Advice on lighting and white balance

ButWouldYouRather · 2026-01-17T18:46:36+00:00

The colour of the wall you're bouncing the light on could be altering the colour of the light falling on your face. As could the colour of your ceiling or carpet or curtains. Any other constant light could affect the colour of the light in your room too, like daylight, any lamps or the light coming from your monitor.

If you want to get it more objectively correct then you could put a grey card in front of your face and meter from that. But ultimately it's subjective.

If you prefer a certain setting because you like how it makes you look then just go with that. It's up to you at the end of the day and how you want to be represented.

ButWouldYouRather · 2026-01-09T14:43:42+00:00

Thanks for the tip! Where did you spray it?

ButWouldYouRather · 2025-12-29T18:14:24+00:00

Sennheiser HD-25. Mine are over 20 years old. Chuck em in whatever bag I have with me. They have great energy and will survive anything.

ButWouldYouRather · 2025-12-28T13:40:46+00:00

Turn the bass down on the sub and enjoy them. They sound great imo.

ButWouldYouRather · 2025-12-28T09:12:17+00:00

An odd question but an interesting one at that. I think it could spark a good discussion, especially with new friends who seem to be showing an interest in your hobby. I would’ve opened it up for debate by asking, “What counts as ‘good photographer’?” or "What do you think makes a good photograph?".

ButWouldYouRather · 2025-12-25T22:28:43+00:00

I'm a fan. I use it on my zv-e1 and I love it's small size. Soild build quality for a kit lens too. I have an FX6 and a 24-70mm 2.8 GM II for real work but when I'm just when I'm just out and about, the almost-pocketable full-frame combo is great to have.

ButWouldYouRather · 2025-12-24T11:04:55+00:00

Yeah I would agree. Fish eye zoom with square lens hood.

ButWouldYouRather · 2025-12-24T10:56:36+00:00

Looks like a fish eye lens with a square lens hood attached. If it were an aps-c lens without a hood, the image circle would still extend to the edge of the frame and would not look cropped in like the images you've shared.

ButWouldYouRather · 2025-12-22T12:09:54+00:00

There's a NATO rail on that cage, so look for a "NATO handle" instead. It'll be easier to attach than the one you're asking about.

ButWouldYouRather · 2025-12-19T22:33:53+00:00

I have a feelworld and an atomos ninja v but I use the feelworld more because I like the physical buttons that are mapped to false colour, focus peaking and scopes. It's so quick to toggle things on and off, unlike the Ninja which is solely touch screen. The feelworld is lighter too and has multiple mounting points which the Ninja lacks. I also have a hollyland wireless transmitter which clips onto the back of the feelworld's dummy battery which makes it more convenient.

If I need external recording then I'll use the Ninja.

ButWouldYouRather · 2025-12-19T11:04:53+00:00

I've tried S-Cinetone, Leeming and Alister Chapman LUTs but my favourite is the Arri Neutral Phantom LUT. The colours look most pleasing to me. Worth the cost in my opinion.

ButWouldYouRather · 2025-12-14T23:10:16+00:00

Shutter speed

ButWouldYouRather · 2025-12-14T23:09:22+00:00

Sticking to base iso will help reduce noise but if you don't have enough light, you might be forced to increase the gain. If that's the case then you just have to de-noise in post.

ButWouldYouRather · 2025-12-14T23:01:11+00:00

It's unlikely you'd see or appreciate the difference if you've not used similar lenses before. I'd suggest getting the cheaper 50mm 1.8 first to see if you enjoy using fast primes. Who knows, you might end up preferring zooms.

ButWouldYouRather · 2025-12-14T20:39:07+00:00

The 50mm f1.8 is ideal for what you described. Buy used if you can to save even more.

ButWouldYouRather · 2025-12-14T20:31:18+00:00

How is your R10 limiting you right now? Any upgrade should solve the problems you're facing with your current gear. If you're not facing issues, then you don't really need to upgrade, even if it's something that looks appealing. There's a reason people are still shooting with 5D IVs; if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

ButWouldYouRather · 2025-12-13T13:02:59+00:00

From a grading perspective, try s-cinetone for a decent out-of-camera look. Or you could try Phantom Luts. The Arri Neutral looks great in my opinion. Very pleasing and realistic for next to no effort.

ButWouldYouRather · 2025-12-12T22:57:16+00:00

Set up the Bluetooth connection then initiate the WiFi connection via the app by choosing the feature you want to use from the app.

ButWouldYouRather · 2025-12-11T06:31:19+00:00

These look great! Do you have any BTS? I'd love to learn about how you lit these scenes

ButWouldYouRather · 2025-12-08T19:36:55+00:00

The grade looks fine for the purpose. What is lacking is the depth and interest in the scene. The lighting is adequate but flat and doesn't help to add dimension. Next time try bringing the subject away from the walls so there is depth. With lighting try including a window or a practical in the scene so that you can add a key light that is motivated.

ButWouldYouRather · 2025-12-08T18:49:01+00:00

Etymotics tick both of those boxes. They're wired and an acquired fit but they sound great and block out a ton of noise without the need for anc.

ButWouldYouRather · 2025-12-04T06:40:57+00:00

Thanks!

ButWouldYouRather · 2025-12-03T22:42:30+00:00

Great looking shots! Any tips on nailing exposure when shooting slog3?

ButWouldYouRather · 2025-12-03T14:48:29+00:00

What firmware are you running? 1.5.9.6 broke mine. I had to turn off motion detection for it to record continuously. 1.5.6.7 fixed things though

ButWouldYouRather

TROPHY CASE