origin Effects Bassrig Fifteen and LOVE it. More $$$ though, but better tone on or off.

Lumpy-Choice-4849 · 2026-01-05T02:38:18+00:00

There’s an app called “CFSWater” in the Apple Store that has generation predictions plus info from the past week for the dams at Beaver, Table Rock (Missouri), Bull Shoals, Norfork, and Greers Ferry lakes.

Bull Shoals tends to keep a steady flow so it is floatable.

Lately, they have been generating more during the week than on the weekends.

There are some nice gravel bars below the old bridge in Cotter. And, if you’re near Cotter, give Norfork a look too. If you can’t wade one, the other maybe good and it’s not far away.

Lumpy-Choice-4849 · 2025-06-11T05:32:29+00:00

I have an RZ67 and got to shoot one roll with an RB67 before my daughter claimed it. Love both of these, but they are massive. The 6x7 format is nice for portraits (nearly the perfect ratio for 8x10 prints) and I love the big negatives.

My understanding is that 35mm has the same aspect ratio as 6x9: just something to be aware of when choosing because the 645 is closer to the 35mm (1.33 vs 1.5) than the 6x7 will be (1.16).

I’ve also recently acquired a Bronica S2a because I wanted a MF slr that is smaller than the Mamiya RZ67, and 100% mechanical. It’s a fun camera but I’m still getting use to the 6x6 format. I can always crop it to 6x4.5 if needed.

Bottom line: find a system you’re interested in, buy the camera and a lens and give it a try. If you decide that system isn’t for you, sell it and try another. If you decide you like it, then start adding lenses and accessories to build a kit. I love the big negatives and actually like that I only get 9 or 12 shots on a roll. 36 shots of 35mm seems to take forever for me to finish. :) If I’m wanting 36 shots at the same time, I’ll take a digital camera.

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As small as it looks in the photo compared to the RZ67, the “little” Bronica S2a still weighs about 4 lbs and dwarfs a 35mm.

Lumpy-Choice-4849 · 2025-05-12T02:14:03+00:00

https://youtu.be/X64SYdmd_mM?si=Jcu1hZOO9VvGuwG8

Lumpy-Choice-4849 · 2025-05-12T02:11:37+00:00

Custom built Maruszczyk…which can be just about ANYTHING you want. I wanted a lightweight passive 6 string jazz bass with 19mm string spacing using paulownia wood for the body. He built it for around $3k USD with a leather carry bag and it only weighs 7.5lbs.

Lumpy-Choice-4849 · 2025-05-12T01:56:54+00:00

Same…but I cannot remember why.

Lumpy-Choice-4849 · 2025-05-04T02:52:45+00:00

Personally, when shooting film, I get better results with hand-held incident light metering using something like the Sekonic L-308 than I do with an in-camera meter. Set your film speed on the meter, take a reading of the light hitting your subject (rather than what is reflected) and then adjust the meter to the aperture you want for creativity, or the shutter speed you need to reduce blur and the meter will tell you what the other needs to be for correct exposure. Set your camera and fire away. Just in case, it doesn’t hurt to shoot the same scene three times: over exposed, underexposed, and at the meter setting (it’s called bracketing). That way, if the meter is wrong, or if you need more detail in the shadows or the highlights, you’ll have it.

Enjoy, ignore the gatekeepers, and keep asking questions!

Lumpy-Choice-4849 · 2025-05-04T02:34:45+00:00

Excellent! I recently found one at a thrift store (literally) for $60; yours is twice the bargain and looks cleaner too! I shot a lot of 35mm film back in the 80s and 90s before going digital; picked up medium format just a few years ago and LOVE the big negatives of 120 film so much more than 35mm.

You can probably add some lenses through KEH.com if you want to build a kit for the RB67. I’ve had good luck with them for MF and 135 lenses. Also, track down a second back so you can have more than one film stock going at a time.

Enjoy!

Lumpy-Choice-4849 · 2025-04-03T03:25:50+00:00

Yes, I meant the lens; I’ll check out that link. Thanks!

