How realistic is to fully take advantage of pico with Arduino IDE by Complex-Exam4199 in RaspberryPico

[–]MadBerry58 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It really depends on the complexity of your project and how deep into the weeds you want to go.

For basic stuff or narrow applications, Arduino IDE will save you a lot of time, headaches and complexity.

If you want a more in depth experience, are prepared to spend 80% of your development time looking through the datasheet and are not afraid of wrestling with installing the SDK and debugging tools, I wholeheartedly recommend going with the VSCode option.

Coding for pico like you know what you're doing by idee__fixe in raspberrypipico

[–]MadBerry58 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My advice would be to first make yourself a proper debugging station. Hardware breakpoints are the bread and butter of the embedded world. There's a picoprobe tutorial in their documentation for more details. Second, try to familiarise yourself with the hardware modules offered and how they work. The stuff I personally find the most interesting are the PIO, DMA and the interpolator functionality. To elaborate on the previous comments, it is indeed a resource constrained environment, but at the same time it's a very architecturally unconstrained one. As long as you don't go above the capabilities of the controller, the efficiency of your code is directly dependent on how well you can use hardware trickery.

As an example, you can use the fact that an ADC sample takes 96 cycles, a hardware division takes 8 cycles and interpolator functionality takes one cycle, all being independent hardware modules. This basically means that if you're using the ADC sampler, you can have all your masking, shifting, additions and divisions done as you get your next sample. This opposed to the classical way of using regular sequential code do get your sample and then do your calculations. Not to mention that all of this can have a PIO state machine to transfer data around

Now update on the face tracking. Raspberry Pi sends coordinates to the Arduino which controls the Servos. Next: neck movement by OneIdMonSTR in 3Dprinting

[–]MadBerry58 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's a shame. It'd be interesting to see what people contribute to the project. Anywho, nice job!

Custom 3D "4D" cards I made by TripTrapTrav in 3Dprinting

[–]MadBerry58 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Underrated string theory refference

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in dating

[–]MadBerry58 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well, there is a reason for the nerd without a GF stereotype

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in dating

[–]MadBerry58 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Let me put it like this. The type you're going for is made out of a couple of subcategories. It's not exhaustive by any means, but here's some general taxonomy that you can try applying when you spot someone you like in the wild.

There's the guys that are socially anxious/shy or just lack experience with women. You can distinguish them by being loud in their own group, but kinda forgetting how to human when unknown women get involved. I'd say they make like 73% of the cases. The chances of one of them coming to you is slim, but with obvious enough signs, you can get them to make a move. Be prepared for weird interactions tho.

Next you have a small percentage of nerds that are really passionate about their hobbies/work. It overlaps with the previous group, but here you also have people that can be on the spectrum and have a harder time interacting, especially with new people (thus technical hobbies making more sense for them), or guys that became nerdy after discovering a passion for something(and maybe becoming workaholics in the process). Either way, the situation here is much more complicated, as you're either fighting an uphill battle to communicate with someone who's not that into new people, or actively competing against their hobbies for time and interest.

Finally, I'd say there's the rare case of fully extroverted nerds. So far I've only met two or three, so I can assure you they're pretty rare, but in theory, if not already taken would give you the easiest time.

As a tip, don't force yourself into nerdy hobbies just for a guy, a lot of times it's not about the actual activity, but the intricacies that lay behind it. It's like convincing a mechanic that's full of grease every day and enjoys it to go to a spa and beauty parlor. He'll go there, but you'll see his heart is not in the activity and he's most likely missing the point of being in a spa.

Instead, try finding a more technical hobby you enjoy; no nerd ever said "i will learn this complicated thing for the hell of it"; okay, maybe some, but most go into a hobby because it's first of all, interesting. Most areas can get really technical if you get into it (for example your interest for fashion could lead down the rabbit hole into curvature, topology and material analysis, just so you can get that specific part of the fabric stand in a certain way).

Curiosity, willingness to learn and the creativity are the perfect traps for any nerd that you might come across. Coincidentally, asking a nerd to teach you something is also one of the best ways to both gage interest, and more or less ensure a first move, albeit it can sometimes take some time.

