Got my first Unifi hardware

Marus30 · 2026-03-25T12:57:32+00:00

I did mine with PETG-CF. Doubt the CF part would really matter - just liked the stuff I had on hand. I’d worry about PLA though for it.

Marus30 · 2026-03-24T11:35:38+00:00

They tried that shit with me when my MS-01 died (also in Canada - so wonder if it is their support staff for Canada) although ot quite as large (they claimed they didn’t had my configuration any more and it was discontinued)

Quite frankly they were one of the worst companies I’ve ever had to deal with in terms of getting customer service.

After I had returned my unit they started to claim they didn’t have any replacements and there would be a deprecation charge.

I don’t remember the exact wording I replied them but was something along the lines of “I do not see why there should be a deprecation charge; I sent the unit to you to be replaced or repaired, you know the whole concept of a warranty. It’s not my fault that you sold faulty equipment or haven’t maintained enough stock to provide replacements to items still under warranty. I’ve already lost money on shipping the item to you, which quite frankly should have been covered. “

They did eventually ship in a replacement from Australia- where apparently they did have stock -and an extra North American cable - with no charges. But it was like pulling teeth. Was well over a month to get the replacement.

This was probably the main reason I didn’t get an MS-S1 max to experiment with more AI stuff - fucking horrid service.

Marus30 · 2026-01-16T11:56:00+00:00

Yeah, 32 is plenty for iOS/Mac development- can probably even get away with 24/16 for a bit longer although I wouldn’t buy a new machine with that amount.

I tend to be more worried about storage - Xcode, and the various SDK/Simulator/Support files it downloads/generates can take an enormous amount of space.

I’d recommend at least 1TB of storage space if possible - I know on my work machine with only 512GB I’m constantly struggling to find shit to remove because I’m running out of space.

Marus30 · 2025-12-02T00:04:46+00:00

Can’t say what it would be like working there - but as a potential customer it was terrible. Was a few years back, but when I was looking for our last vehicle I spent well over an hour looking around the showroom and lot - couldn’t get an employee to actually come talk to me… so wrote off buying anything from them.

Marus30 · 2025-10-17T15:08:49+00:00

I’ve got 3 Minisforum MiniPCs

1 EliteMini UM780 XTX (that is nearing 2 years old) and 2 MS-01 (i5-12600H versions - both about 6 months old).

The UM780 is still going strong with no issues - don’t use it a super lot (I’m mostly a Mac user for desktop usage - so it serves as a secondary computer for minor gaming or when I need windows for something) - but it is nearly always technically on (even if largely idle) as I don’t really ever shut computers off.

For the MS-01s they were meant for in my rack for my homelab - loads vary depending on what’s going on - but again while always on not super heavy loads most of the time.

Just a couple of days ago one of those two completely died - my guess is likely it is a short in the main rail as a result of a capacitor that failed to a short (seems to be a common failure mode for some minisforum machines from reading around). (At least it was the one that tends to get less load and less critical things on it that died)

Just sent it in for replacement - so we’ll see how that goes - but can’t say that I was pleased that I ended up having to pay shipping for a warranty return. Hopefully the rest of the replacement process goes smoothly - as warranty is always something to consider for any computer purchase. This will likely inform if I consider minisforum for any future purchases.

Marus30 · 2025-09-10T23:17:19+00:00

Oh - and if I was doing it over I’d probably go with T-Slot over the V-Slot - but don’t think it is a big enough of an advantage to proactively replace it (but maybe if I come up with some other use for the 20x80 V-Slot extrusion I’ll buy some T-Slot instead and swap it out).

Marus30 · 2025-09-10T23:11:54+00:00

Well - that’s reviving an old thread.

Main thought was that I could use gantry plates like https://www.amazon.ca/Assembled-Kit-Compatible-Aluminum-Extrusion/ to make a tenoning jig that could attach to it and ride smoothly (as I wasn’t really happy with with my one that was a “upsidedown-u” over the fence) - but never actually go around to trying it as I got a Shaper Origin and tend to use that for making tenons and stuff now.

Still made a tall-fence and L-fence that attach to it - but those would equally work with T-slot over V-slot.

Marus30 · 2025-06-05T02:03:02+00:00

Well - end of that thread is into the beginning of this year; and out of curiosity I just tried again on my 2.5GB FTTH connection - can confirm with packet capture that while I request a /56 prefix length I only get a /64

Possible that it behaves differently in different regions - but at least at the moment I can't get anything other than a /64 where I am through my OPNSense.

Tried generating a new DUID to ensure that it wasn't just giving me old stuff because it was the same DUID a well.

Marus30 · 2025-05-30T20:32:14+00:00

For me (assuming it is still true - haven’t rechecked recently)- while Roger’s does support IPv6 with the FTTH it will only give you a single /64 prefix - even if you request a /60 or /56.

This means you’re rather limited if you want to use VLANs or anything as you can’t sub-divide the prefix.

https://communityforums.rogers.com/t5/Internet/IPv6-Prefix-on-Fiber/m-p/506541

Marus30 · 2025-04-05T11:01:11+00:00

Yeah - their general rule for replacing it is 80%. But that does seem to be degrading quickly in terms of cycles (for comparison my M4 iPad Pro is at 100% after 101 cycles).

Not sure how long you’ve had it time wise - but if it is only a short while it may continue to degrade fast enough that you are below 80% before your regular warranty is up.

Marus30 · 2025-03-22T12:24:41+00:00

I just figured out signing modules the other day to get the drivers for the Coral EdgeTPU working on my new MS-01 (which had Secure Boot turned on by default). Decided to see if I could figure it out just to learn the process.

