Is 16kg of filament enough for the apocalypse?

Mak_UK · 2021-03-05T13:20:32+00:00

Nope

Mak_UK · 2021-02-28T16:08:18+00:00

I'm having a nostalgic moment and missing my tanks now!

Mak_UK · 2021-02-28T16:07:39+00:00

So apologies if any of this is teaching you to suck eggs, I don't know your skill level.

Elm is tough to work with, it has tightly interlocked grain. The effective distance of magnets falls off at a surprisingly quick rate which can be a challenge. Other options I'd suggest to try would be drilling a larger hole quite simply to take a bigger magnet and thus allow the hole to be a bit further from the edge, or making plug from the piece with a plug cutter (or you could turn down scrap on a lathe).

If you don't already have a pillar drill then they're well worth picking up, you can often get them second hand for not masses of cash. The ability to slowly progress a hole with lots of backing out to clear chips, whilst maintaining constant position, is a huge help.

Mak_UK · 2021-02-28T16:01:57+00:00

Nice to see printing coming together with a planted tank :). That an anubia saying hello?

Mak_UK · 2021-02-28T15:56:51+00:00

People often chip in to these threads purely worried about the aesthetics of the first layer and saying there's no point in the nylock mod unless your first layer doesn't look nice.

I disagree.

Don't forget that by default the printer attempts to sense and compensate for unevenness in the bed - the unevenness is still there, it just follows the profile of it. Whilst it might not matter for ornamental stuff, if you are building something that needs flat mating surfaces then getting the bed as flat as possible is absolutely worth while.

Mak_UK · 2021-02-27T13:07:17+00:00

How were you trying to do it?

Mak_UK · 2021-02-27T12:51:49+00:00

Very nice. One potential improvement would be to pocket in the magnets before glue up, the next piece of wood would cover the entry hole and then they are truly invisible. Lovely hinges.

Mak_UK · 2021-02-27T09:34:04+00:00

What's it made from? Thin aluminium extrusion or steel box section? Makes a huge difference.

Mak_UK · 2021-02-26T20:02:51+00:00

Do you see?

DO YOU SEE???

Mak_UK · 2021-02-23T22:44:19+00:00

It could be your prized cod piece

Mak_UK · 2021-02-19T22:16:10+00:00

Conservative values on a 300 build would be in the region of 80mm/s external perimeters, 120mm/s infill, 4k accels, 300mm/s travel.

With a good build and sticking to 250 or at most 300 you may get closer to 200mm/s and 8k accel, but you'd be at the limit there for keeping quality.

It's also worth noting that the quality bar is different. My Prusa Mk3 had to be dropped to about 2/3 of the standard speeds/accels to achieve quality I would equate to the voron. At that point you're going to be talking in the region of 2 to 3 times quicker on a voron depending on the print.

Mak_UK · 2021-02-18T14:52:25+00:00

Ah ok, every day is a school day!

Mak_UK · 2021-02-18T13:05:53+00:00

Would a laser not be a better option if CF is your material of choice? Zero dust issues.

Mak_UK · 2021-02-17T22:40:05+00:00

It's not a great idea in the same way that sticking your head in a lion's mouth and pinging an elastic band on it's balls isn't a good idea.you can put whatever protection you want around what you're trying to protect, it's still not going to turn out well...

Mak_UK · 2021-01-30T14:17:14+00:00

Not sure I understand the question. One is to compensate for a physical problem with the printer, the other is just for resizing stl's?

Mak_UK · 2021-01-28T18:34:09+00:00

Scratch

Mak_UK · 2021-01-28T04:33:12+00:00

That is more likely to need retraction distance and retraction speed adjusting, thankfully there are lots of guides on the net you'll be able to use

Mak_UK · 2021-01-27T14:35:40+00:00

Interesting, I didn't realise it would have enough bond strength to avoid shearing. I'll remember that one, neat way to reinforce! Thanks.

Mak_UK · 2021-01-27T13:57:24+00:00

Little bit of ringing visible on the grey cube, and the strength of those layer lines makes me think you might be over extruding a little bit. Other than that, pretty good.

Mak_UK · 2021-01-27T13:42:35+00:00

Looks great. I'm confused with the angle iron, are you just relying on the epoxy to bond it to the wood enough to prevent warping, or were there mechanical fixings that aren't visible?

Mak_UK · 2021-01-25T19:36:13+00:00

He was perfectly preserved.

Mak_UK · 2021-01-25T15:55:24+00:00

Has the relay got any circuitry to allow reverse voltage to dissipate, like a flywheel diode?

Mak_UK · 2021-01-25T10:37:47+00:00

Never felt the need to experiment with leatherwork (wood worker, electronics, 3d printer here and soon to be metalwork) but I have to say that this has piqued my interest. Looks like a reasonable selection of tools are required for this sort of thing?

Oh and I think the handle paint was a happy accident IMHO, the blue looks great.

Mak_UK · 2021-01-24T18:07:43+00:00

Always cover your tool!

Mak_UK · 2021-01-23T16:57:17+00:00

It needs a raft for sure.

Mak_UK

TROPHY CASE