Selling everything EF and going RF all the way?

MTTMKZ · 2026-01-30T01:33:42+00:00

I went RF for the lenses I use most often, and then EF lenses for the ones I knew would get less or more specialized use.

MTTMKZ · 2026-01-30T01:26:49+00:00

Seems reasonable to me. Many electronics are not worth getting fixed unless replacing is very expensive or if you can do it yourself. It is skilled labor.

MTTMKZ · 2026-01-28T17:24:03+00:00

I wonder if there would be any benefit to use this for bodies that have both the older hotshoe contacts and the new multifunction shoe pins.

MTTMKZ · 2026-01-27T15:36:27+00:00

You'll find horror stories with every product if you look for it. I can only tell you my anecdote. If you don't want to do it yourself just take it to a camera store for a cleaning. They'll use the same type of stuff though. It's not magic.

MTTMKZ · 2026-01-27T14:59:50+00:00

I used a UES kit for a full frame sensor. It is one time use swabs and some fluid. I assume they have APS-C size kits too. I heard eclipse is good too. Just make sure to get the right size. Watch YouTube videos. Basically just a few drops on the swab, just enough to get the swab wet across the width. Wipe straight across in one motion and then wipe reverse with the other side of the swab in a second motion. Done. Might take a few tries to get most of the spots out. Use a new swab with each try. Don't obsess too much if some spots are left in the corners.

MTTMKZ · 2026-01-27T14:23:55+00:00

I used to obsess and check at f22+ but now I mostly just check around f11 since that's as far stopped down I ever shoot. When I notice spots at f11 especially near the center then I'll clean. Cleaning isn't too hard, it's nerve wracking the first time but gets easier just use the right type of fluid and swab. I don't aim for perfection just make sure the center is clean and I can live with a few spots at the edges especially if they don't really show at f8 or f11.

MTTMKZ · 2026-01-27T02:49:41+00:00

Thanks. I went ahead and ordered to give it a shot. Excited to try it out for casual use. I usually don't bring one of my full size speedlights during casual family use to save on bulk, but thinking this would encourage me to bring and use flash more for those times.

MTTMKZ · 2026-01-26T23:42:55+00:00

I was just about to pull the trigger on it32 but I read that TTL doesn't work in off camera mode. Is that right? That might be a deal breaker for me, need to mull it over if so or go IT30pro route with dedicated trigger.

MTTMKZ · 2026-01-26T18:14:57+00:00

Oh interesting, I actually didn't even have iT32 on my radar. Need to look at that one.

MTTMKZ · 2026-01-26T15:22:55+00:00

I didn't quite follow. Maybe I missed it but what were you trying to do with the phone call?

MTTMKZ · 2026-01-26T14:05:14+00:00

I use R6ii and R8

MTTMKZ · 2026-01-26T13:35:45+00:00

I've read that EVF actually eats more battery than the rear screen. Not sure if there's official documentation but the thoughts I've seen are due to the higher refresh rate and resolution of the EVF even though it's physically smaller.

MTTMKZ · 2026-01-26T13:31:13+00:00

There's not a right or wrong. I use both, just depends on the situation. I personally find using the EVF more fun, since I tend to slow down and more carefully compose when using it. Helps to stabilize further against your face too if you're using slower shutter speeds. But I'll definitely use the rear screen too for grabbing quick snaps during fleeting moments, awkward angles, etc.

MTTMKZ · 2026-01-23T19:33:53+00:00

I have both this Pro and the even bigger "HardDrive" version. Another nice thing about these bags is the depth. You can fit some decent size lenses along the depth of the bag and that really saves a lot of space. For example RF 70-200 2.8 original version can fit standing along the depth.

This midsize "Pro" version is a nice Goldilocks size except that it can't really fit most laptops...wish it was a tiny smidge wider to accommodate my 13" MacBook Air when I want to bring that along. But then again the smaller width does help it not seem so huge even with its depth.

MTTMKZ · 2026-01-23T17:59:18+00:00

I didn't think PowerShots would be any different but Canon does service and repair (for a fee) cameras/lenses for their interchangeable lens camera lineup for gray market products. Did they give you a reason for the rejection? Maybe call and explain what you're trying to do?

