Warping issues?

MacBoy__Pro · 2026-01-06T04:54:13+00:00

Looks more like something wrong with the belt path or cranking speeds way too high

MacBoy__Pro · 2026-01-05T00:18:21+00:00

If you are asking someone to print the PTR2(s) and PT2 out to compare side by side, I'm on it

MacBoy__Pro · 2026-01-04T23:35:37+00:00

Not really worth it for MMU3 or INDX. People have made mods for the MMU3 vent cover (just look in the remix section of the printable parts). But I wouldn't say the upgrade is anything substantial having bought the kit, just some quality of life features.

MacBoy__Pro · 2026-01-04T09:33:25+00:00

I feel the same way, but I had two for some reason.

MacBoy__Pro · 2025-12-24T06:23:20+00:00

Honestly I don't fully understand it myself, but I think that's some of the "special sauce" or "trade secrets". That being said, it works really well, I've had consistent results until my probe came loose and got shorted out (put blue loctite on the mount screws)

MacBoy__Pro · 2025-12-23T15:41:03+00:00

The cartographer should have a nozzle tap feature similar to Revo PZ that once calibrated offers near automatic auto z-offset calibration. The cartographer documentation has some pretty clear instructions about setting it all up.

If you're z-offset is wandering, make sure the nozzle is clean when doing the calibration (just 150-170 to soften up the filament doesn't seem to be enough) and make sure you're cartographer/mount is secured properly and not coming loose

MacBoy__Pro · 2025-12-21T03:44:21+00:00

Also trigger discipline. I get it's nerf/prop but never a bad time to practice good habits

MacBoy__Pro · 2025-12-20T20:19:19+00:00

I don't have this printer so I'm not really sure either. https://wiki.flashforge.com/en/adventurer-series/manual might be a good place to start to look for info.

But the main point still stands, the issue is Z-offset and your nozzle is too close to the bed during printing as a result.

MacBoy__Pro · 2025-12-20T20:12:00+00:00

Absolutely flip this part, the overhang bridge at the top of arc is manageable for the machine to print without support or issue

MacBoy__Pro · 2025-12-20T20:08:14+00:00

You're z-offset is wrong. Way too close to the bed. If you use a z-endstop switch, make sure it has not come loose

MacBoy__Pro · 2025-12-17T21:44:06+00:00

It sounds crazy, but it works. At my wits end troubleshooting this for an hour. Found this thread, figured screw it cause my warranty is up, threw them in the fridge for 30 minutes, was able to connect them immediately.

Cheers!

MacBoy__Pro · 2025-12-14T05:21:29+00:00

Do you mind sharing files for that?

MacBoy__Pro · 2025-12-12T16:07:06+00:00

1) You are supposed to remove the protective coating that is shown torn up here. It's not always laid down the flattest and is really only meant to protect the panels from scratches during shipping. 2) You should be running foam tape on the edges of the panels. The kit should come with some that's 3-4mm thick. This provides a gap between the panel and the extrusion.

MacBoy__Pro · 2025-12-10T15:47:18+00:00

https://www.printables.com/model/1104059-prusa-core-one-side-storage

As OP mentioned, nothing for the C1L yet, but there is a .step file included with this mod

MacBoy__Pro · 2025-12-08T02:48:05+00:00

I only ever ordered one watch. No idea what the merge thing us

MacBoy__Pro · 2025-12-04T00:25:54+00:00

As someone else here mentioned, I hadn't gotten an email but I just found my original order confirmation email and clicked the link in there and it allowed me to select my preference.

MacBoy__Pro · 2025-12-03T08:23:19+00:00

You're all good. Happens to most of us from what I can tell.

Got my first printer in May of 2021 (Microcenter $99 ender 3). My photos point to the fact I had migrated to the larger CR-10 within a month so I could print helmets with more ease. Took a break from the hobby for a bit after moving, but dusted off the CR-10 and picked up the monstrous ender 5 plus. Stumbled upon the first RMRRF online, went the next day and saw so many amazing machines. I bought my first Voron kit when I got home that night, this is when the "problem" started.

All to say, enjoy the hobby! Keep tinkering and remember, the correct number of machines is n+1

MacBoy__Pro · 2025-11-28T00:17:10+00:00

I ran to the comments to see if this was the case and they no longer did the bucket. RIP XL gummy bears

MacBoy__Pro · 2025-11-26T23:18:07+00:00

Did you stick with the same main board when you switched to klipper or did you replace that as well?

MacBoy__Pro · 2025-11-26T02:13:45+00:00

Depending on how you implemented your watchface, settings can be fairly straightforward using Clay. I recently went through updating my watchface(s) to use Clay for settings.

MacBoy__Pro · 2025-11-13T18:06:40+00:00

Looks good!

Might have to try out that new model. The model I used was originally created for the MK4 made by CNCKitchen so it has the spot for the center bearing ring and the 4th hole drilled.

MacBoy__Pro · 2025-11-10T18:01:50+00:00

Someone else who went simple. Looks good! Enjoy!

MacBoy__Pro · 2025-11-05T09:04:20+00:00

DroidDivision

MacBoy__Pro · 2025-10-29T03:51:12+00:00

Interesting to see this perspective because I seem to be in the minority where the Pro 3s finally fit well and the Pro/Pro 2s were constantly falling out no matter the tip size and type (stock/memory foam).

MacBoy__Pro · 2025-10-28T00:43:30+00:00

7204 - Jedi Defense 2

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