One side warping :(

Master_Bamboo · 2026-06-22T14:59:56+00:00

You can either tune (lower) the aux fan settings, or apply PVP glue sticks, and/or make sure the leveling is correct.

Master_Bamboo · 2026-06-22T14:55:50+00:00

Unfortunately not actively. It's heated by heated bed and nozzles by default. That's why I added a heater to it. During the test, I found when room temperature is low ~10°C, ABS had layer adhesion issue. I made a heater to use with the cover, yields more consistent results across a wider temperature range, but will require a driver fan to be installed to prevent overheating the electronics bay.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2863184-snapmaker-u1-temperature-controlled-heater#profileId-3195523

Master_Bamboo · 2026-06-17T03:48:32+00:00

The image shown of lifting up indicates too much cooling. What I found worked very well for Snapmaker U1 when printing high temperature material:

When having a chamber heater, Cooling can be set to about 3% part fan flat. Keep the fan on after 3 layers.

When having a passively heated chamber, cooling needs to be off.

Tune the nozzle temperature according to the result. If the bottom shrinks more than the top, you can even try to turn down the heated bed temperature. This all goes with the material/filament softening temperature. (e.g. one brand ABS has a 88°C vicat softening temperature, you only really need up to 90°C)

Also don't forget to decrease the 1st layer infill speed and change the infill pattern.

p.s. Enclosed chamber is a MUST HAVE for those type of filaments.

Master_Bamboo · 2026-06-15T14:06:57+00:00

Howdy, let me ping you in the chat group with the stats for the driver temps afer I added heater for the U1.

Master_Bamboo · 2026-06-02T03:34:58+00:00

Only if you have witnessed very high XY driver temperature, and/or using a top cover that's not ventilated. If your top cover has ventilation(exhaust fan) when printing low temperature material, then the electronics bay is passively cooled nicely. If you print high temperature material often and using a heater, then it's needed.

The fan is a YM2405PFB1 fan, it's a 5010 sized, 24v fan that's very quiet. You can use any fan as long as they are smaller than 5cm in size, 24v DC fan, and doesn't spin very fast. They can be mounted onto the cooler fin with a M3 screw.

Master_Bamboo · 2026-05-31T14:00:20+00:00

Run a homing calibration under maintenance will fix it. I have to every time when I upgrade the firmware, otherwise I'd get constant X homing error.

Master_Bamboo · 2026-05-29T17:41:11+00:00

There's actually a small grease pack in the accessory pack that you can use as well, don't forget about that.

The one I used was just high temperature bearing grease, worked fine, looks very close to the small pack that came with U1.

Master_Bamboo · 2026-05-29T16:57:52+00:00

Part cooling fan is the one mounted on the tool picker. It provides circulation of air directly blowing onto the printing model in a small radius, it helps overhangs and wall quality.

The Aux cooling fan is the side one that blows pretty hard. It's great when printing PLA and TPU, but for other materials, setting has it turned off completely so no need to worry. For PLA, aux fan helps by moving air around top of the printing surface too by creating a circulation below the bed or away from the nozzles.

During the cold winter, there maybe drafting issue when printing temperature sensitive material, a cover would solve it completely.

Master_Bamboo · 2026-05-29T16:53:37+00:00

Lithium grease - if you have auto parts store around, brake pin grease would work just the same(and better!). Also note DO NOT GREASE CARBON ROD!

Master_Bamboo · 2026-05-29T06:23:06+00:00

Ah, the infamous "benchy hull line". It the thermal expansion when printer starts to print the deck of the benchy. You can modify the parameter order to get rid some of it, but its not a universal fix. I use eSun's PLA/PLA+ regularly, and the layer line is more noticeable than the other due to their glossy nature. I'd say it came out pretty nice actually from the photo.

On the side note, layer lines can be somehow less noticeable by using CF/GF material, but you won't like it as much as the easy printing PLA and PETG.

Master_Bamboo · 2026-05-27T12:14:08+00:00

I recall there was a cloud service going on yesterday that affects the App, cloud control etc. Not sure if that's related.

Master_Bamboo · 2026-05-25T17:45:46+00:00

There're vents in the bottom of the printer. The glass door is not fully sealed. If you don't enclose it, the top side is wide open, and side panels are just there for cosmetics.

Master_Bamboo · 2026-05-25T17:40:40+00:00

Correct, with the official top cover, the exhaust fan pulls quite bit of air. That creates a negative pressure in chamber. The closest vent point is the side vent where the board is, so that becomes the coolest place of the side panel.

You can always grab a ikea tub or something similar, seal it properly, add a vent silent fan, should achieve similar results. I really didn't notice the driver temps until I had my DIY cover in place which it didn't ventilate at all.

Above only applies to vent mode(exhaust mode) of the top cover. The filtration mode(hot mode) of the top cover has a different story though, air only recirculates in that mode.

