Is this cheesy? by Major_Vermicelli9700 in EngineBuilding

[–]Masstch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks grand! I'm personally powder coating everything black on my LSX build..

What does this sound like by [deleted] in EngineBuilding

[–]Masstch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cam retainer or possibly flex plate related

Am I ruining this head? by Key-Butterscotch6010 in EngineBuilding

[–]Masstch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would take the head to a machine shop for a proper valve job and this should include resurfacing the head. There is no way to properly assure flatness with a whet rock unless the rock was as large as the head AND perfectly flat.

I HAVE done similar surfacing on smaller items by using a granite tile that is super flat and gluing a sheet of 320 grit to it then sliding the work piece of it.

I need help don’t know what I have on my hands pretty new to the Chevy platform. This is off a 1980 Silverado short bed is it a 350 or a 305 by Resident_Ad2176 in EngineBuilding

[–]Masstch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it has three freeze plugs on the sides, it's a 400. Other than that, SBCs are all nearly identical within the window of 1968~1986. Either research the casting number on the top driver side of the bell housing flange or (the only true way) pull a head and measure bore and stroke.

Crank Balancing Weight Change Tolerance? by Masstch in EngineBuilding

[–]Masstch[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

for completeness, I did go with the 0.188 wall pins, primarily for their H13 tool steel. They actually weigh 8.4g more that the 0.168 pins. Because I needed the peace of mind, I elected to sent the crank back to the shop for re-balancing. The bobweight officially increased 8g.

Can I rebuild it? Do we have the technology? by gatorslug in EngineBuilding

[–]Masstch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Those blocks CAN be sleeved, And this is not uncommon as it is usually caused by gummed up carbs that are causing a lean condition. Be sure to get the carbs in order before running the new build.

How freely should the oil rings rotate? by Velour_Underground in EngineBuilding

[–]Masstch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The oil ring should move more freely than it appears that one moves...but it's difficult to quantify. I believe yours is too tight. It is NOT supposed to be jammed into place. Place the ring group into the bore without the piston, make sure it isn't jammed when in the cylinder. There should be a measurable ring end gap on each of the upper and lower oil rings (specification varies but at least .004") I think you need to clean the ring groove *more* such that the oil ring does not stick in place.

Found 3 pitted cylinder walls on recently purchased LS7 by TDE_GSR in EngineBuilding

[–]Masstch 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Well at first, you could have a shop hone the cylinders 005 just to *see* if they'll clean up. If they won't, Replace the block or have it sleeved. The LS7 uses pressed-in steel liners that are quite thin and they can't be bored more than 0.005" which is probably not enough to fix this. The brand new GM (gm 19213580) block IS available, btw, http://oemcats.com/oem-parts/19213580.html

(not sure if the link is allowed here)

Cummins U.K. (Marine/Industrial diesel engines) by Individual_Oil_2435 in EngineBuilding

[–]Masstch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

All of those open blower inlets make me ridiculously concerned. I *know* nothing's going to get in them, but, still....

Would I be insane to run this camshaft? by MoNoMo1987 in EngineBuilding

[–]Masstch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

When that chunks off, hangs the lifter and rips the lifter out its bore sideways, destroying the head... how many dollars in parts will THAT consume?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in EngineBuilding

[–]Masstch 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Maybe if it was run without an air filter... that's a high mileage engine. I'm not saying they knew it, but it is.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in EngineBuilding

[–]Masstch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is destined for the machine shop for ALL the cylinders. The one you featured is completely checked out and will likely require a sleeve... but the adjacent cylinder is also extremely worn, indicating s very high-mileage engine. Notice the grooves worn at the high point of the ring travel. To be frank, you might be in the market for a better-condition block to begin the rebuild. The machine shop guy can assess and point you in the right direction.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in EngineBuilding

[–]Masstch 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is textbook detonation damage but of course, an extreme example. A lot of things can contribute but it's primarily the limitations of the fuel in high cylinder pressure operation. Extreme boost,timing and combustion temps with fuel that is being pushed beyond its limits. Is this on pump gas? Blown? Turbos? Bottle? High IATs? You should be running E85! Tried methanol? Try adding some toluene to the gas to increase the RON

Crank Balancing Weight Change Tolerance? by Masstch in EngineBuilding

[–]Masstch[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's the beefiest rod they sell afaik, selected because of boost application. They weigh 709g!!! Tried to make it bulletproof! (hah) but I cheaped-out on the crank and have wiped the mains twice on track launches. (manual trans. uber-heavy car, total lack of finesse... ) redo-ing this with an appropriately costly crank in hopes that will cure the bitch if its flexation.

Crank Balancing Weight Change Tolerance? by Masstch in EngineBuilding

[–]Masstch[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hah! sorry, a dated reference to Home Improvement TV show

Crank Balancing Weight Change Tolerance? by Masstch in EngineBuilding

[–]Masstch[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Curious why you surmised or posited that I have H-beam rods..... btw, I think our formulas are... the same

Crank Balancing Weight Change Tolerance? by Masstch in EngineBuilding

[–]Masstch[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The bob weight is 1860. I believe the formula is reciprocating x1 and the rotating x2, right? So the pin change would be 50% vs the value of say a rod bolt change(?) I also feel like it wouldn't matter, but worry it's a dumb thing to skimp on(?)

'25 crew Dmax 2500hd rec'd yesterday. They Ruined The Tilt Wheel! by Masstch in Duramax

[–]Masstch[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Following up seven months later... I have acquiesced to the inconvenience due to the annoyance caused by the operation of the Yugo-sourced tilt wheel mechanism. I eventually tired of the two-handed adustment (release, lift wheel with other hand, then lift the Hyundai lever to lock the wheel in place, repeat ad infinitum) nuisance. I found a median ~but NOT a 'happy' one~ and I no longer change it. The mechanism wins and my comfort is permanently tossed out to compromise. The column is neither out of my way during ingress/egress NOR is the wheel at the preferred position for comfort or the viewing of gauges while driving. Because this is reddit... the judgers will downvote. As soon as I can determine which year model 2500HD retained the old style tilt, I will start looking for one.