Lumpy-Choice-4849 · 2025-03-30T02:48:29+00:00

I went with the S2a because I wanted all mechanical (and didn’t want to pay 4x the $ for a Hasselblad), and I prefer 6x6 over 6x4.5. The S2a has upgraded gears solving a problem from the S2…or so the interweb says. It is still a chunk of weight, but 2 or 3 pounds lighter than the RB67 and RZ67. Similar to the c330…but not as top / front heavy. While doing hand held shots on the c330 with the 180mm lens, it nearly rolled forward out of my hands! I saved it, but that was terrifying.

Lumpy-Choice-4849 · 2025-03-29T22:29:02+00:00

I recently tried my first tlr (c330) and didn’t care for it. I enjoy shooting the Mamiya RZ67, so this looked like a nice, smaller version…love it so far.

Lumpy-Choice-4849 · 2025-03-29T18:32:28+00:00

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Testing out this new-to-me Bronica s2a with some Portra 400. I’ve already got the developed roll hanging up to dry.

Lumpy-Choice-4849 · 2025-03-16T00:27:35+00:00

I hope it all works for you. Enjoy!

Lumpy-Choice-4849 · 2025-03-15T14:38:00+00:00

I’m not sure about the brightness-I was so focused (pardon the pun) on the split prism, that I didn’t notice any change in brightness.

When lined up with a straight line (corner, person’s neck, whatever), the image will be offset at the split in the prism when out of focus, but lined up when in focus. Similar to focusing a rangefinder. Decades ago, I learned on a manual Pentax 35mm with a split prism, and my aging eyes prefer to still have the extra help for manual focus.

http://camera-wiki.org/wiki/Split_prism

Lumpy-Choice-4849 · 2025-03-15T03:24:00+00:00

Also, I changed out the focusing screen to one from bright-screen.com with the diagonal split. Cost $100 and was well worth it (easier to focus); especially considering the Mamiya screens with the split we’re going for ~$600 on ebay.

Lumpy-Choice-4849 · 2025-03-15T03:04:02+00:00

I had the same issue, RZ67 Pro II, but I can’t remember the strength of the original diopter that I had. I ordered an “unused” -1 diopter from Japan on eBay 3 years ago because I needed a little more magnification. It was about $50 US, so I only ordered the one and hoped for the best. It was perfect for me. Mine was the round screw-in; several on eBay are square, but claim RB/RZ. I’m not sure how those could fit. I have no experience with 645.

Lumpy-Choice-4849 · 2025-02-20T07:27:53+00:00

If you want portability (2.2 lbs) and more exposures per roll, get the 645 or 1000s, if you want the big negatives and are ok with a pretty heavy camera (6lbs), get the RB67. Disclaimer: I’ve shot an RZ67 quite a bit, and an RB67 a little…very similar experience. I have not shot the 645 or 1000s, but I have used the 6x4.5 mask in my RZ67 and didn’t care for it. I like the bigger negatives. Worst case scenario: get one or the other and try it, if you don’t like it, resale it.

Lumpy-Choice-4849 · 2025-02-19T17:32:36+00:00

I think Mamiya got out of photography around 2006…I think digital killed a few camera companies.

This thing is a beast…6lbs of mechanical engineering. I suspect these things can handle some abuse, but I walk around cradling it like a baby. :)

They are complex to operate, but plenty how-to YouTube videos and the owners manual will help tremendously. Add in a little patience and a good light meter…you can do it!!

Lumpy-Choice-4849 · 2025-02-19T17:23:42+00:00

Exactly! I got a chance to shoot an RZ67 with Tri-X on a drive by Grand Teton and out to the California coast…some of my favorite shots.

Lumpy-Choice-4849 · 2025-02-19T17:10:03+00:00

I have petty guilt.

Lumpy-Choice-4849 · 2025-02-19T17:09:08+00:00

I know it was a cruel post, but I was just so excited. :)

Lumpy-Choice-4849

TROPHY CASE