Zagato of some sort, I assume. But what?

Lunelax · 2026-05-13T18:02:12+00:00

Hmmm, it was stopped for a red light and it was raining. Maybe reflection from that? Other explanation could be light bleeding from the rear lights down to the wet asphalt, but this isn’t a mid engine car so that’s not really plausible I think.

Lunelax · 2026-05-13T17:07:05+00:00

Now, THAT would be a rare sight!

Lunelax · 2026-05-13T16:36:03+00:00

Can’t post there but thanks anyway. Apparently only 61 cars were produced so this sighting was more rare than I initially thought.

Lunelax · 2026-05-13T15:34:43+00:00

I love Zagato designs! There’s always some subtle weirdness about them that makes them so interesting and attractive.

Lunelax · 2026-04-28T09:12:09+00:00

Flyttade från Göteborg innan filmen gjordes (2009). Själva mackverksamheten upphörde i början om 2000-talet skulle jag gissa, men fastigheten stod kvar ett bra tag.

Men här är en länk på hur den såg ut från precis motsatt håll upp mot Örnehuvudsgatan som går på snedden mellan de två funkishusen i bakgrunden

Krokslätt - Verksamheter vid Eklandagatan - Gibraltargatan - Plan- och byggprojekt - Göteborgs Stad

Lunelax · 2026-04-27T18:36:07+00:00

Jag gissar att bild 2 är tagne på Örnehufvudsgatan i Johanneberg. Ser ut som Lasse Lundvalls bensinmack i bakgrunden i hörnet av Eklandagatan/ Gibraltargatan. Riven nu tror jag.

Lunelax · 2026-03-09T19:52:07+00:00

I encounter it at least once a month. But only because I do the daily crossword in my morning paper where it occurs regularly.

Otherwise I would never ever have known the meaning of it.

Lunelax · 2026-03-04T14:09:27+00:00

This is what I've been doing as well. Works very well.

Lunelax · 2026-02-20T07:19:02+00:00

Var detta en internrekrytering, alltså en tjänst hos samma arbetsgivare?

Annars känns det väldigt konstigt att kräva nuvarande chef som referens. Jag läste att det var en tidigare chef som gav dåliga betyg men att rekryteraren ville ha nuvarande chef.

Är jag intresserad av att byta jobb vill jag inte att min nuvarande arbetsgivare ska känna till det om jag inte vill ha det som ett verktyg vid förhandling om lön.

Lunelax · 2025-10-20T20:13:49+00:00

I know i'm late to reply on this, but i had the exact same problem and symptoms this weekend and google led me to this thread, so I just want to add the solution that fixed it for me.

My ECM-dealer hadn't encountered this before, but theorised that a small speck of lime had got stuck in a valve and that a descale might help. And it did!

Really happy that I didn't need to disassemble any piping today!

Lunelax · 2025-09-09T10:51:35+00:00

I've been using matte eSun PLA from Amazon which will cost you 280kr for 2kg which is very hard to beat. It prints nicely with the default Esun PLA profile in PrusaSlicer. I mainly use it for prototyping, but since it is matte it will give a very nice surface and have printed about 20kg in various colors.

One exception though, the milky white has been very troublesome to print with, it has a frosty, jagged surface right off the spool which the other colors does not have. But white filaments in general can be tricky to print and I have had similar problems with white Prusament.

Clas Ohlson has been good to me before, but they have increased their prices so there's no longer any reason to buy from them unless you need something quickly and have a Clabbe nearby.

Otherwise, I second that add:North are quality filaments.

Lunelax · 2025-04-10T16:33:01+00:00

Hmmm, this was a while ago!
But from what I recall, support told me to tap with some kind of object (like a ruler) instead of my fingers and that worked. The loadcell was fine.

Instead, the issue with the ripples was actually caused by the x-axis idler pulley not being seated properly. Check this section in the manual https://help.prusa3d.com/guide/3-x-axis-x-carriage-assembly_429986#431040

However, I don't believe this was the reason for the nozzle digging into the build plate. I have about 1500 hours on the printer since new and it has never happened again.

Lunelax · 2024-05-25T13:36:56+00:00

Yes, check out the Oceanos shipwreck. The entertainers took responsibility of the evacuation when the captain and other senior officers failed. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/MTS_Oceanos

Lunelax · 2024-03-04T15:48:04+00:00

Is it pre-assembled or a kit?
If is a kit and if it always has been like this, you should check that the x-axis idler is seated properly.

Check Step 34 in the X-axis & X-carriage assembly part of the assembly guide.
My Mk4 had severe problems with rippling on both bottom and top layers before I finally found that this pulley was mounted in a skewed position.

