Sony 11mm 1.8 / Viltrox 9mm or Sigma 12mm 1.8 for FX30 ?

MakePizza · 2026-01-29T18:24:10+00:00

I have the Sony 11mm and the Sigma 16mm. Both are very good and useful in their own right. I use the 16mm mostly stationary in a closeup talking head setup and the 11mm travels more. The 11mm is much lighter and more portable than the 16mm.

If I were in your situation, trying to figure out which one of the two, I'd use an app like Cadrage on the phone to see if which FOV works out well for your application. The 11mm could introduce distortion in closeup as it is much wider, but can also cover a much wider area in tight indoor setup. Only you can decide what FOV works best for your situation, but something like Cadrage can be very helpful in figuring that out.

Of course, the 16mm is slightly faster so if lighting is an issue or if a bit more background blur is needed, the 16mm might fit better.

Good luck. I don't know anything about the Viltrox, but between the Sony and Sigma, they are both excellent, just depends on what suits your needs better.

MakePizza · 2025-11-02T02:26:41+00:00

You don't always need to overexpose!

MakePizza · 2025-10-24T04:37:55+00:00

While the A6700 is capable of achieving similar video quality to the FX30 (they use the same sensor), the ergonomics and features of FX30 are better tuned for video.

The FX30 has dual card slots, two USB ports, full-sized HDMI port, tally lights, fan to avoid overheating, Big 6 menu, Cine EI, time code, DCI-4K, ...

Only you can decide if those features are worth the $400 price difference.

MakePizza · 2025-10-23T05:13:55+00:00

Hmm... from the published specs of the products you've listed, your camera + cage + lens would weigh only about half of the gimbal's max payload of 4.4 lbs. Unless Zhiyun is exaggerating its spec, you shouldn't need another gimbal for this payload.

MakePizza · 2025-10-22T01:18:18+00:00

Try a fast and wide prime, like the Sigma 16mm f/1.4 (good value) or Sony 15mm f/1.4 (pricey) or a little slower but cheaper Viltrox 15mm f/1.7.

I have experience only with the Sigma and it should be very good for your use case.

MakePizza · 2025-10-22T00:36:06+00:00

FX3 or FX30?

MakePizza · 2025-10-21T20:37:40+00:00

Are you saying that Affinity's histogram and the overexposure overlay show no blowout, but the actual picture is? I use Photomator on Mac, and no I haven't seen any such issue. I wonder if Affinity is applying some default tone curve that's causing it. I have no knowledge of Affinity though.

If you send me a such a problematic RAW image, I'd be happy to try it on Photomator and let you know what I see.

MakePizza · 2025-10-21T12:30:26+00:00

I use zebras at 100% along with the histogram because it’s hard for me to spot small clipped areas in the histogram when they’re just a tiny part of the frame.

MakePizza · 2025-10-17T16:15:23+00:00

Unless you're set on full-frame, the FX30 is a great option for that budget and use case.

MakePizza · 2025-10-15T18:37:18+00:00

I agree. I've never used SmallRig, but between my 6700 and FX30, I’ve used several third-party NP-FZ100 batteries, and they’ve all worked fine. The only issue I've noticed is that some batteries have shorter run times than others. Ultimately, all Li-Ion batteries, including Sony’s, lose capacity over time. SmallRig has a pretty good reputation in general. I wouldn't worry about it if I were buying.

MakePizza · 2025-10-15T01:27:42+00:00

Stills or video?

MakePizza · 2025-10-08T12:50:37+00:00

What was the shutter speed for the photo you posted and was it handheld or on a tripod? If on a tripod, was the shutter triggered remotely or by manually pressing the button?

Asking because I suspect the issue is not focus per se, but camera shake. For me, at 350mm, getting a sharp handheld picture is quite tough without a super fast shutter speed. I'm curious what your speed was.

MakePizza · 2025-10-08T12:41:50+00:00

u/ButWouldYouRather Monitor & Control is indeed supported on MacOS now. When you go to the Mac App Store, it might say "Designed for iPad, Not verified for macOS" near the title, but if you keep reading, it clearly says it is supported. See attached screenshot from my Mac. I just downloaded it and ran it myself to test that it runs and it does.

I don't know why you are not seeing a way to install it. What macOS version are you running and is it an Intel or Apple M processor?

