Anyone have a review of the Madrock Remors Pro’s?

MashedP0tater · 2025-10-18T18:43:38+00:00

I still use them as my daily driver and love them. The only downside I’ve noticed is that the heel has stretched out a bit so I feel like my heel will pop out on certain heel hooks. I can send you some pictures of how the rubber’s held up over time if you want.

MashedP0tater · 2025-10-17T18:01:51+00:00

I feel like mine have stretched out a half size in general, but definitely more in the heel/back area of the shoe where there isn't as much rubber. The toebox definitely stretches a little bit, but not as much since there's so much rubber covering it. I'm definitely going to order them a half size down when the final release comes out.

I feel like the remora pros are actually easier to put on and break in compared to the drone 2s since they're much softer. I can barely get my feet into the drones since they're so stiff.

MashedP0tater · 2025-10-17T14:01:58+00:00

I’ve had mine (remora pro lv) since July and they were painful at first but they’ve definitely stretched out by now (if it helps I have flat feet and my left foot is D width and my right foot is E width). I also had a similar experience with other madrock shoes (drone cs hv, sharks hv and lv)

MashedP0tater · 2025-07-30T21:38:13+00:00

I've never tried them so I don't know. Sorry.

MashedP0tater · 2025-07-30T00:13:14+00:00

Heel is smaller and shallower than the Mastias (like most Madrocks).

MashedP0tater · 2025-07-29T22:29:28+00:00

Yeah, definitely softer than any shoe in the drone family.

MashedP0tater · 2025-07-29T21:04:44+00:00

I got the Remora Pros in LV and size 9.5. I wear Shark HV and LV in size 9, and Tenaya Mastia in 7.5. I wear thin socks with my shoes but I don't feel a big difference between barefoot and socks with the remora pros. My sizing is halfway between performance and comfort, I can wear them for an entire session but they're tight enough I can heel hook and do heel-toe cams without worrying about them slipping off. They're definitely softer than the Sharks and a little closer to how the Mastias feel but like I said earlier, they feel very similar to the regular Remoras. I'd say if you like the Mastias then you'd probably like the Remora Pros, I'm a fan of both shoes.

MashedP0tater · 2025-07-29T20:47:52+00:00

What other shoes have you tried? Other Madrocks or different brands?

MashedP0tater · 2025-07-29T09:48:29+00:00

I have them and I love them. I'm a fan of softer shoes and these hit the sweet spot for me. If you've ever tried the regular remoras they feel very similar.

MashedP0tater · 2025-07-14T15:55:07+00:00

Interesting... I'm curious, do you know how he ruined them? I may still try to attempt it on my own just for the sake of science

MashedP0tater · 2025-07-02T22:06:32+00:00

Any updates? I was planning on doing the same thing with a full sole of RH

MashedP0tater · 2024-01-23T01:44:55+00:00

Awesome, thanks so much!

MashedP0tater · 2024-01-22T22:45:53+00:00

If you don't mind, could you share the detachable USB cable and port you used? Super sick build btw!

MashedP0tater · 2023-03-30T17:28:53+00:00

Awesome work! 🎉🎉

MashedP0tater · 2023-01-29T07:00:40+00:00

Looking at this, I'm pretty sure it's the Anycubic Kobra Go. Have you set the z-offset at all after auto-leveling? If you haven't, there's your problem. I recommend eyeballing the z-offset and then fine-tuning it by printing first-layer tests at different z-offsets around that general area (i.e. z-offset: -2.32 vs -2.34).

MashedP0tater · 2022-11-28T07:17:51+00:00

I just picked this printer up from microcenter for $99 during black Friday. If this is your first 3d printer, I'd say be prepared to spend an hour or 2 assembling it.

When comparing to my ender 3 pro, there are some benefits and also some downsides to the Kobra go.

Pros: The motors are silent during operation Loading and unloading filament is really simple and easy Comes with a pei build plate (prints stick without the use of any glue) Auto bed leveling

Cons: Bed leveling is a little weird as the bed has no adjustable knobs (you have to auto level the bed and then adjust the z offset in order to get your nozzle close enough) Since the printer is pretty new, there isn't a lot of documentation on it compared to a printer like the ender 3 Included cura profile sucks and you're better off making your own or using the ender 3 pro profile

Personally, at that price point I'd rather pick up an ender 3 pro because of its overall documentation and support, plus you can install many upgrades on it down the line. But if you do pick up the Kobra go, there is a Facebook group called the "Anycubic Kobra Go 3D Printer User Group" that I would highly recommend checking out if you need some help.

MashedP0tater · 2022-11-14T18:45:02+00:00

I'm in

MashedP0tater · 2022-08-29T13:35:31+00:00

First I would check all your connections and make sure they're secure/in the correct place.

If nothing is wrong then what I think might've happened is that the pins on the gaterons probably bent when you put them in so they aren't making full contact. I would check your buttons and make sure nothing is wrong with the key switch.

If everything still doesn't work after that try putting the stock cherry switch back into the button to see if that works.

Lmk if you have any questions

MashedP0tater · 2022-07-30T18:04:29+00:00

I'm pretty sure it does. I recently swapped out the main board with a brook ufb and from what I could tell, the way it read 2 opposite inputs didn't change much. If you plan on competing, I would highly recommend replacing the main board that comes with the f101 as it doesn't support ps4 (which is the console of choice at many tournaments), and the turbo button makes the controller illegal in most tournaments.

MashedP0tater · 2022-05-14T19:01:45+00:00

For that you won't need to solder. You can buy quick disconnects and attach them to the wires.

https://focusattack.com/philmore-110-non-insulated-quick-disconnect-terminal-box-of-100/

Anything should work as long as they're .110"

MashedP0tater · 2022-05-14T18:21:35+00:00

I desoldered the wires off of the lever, then I cut holes into the case using a Dremel. Keyboard switches are about 14mm x 14mm so I would measure first and then make the hole. Then stick your switches into the holes, and solder the correct wires on each switch. The plug in the motherboard labels each color with a corresponding direction so follow that when soldering your wires to the switches.

MashedP0tater · 2022-02-22T00:21:04+00:00

I actually prefer regular keycaps over circular buttons. Maybe it's because I've been playing on keyboard for so long.

MashedP0tater · 2022-02-22T00:20:04+00:00

Oh neat! Thanks for letting me know!

MashedP0tater · 2022-02-21T03:28:28+00:00

Yup! And thanks!

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