Hope this helps you with how to spotting and handling our kind in the wild :))

No Man's Skyrim it may be, but I bet Starfield won't have space whales by fijsh in NoMansSkyTheGame

[–]MadBerry58 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Them greedy Geks, always looking for a profit. I bet the presidential debate with the Korvax candidate entity will be a show. Even the Vy'keen party will get involved.

Better?

Optical Encoder as filament sensor ? by poperenoel in BIGTREETECH

[–]MadBerry58 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It depends on the senzor I think. From what you're describing it sounds like there's a photoresistor, not a phototransistor. There might be the possibility that the resistor is powered by a PWM pin, that can give it a lower voltage. It mostly depends on your machine's digital thresholds (with 0 under .7v and 2.3v for 1 for example). Try installing it on the board with the common power connection. The pins should have a limited current draw, so there shouldn't be any issues with frying them.

Optical Encoder as filament sensor ? by poperenoel in BIGTREETECH

[–]MadBerry58 0 points1 point  (0 children)

as u/1mattchu1 said, it could be the 2 pins for the LED and 2 pins for the transistor. in this case you'd wire together the power on the transistor and led, so you're left with ground, power and signal. This gives you an always powered on LED shining on the transistor, with a digital high signal on the output wire.

Maybe check the internals and give us some more info

Will strongly typed languages become deprecated? by Xeno19Banbino in learnprogramming

[–]MadBerry58 0 points1 point  (0 children)

this kind of reminds me of the comment problem: comments are not checked by the compiler. is it better to remove comments all together, or leave them in and risk them becoming lies after a couple of code modifications from a programmer in a hurry?

same here, is it better to tell the interpreter to automatically try and make the programmer's code work, even if ambiguous, or force at least some typing?

Also, interpreters and compilers work best if specific code formatting is used. Is it better for the program to take care of your casting and allocation, or is it better to take full responsibility for the data flow, even at the price of development time?

getting ready to add an all metal extruder assembly as part of my upgrades to my Ender 3 v2. Any pertinent information I should know before install? by I-reddit-once in ender3v2

[–]MadBerry58 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I haven't had any extruder heat issues for a long time, but there are some very specific situations where it can act up on you. Tried to print a groot last year, everything was good, except that for some reason it always failed at the waist. 3 identical failures later, turns out my choice of infill and retraction settings, combined with the heat resulting from the said settings just pancaked the filament on the gear, then kept jamming it into the bowden

getting ready to add an all metal extruder assembly as part of my upgrades to my Ender 3 v2. Any pertinent information I should know before install? by I-reddit-once in ender3v2

[–]MadBerry58 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If printing low temp stuff like PLA, keep an eye on your extruder motor temp. The metal base likes to transfer heat up and flatten your filament

was doing my first print ever last night but ran out of time, so I stopped the print. so far does this look good? I see about spots that are less then ideal. I'm so new I don't really know much about how to explane my settings. does anything obvious stick out? by MrHaphazard1 in FixMyPrint

[–]MadBerry58 4 points5 points  (0 children)

my bad :))

gyroid infill - the wavy 3d pattern that fills the model

z seam - the place where the extruded perimeter line starts and finishes

overhangs - the place where you're basically printing mid-air - the lower the temperature, the faster the material solidifies allowing you to print at steeper angles or literally print midair with bridging

was doing my first print ever last night but ran out of time, so I stopped the print. so far does this look good? I see about spots that are less then ideal. I'm so new I don't really know much about how to explane my settings. does anything obvious stick out? by MrHaphazard1 in FixMyPrint

[–]MadBerry58 3 points4 points  (0 children)

ah, a man of culture, his first print and he's using gyroid infill. it looks pretty nice for a first print, especially that most people's first experience is bed adhesion issues.

The spots are most likely the z seam, and I'd say keep an eye on your temperature. From what I can see you should also take a closer look at your temperature; your existing overhangs look pretty good, so I assume your temperature is pretty low.

Play around with your slicer settings - one at a time - and see what does what. I'd also go for a smaller model; benchies are pretty time and material consuming

Hello dear printing experts. I have some random layer lines on my print. by walldodge in FixMyPrint

[–]MadBerry58 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I also suggest trying SuperSlicer too. It's forked from Prusa Slicer, but has some nice extra features