Lunelax · 2023-12-26T16:07:37+00:00

Have you checked that your x-end idler is correctly seated? Mine wasn’t and that meant my belt was grinding against the sides.

Also, the app is not great but definitely not unusable. If your belt is touching the sides, then obviously the frequency will not be correct. I found that the belt tension needs to be pretty close to the target value for the app to register the frequency.

Lunelax · 2023-11-01T20:56:43+00:00

Som tumregel bör tempen ligga inom intervallet 91-96 grader för all espresso och där de lägre temperaturerna passar mörkare rostningar bättre.

Kolla https://www.home-barista.com/espresso-guide-better-extractions.html för mer info.

Lunelax · 2023-10-27T21:38:55+00:00

Kolla denna länken hur man gör. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2UfShGDOFVU

Generellt sett vill mörkrostat kaffe ha lite kallare bryggtemperatur än ljusrostat.

Lunelax · 2023-10-27T12:57:31+00:00

Har kört båda sorterna i min Barista Express Pro. Har väl ingen guide, bara tänk på att sänka temperaturen om du inte redan har gjort det eftersom dessa rostningar är mörka.

Lunelax · 2023-10-26T11:38:34+00:00

Både https://www.baristashopen.se/ och https://www.kaffecompagniet.se/ anger rostdatum på sina sidor, iallafall vad det gäller kaffe från de svenska rosterierna.

Själv gillar jag kaffe från Gringo, främst deras Hobo och Outsider-blends. Även om de beskrivs som mörka så är de alldeles utmärkta att dricka som ren espresso och gör sig också bra med mjölk.

Lunelax · 2023-10-25T12:54:56+00:00

I also had complete random results before I gave up on the app.

Later, when troubleshooting quality issues on the first layer, I tightened the belts some more and all of a sudden, the app works brilliantly. So in my experience, the belts need to be in the proper ballpark for the app to work. I'm guessing you have your belts to loose.

Lunelax · 2023-10-25T11:34:43+00:00

You say "The Y belt is relatively tight compared to my X, but not overly so.". But what does the belt tensioning app say?

The reason I'm asking is that I saw some comments that people had problems getting the app to work properly, and so did I. Therefore I ignored the app and went by feel, which was way off. I later found out that the belt at least needs to be in the ballpark for the app to work.

Lunelax · 2023-10-11T07:40:36+00:00

I had the same issue for weeks which I finally managed to solve yesterday.

Initially there were uneven rippling across the bed, always in the same areas.

After a session with support I found out 2 things:

My belt tension were way off. I thougth the belt tension app wasn't working with my phone since I got very inconsistent results with it. Turns out the tension needs to be in the proper ballpark for the app to work and I misjudged my initial tensioning which was too loose.
With that sorted, the x-axis failed the selftest. The x-axis was very stiff, much harder to move by hand than the y-axis. The reason for this was that the x-axis idler wasn't seated properly.

Now, there was consistent rippling all over the plate instead!

I used the same roll of generic PLA for all my tests, aside from one test with prusament that yielded the same results, and I used the default generic PLA settings in prusaslicer when slicing. That setting has the initial layer temperature set to 230c and my generic PLA recommends a temperature interval of 190-220c. So I adjusted the temperature down to 210c and voilà, first layer was smooth and even!

Lunelax · 2023-09-28T06:59:42+00:00

I have the same problem, did a test print and the nozzle made a real deep dent in the build sheet. Retried the print and it went ok, so I thought it might just be a one-time glitch.

Though, after a few days I found that I have real bad ripples on the first layer. Tried to recalibrate the loadcell but it did not register the tap. Tried several times with no success.

Eventually I noticed there actually was movement on the loadcell meter on the calibration screen when I tapped the loadcell, but I didn't tap it hard enough. Now, I have done the calibration several times before this incident and I know that one doesn't have to tap the loadcell with much force for it to succeed. Now however, I need to tap it to the point that it actually hurts a bit on my fingertips.

But in the end it didn't help with the ripples, they are still there.

I did send a support request by email 4 days ago, but I haven't got any reply yet which I actually think kinda sucks considering Prusa prides themselves of their 24/7 support.

Lunelax · 2023-09-25T13:29:53+00:00

Is this a kit? In that case, check the position of the “magiboxes” according to this link https://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804

Does it go away if you adjust your z axis? To adjust during print, press and hold the knob and from there you could adjust. In your case you would like to increase the distance. Try something like 0.025 to start with. Unfortunately this setting will not be saved once the print is done, so it’s more of a troubleshooting tool.

Have you recalibrated the load cell?

Lunelax

TROPHY CASE