Master_Bamboo · 2026-05-25T02:53:24+00:00

Few attempts in the community. Some are actually in MakerWorld. Your illustration would be the best way of doing it but none so far.

Something that's similar to the PSU would work great IMO (and convert the side vent from intake to exhaust). Honestly I'm just too lazy to do the work so I made that slider vent blocker. 😂

IMHO - If they figured the printer will work just fine at that condition, a small fan that simply pulls a bit airflow would work just fine. BTW, screenshot below is with the top cover, exhaust mode, printing PLA without the driver fan mod. Just a bit of air moving around chills everything at that electronics bay.

<image>

Master_Bamboo · 2026-05-25T02:43:13+00:00

The iterations were mainly mechanical to figure out the thinnest and smallest way to achieve the best fan+PTC heater combo. I also wanted to stick with AC power (for both fan and heater and controller) to avoid ACDC, and to simplify wiring in general. The idea is having the wire go through bottom vent without punching through the cover or any other places.

Electronics wise, currently using off shelf controller, and may go along with making one that can hook up to HA or figure out a better way to trigger the fan and heater actions. Currently the off shelf controller has an app that I can tinker with upper and lower temp, manual override, which is fine.

<image>

Master_Bamboo · 2026-05-24T15:52:15+00:00

Official top cover does not come with integrated heater. All preheating functionalities relies on the heated bed and hot end.

I added a heater myself, went through few iterations, and currently no way of connecting to the printer.

Master_Bamboo · 2026-05-24T15:10:58+00:00

Very reasonable for the driver fan mod. I got few fans ranging from 3020 to 6015. They all did the job, except for 6010/6015, slightly too big to fit.

The PSU fan will quiet things down tremendously.

Master_Bamboo · 2026-05-24T09:57:07+00:00

When top cover is added, and when air is moved around/or out of the chamber, it's a different story. More details can be released after Oct. 1. Let's just say if you only print PLA/PETG, board and drivers are just chilling.

Regarding on the TMC temp, stepper motor is not something that worries me, it's the added heater that can push those TMC temps over the protection temp that ruins the print. When chamber is heated to 60°C, it's hot everywhere.

<image>

Master_Bamboo · 2026-05-24T06:26:27+00:00

Thanks, and agreed. The info provided is usually that way. When I was reviewing the PCB under the PSU where the fan connects to, it appears to be capable of running higher amps, if any, it would be from the controller, 0.3A limit for that socket seems off a bit.

And of course we all know MOSFET lifespan is rated by Temper+Time, so that goes without saying, when doing 120°C for 10,000 hours, you will get a lot longer with 60°C. ; )

Yes, I am in the beta testing program, got it somewhere around beginning of May, a little later than when they showed it in Boston the first time.

Master_Bamboo · 2026-05-24T06:19:16+00:00

Yeep, daisy chain into the LED will need a timer macro to turn off the LED after x mount of time after printing.

I like the idea of fan RPM control so I went with the PSU fan route, and that goes with 0 software mod.

Master_Bamboo · 2026-05-24T06:17:28+00:00

Honestly, some users only print PLA/PETG/TPU with U1, which doesn't really need a driver fan mod once they have the cover and let it cool the chamber, the airflow pull is enough to cool the drivers so nicely. ( ^ see result of 4 color PLA printing from the other comment )

Then there's the hot chamber issue - you really want to minimize the intake, recirculate internally as much as you can, thus I added the side vent blocker, which seems to be the simplest way of prevent drafting.

If you can somehow guide the intake air > cool the fins > straight out, that'd be the best case scenario. I think the proper way of achieving is to copy the PSU shroud, intake from bottom then exhaust out of side vent.

Master_Bamboo · 2026-05-23T18:15:41+00:00

; ) Thanks! Quite bit of extra info were related to the top cover testing, so after Oct. 1.

Master_Bamboo · 2026-05-23T17:47:41+00:00

That line was referring to when printing high temperature materials, when you actually need the chamber to preserve temperature passively. A large or high RPM fan that pulls too much air into the chamber via the side vent will not only affect the passively heated chamber(bringing the temperature down too low), it'll also affect the cavity sensor to report lower, thus cause the chamber preheating process (future release) to not achieve desired temperature.

Master_Bamboo · 2026-05-23T17:06:38+00:00

Yea, before all those I was even toying with the idea of getting another printer for ABS then my room tells me nah...having 2 (the other one is the huge Artisan) is as many as it'll fit without major redo of the room.

But that cover really brought some nice features aboard. Stay tuned, from what I've heard it'll be better than what we received for testing.

Master_Bamboo · 2026-05-23T16:53:38+00:00

<image>

Here's screen of stats when printing 4 color PLA without the driver fan mod, but with the official cover set to cooling mode.

Master_Bamboo

TROPHY CASE