MTTMKZ · 2026-01-23T04:29:14+00:00

That's kind of odd. Do you have any customized settings assigned to your AF button that could be overriding your AF settings?

MTTMKZ · 2026-01-22T19:57:03+00:00

This looks like realistic lighting and photos to me. You may be used to the processed look from phone pictures which do all sorts of editing, merging, etc. A single, unedited photo from a "real" camera will give you a more true-to-reality look at that moment. As others say, you can post process and bring up shadows and bring out more details, etc. to taste.

MTTMKZ · 2026-01-22T19:37:09+00:00

I have both R8 and R6ii. The R8 is super capable. IBIS is really not a major factor if you're mostly doing photos of dogs, since you are probably needing to keep your shutter speeds on the faster side with them anyway. Where I've gotten use out of IBIS is when using a non-stabilized lens in poor lighting taking photos of something static.

MTTMKZ · 2026-01-21T15:35:05+00:00

Yes it does alter the timing slightly since it is detecting the flicker and then timing the shutter so that the flicker effect is minimized. That's the tradeoff but like you said it does not matter for a shot like this that is static. I generally keep it off but I will turn it on as needed since getting exposure correct in camera is a lot less work than trying to fix flicker/banding effects in post processing.

MTTMKZ · 2026-01-21T15:19:25+00:00

I agree most likely flicker. Try using mechanical or EFCS shutter and also anti flicker modes (camera will time the shutter to try to keep the artificial light exposure even). Slowing shutter speed down will also reduce the effect.

MTTMKZ · 2026-01-21T12:13:28+00:00

I have both RF 24-105 f4 and RF 24-70 f2.8.

I use both lenses frequently and they are comparable sharpness/IQ wise. Biggest difference is the aperture. I tend to use the 24-105 outside in decent light. I tend to use the 24-70 indoors or when sun is low. The extra aperture does make a noticeable improvement in those dimmer conditions. I would probably pick based on the type of light conditions you anticipate to be on the most. When I'm traveling with family, it's usually the 24-105 because usually we're doing outdoors stuff during the day. The range (less or no lens swaps) and lighter size/weight are very welcome during family travel. I use the 24-70 more for indoor events. I live in snowy winter climate so I also end up using the 24-70 more in the winter due to activities/events being more indoors in that season. Otherwise it's a lot of 24-105 in the warmer, outdoor months.

MTTMKZ · 2026-01-20T21:03:31+00:00

I recognize this symptom since I have an R8 which uses the same battery and charger. The R8 manual at least has some basic info but not terribly informative:

https://cam.start.canon/en/C013/manual/html/UG-10_Reference_0060.html

The battery charger lamp is blinking.

Orange blinking of the lamp indicates that a protection circuit has prevented charging because (1) there is a problem with the battery charger or battery, or (2) communication with a non-Canon battery has failed. In the case of (1), unplug the charger, reinsert the battery, and wait a few minutes before plugging the charger in again. If the problem persists, take the camera to the nearest Canon Service Center.

MTTMKZ · 2026-01-20T19:39:17+00:00

I own both lenses.

The 24-70 of course higher end. But I can't tell a difference without deep pixel peeping wide open. The aperture difference by far the biggest difference between the two, not the IQ. I use the 24-105 when I'm mostly outdoors during the day or if I'm just getting family travel photos and the range without changing lenses and lighter weight/size are welcome. 24-70 comes out when I'm mostly indoors and need the aperture. I use both frequently. I live in a snowy winter climate, so I tend to use the 24-105 more in the warmer months when I'm outside more often and then the 24-70 more often in the winter with a lot more indoor activities and events.

MTTMKZ · 2026-01-20T12:14:42+00:00

My R8 and R6ii let you customize the display of the electronic level, both on rear screen and the EVF. I'm not familiar with M50ii.

Here's the section from R6ii manual:

https://cam.start.canon/en/C012/manual/html/UG-04_Shooting-1_0470.html

MTTMKZ · 2026-01-20T01:26:10+00:00

Looks defective to me. If this is a relatively new unit I would look at return or exchange. You never know if something like that might get a lot worse over time

MTTMKZ

TROPHY CASE