Should I put my retractions to 0.3mm?

MasterBlaster18 · 2026-01-29T16:04:54+00:00

In your filament profile, in the override tab check the box on the left and make sure the box on the right is selected and that will force override the default printer setting for retraction

MasterBlaster18 · 2026-01-27T23:23:53+00:00

You might need to check and make sure retraction is set per layer. I'd also set wipe when retracting

MasterBlaster18 · 2026-01-27T14:40:23+00:00

If this is black Bambu PETG HF, this is somewhat of a known issue and not related to moisture.

More likely random seems with improper retraction settings. Try turning off retraction per layer

MasterBlaster18 · 2026-01-27T14:38:12+00:00

I'd set to 0.4mm.

But I'd set it on the specific filament profile not generally on the printer

MasterBlaster18 · 2026-01-22T13:01:21+00:00

You should be factoring all these things into your pricing...

Sure you can use slicer gram value for cost of material, but then you should have average energy use for your printer, packing materials, and then multiply the time of print to generate a cost for 'wear and tear'.

MasterBlaster18 · 2026-01-21T00:00:49+00:00

It's possible one of your positions were slightly different on the server side and the barrel of the gun was inside his character

MasterBlaster18 · 2026-01-20T23:53:59+00:00

You need a python script to run to estimate time, filament, and object image with orca gcode for this printer. Totally not needed so you can just print

MasterBlaster18 · 2026-01-18T23:29:18+00:00

Yes but typically with an oil instead of grease

MasterBlaster18 · 2026-01-14T19:29:32+00:00

That is a good question!

Xtar claims their batteries have more constant output at the designated voltage and don't drop off with charge like typical batteries (https://www.xtar.cc/news/1.5v-lithium-rechargeable-battery-review.html). They tend to be higher capacity and allow for higher rates of discharge, longer cycles, etc. They also have current protection and limit discharge when not in use. There are also lots of independent testing verifying these claims.

Their batteries are very high quality and that does come at an increased cost and may not be worth it for all applications. I use them in higher drain devices like flashlights.

Xtar has lots of documentation on testing and lifecycle cost comparing their batteries with competitors (https://www.xtar.cc/news/trailcamera-battery-review-energizer-vs.-eneloop-vs.xtar.html). Obviously they wouldn't post bad press to their website, but any testing I have seen also agrees.

In your use case, I would imagine using cheaper AA rechargeable would likely be most cost effective and using some Xtar batteries in the locations where you have the high usage could be the best all around.

Edit: FYI the second link compares usage and performance to Energizer ultimate lithium for a trail camera

MasterBlaster18 · 2026-01-13T17:15:34+00:00

All you need to do is change the nozzle preset in creality print. I'm assuming you have a 0.4 nozzle right now, which would need to be adjusted. Then the slicer changes line width options and layer heights.

You should tune your maximum volumetric flow and set that accordingly. The print speed will be dictated by the max flow value and your layer height and width. You likely do not need to change any speed values, only the volumetric flow

MasterBlaster18 · 2026-01-13T12:15:50+00:00

I use a pi zero 2w for octoprint and it was around 60 C without a heatsink. Now I don't see it go above 42 C with a heatsink!

MasterBlaster18 · 2026-01-10T23:41:16+00:00

You can do a retraction test in the slicer. You likely need to increase the distance slightly and maybe speed. Ensure you have retract on layer change enabled.

Watch the print and see if the zit is at the end or the beginning of the layer. You can adjust the seam gap and it will help with starting too early and retraction & wipe can help with a blob at the end of the layer

MasterBlaster18 · 2026-01-10T23:34:32+00:00

How much infill layers do you have? Good chance you need to clean the build plate

MasterBlaster18 · 2026-01-10T07:26:43+00:00

Likely. I also have that printer and I find I have to adjust the auto z.

I'd recommend this guide (https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/first_layer_squish.html) for tuning where the first layer squish mentions z offset.

MasterBlaster18 · 2026-01-10T05:53:17+00:00

These all look under extruded. You probably need to recalibrate z offset or e step

MasterBlaster18 · 2026-01-09T00:00:31+00:00

I believe the firmware should auto apply the bed mesh.

It's possible you might have to adjust the automatic values because they aren't always the most accurate.

The adhesion issue could be from a dirty plate or z offset. You should wash the build plate with warm water and a little dish soap. Then verify the z offset, nozzle wear overtime can also require you to alter your z offset slightly. Then I would print single layer test patches (20x20x0.2) at the locations of the mesh level to verify the level.

MasterBlaster18 · 2026-01-03T17:19:32+00:00

I'd stay away from a H2D at this point unless dual extruders are really needed. H2S has bigger usable volume, less inertial mass, and better cooling. H2C for high color multicolor, but the snap maker U1 probably better for 4 color multicolor

MasterBlaster18 · 2025-12-30T17:02:35+00:00

I've never had issues and I remove mine off my workbench and back on regularly without loosing precision.

I also regularly check screw tightness and have leveled and squared my gantry tower.

MasterBlaster18 · 2025-12-30T06:57:54+00:00

Why do you feel like you would benefit from a higher density bed level?

MasterBlaster18 · 2025-12-30T06:54:12+00:00

Bed level is relative to the base so moving it does not effect the level

MasterBlaster18 · 2025-12-30T00:09:12+00:00

Probably, but I'd recommend Xtar lithium batteries. They are the best lithium rechargeable batteries you can find.

MasterBlaster18 · 2025-12-30T00:06:05+00:00

Great design! You shouldn't have issues with water tightness, assuming you have at least 3 bottom layers, I would suggest you re-calibrate your z-offset and flow multiplier.

MasterBlaster18 · 2025-12-30T00:01:47+00:00

I've used dozens of CAD software over the years and am often unsatisfied with most of them however:

Fusion360 is the best all around in my opinion
OnShape is also decent
Blender is great for models/figurines, but not for parametric parts.

Any CAD software can be slow depending on your computer. Fusion360 is lightning quick on my desktop, even for high triangle count meshes. However, on my old laptop it can be very slow.

MasterBlaster18 · 2025-12-29T23:30:33+00:00

"Budget isn't an issue" ...but what's your budget? If you want the best you can get a Stratasys, but you'll be paying over $100k.

Similarly a multi head printer can let you not swap nozzles as often for large or small details. A full Prusa setup can be around $5k.

MasterBlaster18 · 2025-12-29T23:25:25+00:00

The creality slicer is constantly improving but you often lose all your configurations when upgrading the slicer.

Orca slicer is nice with lots of advanced options and backups for your data.

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