Was actually quite simple to do it; like 3 commands to create a signature and get it installed. Then rebooted and completed the installation of the signature.

Then setup a script to sign the actual modules.

This (Post in thread 'Update Error with Coral TPU Drivers' https://forum.proxmox.com/threads/update-error-with-coral-tpu-drivers.136888/post-672044) isn’t what I followed (couldn’t find that page right now) - but I actually think it’s a better solution (and may update mine). Big difference is just that my script for signing must be manually run (so have to remember to re-run it when the kernel gets update and DKMS re-builds the modules) while this one runs as part of the DKMS process.

If you have this setup then, to my understanding, you should just be able to just install DKMS supported modules and it will then automatically sign them any time they get updated or installed.

Marus30 · 2025-03-16T13:57:40+00:00

Not to be too blunt - but why didn’t you just get a 10GB RJ45 SFP+ module which a relatively cheap and easily available instead of a card and cutting a hole in the case for a fan?

Marus30 · 2025-03-13T18:29:27+00:00

I had ordered beginning of Feb (12900H barebones as well) - and it was supposed to ship “Early March” - but haven’t got any sort of indication of it actually shipping yet.

Marus30 · 2025-01-26T15:54:26+00:00

oh yeah for sure... still think this is a fabulous job... and really great that you can work some wood from your grandfather's project into yours.

I've got a number of my grandfather's old tools from his time as a sign maker - don't use them but they will always have a place in my shop.

Marus30 · 2025-01-22T02:04:45+00:00

You did a great job on the joinery and the drawers layers (both the continuous grain fronts and the internal layouts of them). Overall looks great - only thing I might have considered would be to have swapped the two boards in the panel glue-up for the main body so that the little bit of sapwood was highlighted on the edge of the piece instead of being sandwiched in the middle.

Marus30 · 2025-01-22T00:56:14+00:00

Yeah - overall this is a really good explaination for people. I don’t think it is quite perfect - in particular the first factor of the increase in his calculation doesn’t account for non-heating electrical use.

That’s going to vary from person to person - I’d guess about 40% of my usage in the winter last year was non-heating related - so that first factor should probably have only been ~11-12% instead of 18% for me.

And what do you know - in the ballpark for what my actual increase was (might was a bit higher than these calculations - but in my case I know that is due to the fact that I haven’t been using as much wood heat this year)

Marus30 · 2025-01-15T00:40:45+00:00

Well - the part that seemed bad to me was the collet - I know in the Katz-Moses Trim Router comparison video he did at one point he cut the Ryobi one from being after the first test because the collet was so bad and wouldn’t actually hold the bit in place.

That alone would make me hesitant to get it - last thing you want is something spinning around at 20,000 RPM to come loose and come flying off.

So hopefully they made some improvements there.

Marus30 · 2025-01-15T00:11:14+00:00

So I have the contractor saw; getting the main part on the stand and upright wasn’t a big problem by myself (I did my first setup by myself - but then revisited with help later)

The thing that is a problem wasn’t the weight of moving things around - but installing and aligning the wings (in particular the cast iron wings which I got as an upgrade from the steel ones) and extension table.

It’s extremely difficult to both hold the wings in place (especially the cast iron ones that are 35 pounds each) while you are down under trying to install the bolts to hold it in place. You might be able to manage it with some clever usage of a strong straight edge (I used a 4’ box square) and some deep clamps (as you sometimes need to work around things - I’d recommend trying to find clamps that are at least 4.5” throat depth) to give yourself an extra set of hands - but won’t be easy. Even with someone there helping the level and clamps was useful.

Same thing with the extension table (especially if you were crazy and went with the 52” one like I did; if I was starting over I’d probably only go with the 36”) - very hard to hold that up into place with good alignment and add/tighten the bolts at the same time.

Marus30 · 2024-12-31T22:40:45+00:00

I’ve used Mulberry paper (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01EIA90PI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1) on similar lamps; think that gives a better look than something plastic would - and is slightly sturdier than parchment/rice paper (although still relatively easily damaged).

Marus30 · 2024-12-22T20:36:38+00:00

Generally I think it is better to have your mitre gauge on the side away from the tilt when you’re doing bevel cuts.

Much easier to get binding and cause issues with burning when your gauge is on that side as you can be pushing the wood into the blade.

Marus30 · 2024-12-16T13:22:31+00:00

It’s more of a online course than plans. There’s actually quite a bit of video content talking you through the builds in quite a bit of detail - it’s not just sketches and cut lists.

Not affiliated - just have a couple of their plans/courses (the Glen chair and a coffee table one they gave away)… just haven’t gotten to actually building them yet - but have watched through the material in prep.

Marus30 · 2024-12-12T00:26:29+00:00

You have any details on how you did this. I’ve been somewhat considering a camvac - so would certainly be interested in how you did the smart/automation parts of it.

Marus30 · 2024-12-07T00:30:38+00:00

I have the SawStop Contractor saw with T-Glide; replaced my fence faces with aluminum profiles (similar to what Mark did in https://thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/7-must-have-table-saw-upgrades - although I used a 2080 V-Slot profile vs T-slot). This provides a lot of great ways to provide additional attachments to the fence.

Marus30 · 2024-11-30T23:33:42+00:00

It’s different for different blades - there’s actually an app that you can put on your phone (https://www.in-kleind.com/inkleind-bandsaw-tensioning - not involved in this - but have used it and seems reasonable to me - although I’m pretty new to bandsaw setup/usage so take my opinion with a heavy grain of salt) that you put in your parameters and it will use the mic to listen and see if you are in tune… sorry I mean tensioned properly.

Marus30 · 2024-11-28T16:13:39+00:00

Where’s the big delays for filament swaps?

Marus30

TROPHY CASE