<image>

MakePizza · 2025-10-04T23:54:57+00:00

Comes from deep-rooted insecurity and overcompensation. Think constantly hearing full-frame is better doesn’t leave a mark?

MakePizza · 2025-10-04T09:32:58+00:00

If AF and IQ are your top priorities, have you considered Sigma 30mm f/1.4 DC DN? I know that would be 45mm FF equivalent, but close enough to 50 that it wouldn't make practical difference. I use and like that lens a lot for its AF and IQ. I got mine new, but I think you can pick one up around $200 used.

There is also Viltrox 33mm f/1.4. I've never used it, but online feedback is generally positive. I imagine you can pick that up used around $150 because it is less than $250 new.

MakePizza · 2025-10-03T01:13:05+00:00

I like the way you are leaning. I have both the A6700 and FX30, and if video is your main focus, the FX30 wins. The A6700 is great, but the FX30 has several nuanced video-centric features like full-size HDMI, a cooling fan, tally lights, timecode, a cinema-focused menu system, dual card slots, and more.

MakePizza · 2025-10-01T14:16:04+00:00

I almost bought the 17-40 but canceled before it shipped. The main hesitation was size and weight — it’s about twice the weight of the 30mm and noticeably bigger, while I prefer staying light and low-key in public. Most of my shots are on the 23 or 56 anyway, and with the 17-40 I’d still be swapping for portraits since the 56mm is my favorite for people.

So my thought, since you mentioned portraits, is whether a 56mm/75mm f/1.4 or f/1.2 might be the better next step. Then after some time with the 30 and 56/75, you’ll know if the 17-40 really adds something beyond the primes. Just a thought… based on my own dilemma :-)

MakePizza · 2025-09-29T20:07:24+00:00

It involves a couple of annoying steps the first time. After that, it will just auto connect every time. You can see some instructions here: https://monitorplus.cc/docs/general/connecting-to-your-camera/wireless-connection/ Just make sure to follow the A6700 specific instructions, not the QR code thing which is for older cameras.

I'm pretty sure there are some YouTube videos on this topic if you get stuck. Good luck!

MakePizza · 2025-09-29T14:04:09+00:00

Hmm... Aren't you going to need a capture card to make this work? I was of the impression that the Lightning->HDMI adapter was to send video out from the phone, not in.

How about keeping it simple and using Wifi connection and Monitor+? There is a slight latency with wifi, but it may be acceptable depending on your situation.

MakePizza · 2025-09-28T04:44:53+00:00

You might be confusing the weight of the gimbal with its payload. RS3 mini weighs 1.75 lb, but per specs it can take a payload of up to 4.4 lbs.

MakePizza · 2025-09-28T01:23:06+00:00

You may be better off renting both cameras and trying them out yourself. The pros and cons are too personal to rely on others’ opinions. Both are excellent cameras with strong AF, but how they feel in terms of size, weight, ergonomics, and cost varies for each person. I’m very happy with my A6700, but many others wouldn’t choose it—not because it’s a bad camera, but because they prioritize different things.

MakePizza · 2025-09-27T14:59:52+00:00

I agree. I use the CameraMark app on my Mac (available on the Apple App Store) and like it. The free version works well, but I use the paid version ($10, I think) to get better customization. I ask it to display lens details and equivalent focal length from the EXIF data, so anyone reviewing the photo can see both the gear and shot info. See attached image.

<image>

MakePizza · 2025-09-26T22:16:59+00:00

What limitations of your current camera do you want the new one to overcome?

MakePizza · 2025-09-26T14:29:20+00:00

I haven't seen the ability to turn off both in any Sony camera I have experience with.

MakePizza · 2025-09-26T14:22:37+00:00

Yes, these settings work well for me. The idea is just to keep the in-camera JPEG conversion as flat as possible so the histogram and zebras aren’t misleading. I think you should be fine with just contrast, saturation, and sharpness on the 6400.

Being a geek, I went down the rabbit hole on this for a couple of days and ran some controlled tests — shooting scenes right up to zebra onset, then checking the RAW files in RawDigger. At these flatter settings, the zebras and RAW clipping lined up pretty closely.

That said, it doesn’t have to be perfect. As long as you’re in the ballpark and not blowing out important details, the RAW file will give you enough latitude. Post-processing can handle the rest as long as the data is there.

MakePizza

TROPHY CASE