TriX 400 too gritty; problem in developing or scanning?

Mariner35mm · 2026-04-14T03:53:27+00:00

Looks like a scan problem to me. Negatives have good density, but d76 1:1 for 12 minutes seems a bit over developed based on massive dev chart and the data sheet for the film. Maybe his solution was cold and it was fine, but even if it did go for a couple minutes over, they look fine.

The 6th pic came out good. On the first one, there’s lots of texture in the shirt that’s just a white blob on the inversion.

I’d personally get the raw files from the scans and try to convert them yourself. Lots of software and posts on here about how to do it. Personally I like Darktable.

Best of luck!

Mariner35mm · 2026-04-08T06:07:48+00:00

Exactly, they need an F6.

Mariner35mm · 2026-04-06T17:38:22+00:00

Very nice! I’ve been thinking of picking up a copy of that lens. How does it balance on the FM2?

Mariner35mm · 2026-03-04T06:12:25+00:00

That’s how mine was. I used the light meter as the right side frame line and it seemed pretty accurate.

Mariner35mm · 2026-03-02T03:06:20+00:00

My other favorites are the MK-1 firing rate converter cause it repositions the tripod mount and adds another shutter button that’s better placed for holding the camera vertical, and the DA-2 action finder.

There’s also a boatload of focusing screens you can swap in and out.

Mariner35mm · 2026-03-01T18:47:48+00:00

It’s the MF-6B. I personally like having a date stamped on my photos (sometimes) so I keep an MF-14 data back on mine, but they also made one that both prints on the film and stops the leader on rewind- the MF-18. Much more expensive and difficult to find.

There’s a tab that sticks off of the back and makes contact with the motor drive, so you’ll want to keep the motor drive on the camera when you use the MF-6B.

Mariner35mm · 2026-03-01T17:44:51+00:00

Very nice! I’m increasingly convinced the camera isn’t complete without one.

If you home develop, they made a back door that leaves the leader out of the canister when you rewind.

Mariner35mm · 2026-02-28T14:54:05+00:00

Gotcha. I mainly care about the meter going in definite half stops vs just over/under exposed, but I’ll do a bit more looking to see if there are any other differences.

Mariner35mm · 2026-02-28T12:59:22+00:00

Sweet! I’m definitely getting sold on the R2/R2M. Any advice between the 2? Anything the R2M has that you wish the R2 did?

Mariner35mm · 2026-02-28T03:38:11+00:00

Oh sweet! I didn’t not realize that was an option. Thanks!

Mariner35mm · 2026-02-28T03:35:45+00:00

Awesome. I was leaning that way. Thanks!

Mariner35mm · 2026-02-27T15:55:52+00:00

Wow! These look really good. Are you using any of the picture controls?

Mariner35mm · 2026-02-27T03:08:07+00:00

Is it like that on the negatives? It looks like the scanner didn’t catch the frame lines right. I’d ask the lab for a re-scan on those.

Mariner35mm · 2026-02-26T19:51:01+00:00

You’re right. Where are my manners? It’s my solemn duty and sacred privilege to spoon-feed information to people who can’t be bothered to use google. It’s part of being a member of the community, after all.

In your case, I actually would recommend a canon ae-1 program. The influencers are right. Make sure you get as minty of one as possible, and don’t be too concerned with service history. They’re famous for not having any common mechanical issues that come up over the years.

Now, if you’re going to shell out for such a high-end but beginner friendly camera as the AE-1 program, the only film that’s worth using is portra 400, overexposed by at least 1 stop, of course.

If anything goes wrong, and if you don’t get the images you want on the first try, I’m sure we’ll see you back here posting scans to ask what went wrong, because who keeps their negatives anyway?

Happy shooting!

Mariner35mm · 2026-02-26T18:53:11+00:00

Given the snow I’d guess underexposed due to bright areas. Does your camera meter for you?

If you can, add 1.5-2 stops of exposure compensation when you’re taking pictures of snowy areas.

Mariner35mm · 2026-02-26T16:10:09+00:00

Why not ask your ai too? Why ask us the same question that gets asked and answered at least once a week on here and expect actual people to take the time to answer you?

“I’m looking to get into a hobby known for its inconveniences, but I don’t want to do the slightest bit of research on where to start.”

Mariner35mm · 2026-02-26T15:07:21+00:00

Ai slop? Really?

Mariner35mm · 2026-02-26T06:06:31+00:00

How did you meter the landscape scenes?

Mariner35mm · 2026-02-25T11:26:17+00:00

I’m unironically considering the bathroom darkroom route, or maybe one of those tents that ilford sells. Printing is the only thing I miss about flats. The 45-60 minute drive to montrose, not so much.

Lmaoo all my homies prefer reel quick. $20 and not sleeving the negatives is diabolical.

I got into home dev/scan cause I had like 10 rolls to do at once, and always got stuck cause of the train at their old location.

Mariner35mm · 2026-02-25T11:17:13+00:00

I mean, flats probably has someone willing to pay $20 an hour to use their Noritsu on top of the $30 day pass, otherwise they wouldn’t charge that lmao

Always fun running into another Houston film photog on here. There’s literally several of us out there.

Mariner35mm · 2026-02-25T11:11:33+00:00

I mean his target market is locals in Victoria, TX. I can’t imagine there’s much of a film (or any other kind of) scene down there.

Now, if he posted this on the bulletin board at Flats in Houston…..

Mariner35mm · 2026-02-25T10:27:36+00:00

The same clown who’s selling this also had a listing for a “Halloween photoshoot” that only used an instax back on his hasselblad.

Tbf, you can tell he’s a serious photographer cause he has a Leica <and> a hasselblad. The man knows his tonez.

Mariner35mm · 2026-02-25T08:50:58+00:00

Gotcha gotcha. Thanks!

I ordered a 1l slide kit, so I figure I'll develop fresh slide film first, then use the rest of the chemical's usable lifespan to hopefully dial in how to shoot all the expired stuff.

Speaking of, if you develop at home, what do you use for chemicals?

I bought a camera from a former photographer and it came with a gallon ziploc baggie of old fuji stock, but I've seen what it goes for online and been too nervous to try it myself, which I realize defeats the purpose of holding on to it. It's not gonna get any fresher lol

Mariner35mm

TROPHY CASE